Obd1.5

Blazerlt may know the exact answer but I believe that starting in 95 you can get individual fuel lines. I know for my 94 I had to buy the whole Spider unit even though I had only one line leaking(cylinder 1--wiring harness laying across tube rubbed a whole through---nice factory installation--lol). As far as fuel leaking it takes about 1-3% fuel in your engine oil (4-5 qts) to really see the viscosity thin out and the lubrication properties to be affected. Any fuel leaking is cause for concern and shoul be addressed ASAP because the longer ya wait the more potential there is for that leak to increase and cause the damage that you were trying/hoping to avoid. Follow Blazerlt's guidlines for looking at the cpi--it's detailed excellently.

Thank you for your kind words. When these CPI or nut kits leak, they leak in a big way and 4-5 % dilution within a couple weeks is not normal.

Plus the fuel acts as a solvent which dissolves a lot of sludge out of the engine and clogs the oil filter prematurely forcing it into unfiltering bypass mode.

Both are really bad.

You need to STFU and mind your own business.



Then why come in here and keep asking four or five times what is wrong when he won't even fix it. I told him what needs to replace to fix it and he keeps on pissing around. This is a waste of time.

And yes, you replace both and not just one or the other because they are both prone to failure. Replace both once and you are good to go for a long time.



Oh, and you know this do you? Tell me this, where is this gas going then?

Is it disappearing and going to LALA land?

Tell me this, how much experience do you have with the CPI injection system? Do you even own one or have even worked on one?



And you need to kiss my ass and realize how much money I have saved people instead of throwing arrogant, ignorant and rude comments like that.

Why the hell I am doing in these forums moron....

What are you, some kind of ignorant knight in shining armour coming out of no where and spouting a bunch of bulshit about something you don't even know about?

Work on a CPI system for a while and then come back and question my repir practises and advice and until then STFU.

sometimes people need someone to wake them up and get them going instead of kicking the can around about a repair.

1) i dont care how many times he comes here asking for help, you have NO right for all the cussing and name calling. if he doesnt wanna follow the advice given, then so be it, just quit posting to him.

2) its totally with in his right to only fix whats leaking. again, who says he has $270 to spend on an injector that may not be leaking, when $50 will fix the nut kit if its leaking. so what if the injector goes 20,000 miles later, that just 20,000 miles more (and over a year and a half on average mileage) he got out of it. its not like the entire motor has to be torn down to get to it.

3) yes you are reckless with peoples wallets. ie. you told me personally that i should spend $350 to replace my CPI thats not leaking, simply because it has 180,000 miles on it and it's "on borrowed time" as you put it. why not run it till it needs replaced? ive already gotten an extra 80,000 miles out of it by not using your logic. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

4) i didnt offer any ideas as where his gas was going, but if its not in the oil, and its not running really really rich, then it stands to reason that his leak isnt pouring lots of gas, and could very well be a fine mist that doesnt that doesnt have time to even form a puddle in the 5 miles that he drives, and then evaporates after he shuts it off. who know's where its going, but if its not in oil like he said, then hes not killing his lower end.

5) if you knew as much as you'd like to think you do, and i quote your previous post "More than likely it leaks when you are accelerating."
you'd know how stupid that sounds. the fuel pressure in the fuel lines and regulator are totally independant of the accelerator, meaning that regardless of whether the motor is idling or turning 5,000 rpms, if theres a fuel leak, then its gonna leak the same all the time because the fuel pressure remains constant and doesnt care how far your mashing the gas pedal.

6) yes i own a 95 CPI, so yes i know full well what im talking about. ive fixed more cars (physically, not from behind the keyboard like you) then you can shake a stick at. I have more specialty auto tools and manuals (scan tools and test equipment included) than most could dream of. i currently handle all repairs on 10 vehicles owned by me and my family members ( 2 S-10's '85 & '95, 1 Blazer '00, 5 Corsica's '88, '90 , '93 , '94 , '96, 1 '97 Malibu, and a '98 Cavalier)
none of these go back to the stealership for anything. the Corsicas alone demand alot of time. i'll be glad when the day comes that there all gone.

ive been fixing cars for the better part of 18 years, including several rebuilt carb's, the complete top end of a 400 small block chevy (72 Impala), replaced two transmissions ( 87 Grand Am, 94 Corsica), new cam in the 87 Grand Am thanks to a $2.00 valve lifter guide retainer that broke and dished two lobes of the cam, complete front strut replacement on the 94 Corsica, replaced the timing gear set on the 85 S-10, which requires the cam to be pulled because the cam gear is pressed on, repaired the front end of the '93 Corsica when my old lady rear ended another car, replaced a dozen or so alternators, the list goes on and on.

so dont sit there and tell me i have no idea what im talking about, i'll car repair you under the table any day.

bottom line, yes he needs to fix his problem without spending money on un-necessary parts. no, no matter what kinda spin you put on it, you dont have any excuse for the langauge, name calling, and personal attacks you've posted. however if you insist on calling me names, then you can come on down here and do it face to face, rather than hiding behind that keyboard. i'll guarantee you, you'll need help getting back home.

1) i dont care how many times he comes here asking for help, you have NO right for all the cussing and name calling. if he doesnt wanna follow the advice given, then so be it, just quit posting to him.

I'll do what I want and if you got a problem, how about YOU take a spoonful of your own medicine and STFU. As you can see, he understands I am only trying to help. As to your thoughts, I could care less.

2) its totally with in his right to only fix whats leaking. again, who says he has $270 to spend on an injector that may not be leaking, when $50 will fix the nut kit if its leaking. so what if the injector goes 20,000 miles later, that just 20,000 miles more (and over a year and a half on average mileage) he got out of it. its not like the entire motor has to be torn down to get to it.

You have everything open and sitting in front of you, get it all done in one shot instead of having it leave you stranded in the middle of no where. Maybe that extra money and 20,000miles you saved will pay for your tow truck and the local mechanic in the middle of no where that will charge you an arm and a leg because you decided to be cheap.

It's all about logic.

3) yes you are reckless with peoples wallets. ie. you told me personally that i should spend $350 to replace my CPI thats not leaking, simply because it has 180,000 miles on it and it's "on borrowed time" as you put it. why not run it till it needs replaced? ive already gotten an extra 80,000 miles out of it by not using your logic. if it aint broke, dont fix it.

I'm sorry, you have gotten 80,000miles in one month or something? Somehow I talked to you 4 years ago. When in hell's name have I talked to you about this? Please show proof where 80,000miles ago I talked to you about this. Also, show me proof that your CPI injector is not leaking. You probably don't know do you because you are hypothetically know its' condition from driving it right.....WRONG!

You show proof where I was reckless with people's wallets and I will show you 10x the threads where I saved people money.

4) i didnt offer any ideas as where his gas was going, but if its not in the oil, and its not running really really rich, then it stands to reason that his leak isnt pouring lots of gas, and could very well be a fine mist that doesnt that doesnt have time to even form a puddle in the 5 miles that he drives, and then evaporates after he shuts it off. who know's where its going, but if its not in oil like he said, then hes not killing his lower end.

Again, friggin read his latest posts and you will see that it is pooling in his lower intake after each trip he takes. Please read before you post your thoughts and bring yourself up to speed on the problem before posting nonsense.

Evaporates to where, where does gas trapped leaked fuel go in an enclosed area? Does it die and go to heaven?

5) if you knew as much as you'd like to think you do, and i quote your previous post "More than likely it leaks when you are accelerating." you'd know how stupid that sounds. the fuel pressure in the fuel lines and regulator are totally independant of the accelerator, meaning that regardless of whether the motor is idling or turning 5,000 rpms, if theres a fuel leak, then its gonna leak the same all the time because the fuel pressure remains constant and doesnt care how far your mashing the gas pedal.

Oh really, than you explain the gas smell coming from MY engine compartment when I was accelerating hard but not when I was idling and during normal acceleration.

6) yes i own a 95 CPI, so yes i know full well what im talking about. ive fixed more cars (physically, not from behind the keyboard like you) then you can shake a stick at. I have more specialty auto tools and manuals (scan tools and test equipment included) than most could dream of. i currently handle all repairs on 10 vehicles owned by me and my family members ( 2 S-10's '85 & '95, 1 Blazer '00, 5 Corsica's '88, '90 , '93 , '94 , '96, 1 '97 Malibu, and a '98 Cavalier)
none of these go back to the stealership for anything. the Corsicas alone demand alot of time. i'll be glad when the day comes that there all gone.

I could care less what you repair. I am not going to sit here and thump my chest trying to make myself look better than you. I have my knowledge about this situation and I will stick by my advice.

If you have a problem with it, you can kiss my ass.

ive been fixing cars for the better part of 18 years, including several rebuilt carb's, the complete top end of a 400 small block chevy (72 Impala), replaced two transmissions ( 87 Grand Am, 94 Corsica), new cam in the 87 Grand Am thanks to a $2.00 valve lifter guide retainer that broke and dished two lobes of the cam, complete front strut replacement on the 94 Corsica, replaced the timing gear set on the 85 S-10, which requires the cam to be pulled because the cam gear is pressed on, repaired the front end of the '93 Corsica when my old lady rear ended another car, replaced a dozen or so alternators, the list goes on and on.

Are you going to state all your repairs in your life and some desperate grasp at making yourself superior or something?

so dont sit there and tell me i have no idea what im talking about, i'll car repair you under the table any day.

LMAO! Look everyone, somehow he is challenging me to a intarweb repair competition!!!

My god, can you act anymore like a child? Grow the fuck up......

bottom line, yes he needs to fix his problem without spending money on un-necessary parts. no, no matter what kinda spin you put on it, you dont have any excuse for the langauge, name calling, and personal attacks you've posted. however if you insist on calling me names, then you can come on down here and do it face to face, rather than hiding behind that keyboard. i'll guarantee you, you'll need help getting back home.

OH LOOK, A PHYSICAL THREAT....LOLOLOLOL

You are a complete joke. So by your thoughts I can't swear but you can physically threaten me? Oh my god, you are the lowest of the low and a true representative of the intarweb keyboard commandos.

God, this is funny, you are such a fucking moron it is absolutely blinding.

Here is meathead's cliff notes:

You no swear.....grunt...you give bad advice...grunt....me repair many cars...grunt.....me repair many cars for many years.....grunt....don't swear.....grunt......I will beat you up cause I don't like your advice....grunt.....me tough intarweb internet commando....grunt....can I have a hug?

I find it kinda funney how you are both going at it over such a stupid thing but i don't want to get involed. if you 2 both want to still go at it then have fun and let me know who wins. as far as blazerlt, you said you have a gas smell coming from your engine compartment. was the engine off and cold, was the intake pulled off or were you driving and could smell it? on the pic below can anybody tell me where the nut kit is and the CPI. which side is the nut kit on. i checked the side with the leak and there is no change yet but i'm keeping a eye on it. sorry if the photo doesn't show but theres another one back a page or 2 of what the lower intake looks like. is it possable that the computer reading the exrta rich condition is leaning the gas mix to not run rich? and now i'm not pulling the lower manifold every time i'm looking at it. i'm only pulling the vavle on top of the motor under the Vortc plate. if you pull it of and look inside this is a easy way to see the CPI and this is how i smell the gas as well as seeing the area that looks washed. i have noticed that the truck starts a little rougher then when the gas was sitting there so i don't know whats up. i'm off all day friday so i might pull it and see whats going on and then put it back knowing what i have to fix. i plan on when i fix it that if i can just replace the nut kit since i think thats whats leaking and replace the fuel lines so that they won't leak later. does the CPI unit leak its self or does on of the lines leak? also towing is covered by insurance and if i get stuck somewhere then it will be towed and if the motors dead because of running it then i'll just drop in a 350 so its not really a diff to me. i'm just going to fix what the problem is now and if i get 2,000 more miles out of the CPI then i'll be happy and it was changed after 98 so it should be the better on and it shouldn't be leaking but if you could tell me which parts are which that would help.

Not quite sure what you are asking but maybe this will help.

http://forums.s-series.org/viewtopic.php?t=2278

Register on the s-10 forums(lots of good info--Blazerlt can attest to that)

I find it kinda funney how you are both going at it over such a stupid thing but i don't want to get involed. if you 2 both want to still go at it then have fun and let me know who wins. as far as blazerlt, you said you have a gas smell coming from your engine compartment. was the engine off and cold, was the intake pulled off or were you driving and could smell it? on the pic below can anybody tell me where the nut kit is and the CPI. which side is the nut kit on. i checked the side with the leak and there is no change yet but i'm keeping a eye on it. sorry if the photo doesn't show but theres another one back a page or 2 of what the lower intake looks like. is it possable that the computer reading the exrta rich condition is leaning the gas mix to not run rich? and now i'm not pulling the lower manifold every time i'm looking at it. i'm only pulling the vavle on top of the motor under the Vortc plate. if you pull it of and look inside this is a easy way to see the CPI and this is how i smell the gas as well as seeing the area that looks washed. i have noticed that the truck starts a little rougher then when the gas was sitting there so i don't know whats up. i'm off all day friday so i might pull it and see whats going on and then put it back knowing what i have to fix. i plan on when i fix it that if i can just replace the nut kit since i think thats whats leaking and replace the fuel lines so that they won't leak later. does the CPI unit leak its self or does on of the lines leak? also towing is covered by insurance and if i get stuck somewhere then it will be towed and if the motors dead because of running it then i'll just drop in a 350 so its not really a diff to me. i'm just going to fix what the problem is now and if i get 2,000 more miles out of the CPI then i'll be happy and it was changed after 98 so it should be the better on and it shouldn't be leaking but if you could tell me which parts are which that would help.

You have a bad fuel pressure regulator causing your leaking but you need to stop asking what to do and remove the cover and look for yourself.

1.) Open it up and look.

2.) For sure you injector is bad seeing the leaking pools of gas on the passenger inside portion of the plenum.

There is no question here, you keep on asking the same questions over and over and over.

Open up the plenum and replace the injector because for sure it is leaking if you have pools of gas in the passenger side.

The nutkit is 50 bucks and should be replaced with it.

Stop assuming because it was replaced in 1998 that it is fine.

This is getting incredibly frustrating and I am sick of answering the same question 10 times.

I am no longer going to help here, good luck.

Taking the plenum cover off is no big deal metallica. Like blazerlt said, replace both parts right away and save yourself some time and duplicate parts(plenum gasket). Yeah its only a couple of bucks but why do the same job twice? Plenty of good articles and pictures to help along the way. Take your own pictures before and during to help in the reasssembly if necessary. Nobody is gonna know.

I'm sorry, you have gotten 80,000miles in one month or something? Somehow I talked to you 4 years ago. When in hell's name have I talked to you about this? Please show proof where 80,000miles ago I talked to you about this. Also, show me proof that your CPI injector is not leaking. You probably don't know do you because you are hypothetically know its' condition from driving it right.....WRONG!

are you really that slow? cause im getting tired of explaining everything in a way that a 5 year old can understand.

80,000 miles more out of mine by not following your logic, because using your logic, i should have replaced it at 100,000 miles.

as for mine not leaking, my excellent gas mileage, no gas smell, no gas in the oil, is all the proof i need.





Oh really, than you explain the gas smell coming from MY engine compartment when I was accelerating hard but not when I was idling and during normal acceleration.

i stand by my previous statement, a fuel line under constant pressure is gonna leak the same no matter how far you mash the gas. accept it, your wrong no matter how much you think the gas smell changed.




Are you going to state all your repairs in your life and some desperate grasp at making yourself superior or something?

your the lowlife that acted like i know nothing about vehicles, i simply stated a small amount of what ive done. if your gonna make false statements about me, then you better be ready for the response.




LMAO! Look everyone, somehow he is challenging me to a intarweb repair competition!!!

web no, i stated that i can physically out repair you anyday. take away your keyboard and you couldnt fix squat.






OH LOOK, A PHYSICAL THREAT....LOLOLOLOL

You are a complete joke. So by your thoughts I can't swear but you can physically threaten me? Oh my god, you are the lowest of the low and a true representative of the intarweb keyboard commandos.

no threat, more like a promise. your the one hidding behind the keyboard, calling people names, being verbally abusive, etc. and i said if you want to continue that in your respnses to me, then come on down and do it face to face, rather than hide behind your keyboard. however we all know your not man enough. ive seen your kind on a many of forum, and it is indeed tiresome.


BTW, the only joke here is you


Here is meathead's cliff notes:

You no swear.....grunt...you give bad advice...grunt....me repair many cars...grunt.....me repair many cars for many years.....grunt....don't swear.....grunt......I will beat you up cause I don't like your advice....grunt.....me tough intarweb internet commando..grunt....can I have a hug?

there ya go.....and your telling me to grow up?

Pulling the upper intake manifold tomarrow aan i'll see whats going on. there still seems to be no change in the gas puddle levels but the intake still smells like gas. i hope to have it open with in a hour an back togather in about the same time. i'm planning to see whats bad and then put it back togather and then fix it later once i've gotten the parts. i know i should fix it while its open but if i don't have the parts with me then i can't fix it then and i can't drive the truck to get them. i think it might be getting worse though because now i noticed that sometimes when i drive it sounds like the motors not running right. i plan to follow s10forums.com way on pulling it.

if the motor feels like it is surging---not pulling smoothly than yep it's time to change it out. if ya haven't changed your oil in a while don't forget that too. s-10 forums is really good-very descriptive. if you don't replace the plenum gasket ya may have some leaks---don't forget, so the truck may run worse.

i'm on there site right now looking up how to pull it.

is the fuel regulator outside shell supposed to be black or like a golden color? how do you tell if the regulator is leaking from the bleed hole or outer gasket?

ok. i pulled the upper intake and it doesn't look washed but doesn't look dirty. when i pulled it i noticed that there was oil laying on the gasket around the EGR valve. could the oil leak some how making it look like a gas leak but not be leaking gas. after i put it back togather i took it for a drive and it seems to run a little better. i used head gasket sealent with the gasket os it would be a good seel. when i pulled the old one off it just pulled right up. it didn't stick at all and around the EGR port there was oil on the gasket. how elise could you have the intake smell like gas but not have a gas leak? and i wasn't able to get fuel lines to each injector. i can only by the entire CPI unit. i was going to change the lines since they were very stiff and could leak in the near future. i smelled the exhaust and it doesn't smell rich. i'll try to pst some pics of what it looked like. it had a golden color to it but you could see a thin oil film with some carbon or dirt stuck to it but i don't know if i have a leak or if its that clean from running injestor cleaner about evry month. i've been watching the gas milage and its about 350 a tank of 87 oct. its not all city but its not all high way. i still would like to know where i'm leaking gas if i am. i tried smelling all around the CPI and i couldn't smell any gas and i wiped down all of the fuel line including the regulator and turned the key on and let it sit for 15 mins and no wet spots and didn't smell like gas. i touched all 4 of the small puddles i could find and they all looked like oil and had a hint of gas to them but nothing to out of the norm and they had the same feel as oil does. wasn't extra runney. any ides?

Yep you have to buy the whole spider unit---that's the deal with that design. If your lines are stiff I'ld replace them. Also, did you clean out around your egr port? If you have some restriction you may get the effect of a "rich" smell due to gases being restricted plus it will affect your mileage. Check your pvc valve too. Oil deposits seem mysterious.

the EGR ports were clean when i pulled it off and there was a little bit of a oil film in them. i do race the truck 1-2 times a week. i think that may be why its so clean. like i said the gas mileage is doing good right now. the PCV valve is only about 2 weeks old.

i can't post the pics for some reason but give me your e-mail address and i'll e-mail them to you. they are what the upper intake looked like and the lower. there is also a few with the puddles i found laying in there.

is anybody have any idea on what i'm talking about? is this norm or not?

is anybody going to help?

Yeah suck when boy try to be men!

But I'm still wondering about the OBD1.5 to OBD2. Now I don;t care anywhich way how people feel about the swap itself! I want INFORMATION that does not include someones opinion!

FACT......PROVEN FACT On how to achieve the swap!

I don;t want "Its a waste of time" That does not concern me!

I don't want "OBD1.5 is OBD2" well if that were right I guess there wouldn't be two classifications.....Would there?

The added Sensors allow a great deal of headway when trying to trouble shoot a problem! Plain and simple! It is also "said" To be more fuel efficent with better control over fuel to air!


SO LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT
I want to know how to! Like I said above I don't give a german monkey's arse if it is not "worth the time" Or "Worth the money" that is your opinion! NOT MINE!

Yeah suck when boy try to be men!

But I'm still wondering about the OBD1.5 to OBD2. Now I don;t care anywhich way how people feel about the swap itself! I want INFORMATION that does not include someones opinion!

FACT......PROVEN FACT On how to achieve the swap!

I don;t want "Its a waste of time" That does not concern me!

I don't want "OBD1.5 is OBD2" well if that were right I guess there wouldn't be two classifications.....Would there?

The added Sensors allow a great deal of headway when trying to trouble shoot a problem! Plain and simple! It is also "said" To be more fuel efficent with better control over fuel to air!


SO LET ME GET THIS STRAIGHT
I want to know how to! Like I said above I don't give a german monkey's arse if it is not "worth the time" Or "Worth the money" that is your opinion! NOT MINE!

if you have a 95 w/CPI then it should only be a matter of a flash upgrade to the computer.

go here http://calid.gm.com/vci/VINEntryPre.do and plug in your vin#, you should be able to find out.