Hello, and Check Engine Question?
carcass
10-04-2004, 10:27 PM
Hi, I'm new to this forum, looks like a great store of information. Maybe someone here can help me out...
I have a '97 Integra GSR with about 110,000 miles on it. A few days ago the engine started missing randomly and the check engine light came on. Gas mileage was rotten lately too. After asking a few friends and co-workers (and books), I decided to replace the distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs (those are all supposed to be replaced at 90,000 miles per Honda anyway, so I figured that if that fixed the problem, great.
Anyway, I finally got the cap and rotor today. When I opened up the cap, I just about choked. The screw that holds the rotor on the shaft had worked its way loose and was rattling around in the distributor. Not only that, but as it had worked its way loose, it had gouged heck out of the plastic shield that separates the wiring from the rotor. The rotor and points were heavily eroded. I figured, for sure, this had to be the problem, and good thing I caught it! After inspecting all the internal parts of the distributor I decided to clean up the gouges on the shield and proceed with the installation.
So I get the rotor and cap installed, install the new wires and plugs, etc. I restart the engine, check engine light is still on. I figure that it just has to be reset, so I'll take a drive and see how it's all running. The engine now has way more power than I've experienced in a long time, and I'm expecting the gas mielage to come back into line with my experience (30-33 mpg).
So I go to reset the check engine light, pull the ECU backup fuse, wait a minute, put the fuse back in, and restart the car. No Check Engine light for about 15 seconds, then it's back on. Grr.
Engine seems to run fine now...can anyone suggest to me what else may be wrong...what damage may have been caused down the line by the messed up rotor?
Thanks in advance for any help, sorry for the very long story.
I have a '97 Integra GSR with about 110,000 miles on it. A few days ago the engine started missing randomly and the check engine light came on. Gas mileage was rotten lately too. After asking a few friends and co-workers (and books), I decided to replace the distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs (those are all supposed to be replaced at 90,000 miles per Honda anyway, so I figured that if that fixed the problem, great.
Anyway, I finally got the cap and rotor today. When I opened up the cap, I just about choked. The screw that holds the rotor on the shaft had worked its way loose and was rattling around in the distributor. Not only that, but as it had worked its way loose, it had gouged heck out of the plastic shield that separates the wiring from the rotor. The rotor and points were heavily eroded. I figured, for sure, this had to be the problem, and good thing I caught it! After inspecting all the internal parts of the distributor I decided to clean up the gouges on the shield and proceed with the installation.
So I get the rotor and cap installed, install the new wires and plugs, etc. I restart the engine, check engine light is still on. I figure that it just has to be reset, so I'll take a drive and see how it's all running. The engine now has way more power than I've experienced in a long time, and I'm expecting the gas mielage to come back into line with my experience (30-33 mpg).
So I go to reset the check engine light, pull the ECU backup fuse, wait a minute, put the fuse back in, and restart the car. No Check Engine light for about 15 seconds, then it's back on. Grr.
Engine seems to run fine now...can anyone suggest to me what else may be wrong...what damage may have been caused down the line by the messed up rotor?
Thanks in advance for any help, sorry for the very long story.
integralover
10-05-2004, 03:28 AM
i'd really just disconnect the battery for about 2 minutes. but i had noticed that when i did something drastic to the engine the check light would come on. but after driving across town and shutting the engine off and coming back it would go away. but if that does nto work you should go ahead and pull the code.
carcass
10-05-2004, 09:48 AM
Thanks for the reply!
I did pull the neg. battery cable, but only for about 1 minute...same effect as pulling the ECM backup fuse.
I've browsed around the forums here, and have found a few codes, but is there a place with a comprehensive list of codes for my car?
Or is this link (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t19102.html) all I need? It seems to be ambiguous on what terminals to short out and how to read the blink codes, as well as not having all the codes?
Thanks again!
I did pull the neg. battery cable, but only for about 1 minute...same effect as pulling the ECM backup fuse.
I've browsed around the forums here, and have found a few codes, but is there a place with a comprehensive list of codes for my car?
Or is this link (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t19102.html) all I need? It seems to be ambiguous on what terminals to short out and how to read the blink codes, as well as not having all the codes?
Thanks again!
carcass
10-05-2004, 07:39 PM
OK, so I got the ECU to spit up a code...drumroll please....
it's code 9 -- Cylinder #1 position. So what's that mean?
I am still having a very slight random miss occurring...
Thanks in advance; I'll keep looking here and elsewhere.
it's code 9 -- Cylinder #1 position. So what's that mean?
I am still having a very slight random miss occurring...
Thanks in advance; I'll keep looking here and elsewhere.
carcass
10-05-2004, 07:45 PM
In the interest of providing as much info as I can, I found this (http://www.troublecodes.net/acura/96-02int.shtml) elsewhere. The relevant part is...
P1381 9 CYP Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1382 9 CYP Sensor No Signal
Can anyone point me to where the cylinder position sensor is located?
Thanks!
P1381 9 CYP Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1382 9 CYP Sensor No Signal
Can anyone point me to where the cylinder position sensor is located?
Thanks!
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