No Oil Pressure

Hi,

I've got a 1996 windstar and recently got it out of the shop 6 months ago no oil pressure. The mechanic said that the oil pickup screen was completely clogged and the pressure relief valve was sticking. He cleaned everything but didn't replace anything. The bill was $450. He said that it could happen again but I wasn't expecting it so soon. It worked for about 2 months and the engine shut off for no oil pressure again. We had it towed to the house and the engine may be still good. But when you start it, there is "no oil" being pumped. I took the oil filler cap off and looked inside the engine. It is dry in there. I drained all the oil out and changed the filter and refilled with oil. It has the same problem.

Does anyone know what could be the problem? I am in the process of taking off the oil pan to look. But the hurricane has put that on hold for now.

I would appreciate any troubleshooting ideas on what I need to troubleshoot/change. I am tired of paying mechanics for this kind of service and am trying to fix it. Please help

Greg

I've never dropped the oil pan on my '99 3.8L Winnie, but have had the intake manifold off. At 93 kmiles, I was very impressed with its internal cleanliness. I accredit this to an (perhaps "over") energetic PCV system. I wonder what the your oil pump inlet screen was "clogged" with? Was it crud or metal?

Whatever it was, perhaps some of it lodged in the pressure relief valve permanently keeping it open. The relief spring may also be broken.

If the engine didn't get noisy, I would make sure the oil pressure switch isn't "lying".

If the inside of the block looks OK, I would still not trust the pump again -- even if cleaned/repaired. It is a good practice to replace with a new (aftermarket?) pump during any shortblock work. Be sure to put several drops of oil in the new pump. Be sure to try twisting the lower end of the pump drive shaft to make sure its not broken between the cam shaft and pump. (I'm assuming the pump is driven by the cam on this engine and not by the timing chain.)

It is also a good practice, after buttoning up the short block and filling with oil, to lift the pump's regular drive shaft out -- and using a special temp shaft, drive the oil pump with an elect drill. This wets the engine internals with oil before turning the engine over. Unfortunately, it also requires retiming the cam sensor for proper fuel timing.

An alternate practice, that is fairly good, is to just remove all spark plugs and crank the engine 'till the pump and oil arteries are well primed.

Isn't the oil pump built into the aluminum timing chain cover on the 3.8L? It's a funky "external design" pump. IIRC- they had problems with sticking press relief valves on certain years. That usually resulted in exploding oil filters on a cold start though :uhoh: .
G/luck
Joel

On my '99 3.8L the oil pump is indeed external and on the bottom of the front cover, held by 6 bolts.

But is this the arrangement on the '96 ? I'm not sure.

The '99 3.0L apparently has the pump inside the oil pan against the block bottom.

The mechanic said that it was clogged with "crud". And the oil pressure switch is telling the truth. The engine is getting noisy and there is no visible oil flowing, as seen through the oil filler cap.

What would be my best bet to change. The pressure relief valve, which was sticking when the real mechanic worked on it, or the oil pump which he said was working great when he spun it with a drill motor / OR BOTH?

Thanks for the help!

Greg

Most pressure relief valves these days are built in the pump unit. I would replace the whole unit. I don't think the aftermarket units cost that much.

Be sure to check the pump drive shaft. They do break from time to time.

By the way, is your engine a 3.8? Is the pump in the oil pan?

Yes, it is a 3.8L 6 cylinder and I will let you know later on the oil pump location. I am not sure yet, but will get back into it this weekend.

Thanks,
Greg

If you have the chance you may want to stop by a Ford parts counter and ask for a print-out of the engine exploded view, for your particular model, showing the oil pump. It will be a good thing to have as you start your disassembly.

I'm never too proud to do this. These parts views often have info that even the shop manual doesn't have.

How much does Ford charge for a print out of the engine? I planned on buying the parts from Autozone or Advance, not from Ford.

If I decide to do this job myself, can someone here "walk" me through any problems or questions I might have. My specialty is working on electronic circuitry, not mechanics. I am just tired of the service I am getting from the "real" mechanics.

Thanks!!!

There should be no charge for the (8 1/2 x 11) print-out that shows part nos, etc. While there, ask for pricing on the oil pump .. you may find Ford not that expensive .. on some rare occasions, I find Ford actually lower priced.

I'm sure there are many who will step in with info if they have it. I will also try if I can. But this weekend I will be off-line for several days.

Well, I called FORD today to check on prices for the oil pump/PRV. They said it was one unit and was part of the front timing cover. It cost $189.

How hard is this going to be to change in that location? Does anybody know what all has to come off to get the front timing cover off? And when it is off, how hard to change out? Should a DIY'er with not too much experience try it?

Thanks alot for all the past advice! I am listening and learning!

Greg

The Ford folks may be exactly right .. or they may be full of it.

If I get a chance I'll do some research tomorrow. But I don't know what engine we're talking about? Is it the 3.8 or 3.0? What is the build date of your car ... this date will be on the VIN plate. Get this back to me tonight.

OK

I've got a 3.8 Liter Windstar with a manufactured of September 1996

Thanks alot for your time and continuing on with this problem!

Greg

Go to Autozone's free repair information.....
Engine overhaul and repair....
Select Oil Pump replacement......
Scroll down past the 3.0L engine to read the 3.8L engine.
They make it look easy..... I have never done this...but there is not a lot of room down there.

www.autozone.com

My morning walk and coffee outing takes me near a Ford dealership ... and I needed to get an update on all the part sellers' war stories.

Since your vehicle has a Sept '96 date, they call it a '97. The layout of the oil pump etc is the same as my '99. The alum piece that the oil filter screws onto... is the oil pump. 6 bolts.

I picked up two print-outs that you would want:
"1997 TW (Windstar)/60 Engine/6cyl.3.8L/Oil Pump"
and;
"1997 TW (Windstar)/103-Alternator, Instrument Cluster, Battery/SYNCRONIZER/6CYL. 3.0L" ........I can't explain the title reference to 3.0, but the sketch shows currect part numbers for a 3.8..???????

The oil pump is Ford part #6603. The shop manual says the removal of the oil pump is a "in vehicle repair" .. good news! I was quoted $130 from Ford as price of pump. Apparently however, the 3-part (piston, screen, spring) oil pressure relief valve is part of the balance of the front cover, not part of the Ford oil pump ... bad news!

NAPA sells a Clevite oil pump #6012084 for $126 ... it includes the pressure relief valve... good news! By the way, the press relief valve is held in place, up in the front cover, by the oil pump.

While visiting with Ford, they shared with me that they sell several synchronizers (#12A362) as repair parts. This is not good news. They had no good idea of what is failing, but I'm guessing if the bottom of the synchro unit end is failing... there goes oil pressure.

If you have a Fax number, I can send you some sketches. But it's gotta happen before late morning tomorrow.

Good luck.

Just to add a note....to avoid possible confusion.

You may or may not have an Engine Oil cooler.

The Autozone website repair instructions show a picture of the Factory Installed Engine Oil cooler.
This is the part with 2 tubes that goes in between the oil filter and the oil pump.

The tubes connect to hoses that go to the coolant system......antifreeze flows through the tubes shown on the cooler.

If you do not have the cooler, your filter screws onto the flange that is shown on the oil pump.

Good luck on your repair....and please let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the very valuabe info! I would've never known they called my 96 a 97 model! And the prints, I would love to have. I am trying to find someone with a fax machine that I know. If I do, I will let you know before late morning tomorrow.

There are a couple things I need clarification on.

1) You are saying that the oil pump is not in the timing cover but what the filter is connected to, right?

2) That the 3-part (piston, screen, spring) oil pressure relief valve is inside the front timing cover, right?

3) What do the several synchronizers you mention do? Do they drive the oil pump? Are they like gears?

4) What is considered an "in vehicle repair" ?

Sorry for the list! You can tell I'm a "newbie" to the lingo.

Thanks!
I will let you know if I can find a fax!

"In vehicle repair" means that you do not have to remove the engine to do the repair.

Replacing the timing cover gasket is an example of a repair that is not "In Vehicle"....
Step 1 of that repair process is...."Remove Engine".

I have included a link to a dealer's website for parts.
If you look up your part......many of them have a box says something like "show part"....is next to the "buy" button. If you click this.....you will see a picture of a parts breakdown..... Not real clear....but can give you an idea. If you have your VIN written down before you order.... You will be able to enter it....to help them make sure you get the right part.
I am not telling you that this is the best place to buy your parts.....but is a good place to find out the dealer list price and such. As well as what the parts breakdown is.

Yes....the filter connects directly to the oil pump.....unless you have the factory installed Engine Oil Cooler......In which case....it is a small part that is mounted onto the oil filter mount on the oil pump.....and then the filter screws into that. The autozone website shows the cooler.
Mentioning it to you so that in case you have it.....You will know what it is when you start working.

http://www.fordpartsnetwork.com/

Another place to look up part numbers.....but not price is www.motorcraft.com

2) The pressure relief valve may just fall out of the front cover when you remove the oil pump from the front cover.

3) Actually there is only one syncronizer ... I just ramble. The syncro does indeed have a gear-to-gear hook up with the cam and does indeed drive the oil pump.. there is a coupling shaft that connects the syncro to the oil pump. The syncro sllides down thru a hole in the front cover ... just behind the water pump ... it is held in place with one bolt and washer. The top of the syncro is used to drive the cam position sensor.

If you find you want to remove and inspect the sychronizer, you must first remove the elect cam pos sensor. Ford uses 2 funny screws to hold this sensor in place .. on my model they were 7/32" hex screws. You should mark the location of the syncro-to-cover before loosening the single hold down bolt ... and until you get the syncro exactly back in place, the crankshaft (camshaft) must not be rotated at all ... none. It is easier (but not impossible) to get the syncro back in place while the oil pump, and connecting shaft, are NOT in place.

The above just make it easier to get the cam sensor in proper location. But you can, instead, follow the procedure given in Haynes.

I am having the same problem with my 96 Windstar 3.8; no oil pressure (after a head gasket replacement job). The two nearest Ford dealers do not want to hear about any problems...just replace the engine for 4g's. I will let it rust to dust before I do that!
But to check and/or replace the oil pressure relief valve, I need to drop the engine and elevate the car...this is ridiculous, of course.
So my questions is- how much of the car must I tear, cut away, to get the timing cover off and check/replace the oil relief valve without taking the engine out. But while I'm at it, I suspect that the real problem is the oil pump/driveshaft/camshaft position sensor assembly is the actual culprit. What do you think? I also like the idea of cranking the engine without the spark plugs to get it primed!
RIght now I got a piece of $4000 junk!

dsv, welcome to the forum.

Give us a bit more info. Why were the head gaskets replaced? Did you do the work yourself?

Do you have no, or low, oil pressure? How do you know?

Tip: Low, or no, oil pressure must be resolved before the auto is driven ... in fact, the engine should not even be allowed to idle without oil pressure.

Thanks for the response. I have no oil pressure, I put a gauge in the sending unit port; but the signs of no oil pressure were obvious. I removed the filter and it was dry as a bone. I did prime the oil pump as I should have. I thought I might have installed the intermediate drive shaft incorrectly, but the Ford manual did not say that would cause the oil pump not to work. If it is not the relief valve then I am thinking the camshaft drive gear is not working; they talk about the drive shaft clicking in when inserted; I don't get that. Which means I would have to remove the timing chain cover off anyway. As is very common with this car, I had a blown head gasket and I did not work myself.

I tried, briefly, to find some images I took when doing the front cover gasket ... no luck ... guess they are still on a camera chip somewhere.

At this point your pump is probably very dry, you may want to "wet" it by back feeding some very clean oil thru the gauge port if it is accessible enough ... or rig up something at the oil filter area.

After that, remove the synchronizer assembly (Yeah, record where it is in rotation first), and lift the drive shaft. I can't remember what the cross-section shape of the bottom end of the rod is. But you should be able to make-up a long driver that will go down, passing by the cam, and insert into the oil pump. The idea is to dive the pump by hand or with a drill.

Back off the oil filter a round or two to help the priming process. Be sure to have drain pan in place.

... of course, it might just be easier and make more sense just to remove the oil pump from the front cover and inspect it. If it's bad, buy a new one. It's available on the after market complete with oil pressure valve kit (be sure you replace the pressure relief valve).

Pack the pump, whether new or just inspected, with Vaseline before installing.

Before installing pump, you could reinsert the oil pump driving shaft just to check and see if it comes low enough to couple up to the pump.

If you remove the pump, let me know and I will look up the torque values for the (5?) mounting bolts. (But I'm about to go on a little trip and will take a few days to get back to you on this).

GP, I was loosing coolant externally and probably internally and also had my oil pressure light pop on. I drive a 95 3.8 (180,000) and 2 months ago I replaced the front cover gasket. My oil pump was bolted to the front cover and and this made for easy removal once I had the front cover off. I cleaned it up, primed it full of vaseline and reattached it to the front cover prior to the re-install of the cover to the engine. I also replaced the sending unit (it's attached to the engine block) while the cover was off and have not had the pressure light come back and the van seems to run fine.
If I were just going to remove and inspect/replace the pump, I'd probably remove the serpentine belt along with the alternator and power steering pump just to have the elbow room from the top although if your good at working on your back, you should be able to get the pump off from under the car.
I haven't found working on this van to be enjoyable but you can get it done with the help of these guys on the forum.:2cents:

To update what I stated in my earlier post.......and as several posters on this site have proven......the front timing cover is a "in vehicle repair".
Since my posting, the repair instructions at autozone's website, and at alldatadiy have been revised......and they do not tell you to remove the engine.
That said.....and as the folks who have done this repair have stated (I have not done this repair), it is not an easy, or short job to do.

I hope that is true because I've pulled and tested the oil pump three times, compared it against a new one, tried priming the engine manually, flooding the engine with oil, and still no oil movement. So my last option is that my problem is a bad pressure relief valve or some other internal engine problem. But both Haynes and the Ford factory manual call for removal of the engine to remove the timing chain cover which allows access to the pressure relief valve. I think I will need to buy a reciprocating saw to facilitate this job!!

I think you missed seeing the pressure relief valve when you had the oil pump removed ... it shows (on my exploded view) to be inserted into the front cover and held in place by the pump itself. I would think a needle nose plier would allow you to pull it out ... unless its missing of course! ... that would cause zero oil pressure.

Would you mind pointing out the page and Ford manual pub number that describes the oil pressure valve. I have a shop manual for the '99 and have not found much about this subject.

Could be your pick up tube (oil pan) is stopped up. ???

There is no publication # listed in this book. It is just 1996 Windstar July 1995, Copyright 1995 Ford Motor Co.
I removed the oil pump from below. The pressure relief valve is located inside the timing cover about two inches above the oil pump mating surface so I could not have seen it. The new pump I bought comes with a new relief valve and a drawing showing this location.

First thing I did was to check and cleaned the oil pan and tube and screen. I compared the old pump to the new one and it looks perfect. I inspected the mounting surface on the bottom of the timing cover and it looked fine.


I have not taken the timing cover off yet, because I need to decide if I am willing and able to remove the whole engine myself if needed.

This is what the Ford manual says about the Oil PRessure Relief Valve. Pg. 03-01B-61

Removal
1. Alfter drilling a hole through pressure relief vlave plug, remove plug with a slide hammer or by prying.
2. REmove spring and pressure relief valve from bore.

Inspection
1. Thoroughly clean bore and valve to remove any chips.
2. Inspect for scoring or galling. Replace valve and/or pump and filter body (housing?).
3. Check clearance between valve and bore. THe valve should slip into bore without side play or binding.
4. Check springs for fatigue or collapse.

Installation
1. Lubricate valve with Ford motor oil. Small diameter end goes in first.
2. Position spring in bore.
3. Install a new plug. The plug can be tapped into bore using a plastic tipped hammer. Make sure plug is 0-0.25 mm (0-.010 inch) below machined surface.


I hope this is useful.

Yes, perfect! This is (verbally) what I see on the exploded parts view.

The reason, perhaps, you missed seeing the the pressure relief valve is due to the "plug". I forgot about this detail. I expect it could be plucked out with a screwdriver or narrow chisel.

I do not think you need to plan to remove the front cover if you can access this plug and relief valve ... even if you have to use a mirrow for sight. But then, I've never done this ... though I have removed the front cover and pump assembly (together) on my '99 (wouldn't wish this on my best enemy ... though I now could do it again quite easily!).

its not a good idea to cut the body or frame out of the way to make repairs,thats a unsafe procedure. its a unibody vehicle,meaning that ALL the structure is actually the frame.its take a very skilled trained professional to remove structure welded in parts to remove and re weld.
I have the same problem=no oil pressure after replacing lower and upper intake gaskets,found much black carbon buildup in upper intake ports,cleaned them out.all appears to be good on that repair,its now no oil pressure,dash lite is on,and motor knocking from no oil,i shut it off.
I am going to remove oil pump and inspect,clean,and fill with vaseline.while the pump is off, i am going to try and pour a strong cleaner in the hole where the pickup tube is once oil pump is off,thats inside the oil pan,hopefully to clean the screen this way without removing oil pan,drain plug out to let cleaner run out into drain pan. carefully using the cleaner-lacquer thinner,it cuts slimmy grud off fairly easy. we'll see.
My opinion , this whole deal of leaky intake gaskets and carbon buildup on an engine with about 80k miles is ridiculous,this design makes fords crappy.
I have been working repairing cars,trucks,just about anything for over 40 years,more so as a frame technician the last 15 years,this kind of failures are just silly.

Sorry you are having the problems. I think the comments about "cutting" and "saws" were just in fun and frustration ... expect no one was seriously planning to cut away framework.

Now that I have had a bit more experience, I can better describe the oil pressure valve. IT IS in the front cover and is itself covered by the oil pump. You will see it once the oil pump is removed ... but you will have to know what you are looking for. You can find the pressed-in plug (in the front cover) that is about 1/2" in diameter. I had a bit of trouble removing this plug ... but it will come out. Underneath there is a spring and a long "poppet" spool. Take note of which way this spool is oriented as you remove it.

Most aftermarkets will sell a oil pump complete with the pressure valve as loose parts. This it the only way I know of to buy it. Ford only sells the entire front cover complete with valve and oil pump.

Yes, i just didn't want someone to take that cutting frame serious,then post back what to do now,as some are learning and may consider a easy route.:headshake
Within the next few days, i will remove my oil pump for inspection,and try the flush out the pickup tube and screen threw the hole where oil pump mounts,i will post back with results,as the oil pump is an easier task to remove than the oil pan,i assume.Which with lost oil pressure the problem should be in the oil pump, oil pickup tube and screen,oil valve,or possibly the oil pump lost its prime.Which i will fill the pump with vaseline as i re-install it.
This motor ran fine,until one day steam started out the tail pipe.:banghead: Just thought to join in and help myself with others.

If the problem started immediately after the upper and lower intake work ... I would first go back there. "Steam started out the tailpipe ....?" Hmmm.

How about give us a time table of events: what repairs were made, why, by whom, and what all happened next?

... once the oil pump is removed, compressed air could be used to blow back into the pick-up tube. Less dangerous than using chemicals. But be careful with air also.

Steam out the tail pipe, i disassembled the upper and lower intakes,a started procedure to replace head gaskets,but found that the intake gaskets were leaking,they were not sealed,oily and grimmy. cleaned all the intakes ,carbon buildup in the upper intake ports. re-installed intakes with new gaskets.changed oil filter and oil,oil was not milky,it did need changing it was black. I did find that from a quick oil change station from before,tighten the oil filter so tight on that i had to drive a long screwdriver threw the filter to loosen it up for removal. those oil change stations are ridiculous. But, after all the repairs, i started the engine,oil dash lite was on,ran for a moment and lite never went off,shut off engine. waited a few minutes, started engine up again, still oil dash lite on, and engine is rattling from lack of oil,shut engine off.
My next step is what i explained above in my previous post.

... once the oil pump is removed, compressed air could be used to blow back into the pick-up tube. Less dangerous than using chemicals. But be careful with air also.
yes, thats my thought also,but alittle lacquer thinner down the hole will help dissolve and remove and sludge buildup off pickup screen,and run out drain plug hole . I don't think theres anything in there that the lacquer thinner will hurt,but it will clean it. "O" rings will swell from lacquer thinner ,but there is none. It should be a straight travel into the pickup tube threw into the screen ,out the drain hole.

Hmmm. So the "steam" was the first clue to something being wrong.

I wonder if the friendly team at the oil change service ... while overtorqueing the filter ... also upset the gaskets under the front cover, possibly even damaging the front cover ... causing coolant to go into the crankcase (which the PCV picks up) and also separating the oil pump from the pick-up tube. Kinda wild .... but who knows??

I normally refuse to let anyone else change my oil ... but if on a long trip, I have used Walmart Superstores and am happy with their oil change service ... they use torque wrenches on everything!

I totally agree walmart,i usally go there when i can't service my vehicle.
when i get to removing the oil pump,i will examine the whole area invovled from that crappy quick oil change place,but when i removed the intakes ,the gaskets were all oilly and gruddy,it showed they were not sealing and leaking. the motor has never had any leaks,oil or anti-freeze,so i don't think the front cover was leaking.When i drained the oil, after oil drained,there was some thick black tarry oil dripping out of drain hole,i let it drain for a couple hours,so this maybe a sign of screen partially plugged or oil pump gummy-ed up. its funny cause i usally change the oil on times. i wonder if the quick oil change station replaced the oil with old oil ? , or the carbon buildup worked its way into the oil pump and oil pan ?
Thanks for your replies.

Who knows what they used in your engine! I believe I would drop the pan for a look ... as well as remove the oil pump.

.... by the way, as my memory fails me, I am no longer sure if the pressure relief valve is "between" the oil pump and front cover (in a hole in the front cover), or if it is "between" the front cover (in a hole in the front cover) and the block.

I removed the pressure relief valve once just to look at it, but this was when I had the front cover off ... so it could have been either way (in my mind).

First i tried to remove the mounting bolts of the oil pump- removed oil filter, removed two of the bolts, i could see the other bolts,but no way of getting a good strong socket with extension on the other bolts,and they are super tight,but still the bracket of the A/C compressor is in the way. So, had to remove surpentine belt,alternator,power steering pump-which the pulley on the steering pump takes a special tool to get it off,which lucky for me i had this tool from over the years of my career,Fords pulleys are basically the same for many years.
Now, to remove the A/C compressor,which i think i can just slide it forward enough to get to bolts of the mounting bracket,this i will post back on. Soon as i get back on it.
This will be a slow, careful,quality repair at home over a few days or weeks.

If you had to remove the pulley from the pump, you must be working on a '98 or earlier. ?? The front cover changed a bit in '99, but I think what I've written about the oil pump and pressure relief valve still holds true. ??

When I need to detach and move an ac compressor a bit, I usually use some 48" long, 1/4" wide plastic tie wraps (Home Depot) and hang it, at its normal height, from the top of the radiator.

Yes its a 98 windstar, but with a 97 motor that i installed 4 years ago with 40k miles on it,it now has about 80k total.
to remove the A/C compressor completely ,then the A/Csystem would have to be drained,which is another process. i will hang the A/C compressor at all possible without taking A/C lines loose,and save that amount of work.Thats my next step.

Looked the oil pump up on Rockauto

1997 3.8L oil pump = SEALED POWER Part # 22443575
1999 3.8L oil pump = SEALED POWER Part # 22443575

If you click on "more info" they show a picture of the oil pump.

I looked at 2003, they don't list a oil pump, but 2002, 1999-1996 all list the same part number.
1995 lists a different part number.

Looks like they show the pressure valve as coming with the pump.
Don't know if that helps.......in short.....same pump for 12ounce (1999) and MYHELIGUY (1997 motor) as per Rockauto

Finally today, i got the oil pump removed. gee,quite a little work. Removing the bracket that mounts the a/c compressor is actually the motor mount also,had to remove the radiator fan unit also to get room for wrench movement.
After getting the oil pump off, as i was removing it, there was no oil running out, the pump was empty of oil, very little at all,even once i had oil pump off,it was empty ,so the pump must have lost its prime.the pump looks like new,no wear at all. I placed a wrench carefully on the pump drive shaft sticking out and made sure it was solid and not lose.it was solid.

Wonder how can a oil pump lose it prime ? anyone with ideas ? THANKS
Where is the pressure valve located ?

Isn't there a plugged hole in the oil pump mounting surface (on the front cover)?

The pressure relief valve must be in the front cover where its not visual .
couldn't find it.so, today, took and packed the oil pump full of vaseline and mounted it on engine,added the oil, started engine for only about one minute, no oil pressure,lite on dash is on ,and engine rattling from no oil,shut it off. took oil filter off and it was still the same amount of oil as i put in it when installed just before starting, the vaseline is alittle in the very top of filter.
i couldn't get anything down the oil pickup tube,before installing pump. but, i think its possibly the drive gear thats inside the timing cover(camshaft synchronizer), which will require engine removal is the problem. its been a very tight working area all around in there.Any ideas ?

Assuming you are working on a 3.8, (I've forgotten) you can remove the cam synchronizer (be sure to mark everything ... take photos...etc, etc ...or you will have to re-synch on your own). Along with the synchro, there should be a hex drive shaft on the bottom end ... that goes down to the oil pump. This shaft should come up with the synchro as you remove it. In fact, you should be able to see this shaft now that the oil pump is removed ...??

With a 2 foot long piece of hex stock the same size as the oil pump drive shaft ... you can drive the pump with an electric drill (It goes CCW).

I do not understand why you can't see the pressure relief valve. I posted photos of this ... but very long ago. I'm sure the photos have now expired.

Yep, the photo has expired ... but if you want to read the accompanying jabber, look on page #1 of:
.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=771924&highlight=synchronizer

This is an effort to show oil pump kit as sold by RockAuto:
.
.
http://i31.tinypic.com/28ves0k.jpg
.
The three parts at the bottom make up the oil pressure relief valve .. and are poked into a hole in the front cover.

Is it possible to bring back these photos ? it will be greatly appreciated.
Where in the world will i find a hex shaped 2 feet long rod ? thats proably metric also.
if i mark the synchronizer and on the front cover, the position, then remove synchronizer,put it back the same with aligning marks ?
Thanks

Yes, if you mark everything about the synchronizer before you remove it ... and never move the crankshaft during the whole procedure ... you should be just fine.

You don't have to have 2 foot stock hex stock ... that's just the way I did it. You could instead, use the existing pump shaft and drive it with a socket and socket extension tool. BTW, do you see the existing shaft?

Since you are saying there was no oil in your pump ... I am more worried about why you could not get "anything" down the pickup tube. ?? Nothing? I would be removing pan if necessary to resolve this question.

I don't think I kept the images of the front cover ... but why not visit the dealer for a look at new one. Is there any chance someone earlier messed with the front cover ... removed the Pressure relief valve? (Though not have a relief valve would NOT cause the pump to be dry. It would pump like crazy ... but directy back to the pan.)

... but why not visit the dealer for a look at new one.

OOPS! Wrong! I forgot the dealer only sells the front cover with oil pump attached ... looking at this will not get you much info.

Next step i will try is to remove the camshaft synchronizer and try to drive the oil pump with a drill(in reverse=ccw) by connecting to the shaft as you mention,this actually is an easier procedure than removing the oil pan . if the oil pump doesn't pump oil threw the engine,where i can see the oil squirting out the top of the rocker arm by looking in the oil cap filler hole in the vavle cover,then i will remove the oil pan.
Is there any kind of shear pins in this camshaft synchronizer ?
THANKS

What I would do is loosen the oil filter until the pump primes ... then you know you have oil flow up to that point. After that, I think you can assume the oil is flowing up thru the engine. But don't expect to get the delivery rate that the engine running will get.

I still am concerned with that pick-up tube.

http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_2103.htm Also search 2102 and 2001.
Most auto machine shops will sell these.
I think the strainer and pickup tube weren't cleaned properly by the mechanic. Most shops give at least 90 days so I would try to get it fixed free. He may charge you for a new pump.

Today i removed the camshaft synchronizer, visually i see nothing wrong with it.so, i checked online for the oil pump primer tool,thats the next step, is to hook-up this tool and see if the oil pump will prime and pump oil.
so, i must wait to receive this tool to continue on with what the problem is with no oil pressure.

Bought a oil pump at advance auto parts, melling brand, comes with the pressure valve,spring, and steel cap,the instructions are with this,and it shows that to replace the pressure valve you must remove the front cover,the cap is in the mounting engine side surface of the front cover,gee to remove the front cover you must remove the engine,i even tried to remove the water pump=no way theres not even clearance the get the water pump off the studs,hits the frame of vehicle.so, i'm hoping that the pressure valve is ok,and needs no replacement.
Tomorrow, i will install this new oil pump,packing it full with vaseline,and see if theres any oil pressure. i'll post back. Thanks

Unbelievable! That I don't remember it that way, that is. There ain't nothing better than getting old ... but it has its drawbacks.

The water pump and front cover can be removed with engine in place ... not easy ... (I had almost as soon remove the engine). Many have done it ... you should find something on this by seaching.