Oil

ok from the most i can remember there are the following types i can buy:

Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-50

Right now before I change to synthetic I use 5W-30

You are a Canuck! Cheers!

Don't use any of them, you are Edmonton, you need to best possible cold weather protection available.

Listen to what I use and it is the better than Mobil 1 and guess what, it is full synthetic and is CDN$3.64 per liter.

Go to your local Esso Bulk distribution center and order a case of Esso XD-3 Full Synthetic Motor oil.

It is Mobil 1 0w30 in a Esso bottle and is half the price.

So cheap and awesome protection for the money.

Trust me, I have done 50 hours research on their oil.

hrmm esso has a distribution center?? haha guess i have to go on a look for it :p i'll try it out for sure!

Yip, you have one there. Just ask your local Esso station where the local Esso Depot is.

Here is the information on the XD-3:

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/IOCAENCVLESEsso_Xd-3_extra.pdf

I just ordered two cases today.

If you buy Mobil 1 , you are only wasting money.

Here is the distribution centers in your area.

http://www.esso.ca/Canada-English/Files/Products_Lubes/ImperialOilLubesDistributors-Alberta.pdf

how much does a case cost?

12 One liter bottle Case = CDN$43.68 + Tax
4 Four liter jug case = CDN$58.24 + Tax

Mobil 1 12 : 1 Liter Bottles: CDN$93.48+Tax
Mobil 1 4 : 4 Liter Jugs: CDN$132 + Tax

Do the math and see all the money you will be saving.

That is a big price difference. Now with this Esso XD-3 are there different types like mobil one have 0W-30 and so on.. If so which type is best for me?

0w30 is absolutely PERFECT for you.

Can't get a better grade of oil for your colder condition.

It is what I use in Sudbury, Ontario.

and its wicked in the summer as well when it gets "hot" out? haha

you betcha, you see, at 100c it is still a 30 weight.

5w30
0w30

The same oil at 100c but the 0w30 is thinner when really cold.

0w30 can be used safely year around.

Awesome thanks for the info!

Your welcome, go get some, you will great fuel economy in the winter and summer.

Oh, btw, perform an engine flush first before you go to the synthetic to clear out the conventional sludge.

yup I will, I remember all the instructions you have gave me a while ago. and will follow them as well :)

*Taps fingers together like Mr.Burns*

excellent.......

0w-30 Is Designed For The Tighter Bearing Clearances Of New Engines. Some High Performance And Exotic Motor Require It And Nothing Else Otherwise There Warranty Is Voided. Yes You Can Use It In A Looser Tolerance Motor But Oil Pressure Will Be Affected.

Sorry bro, you have it all wrong.

The 0 in this case is the pumpability rating for the oil and a set scientific temperature of I think -25c.

The lower the number, the better it will flow at lower temperatures.

At 100c it is a 30 weight just like 5w30, 10w30, 15w30, 20w30 etc.

You get the point.

you are right. if you want to get technical it is the viscosity of oil at a set temperature. i am not arguing that. so sorry bro to you. i am arguing that newer tighter clearance engines need 0w-30 (thinner, easier to flow oil) to be able to get into the tighter clearanced motors of today. if you use a thicker oil (regaurdless of temp) it will raise your oil pressure. if you use a thinner oil it will lower your oil pressure. this is assuming you are using the same motor. put 80-90 weight in your auto and see what happens to your oil pressure (j/k i dont recommend you try this), but if you did your oil pressure would skyrocket at all temps. i have seen it so bad it actually expands the oil filter from the high pressure.

If you switch to a synthetic oil after around 6000 miles, you will experience leaks. The best time to change to a synthetic is on the very first oil change on the truck.

never heard of that. why do you say that? i need scientific reasoning to support that. lol

to what I hear it does not matter get the regular oil if you change it every 3000 miles get the synthetic if you dont the synthetic just lasts longer thats it I still buy regular oil for my car because I change it every 3000 miles

lasting longer is only 1 of is benefits. to sum it up without being technical, it mainly reduces wear as compared to regular oil. purchase synthetic and change every 5k. synthetic is cheap insurance.

why would I want to do that when I could just buy regular oil and change it every 3000??? im not sure about the oil reducing wear tho??

If you switch to a synthetic oil after around 6000 miles, you will experience leaks. The best time to change to a synthetic is on the very first oil change on the truck.

That is complete bull and you know it. After 6000miles it will leak, lol, NOT!

I changed mine over at 125,000 miles and guess what, not one single leak whatsoever.

If your vehicle doesn't leak oil now, it won't with synthetic in most cases.

If it leaks with conventional oil, you bet your bum it will with synthetic.

Anyone have a copy of that oil bible?

I lost mine and I wanted to read it again.

Can anyone host it for us?

kenwood guy, you must be kidding. the sole means of synthetic's existence is too reduce wear. it is a man made oil. there are no natural oils of any kind in synthetic. its has been proven and proven to reduce wear. "royal purple" and "mobile 1" are the top companies. the difference between your basic oil changes every 3000 miles is that at the 3000 mile mark of your regular oil the additives and the oil have broke down a long time before. at the 3k mark your oil is doing nothing. the detergents are gone and the lubricity is minimal. synthetic is still going strong keeping your engine clean and well lubricated at 3000, hell even 5000 miles synthetic is still going strong.

If you can get a copy of the oil bible again, I can host it

I found it if you want to host it.

Great reading.

PM me with your ICQ or MSN messenger ID.

kenwood guy, you must be kidding. the sole means of synthetic's existence is too reduce wear. it is a man made oil. there are no natural oils of any kind in synthetic. its has been proven and proven to reduce wear. "royal purple" and "mobile 1" are the top companies. the difference between your basic oil changes every 3000 miles is that at the 3000 mile mark of your regular oil the additives and the oil have broke down a long time before. at the 3k mark your oil is doing nothing. the detergents are gone and the lubricity is minimal. synthetic is still going strong keeping your engine clean and well lubricated at 3000, hell even 5000 miles synthetic is still going strong.

what every you think we live in a free country man I still dont belive it yea sure its design is to reduce wear but why buy it if I change my oil every 3k its cheaper and you save money synthetetic in my opinion is only good if you dont want to change your oil often if synthetic is so good why dont they pull regular oil off the market??? thats strange in my opinion regular is good enough

Because oil is what makes the world go around.If you know what I mean.

yea but why not just have synthetic its sooo much better

yea but why not just have synthetic its sooo much better

can you stop flip flopping your arguement, first you are arguing against synthetic, now you are arguing for it.

What is it, you want it or you don't?

I changed my daily drivers oil over to Synthetic at 280,000km and still got no leaks.

Now that I finally had time to drop my Blazers new motor in today I'll be running normal oil in it for the break in period, then changing to synthetic. Hopefully it'll last at least 1/2 as long as my daily driver then.

you cant just have synthetic. that would me a monarchy. regular oil is for people like you, ignorant. i give up on you. keep putting that regular oil in your ride.

you cant just have synthetic. that would me a monarchy. regular oil is for people like you, ignorant. i give up on you. keep putting that regular oil in your ride.

you cant just have synthetic. that would me a monarchy. regular oil is for people like you, ignorant. i give up on you. keep putting that regular oil in your ride.

is it that the whole point is to make a monarchy regular oil is still out there and it has to be good if not then synthetic would have fazed out regular oil a long time ago once they faze it out then ill belive you

what school did you attend. you can have a monarchy. damn son, pick up a book.

Well I finally got around to taking BlazerLT advice that he gave me at the beginning of this thread. I put engine flush in and drained the oil, came out black as hell. Then I put the new synthetic in with no problems. Great advice, follow those instructions if you are planning on changing from conventional to synthetic :)

Just for everyone's information again, here is the Flush guide I gace to atomicpulse.

Do this before you switch to synthetic.

Ok, you are going to have to do an engine flush.

You do this just before you change your oil.

Ok, ready?

Go buy your oil and two oil filters. Yes, two.

Buy one good one, and one crappy fram filter.

Buy a bottle of engine flush. Degunk or pennzoil will do, buy the one with the most volume. 1 quart is close to the size.

Ok, ready to do the flush and the oil change?

DON'T REMOVE THE OIL, LEAVE THE OIL PAN PLUG IN!

Ok, remove your oil filter ONLY, discard and put on the cheap fram oil filter. You will have lost maybe a quart of oil in doing this. This is good.

Pour the bottle of engine flush into the oil fill tube, put the cap back on the oil fill tube and start up the engine and IDLE it for 30 minutes.

I AM COMPLETELY SERIOUS ABOUT THE IDLE THING! DO NOT BE AN IDIOTIC AND IMPATIENT MORON AND REV THE ENGINE WITH THE FLUSH IN THE OIL. THE FLUSH IS MEANT TO THIN THE OIL AND IT DISSOLVES THE ENGINE OIL SLUDGE ALL IN YOUR ENGINE.

IF YOU DO, YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR ENGINE AND DON'T COME WHINING BACK AT ME BECAUSE YOU COULDN'T FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS.

The new filter is there to catch the amazing amount of crap the engine flush will dissolve and remove it from the oil. After 30 minutes has past, shut down the engine, remove and discard the crap oil filter.

Remove the oil pan plug and allow the engine oil to drain. Leave the filter off and the plug out for 30 minutes so all the conventional oil is allowed to drain. Don't rush this job, DO IT RIGHT! Hell, while it is draining, go around and lube the hinges on your truck or maybe lube the front end a bit.

Ok, after 30 minutes has past, install the good quality oil filter (AC Delco/K&N/WIX/Mobil1) and fill up your oil. DON'T OVERFILL! Also, check your oil level on even ground.

There you go, you have internally cleaned most of the conventioanl sludge out of your engine and have replaced your oil with synthetics.

You are now good for 8000miles of driving when you replace the oil filter at 4000 miles and top the engine oil up with what you lost changing the filter.

Happy driving!

I heard this also works with tranny oil but you dont have to idle your car for 30 mins plus you drain the old oil first before puting in the tranny oil (change filter as well) ever heard of it?? I got the word from two guys ona radio show that owned the aamco transmissions company( art and angelo)

Dontcha just love oil wars? I can rob you all blind, do your wife in public, and eat the last cookie and not get the reaction I would if I were to say 'use oil brand xxxxxxx'.

Here is my major-heresy for the day: change the oil using the manufacturers specified intervals, use oil obtained at walmart (even super tech) and use any filter but fram, and other stuff will fall off your vehicle long before the engine goes.

now for some minor-heresy:

never flush a motor. If the motor has run on oil, properly changed, any brands, and is not suffering a blown gasket that allows water incursion (which no oil change will fix - sorry), it does not need flushed for any reason. If each of you REALLY needs to lighten your wallet by $4-5, simply send it to me. I will put it to better use. I promise.

If the motor is a 1970's v8 sludged up, then IF the flush would work, it would promptly clog the pump pickup screen forever, until you rebuilt the engine.

the differences in syn oil vs 'dino' oil are so small, Im betting none of you need them, AND, we are in the S10 forum to boot so I can now guarantee it.

Ok I'm going to throw a BIG stick of explosives in the fire. If you really want to clean up your oil sump, and have the cleanest engine in your town do a complete oil change except instead of using oil use clean diesel.

Idle the motor for 10 min... Believe BlazerLT with his warning.

Then do another oil change using a quality filter (not Fram, or any made by fram for other retailers) and the quality oil of your choice.

When your draining the diesel you really wouldn't believe how filthy it got during the 10 min.

And I disagree with Quaddriver. Any motor that runs on synthetic will out-last any motor run on Dino oil.

What is dino oil?And yes I've heard of using diesal for flushing.I also heard that using a oil flush treatment will clog shit up and do more worse than good.But hey I'm staying out of this debate.I just want to know what dino oil is.:)

Dino Oil is just another term for origional Fossel Fuel Oil

I get it,DINO as in DINOSAUR.Thanks.

Any motor that runs on synthetic will out-last any motor run on Dino oil.

define outlast?

for perhaps ALL 'civilian' car/truck owners, syn oil brings nothing to the table. when is the last time you have ever heard of 'engine failure due to oil' and 'dodge' wasnt on the nameplate?

I'd say Every time that I see a worn out chevy cam shaft (often) or every time that I see fried bearings in Fords (not quite as often). Synthetic oil helps prevent these things from wearing out.

It seems to me that I see less Dodge engines with problems than either Ford or Chevy... although there aren't that many dodge's around where I live.

The 70's are over (the last time a soft chevy cam has been encountered) and ford uses such huge greedy oil passages they never lose bearings. As I said, engine failures due to oil just dont happen, even on ones baked to death.

Each engine rebuild I do I return the bearings to the customer to explain what was found. Unless something really bad happened like drove the engine with water in the crank, even bearings worn thru the lead and copper are usually within allowable tolerance and unless metal filings were put in the oil, the cranks are typically good to go for street uses.

The 70's are over (the last time a soft chevy cam has been encountered) and ford uses such huge greedy oil passages they never lose bearings. As I said, engine failures due to oil just dont happen, even on ones baked to death.

Each engine rebuild I do I return the bearings to the customer to explain what was found. Unless something really bad happened like drove the engine with water in the crank, even bearings worn thru the lead and copper are usually within allowable tolerance and unless metal filings were put in the oil, the cranks are typically good to go for street uses.

Guess you haven't hearn of the 6.0L Ford Power Stroke Diesel that love to shear crap oil down to nothing and destroy main bearings at the slightest lack of proper lubrication.

I wish that you could explain my blazers old motor with just 4 years since the last re-build before the cam packed it in... plus the bearings were on their last legs. Although I didn't own it then and I'm not sure how it was taken care of.

I wish that you could explain my blazers old motor with just 4 years since the last re-build before the cam packed it in... plus the bearings were on their last legs. Although I didn't own it then and I'm not sure how it was taken care of.

You talking to me?

Guess you haven't hearn of the 6.0L Ford Power Stroke Diesel that love to shear crap oil down to nothing and destroy main bearings at the slightest lack of proper lubrication.

Nope. I haven't.

But destroying bearings because of LACK of lubrication should go under the 'duhhhhh' category.

what did my first post here say? change the oil with manu recommended blah blah blah.

Can anyone verify the diesel flush?

Hahahaha BlazerLT and atomicpulse... "It is about people polluting the environment." Since when do Canadians care about the environment? You just truck your trash into michigan anyways...

Nope. I haven't.

But destroying bearings because of LACK of lubrication should go under the 'duhhhhh' category.

what did my first post here say? change the oil with manu recommended blah blah blah.

I never said lack of oil, I said lack of proper lubrication. Just because there is oil in there doesn't mean it is properly lubricating the system.

Just out of curiosity, what is the recommended change interval quaddriver?