Oil

Which is better synthetic oil or regular oil?? I do lots of city driving.

Biggest advantage to synthetic oil is the milage. Most can be run 10,000mi.

any other advantages?? does it preform better the regular, protect any better?

http://motor-oil-bible.com/mob-2-2-04.pdf
This may help you.

Yes, go synthetic.

Mobil 1 5w30
Any Filter other than Fram!

Change oil every 8000miles.

change oil filter every 4000miles.

I actually feel more power running synthetic oil in my very gutless daily driver, plus I know that it will last longer.

synthetic oil does not equal more power.

It is just a mental thing.

actually synthetic oil reduces wear better than regular. less friction = more power
unfortunately, it doesnt add enough power to notice. you might get 1 extra hp out of it. another advantage to synthetic is it doesnt break down as quickly as regular oil does from high heat. that is why you can go longer between oil changes.

whats wrong with fram?

Actually my daily driver is a Mercury Topaz, diesel, with somewhere around 50hp from the factory... and the car is kinda heavy for the motor. So I can notice the power difference, with Synthetic oil... I'm able to pull higher gears up most hills than before, and the oil is the only difference.

Fram Filters are the cheapest made, with the poorest filter material, so BlazerLT is right there... However they make the filters for most chain stores, that have their own brand too.

Here is a comparo of some popular oil filters.
http://motor-oil-bible.com/mob-2-2-04.pdf

Nice link, reading now.

Change oil every 8,000 miles and a filter every 4,000?Doesn't make sense to me.Every 3,000 is a good rule of thumb for me.

Nope , you see, you are still stuck in the old 3000mile bullshit brainwash routine set in the 60s.

We have vehicles that are 200% more efficient with cleaner gas and 400% better oil than the 60s.

Why do you think you need the same change interval?

I don't just spout this stuff for no reason, it is based on 1000s of hours of my own personal research.

http://motor-oil-bible.com/mob-2-2-04.pdf

well weather you want to change your oil every 3000 miles or every 8000 really doesnt make to big of a difference other then you spending more on oil i'm sure?? But i mean 20 bucks per oil change and i change mine around every 3000 miles.. takes me a while to get up to 3000 miles.

theres some great info goin around.....
LT.......i read that oil bible and am still unshure about the time/millage interval for regular oil....
they talk mostly about synthetic and its benefits but no as much about the standard oil.
maybe im missing it.....im thinking ill push the standard oil to about 5000 miles using a good quality oil and the filter at 4k...but thats me...
what do you guys think?
i wont be goin to synth oil....iv got 133k on the 4.3 and dont wanna risk oil leaks :(

I read the bible too.That should give you even more reason to change at a lower milelage,unless you use synth.8000 mile would be plain stupid for standard oil.When you burn gas,that includes todays chemical bound,you get carbon.Carbon is dirt.Even the bible stated that filters don't get it all.The 4000 mile filter change,thats not to bright either.A clean filter in dirty oil.So unless you burn natural gas,I still say 3000 mile.My investment is worth keeping clean.:)

Whatever you do keep it consistant. Use one brand a weight of oil (i recomend Shell Rotella) throughout the engines life. Changing viscosities and compositions causes the engine to develop new wear patterns every time you change. This will lead to premature loss of oil pressure, excessive cam wear, and bearing failure. Of course this may only add a few thousand miles to the life of your engine. Also, if you can afford it change at 3000mi. It cant hurt to go under, but it most definately will hurt to go past the the life of the oil.

I have had several vehicals over 200,000mi. I have a work truck that has over 300,000mi and is just now starting to loose oil pressure. The only thing major I've done to it is replace the rear main seal and a broken timing chain. Transmission and rearend is a different story. I run her hard.

But we were talking about synthetic.

Anyone changing synthetic out at 3000miles is a moron.

well i guess ill be doing standard oil and filter changes at 3k mile intervals......but not switching to synth at 133k dont wanna ruin my new driveway.
thanks for the info all

I wasn't talking about changing synthetic at 3000.Sorry if you misunderstood BlazerLT.Even if you run a synthetic,the oil still gets dirty.Thats why I can't bring myself to spend 5 bucks a quart on it.

I wasn't talking about changing synthetic at 3000.Sorry if you misunderstood BlazerLT.Even if you run a synthetic,the oil still gets dirty.Thats why I can't bring myself to spend 5 bucks a quart on it.

*Sigh*

I am telling you that you don't have to change your conventional oil until 5000miles. Don't dump conventional after 3000 miles!

The oil still has a lot of life in it and all you are doing is polluting for no reason.

The american oil industry just has you brainwashed you into thinking that 300miles crap is still true. They are laughing all the way to the bank with everyone's ignorance.

And don't pull the "It's not that much price difference" stuff because it is not about that. It is about people polluting the environment.

Sorry about the frustration, but I just get tired of people preaching that the 3000mile interval is the way to go when the real interval for conventional oils is 5000-6000 miles.

Heres the deal,BlazerLT.I change my oil & filter every 3000 or 3 months.Usually the 3 month rule applies cause I don't get alot of milelage.The reason is my work is only a couple miles down the road.I notice that the oil gets dirty in that short of time.You go to 8000 mile!I'd like to see you pull your dipstick!BLACK for sure.But hey thats how you do it,I don't.A clean engine is a happy engine.:)

Did you even read the oil Bible thing up there?

Stop trying to say that I am ruining my engine with 5000-6000 miles change intervals.

You see, your black=dirty anaogy right off the bat tells me you know nothing about engine lubrication and are only spouting back what you local Jiffy Lube has told you to think.

Read the PDF oil bible book above and learn something, and stop spitting back what the oil industry has been brainwashing you with for 20 years.

Explain this, I can take the exact same oil I put it into my diesel truck and the oil will be black in 100-250 miles.

It's now black, should I change it now?

You see, oil lubrication quality has NOTHING to do with the color so the first thing you need to learn is to cast that myth aside and do some research.

Again, read the Oil Bible and you will learn so much and you won't believe the crap you have been brainwashed to think is all a complete lie.

Again read it and learn and don't preach lubrication and oil quality to a person that already has done 100s of hours of research and testing already.

Who's preaching here?I believe you are.I would like to know how you went from 8000 mile oil change to 5000-6000 mile?I wont even mention the stupid 4000 mile oil filter change,because hey you know what your talking about.So it's safe to say that you don't even have a clue what your talking about.Again I say carbon=dirt.Diesels usually have bigger and sometimes mulitable filters because they burn real dirty.I have read the oil bible there preacher and no I don't use jiffylube.As I said before,my investment is worth keeping clean.Just because your like a women and do nothing more that put gas in it and run doesn't make the rest of us wrong.This is how I do it and thats how you do it.Enough said.

what synthetic oil and filter would you recommend??

Who's preaching here?I believe you are.I would like to know how you went from 8000 mile oil change to 5000-6000 mile?

8000mile = Synthetic
5000-600miles = Conventional Oil

I wont even mention the stupid 4000 mile oil filter change,because hey you know what your talking about.So it's safe to say that you don't even have a clue what your talking about.Again I say carbon=dirt.Diesels usually have bigger and sometimes mulitable filters because they burn real dirty.

Ya, don't mention it because you have no idea what you are talking about. The weak link in the lubrication system is the filter which plug up before the oil loses all its active additive. Swap another filter on half way and you can continue with no problems.

You shear ignorance about lubrication and oil properties leads me to believe that you are just a teenager with a lack of knowledge on a subject but yet tries to keep on arguing just so he looks like he isn't losing so badly.

Diesels don't burn dirty, they burn differently and guess what, oil in a bi-filter bypass filtration system is blacker than tar after 500miles. So in your mind........

Duh, da oil is black, duh, I need to change da oil now cause da oil is dirty daaaaa....

Give yourself a break and shut up about what you don't know. You are just making yourself look like a idiot.

I have read the oil bible there preacher and no I don't use jiffylube.As I said before,my investment is worth keeping clean.Just because your like a women and do nothing more that put gas in it and run doesn't make the rest of us wrong.This is how I do it and thats how you do it.Enough said.

First of all brainwave, it you are going to call me a woman, at least use proper grammer.

It is "you're", not "your". Kthx.....go back to english class.

Yea, look at all the help I dispense to people on these forums. How can you say all I do is "do nothing more that put gas in it and run" bullshit.

How many times have I helped people?
How many times have I been wrong?

Again, just another pointless arguement from an ignorant consumer with a paranoia condition that "if I don't change my oil every 3000miles my engine is going to get all bad and dirty like the diesel dirty engine oil"

Give me a break and don't try to prove me wrong because I will just school you into looking like a retard.

Better yet, before you come back and throw some aimless insults back at me because you are frustrated, how about learning something about oil here:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

what synthetic oil and filter would you recommend??

I would recommend a fill of 5w30 Mobil 1 Synthetic and a standard AC Delco Oil Filter.

Change the filter out at 4000miles and continue on to 8000miles in perfect safety and lubrication.

Don't listen to the ignorant people and their pointless 3000miles arguement.

would any other filter work just as well?

I am using regular oil right now but am going to switch to synthetic which shouldnt be a problem. I use to change the regular oil at 4000 miles or a little after, and my engine runs perfect :D

Stay completely away from FRAM filters. They are junk and have a horrible anti-drainback valve.

I recommend Ac Delco filters for a cheap price and an excellent filter.

Don't change synthetic oil at 4000 miles. Change at 6000-7000 miles minimum.

If you are going to change at 4000miles, stick to conventioanl. Synthetic is made for longer drain intervals and if you don't do it, what is the point of using it in the first place.

no no i was just saying when using conventional oil I use to change that at 4000 miles not synthetic. :D

what about K&N, quaker state, pennz oil filers? or how ever you spell it :p

K&N oil filters are excellent. Also others to consider are WIX, and purolator or even a Mobil 1 filter.

Just stay away from FRAM.

alright.. sound good i am just going with filters I can run to the store to get and I know they have :D

Thanks for the info as always :)

Hold on, how many miles do you have on your engine?

Which is better synthetic oil or regular oil?? I do lots of city driving.

If you change your oil and filter every 3-4K miles, it really doesn't matter what type (dino/synth) of oil you use.

And with the quasi-synthetic stuff Castrol pawns off as being a "fully synthetic oil" the line between petro based and pure synthetic based oils has become a bit blurred. Mobil1 is the only readily available, true synthetic oil (I believe AMZOIL is a pure synthetic but you've gotta get it from a distributor).

IMHO, and some others, the most important aspect of oil is the API Service Code label on the the bottle. As long as the oil is the correct viscosity and meets or exceeds the API Service specifications your car requires you'll be fine; I know, it's hard to believe but, as Bobwa Wawa says, "It's twue, it's twue". There's a lot of advertising hype that goes into marketing oil to try and boost/justify the asking price. Sooo... you can pay 88 cents a quart for Wal-Mart Tech2000 10W30 or $4.97 for Mobil1 10W30.... but, as heretical as it sounds, as long as they have the same API Service code they will both provide the same level of protection for your car. It's really a personal choice... what's it gonna take (money-wise) for your peace of mind.

Will synthetic oil give you better gas mileage? Maybe, but not that you're gonna notice... and it certainly will not be a great enough increase to offset the cost of synthetic oil. The greatest advantage of synthetic oil is its ability to flow easier at lower, ambient tempuratures and this becomes important on cold engine starts; the oil flows quicker and begins lubricating and protecting the engine sooner.

I used to use Mobil1 until the cost became prohibitive and so I switched back to dino oil. Then I found Wal-Mart selling their brand (Tech2000) of synthetic oil for $2.75/qt and a synthetic blend for $1.88/qt.... I could live with the price and I've stocked my garage with it.

Equally, if not more important, is the oil filter you use. Avoid FRAM filters like the plague; they used to be good but now are crap. Equally suspect are the no-name filters installed by Jiffy Lube and shops of like ilk. Purolator makes much better filters and the "PureOne" line of filters are excellent and highly rated. NAPA Gold/WIX are also good filters.

Mike

50k miles

First of all, don't take me as being rude, but I do have to correct some of your general statements.

If you change your oil and filter every 3-4K miles, it really doesn't matter what type (dino/synth) of oil you use.

Yes it does, if you are changing synthetic oil every 3000-4000 miles of course synthetic will be expensive and a huge waste of good oil. The thing is, you don't change synthetic that often. Synthetic's properties do not breakdown like the conventional oil.

And with the quasi-synthetic stuff Castrol pawns off as being a "fully synthetic oil" the line between petro based and pure synthetic based oils has become a bit blurred. Mobil1 is the only readily available, true synthetic oil (I believe AMZOIL is a pure synthetic but you've gotta get it from a distributor).

Yes, you are right, some synthetics such as Castrol Syntec are not as synthetic as Amsoil or Mobil 1. Castrol Syntec's Base Stock is a hydrocracked conventional oil and they call is synthetic because it is completely different than the conventional base stock it is derived from.

Mobil 1 and Amsoil are made up of basestocks that were made from chemicals and no conventioanl oil was used in the process. The chemical used in true synthetic basestocks are called polyalphaolefin (PAO) and are the best in the business.

IMHO, and some others, the most important aspect of oil is the API Service Code label on the the bottle. As long as the oil is the correct viscosity and meets or exceeds the API Service specifications your car requires you'll be fine; I know, it's hard to believe but, as Bobwa Wawa says, "It's twue, it's twue". There's a lot of advertising hype that goes into marketing oil to try and boost/justify the asking price.

Nah, you see right there, you are putting forth an opinion and not a factual claim. You are more or less saying that all oils are the same if the grade is met and this is completely untrue.

The API standard is the "bottom of the barrel" requirements for an engine oil to meet so it can be classified.

Additive packages are different in all oils and that is what makes them different, better or worse.

Sooo... you can pay 88 cents a quart for Wal-Mart Tech2000 10W30 or $4.97 for Mobil1 10W30.... but, as heretical as it sounds, as long as they have the same API Service code they will both provide the same level of protection for your car. It's really a personal choice... what's it gonna take (money-wise) for your peace of mind.

Again, this is your opinion and is not even close to the truth. If the oil has the same API rating, it is only meeting the "basic" requirements for that standard.

Travel here and tell me all oil is the same.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=11;DaysPrune=1000

Different oils have different additive packages and different cleaning and lubricational properties.

Your Tech2000 has been tested to have a poor additive package and not really the greatest overall protection on the market and that is why it is cheaper.

If you think your Tech2000 is just the same as Castrol GTX, you have another thing coming.

I am not being rude to you, I am just making you aware of the broad general statements you are making and how they can completely steer people in the wrong way if they knew nothing about motor oils.

Will synthetic oil give you better gas mileage? Maybe, but not that you're gonna notice... and it certainly will not be a great enough increase to offset the cost of synthetic oil. The greatest advantage of synthetic oil is its ability to flow easier at lower, ambient tempuratures and this becomes important on cold engine starts; the oil flows quicker and begins lubricating and protecting the engine sooner.

Will you get better fuel economy? Yes, I gained 2mpg when I switched to synthetic. No bullshit, this is calculated over six 20 gallon tank fulls over the same road and conditions.

You are completely correct about the better flow characteristics in colder conditions. Conventional oils have to use low temperature flow additives to make the oil flow better in the cold and they wear out after a while. Also, conventioanl oil has WAX, yes WAX and this leads to the gelling of oil in really cold temperatures.

Synthetic has not wax whatsoever and is practically suited for colder climates as a basestock. They actually have to make it thicker for 10w30 or 15w40 grades.

I used to use Mobil1 until the cost became prohibitive and so I switched back to dino oil. Then I found Wal-Mart selling their brand (Tech2000) of synthetic oil for $2.75/qt and a synthetic blend for $1.88/qt.... I could live with the price and I've stocked my garage with it.

If you were changing synthetic every 3000-4000miles, OF COURSE it would be more expensive. But you see, you are supposed to use longer oil change intervals that offset the difference in cost. YOU "DON'T"CHANGE SYNTHETIC EVERY 4000MILES

Equally, if not more important, is the oil filter you use. Avoid FRAM filters like the plague; they used to be good but now are crap. Equally suspect are the no-name filters installed by Jiffy Lube and shops of like ilk. Purolator makes much better filters and the "PureOne" line of filters are excellent and highly rated. NAPA Gold/WIX are also good filters.

You hit the nail on the head here. Also note AC Delco filters and K&N filters are excellent choices also.

DO NOT BUY SHIT FRAM FILTERS. You go cheap, don't come here and complain when you get cold start knock and a noisy valve train.

50k miles

Ok, you are going to have to do an engine flush.

You do this just before you change your oil.

Ok, ready?

Go buy your oil and two oil filters. Yes, two.

Buy one good one, and one crappy fram filter.

Buy a bottle of engine flush. Degunk or pennzoil will do, buy the one with the most volume. 1 quart is close to the size.

Ok, ready to do the flush and the oil change?

DON'T REMOVE THE OIL, LEAVE THE OIL PAN PLUG IN!

Ok, remove your oil filter ONLY, discard and put on the cheap fram oil filter. You will have lost maybe a quart of oil in doing this. This is good.

Pour the bottle of engine flush into the oil fill tube, put the cap back on the oil fill tube and start up the engine and IDLE it for 30 minutes.

I AM COMPLETELY SERIOUS ABOUT THE IDLE THING! DO NOT BE AN IDIOTIC AND IMPATIENT MORON AND REV THE ENGINE WITH THE FLUSH IN THE OIL. THE FLUSH IS MEANT TO THIN THE OIL AND IT DISSOLVES THE ENGINE OIL SLUDGE ALL IN YOUR ENGINE.

IF YOU DO, YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE AND DON'T COME WHINING BACK AT ME BECAUSE YOU COULDN'T FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS.

The new filter is there to catch the amazing amount of crap the engine flush will dissolve and remove it from the oil. After 30 minutes has past, shut down the engine, remove and discard the crap oil filter.

Remove the oil pan plug and allow the engine oil to drain. Leave the filter off and the plug out for 30 minutes so all the conventional oil is allowed to drain. Don't rush this job, DO IT RIGHT! Hell, while it is draining, go around and lube the hinges on your truck or maybe lube the front end a bit.

Ok, after 30 minutes has past, install the good quality oil filter (AC Delco/K&N/WIX/Mobil1) and fill up your oil. DON'T OVERFILL! Also, check your oil level on even ground.

There you go, you have internally cleaned most of the conventioanl sludge out of your engine and have replaced your oil with synthetics.

You are now good for 8000miles of driving when you replace the oil filter at 4000 miles and top the engine oil up with what you lost changing the filter.

Happy driving! :)

alrighty and every will work fine with no leaks correct?

If you have zero leaks now, you should have zero leaks after.

wicked, i'll take your advice and let you know this weekend how it goes :D

Have fun!

All this care means nothing if you don't enjoy yourself!

How many times have I helped people?
How many times have I been wrong?
hahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!I seen you try and I mean try to make yourself look like some god!!!!!!!!Don't preach grammer when you can't spell either.hahahaha!!Sorry I'm not a dumb teenager either.I work on cars everyday.So again YOU KNOW NOTHING.Would it make you feel better if I would agree with you?Thats what you have to do with a bitch like yourself.hahahahahahaha!!!! I never said you were wrong.I just don't agree.Your making a big deal of nothing.Get over it.

How many times have I helped people?
How many times have I been wrong?
hahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!I seen you try and I mean try to make yourself look like some god!!!!!!!!Don't preach grammer when you can't spell either.hahahaha!!Sorry I'm not a dumb teenager either.I work on cars everyday.So again YOU KNOW NOTHING.Would it make you feel better if I would agree with you?Thats what you have to do with a bitch like yourself.hahahahahahaha!!!! I never said you were wrong.I just don't agree.Your making a big deal of nothing.Get over it.

Spoken like a true immature kid. I make myself look like a god? Do you have some sort of paranoid inferiority complex or something?

How does helping people make me imply I am a god. Grow up and I believe mommy is calling you to have a bath.

Just look at what you are typing

blahblah hahahahahahahaha! blahblahblah hahahahaah! blahblahblah hahahahahaha!

you like laughing at your own stupid remarks?

What, are you retarded or something?

Get over it tard!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Get over it tard!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Look everyone, we have exclamation boy here.

His goal is to see how many exclamation marks he can put behind his pointless statements.

Like, omg dude, like you are so, like a tard bro, like, man, like I can't like take it when people like say I am wrong like so I like start to like post aimless like shit so I can like look like a total like teenager like omg!

Look everyone, we have exclamation boy here.

His goal is to see how many exclamation marks he can put behind his pointless statements.

Like, omg dude, like you are so, like a tard bro, like, man, like I can't like take it when people like say I am wrong like so I like start to like post aimless like shit so I can like look like a total like teenager like omg!
Like whoa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!What do you call this pointless shit then?????????????????????????????I think we found our teenage bitch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :banghead:

Thanks for proving my point.

You done with this stupid shit now?

I believe you asked yourself a question.

Now answer yourself......;)

Good:)

[QUOTE=BlazerLT]First of all, don't take me as being rude, but I do have to correct some of your general statements.



Yes it does, if you are changing synthetic oil every 3000-4000 miles of course synthetic will be expensive and a huge waste of good oil. The thing is, you don't change synthetic that often. Synthetic's properties do not breakdown like the conventional oil.

Nah, you see right there, you are putting forth an opinion and not a factual claim. You are more or less saying that all oils are the same if the grade is met and this is completely untrue.

The API standard is the "bottom of the barrel" requirements for an engine oil to meet so it can be classified.

Additive packages are different in all oils and that is what makes them different, better or worse.

Again, this is your opinion and is not even close to the truth. If the oil has the same API rating, it is only meeting the "basic" requirements for that standard.

Travel here and tell me all oil is the same.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=11;DaysPrune=1000

Different oils have different additive packages and different cleaning and lubricational properties.

Your Tech2000 has been tested to have a poor additive package and not really the greatest overall protection on the market and that is why it is cheaper.

If you think your Tech2000 is just the same as Castrol GTX, you have another thing coming.

I am not being rude to you, I am just making you aware of the broad general statements you are making and how they can completely steer people in the wrong way if they knew nothing about motor oils.

Will you get better fuel economy? Yes, I gained 2mpg when I switched to synthetic. No bullshit, this is calculated over six 20 gallon tank fulls over the same road and conditions.

You are completely correct about the better flow characteristics in colder conditions. Conventional oils have to use low temperature flow additives to make the oil flow better in the cold and they wear out after a while. Also, conventioanl oil has WAX, yes WAX and this leads to the gelling of oil in really cold temperatures.

Synthetic has not wax whatsoever and is practically suited for colder climates as a basestock. They actually have to make it thicker for 10w30 or 15w40 grades.

If you were changing synthetic every 3000-4000miles, OF COURSE it would be more expensive. But you see, you are supposed to use longer oil change intervals that offset the difference in cost. YOU "DON'T"CHANGE SYNTHETIC EVERY 4000MILES



Blazer,

Okay...I've been on this board now for maybe a couple of weeks. I am a member of a few other automotive interest boards and each one of them has a guy just like you; an "expert" in everything automotive and a man placed on this earth to bring guys like me out of the automotive darkness and into the light of enlightenment. Please, I'm not trying to be rude here or anything, but you have an inate ability to, how shall we say, rub folks the wrong way. With respect to this oil stuff, if you want to split hairs and argue theories and chemistry fine, but the mainstream ideas expressed about oil are relatively conservative and therefore fairly*SAFE*. Yes, a synthetic oil will probably last a lot longer than a dino oil and if you want to get into a cost analysis benefit have at it. If all of this extended drain and alternate filter changes are so wonderful, why haven't the automakers jumped on this bandwagon? Cars have become so maintenance free these days you'd think the last vestige of the "old days" would be laid to rest: that of the 3K or 7.5K oil and filter changes. Could it be that maybe the "Big Three", with all their immense research and engineering might, don't agree with your theories? If one oil is so much better than another, don't you think the automakers would make specific recommendations (which they do apparently on some high end autos) Or is this a "conspiracy" of some sort purpatrated on the driving public by the automakers? If someone was to adopt your schedule for oil and filter changes on a vehicle under warranty (factory or extended) they would void it..... hmmm. So what kind of research have you done besides read stuff posted on the internet? Thousands of hours.... doing what?

I have gone to one of "your" links about oil (the "Oil Bible") and scanned the text. What I was looking for specifically were the credentials of the person who wrote this piece.... maybe I missed it, a good chance of that, but I couldn't find any.... you'd think they'd be right up front so people reading this diatribe would know before they got into it that it isn't some load of fiction. What I found insted where about 17 pages of how I could make money by selling this piece or using it in conjunction with a website/forum...I was even offered the chance to purchase a CD copy of this work.....very interesting. But nowhere could I find the name of the individual who wrote it or what their background is. You claim to have thousands of hours of research into this oil thing; so are you a petroleum engineer? Do you work for an automotive research company or one of the big petroleum companies? You speak as if you are some authority on the subject (and apparently many other subjects as you are all over this forum) but I have yet to see you put forward any credentials as far as expertise.

The internet is a wonderful place to get information of all kinds...problem is, any hack who has command of the English language can post anything they wish and claim it as true. If you're gonna spout all this "expertise" to us mere peons, then you better start puttin' your money where your mouth is credential-wise...otherwise folks might begin to think your some guy with no life and a lot of hot air.......

Blazer,

Okay...I've been on this board now for maybe a couple of weeks. I am a member of a few other automotive interest boards and each one of them has a guy just like you; an "expert" in everything automotive and a man placed on this earth to bring guys like me out of the automotive darkness and into the light of enlightenment. Please, I'm not trying to be rude here or anything, but you have an inate ability to, how shall we say, rub folks the wrong way.

I'm sorry if my differing and educated opinion "offends" you but just buck it up and realise that what I am saying is true. Better yet, PROVE that I am wrong. I instead of arguing about credentials and your differing opinion, I challenge you to put your opinion to the test and prove that I am wrong about synthetic oils.

With respect to this oil stuff, if you want to split hairs and argue theories and chemistry fine, but the mainstream ideas expressed about oil are relatively conservative and therefore fairly*SAFE*. Yes, a synthetic oil will probably last a lot longer than a dino oil and if you want to get into a cost analysis benefit have at it. If all of this extended drain and alternate filter changes are so wonderful, why haven't the automakers jumped on this bandwagon? Cars have become so maintenance free these days you'd think the last vestige of the "old days" would be laid to rest: that of the 3K or 7.5K oil and filter changes. Could it be that maybe the "Big Three", with all their immense research and engineering might, don't agree with your theories?

Exactly, you don't want to split hairs because you know I am right. You can't argue against the chemical truth.

Obviously you haven't been doing you reading have you because soon cars will come with a factory fill of synthetic that will last over 50,000+miles on one change. This is not a rumour, it is fact. Do some searching on it.

If you go look at your vehicle's owner's manual, you will see that oil change intervals of 3000 miles is for SEVERE service like towing, 100% stop and go traffic etc.. and I have a friend here that has a 1992 Toyota 4Runner sitting right outside that has a sticker from the factory that says he can go 9000miles to one conventional oil change fill. Hmmmm.... That throws your manufacturer theory out the window. I can get a picture if you want.

The only people touting the 3000miles oil change interval is the oil industry and the oil change companys that pray upon the unknowing consumer. I just had my synthetic oil change that cost me US$50 at a local Mr.Lube in the winter time 8-9 months ago (too cold to do it myself at -30f) and I jokingly asked the guy when I should change the synthetic oil, he looked at me and said 3000miles. I laughed in his face and told him that he lost a customer because I know he was lying to get me back sooner. He gave me an uneasy "oh oh, they guy knows better" look and walked back to his office. The other guys in the shop didn't sa a word when I asked them if they would change synthetic every 3000 miles and one even shook his head no. He was fired the next day.

If one oil is so much better than another, don't you think the automakers would make specific recommendations (which they do apparently on some high end autos) Or is this a "conspiracy" of some sort purpatrated on the driving public by the automakers? If someone was to adopt your schedule for oil and filter changes on a vehicle under warranty (factory or extended) they would void it..... hmmm. So what kind of research have you done besides read stuff posted on the internet? Thousands of hours.... doing what?

You see, the engine manufacturers don't specify the oil change interval, the oil industry does.

I'll throw the question right back in your face, what information do you have to discredit what I am saying? Show me some information instead of attacking my intelligence.

I have gone to one of "your" links about oil (the "Oil Bible") and scanned the text. What I was looking for specifically were the credentials of the person who wrote this piece.... maybe I missed it, a good chance of that, but I couldn't find any.... you'd think they'd be right up front so people reading this diatribe would know before they got into it that it isn't some load of fiction. What I found insted where about 17 pages of how I could make money by selling this piece or using it in conjunction with a website/forum...I was even offered the chance to purchase a CD copy of this work.....very interesting. But nowhere could I find the name of the individual who wrote it or what their background is. You claim to have thousands of hours of research into this oil thing; so are you a petroleum engineer? Do you work for an automotive research company or one of the big petroleum companies? You speak as if you are some authority on the subject (and apparently many other subjects as you are all over this forum) but I have yet to see you put forward any credentials as far as expertise.

So this is you arguement? It is all a lie right? All 150+ pages was a lie? Every single morsel of information is a straight out in your face lie right? So you are one of these people that have to have a petroleum engineer talk to you on the phone to say that everything is ok and all is right so you will believe it? WAKE UP!!!!

Face it, you "SCANNED" it and that's all, you disregarded the information, plugged your ears and stuck your head in the sand so you didn't have to realise that what you are saying about oil change intervals is garbage.

And don't attack my knowledge about chemistry because yes, I do hold a chemical engineering degree so don't even start on my educational requirements.

The internet is a wonderful place to get information of all kinds...problem is, any hack who has command of the English language can post anything they wish and claim it as true. If you're gonna spout all this "expertise" to us mere peons, then you better start puttin' your money where your mouth is credential-wise...otherwise folks might begin to think your some guy with no life and a lot of hot air.......

So you want more information with actual chemical results from chemical labs?

How about checking this site for information including petroleum engineers and mechanics:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php

Virgin Sample Oil Analysis:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=11

Used oil Analysis:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=3

Better yet, find me some information again that discredits what I am saying instead of just stating nothing and attacking my educational and ethical integrity.

You see, that is what desperate people do what they don't have a leg to stand on.

holy crap all this quarrelling for nothing. BlazerLT has provided me with nothing but the right answers so far. If he says something its not just for the hell of it.. its more the likely true.. so rather then argue just listen, or provide more information :D

Thanks bro, I just try to help everyone make an educated and cost effective choice that will have their trucks running at top top shape and low maintenance costs overall.

I do this for your guys. If I didn't I wouldn't even be posting on forums.

Another question. I went to the store to price out Mobil 1 synthetic. But they have 3 different kinds. One is new vehicle synthetic, one was high mileage. Can't remember what the other one was. Which one should I go for?? My 98 S10 has 55 000 miles. Thanks

Tell us the vaieties and then we will select which one.

the new vehicle synthetic is 0w-30, dont go with that weight. go with 10w-40 or 10w-30 or even 5w-30 for warmer climates.

0w30 is perfectly fine in vehicles.

You don't change to synthetic until 10,000 miles anyways so the rings can seat properly.