Obd1.5

is there any way to convert the 1.5 OBD computer to a OBD2, such as switching it out. what would have to be done? 95 4.3liter V6 CPI. doing for performance reasons. would putting a performance chip in allow me to change setting or not?

Don't start doing that crap bro.

Our computers are technically OBDII but just a more primitive version installed initially when they were doing the switchover.

Those chips don't do anything for the performance anyways.

Do the usual intake/muffler/under-drive pulleys etc.. before you start frigging around with the computer.

i'm working on the intake now and the exhaust is done.as well as the EGR mod. what do you mean by under-drive pulleys? never heard of it. i was also thinking of the fan conversion and a 180 thermostat, and installing 1.6 ratio roller rockers from comp cam and a MSD ignition. sound good?

Ok, first off, you really need to come down to reality bro.

1.) Take that stupid EGR mod off. Does nothing but cause detonation You will get more horsepower from a properly work EGR system. If you riase combustion temperature, you will get spark knock and your knock sensors will retard the timing and therfore net you LESS horsepower.

2.) Google for underdrive pulleys and learn about them. www.google.com

3.) Fan Conversion is not worth it. The pully fan is only on when you are at idle and the clutch disengages when you accelerate.

4.) 180 Thermostat - Good Mod :) Don't go any colder, 180 is the lowest you want to go.

5.) Roller rockers are not needed on our truck. We already have roller tipped lifters.

6.) Comp Cam - Can be worth while if you want to do all the work needed for it.

7.) MSD Ignition - Not needed for a stock and non-turbo or supercharged motor. Stock ignition can supply enough voltage for a 454 and is essentially overpowering the 4.3L.

Put the money into some nice wheels and tires for your truck.

k thanks for the info. how much of a diff would the under drive pullys make? where can i find a set and whats the price? the roller rockers i was talking about would come from comp cam. would it make any diff or not? i might add a cam later down the line but not now. wheels and tires will come later after the trucks paid off.

Put the money into paying the truck off.

I would rather have a paid off stock truck than a modded trucks with 3000 still owing.

yea i know but i'm asking for some stuff for christmas.i'd still like to know about the diff would the under drive pullys would make and about the roller rockers.

is there any way to convert the 1.5 OBD computer to a OBD2, such as switching it out. what would have to be done? 95 4.3liter V6 CPI. doing for performance reasons. would putting a performance chip in allow me to change setting or not?

to answer your question,

yes it can be "converted" to OBD2, however you will have to make a trip to the dealership and have the computer flashed. it wont gain you anything other than full OBD2 compliance AFAIK.

as for a performance chip, JET makes a module that plugs in to the computer.

would i be able to mod the computer as if it was a OBD2 computer? ball park price?

The JET chip is worthless on our engines.

It just kills your economy and throws in more fuel for power.

Waste of money.

Jesus man.

i understand about the chip but cobra1 was talking about reflashing the computer to OBD2. that was what i was talking about. i'm not going to put a chip in.

You have to understand, we have a OBDII already.

There is no such thing as OBD1.5.

Our version of OBDII is just a little simpler than the 1996.

then how come when i hook up a programmer i can't play with the computer like a OBD2 computer. could i reflash it to a newer version of OBD2?

We have a VCM-A which is different than the full OBDII.

can you explain it any better. can it be switched to a newer version or not?

NO!

Buy a 1996 Blazer or leave it alone.

k. i'll stick with the 95. woulld the roller rockers from comp cam make any diff or are the stock ones fine? know of any where to get the under drive pulleys?

NO!

Buy a 1996 Blazer or leave it alone.

????

it most certainly can be upgraded to full OBD2 compliance, certainly no performance benefit, but it can be done none the less.

The JET chip is worthless on our engines.

It just kills your economy and throws in more fuel for power.

Waste of money.

Jesus man.

ummm.... just how bad is the gas economy with one of these? like what MPG are we looking at on a 2wd S-10 for instance?

anybody know about roller rockers or under drive pulleys?
where can i fnd a set of under drive pulleys? price? another thing is if i were to add another fan infront of the stock on both forceing air the same way, and i was to turn it on a little before i raced to help get the engine colder. would this help any. this would be after the 180 thermostat is put in.

anybody know about roller rockers or under drive pulleys?
where can i fnd a set of under drive pulleys? price? another thing is if i were to add another fan infront of the stock on both forceing air the same way, and i was to turn it on a little before i raced to help get the engine colder. would this help any. this would be after the 180 thermostat is put in.

Don't worry about roller rockers, not needed on the 1995.

Did you search for under drive pulleys yet on the net? www.google.com

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=MRG-4757+&x=14&y=16

Don't add another fan in front of the radiator, you will just make the cooling worse. Nothing wrong with the stock system so don't mess with it.

????

it most certainly can be upgraded to full OBD2 compliance, certainly no performance benefit, but it can be done none the less.

I SAID it was already OBDII, just a simpler version with less sensors and parameters. Flashing it to 1996 would maen he would have to insert a MAF into the system, install two more O2 sensors and various difference the 1996 had to the 1995.

I don't know why you are arguing with me.

adding the sensors is fine. but could it be done with added sensors? or would i need a new wireing harness?

I swear ta god man, I feel I am talking to a brick wall.

GET OFF THE COMPUTER CHANGE THOUGHT PROCESS!!!

I swear ta god man, I feel I am talking to a brick wall.

GET OFF THE COMPUTER CHANGE THOUGHT PROCESS!!!

I am going to have to agree here with BlazerLT. Stock, from the factory, these trucks and engines are built pretty solid. There is no reason to go swapping things out like crazy because you *want* to, only if you need to. However, there are a few minor things one can do in an afternoon that will drastically improve fuel economy and overall performance on these trucks.

1) Cat-Back exhaust replacement. Use all 2.25" pipes if you can. Nothing of note is gained at all from converting to dual exhaust. It looks cool, but actually does very little. Just open up the exhaust with a good set of pipes and a muffler from Borla, Gibson, FlowMaster or even a FloPro.

2) After the above is done, one can easily mod their existing intake for cold air induction with the stock airbox already present in the truck. I did this with a Dremel tool and an hour's worth of work from start to finish. Adding in a drop-in K&N Filter Charger really opens up the intake, but is almost useless unless you have the exhaust to match first.

3) Chipping, modding, or swapping the driveline computer is utterly pointless. All that chips do is dump more fuel into the engine, making the catalyst run hotter and existing O2 sensors foul up quickly. Converting to OBD-II on a pre-'96 truck just buys you headaches. If it ain't broke, don't tamper. Period.

4) Under-drive pulleys can free up an additional 4 horses for every pound of weight you take off of the main pulley/crank. In addition to a main crank pulley, you can get pulleys for your A/C, Alternator and power steering pump. Done right, altogether this unleashes up to about 20 horses on our '95 CPIs.

5) The stock radiator/cooling configuration on our trucks is awesome enough. It will even handle towing up to maximum capacities without a headache. Dropping in the 180 degree thermostat is a keen idea, as it drops the other operating temps from the oil cooler and tranny cooler just enough to make a real difference. The *only* modification I have seen that makes sense is a 3 to 5 pass auxilary oil cooler for the tranny affixed to the front of the radiator. Adding electric cooling is a nightmare. These trucks already run at the limit of thier alternator output. Tampering with the power systems in this trucks leads to bad, BAD tranny trouble later and random glitches almost everywhere else.

6) Roller cams on a '95 Vortec 6 is pointless. We already have them.

7) Platinum plugs other than AC/Delco Rapidfire are pointless too. Oddly, stock and OEM performance parts work best.

I have personally spent 2 weeks going from front to back on my '95 Blazer. I bought it used with 133k on the clock. Nothing will give you *immediate* power gains like a complete tune-up. (Plugs, wires, rotor, cap, O2 sensors, Air and Fuel filters, oil change and filter with a good, 10w30 or straight 30w weight oil poured in) I have modded the exhaust and intake as stated above, and I *cannot* keep the truck from spinning it's wheels when pressing the gas down harder than 1/2 way!

Altogether, these mods and regular tune-up maintainence has maintained a whopping 16 to 19 MPG in the city and about 25 on the highway, and the engine still runs strong and hard all the way. Not much one can do short of dropping in a v-8 motor that will give you what you seem to want - especially for racing. Better save up the dough too - gotta swap tranny, driveline parts, etc. to get the v-8 racing mods done and to maintain the truck. Neve race unless you have the budget to support it. Anyway... I talked enough. Time to give someone else a turn.

Whoa, nice post bro.

I take it you have a 2x4 95 Blazer because I can't light up my truck tires.

Whoa, nice post bro.

I take it you have a 2x4 95 Blazer because I can't light up my truck tires.

I have a '95 Blazer 4x4 w/manual floor shift on the transfer case.. In 2-hi it will smoke a pair of rear wheels to shreds in an afternoon if not careful. Most of the time, I drive like a grandfather, so this is not really a problem. But one tempting moment at a "stop-light drag" got my wheels smoking, and a nice, sasitfying chirp when it went from 1st to 2nd. Of note, if you do not like the "wide open" noise of a FlowMaster muffler, a "bargain basement" FloPro flows just as good with a nice, deep mellow tone without the high pitched cackle at highway/passing speeds. You can still have a conversation in the truck. ;)

Hey!

I need your advice!

Check out this thread and tell me if something is wrong with my truck acceleration.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=283211&page=1&highlight=water

Videos are included. Let me know and listen to my exhaust.

Hehehe! I have a gallon of distilled water sitting in my kitchen for just this nasty little job. Your truck sounds and runs great! I do not see what you are worrying about - pulling 90+ MPH in second gear is nothing to sneeze at! Good work, and excellent documentation.
I think the reason why my tires smoke is because they have just plain old 3-ply passenger car tires on them. Good, quiet ride, but made of a harder rubber compound to wear longer. They do not grip as well as LT tires do for off-road use. When I change up the meats on my truck, switching to a real LT tire may cure my back wheel spins under heavy take-off. ;)

I have done this same water in the intake trick on my Dodge Ram 1500, and my Subaru Legacy 2.2 litre wagon. I would suggest that ASAP, after doing this job, that you get the oil changed and a new filter put on too.

Minute particles of carbon are broken up and dumped straight out your exhaust. What little that does not, loads up in your oil pretty fast. Your filter will do a good job of getting this stuff out, but the smaller particles will continue to be borne in your oil until it is changed out. And we all know what gunky oil does! Causes friction, robs power, etc. etc. We as performance nuts have a desire to keep right on the bleeding edge if we can!

The thing that I did to make it work on my Dodge in particular, was to force a mild "overheat" condition. Using a dam made from a piece of cardboard, it was slipped in against the radiator between the A/C condensor and the outside grille. It was not a complete cutting off of air flow, just enough to make the temp rise 3/4's of the way up and just rest a hair below overheating. My reasoning on this was that the engine would be close if not slightly over the boiling point of water. In the odd chance that you are not fast enough to give yourself enough throttle to prevent a stall, the interior of the engine would be hot enough to boil off the water, thus preventing hydro-lock condition when you attempted a restart.

*IF* you stall the motor doing the water trick - walk away for 15 minutes before trying again. Dropletts of water anywhere in the cylinders and in particular against the cylinder walls turn into concrete blocks at the speeds that the piston rings try to pass over them. So give it time to "cook off" before you attempt it again. This is why you *MUST* do it on a hot engine. Never work this cleaning proceedure on a cold block...ever. Good show, BlazerLT!

Hey bro.

The thing with that video is, my speedometer is in KM/HR and I was only doing 60MPH when the clip ended.

I think my cat is plugged seeing that the truck is starting to run poorly and lacking power now while accelerating from a stop light and is pinging lightly.

also, not a whole lot of exhaust is coming out when hot and the exhaust coming out is REALLY HOT!

I mean like only can hold your hand by it for a second or so.

Cat has to be partially blocked and the cat is rattleing a bit wehn it is warm now too.

Hey bro.

The thing with that video is, my speedometer is in KM/HR and I was only doing 60MPH when the clip ended.


D-oh! Going back and freezing the video on a frame where the screen is not so blurry from movement... Km/H is correct. And here I thought you had a "Super Truck". I was wondering how you got it to go so fast! Well, that just proves it, the Metric system is better for some things. :icon16: I did note that yours seems to be the OBD-II version, with the computer atop of the wiper resivoir. (Am I correct in assuming this? Mine's got the silver box behind the glovebox)

The fastest way to figure out if you have a plugged catalyst is to have a plug fashioned to fit in place of an O2 sensor. Then, use a tube to connect a pressure gague. Only unplug one O2 sensor at a time when doing this, and take pressure readings before and after the catalyst, pausing, stopping the engine and swapping the test plug into the place of the other sensor at a time. Have a buddy to help you out, you will need him/her to hit the gas to quickly "snap" the throttle open to hit about 3500 RPM. This *will* light your SES idiot lamp but reseting by lifting the ground wire off your battery cures this once the sensor is replaced.

If there is greater than 4 PSI difference between "pre" and "post" catalyst O2 sensor positions, yeah, it might be plugged, or getting there at any rate. When catalyst is functioning properly, the pressure differential between the two O2 sensor positions should only be about 1 to 2 PSI.

Yea, they tested it at a dealer but they tested it when the cat was cold and of course, it was not really restrictive.

It is only restrictive when it is hot.

Yikes, I hear you there. Dealerships are only good under warranty. And even then , they give you minimal service until the warranty has expired. I have many choice 4 letter words for those guys. I have a man locally that is one of the best shade-tree style mechanics around. Advice is always free. Shop labor applies when he turns wrenches, and he sticks to the books as an ACE certified garage. I take the works to him when I get stuck on real problems.
My advice would be to find one, and if he is a Chevrolet nut, all the better... the level of help, quality and satisfaction after the job will always be so much greater. Good luck getting that hot and stuffy exhaust figured out. It might just simply be age. If you have more than 120k miles on the clock I would suspect catalyst too. The water cleaning would not plug your catalyst - everything down-stream gets cleaned too. Get it checked soon, in these trucks, a plugged catalyst has a nasty habit of turning into free chunks that get lodged downstream in muffler baffles. Getting a chunk of rhodium/paladium/platinum coated ceramic honeycomb stuck cross-wise somewhere it does not belong will do some pretty nasty things! These include burning a hole in a pipe-bend or through the side of a muffler. I have seen that happen once before. :P

I SAID it was already OBDII, just a simpler version with less sensors and parameters. Flashing it to 1996 would maen he would have to insert a MAF into the system, install two more O2 sensors and various difference the 1996 had to the 1995.

I don't know why you are arguing with me.

because you dont get it.

first, NO it's not already OBD2, it may be real close, but its certified OBD1.

second, i said nothing about flashing it to a 96. there is a flash upgrade to make the 95 an OBD2 certified 95 model.

third, you dont know it all, as neither do I or anyone else here. nor do i sit by while someone reads something in to my post that isnt there and then continues to wonder why i disagree with them!

again, no performance gain, but there is the possibility of better error diagnostics.

taken from the GM service parts vehicle calibration website for my VIN #, my truck is a 95 w/CPI.

Part Number CVN Description

16227653 N/A NEW CALIBRATION TO ENABLE FULL OBD 2 CAPABILITY. FOR U.S. USE ONLY.

We have a VCM-A which is just a simpler OBDII system with less sensors.

Go talk to your GM dealer and have them tell you the same.

I don't just pull this shit out of my ass so I can seem smart. It is because I OWN a 1995 CPI 4x4 Blazer LT and I KNOW what my truck has.

I don't give a shit about the OBDI certification, it is a OBDII computer plain and friggin simple. If it was OBDI, I would have a computer under my glove box.

Better yet, open up your chilton's or Haynes repair manual and have them tell you the same.

ok. the mods i already have done to the truck are 2.5" pipe from the cat back with a glasspack on it. a custom air in take with dryer tubeing so i have ram air with a ITG racing cone air filter. Mobil 1 syn 10w-30. what do you think about modding the EGR. Blazerlt said it did nothing but bad for the motor. i just found out that the reason i'm getting bad gas mileage is i'm leaking from some where in the intake manifold from what i can tell. i only get about 280-250 city driving on a full tank of gas. it is a auto and a complete tune up was do when i got it which was last july. the CPI was changed some time after 97. how do you measure the fuel pressure to determine whats what. i didn't get the paper work for it but i know it was changed by the dealer. also, can you change the shift points. would make any diff?

Shift points cannot be changed.

If you are having economy problems, chances are you need to swap out the old O2 sensors for new ones.


I did and OOOOHAAAAA , bigtime mileage increase.

i changed both o2 sensors about 2 months ago. the SES light told my their was a problem in bank 1 sensor 1 and after changing it out the other one went up and so i changed that one as well. whats the fuel PSI thats supposed to be on it?

58-64psi at key ON, no start.

Don't worry, if your fuel pressure was low, it wouldn't even start.

I would pull the upper plenum cover and check for the injector leaking again.

i might do that this weekend. do you have a pic of what it would look like where it would be leaking? after it sits all night i can smell gas in the intake but other then that it runs fine but bad gas mileage. do you think its leaking or not?

Oh boy, this is not good.

If you can smell gas, you have a leak.

Also, is your fuel smelling like gas and is thin? Is the oil level high?

Here is a link where you can see where the gas has washed the inside.

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/feb2000/techtotech.htm

Here is mine when I swapped mine out. See the passenger side where the fuel has washed it gold.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113559&highlight=cpi+replacement

Get a new upper plenum gasket when you do this. You might want to have a new injector and fuel line kit (called a nut kit) so you can swap it out.

Buy the CPI injector off of ebay and the nut kit from your local dealer.

Also, get this fixed ASAP or it will kill your cat and blow your engine if the fuel thins your oil too much and you blow your lower end.

the engines been running fine. so i don't think its that bad yet but i'll try to pull it this weekend or friday since i don't have work on friday. what was your time start to finish? the oil looks fine and doesn't seem to be high or have a over powering smell of gas. i think that when the dealer changed it they didn't change the nut klit and thats where is leaking. from looking down the hole in the intake theres a spot thats washed. its towards the back and where the round part facing the passanger side is. it looks clean and the area on the back of the intake closest to the fire wall looks washed and theres a table spoon amount of gas around it on top of one of the manifold bolts. what do you think has gone bad? if you look in my gallary you will see a pic of the lower manifold with arrows pointing to the spots. the blue is where the puddle is and the yellow is the washed spot. the tubes of the CPI look a little wet but they could just be oil fumes on them. this is all i can tell from the valve on top of the motor removed.

Ok, you are in need of a new fuel injector.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/220109before2.JPG

If you have leaks in those places, the injector is shot again.

It wasn't until 1998-1999 that they came out with a new injector with the improved fuel pressure regulator seal that stops it from blowing which is causing the leak.

Let me perfectly clear on this, this has to be repaired immediately and cannot be put off. You are ruining your cat converter as we speak and your oil is being dangerously contaminated with gas and is thinning and damaging your bearings throughout your engine.

Get this fixed and while you are at it, replace the nut kit as well. Never just do one, do them both.

Fresh plenum gasket
Fresh Injector
Fresh NutKit

You will be good to go after that.

i hope to get it done by friday afternoon. i only drive about 5 mins each way to work. i was going to replace the nut kit any way since everybody always says you should. whats the price i'm looking at for the complete job and time spent? i called a local parts shop and they said they need some # of the CPI. is there one on it or do they not know wht they are talking about?

Don't get the injector at the dealer, only get the nut kit and plenum gasket at the dealer.

You can buy the injector from advance auto parts for US$270.49.

The nut kit will be about 30-50 and the gasket will be about 10.

At the dealer they will charge over Us$1000 to have this done.

how hard is it to do. i plan to pull the manifold friday and see how bad it is and if i can fix it. and yes i know RTV won't work on gas so i'm going to use steel hold which you can use on gas tanks. if i can't fix it and its really bad then i'll swap it out and out a new one it but if its just starting i decide on what to do then. can i look into the intake from the top and look at the CPI leaking or does it need to run to leak? also, i noticed it would mis alittle at idle and then i switched to 93 oct and now its there more and it louder. could the CPI be causeing it or bad gas?

Yes, the CPI will cause this.

Don't start into the ghetto fixing crap or I will never help you again and you are COMPLETELY wasting my time.

You replace it or you do nothing.

ok. i'm going to pull it friday and i'll let you know what becomes of it.

Use only fresh parts and fresh gaskets and DO NOT use friggin sealants and that crap.

Regiter and visit here for a forum thread on all the CPI / Nut kit tutorials on the net.

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34668

Again, read those links and get the pictures to help you.

Be careful and research before you do it, this is an easy job if you know what to do but it is hard if you wing it.

And only remove the plenum cover and not the whole intake.

understood.

understood.

And remember the pictures.

ok. i'd still like to know if you took the valve out of the top of the intake manifold and turn the key on but not started it, would you beable to see it leaking or would it have to be running to leak?

More than likely it leaks when you are accelerating.

I wouldn't recommend it.

Face it, it is blown, fix it.

There is no more diagnosis needed.

i didn't get to work on it this weekend but i had to install a hard pipe from the glasspack back because the flex pipe blew a hole in it and i was going to do it any way. now it will pass emissions. i'll try to get to it tuesday i'm off again. is there any thing i can put on the regulator and the inside of the manifold that will leave a mark so i'll see where it leaking the most. i tried using chulk but that soaked up the oil or gas.

STOP DIAGNOSING IT AND REPLACE THE DAMN THING!!!

Would you god damn well listen and stop pissing around with finding out what it is and replace the injector and fuel lines!!!!!

You are ruining your engine with all this letting it keep going this bad and ladening your oil with gas , ruining your cat, destroying your bearings.

Replace it and stop fucking around like a teenager.

STOP DIAGNOSING IT AND REPLACE THE DAMN THING!!!

Would you god damn well listen and stop pissing around with finding out what it is and replace the injector and fuel lines!!!!!

You are ruining your engine with all this letting it keep going this bad and ladening your oil with gas , ruining your cat, destroying your bearings.

Replace it and stop fucking around like a teenager.

YOU need to chill.....there is absolutely no need for the language and badgering in your replys to him.

it is after all, his to do with as he pleases. maybe he doesnt have $350 to drop on it. its his entire right to replace only what is leaking at the moment. should it only be the nut kit leaking, then he doesnt need to spend $270 on an injector. if he has to replace the injector 20,000 miles from now so be it, its only a gasket and a little bit of time.

i know your gonna swear that'll he'll kill his motor, but he's already said the oil doesnt smell of gas, and unless he has raw gas going into the cat, he aint killing it either.

you seem to like being hard on peoples wallets.

YOU need to chill.....there is absolutely no need for the language and badgering in your replys to him.

You need to STFU and mind your own business.

it is after all, his to do with as he pleases. maybe he doesnt have $350 to drop on it. its his entire right to replace only what is leaking at the moment. should it only be the nut kit leaking, then he doesnt need to spend $270 on an injector. if he has to replace the injector 20,000 miles from now so be it, its only a gasket and a little bit of time.

Then why come in here and keep asking four or five times what is wrong when he won't even fix it. I told him what needs to replace to fix it and he keeps on pissing around. This is a waste of time.

And yes, you replace both and not just one or the other because they are both prone to failure. Replace both once and you are good to go for a long time.

i know your gonna swear that'll he'll kill his motor, but he's already said the oil doesnt smell of gas, and unless he has raw gas going into the cat, he aint killing it either.

Oh, and you know this do you? Tell me this, where is this gas going then?

Is it disappearing and going to LALA land?

Tell me this, how much experience do you have with the CPI injection system? Do you even own one or have even worked on one?

you seem to like being hard on peoples wallets.

And you need to kiss my ass and realize how much money I have saved people instead of throwing arrogant, ignorant and rude comments like that.

Why the hell I am doing in these forums moron....

What are you, some kind of ignorant knight in shining armour coming out of no where and spouting a bunch of bulshit about something you don't even know about?

Work on a CPI system for a while and then come back and question my repir practises and advice and until then STFU.

sometimes people need someone to wake them up and get them going instead of kicking the can around about a repair.

ok. as soon as i get the chance i'm going to pull the intake. i know the truck was bought from the dealer used and had about 45,000 on it in 98. i got the truck from my grandfather in 2003. between the time he got it and i got it the CPI was changed by the dealer. i don't think they changed the nut kit so i'm plainning on changing it. if i pull the intake and the CPI is leaking then i will change both. if the CPI was changed not that long ago then i'm not worried. can you get the CPI fuel lines that go to each F.I. unit? today i pulled the sensor out of the top of the motor and i could see what looks like 2 little puddles and so i used a cotten balled toll and soaked all of it up. i took it for a drive driving it easy and then checked it and it was the same. then i took it for a drive and raced it and came back and looked the same but the round part that you can see from the hole looked a little wet but not soaked. i still plan on pulling the intake but like i said it still runs ok for now and no gas smeel is in the oil. but when i get the chance i'm going to pull it and see whats happening. i know that no extra gas is being dumped in the cat because my EGR got fucked up a while back and it ran like shit and ran rich enough that you could smell raw gas. its not to that point. i don't know where the gas that is leaking is going but if i'm only leaking a teaspoon of gas after every tank then i'll get to it when i can. in about a week i should be able to pull it and see what happening. and blazerlt, i understand your concern but i don't have the time right now and i don't get paid untill last week and the little bit of money i had just went to pay for the insurance on the truck. next pay check which is in a week will pay for the job to be done. if it gets worse then i'll fix it sooner.

Blazerlt may know the exact answer but I believe that starting in 95 you can get individual fuel lines. I know for my 94 I had to buy the whole Spider unit even though I had only one line leaking(cylinder 1--wiring harness laying across tube rubbed a whole through---nice factory installation--lol). As far as fuel leaking it takes about 1-3% fuel in your engine oil (4-5 qts) to really see the viscosity thin out and the lubrication properties to be affected. Any fuel leaking is cause for concern and shoul be addressed ASAP because the longer ya wait the more potential there is for that leak to increase and cause the damage that you were trying/hoping to avoid. Follow Blazerlt's guidlines for looking at the cpi--it's detailed excellently.

ok. as soon as i get the chance i'm going to pull the intake. i know the truck was bought from the dealer used and had about 45,000 on it in 98. i got the truck from my grandfather in 2003. between the time he got it and i got it the CPI was changed by the dealer. i don't think they changed the nut kit so i'm plainning on changing it. if i pull the intake and the CPI is leaking then i will change both. if the CPI was changed not that long ago then i'm not worried. can you get the CPI fuel lines that go to each F.I. unit? today i pulled the sensor out of the top of the motor and i could see what looks like 2 little puddles and so i used a cotten balled toll and soaked all of it up. i took it for a drive driving it easy and then checked it and it was the same. then i took it for a drive and raced it and came back and looked the same but the round part that you can see from the hole looked a little wet but not soaked. i still plan on pulling the intake but like i said it still runs ok for now and no gas smeel is in the oil. but when i get the chance i'm going to pull it and see whats happening. i know that no extra gas is being dumped in the cat because my EGR got fucked up a while back and it ran like shit and ran rich enough that you could smell raw gas. its not to that point. i don't know where the gas that is leaking is going but if i'm only leaking a teaspoon of gas after every tank then i'll get to it when i can. in about a week i should be able to pull it and see what happening. and blazerlt, i understand your concern but i don't have the time right now and i don't get paid untill last week and the little bit of money i had just went to pay for the insurance on the truck. next pay check which is in a week will pay for the job to be done. if it gets worse then i'll fix it sooner.

Thanks for understanding that I am not trying to be a dick to you, but I am genuinely concerned for your situation and I know for a fact that your oil although is not smelling of gas is indeed being thinned out.

The revised CPI injector was not released until after 98 if memory concerns me well and the unit they swapped in is just as defective as the original.

Replace both the CPI injector and the nut kit as a pair. When you replace one or the other, you still disturb the other and they usually fail within a short time.

I am just trying to help you through experience.

Agina, thanks for understanding I am only here to help you. This is a major thing you need to take care of before anything else.