Front end syndrome

I've had my '93 transport since 1993 and overall, I like the car. I do not do a lot of mileage, the car is fuel efficient, and with the amount of salt they use here in winter, I LOVE the non rusting body. I have the uderneath of the car oiled regularly, and everyone not fond with card will never think it is 11 year old.
THe only section that has really bothered me and all those I know with that type is the amount of parts that need regular regular replacement in the froint end. Tie rod ends (inner and outer) (always keep one outer in stock), ball joints, bearing. I have had a 2 year old tie rod separate in 2 parts just by testing it with my hand when switching from winter tires to summer tires.: WOW !!!!
NOw the last inconvenience that puzzleled me for a while is something I learned as related to SCRUB RADIUS. Honest, I'm the culprit here: I had decided to use 215-70 tires instead of 205-70 (to gain some ground clearance )...and the directional stabiity became really erratic (i did not do the relation at once- it took a while) . I checked for everything, parts, alignment, etc.....to no avail. It is just when I read carefully this story about the intersection of 2 axes forming an angle that has to happen somewhere near the road surface - in the book I had had for 11 years --that I was lead to think that this change of tire height MIGHT - I could not believe it- be the culprit. I swapped tires back to 205 and INSTANTLY, everything returned to normal....My wife told me .....ta ta ta....I had told you not to change anything..to mess around with the car...I could not drive the car for so long because I was afraid of it...etc etc...mmmm....she was right.
Well OK...just in case someone had same problem.
GOod day

I asked my wife what size she had on hers and she said the 205's as well...thanks for the heads up!!!

We too like the olds because of the salt...

I have an aquaintence that goes by LMP...LOL

Unusual that you have so many front end parts being replaced. I had my Transport for 256K miles and replaced some of those items once, and only once.

I think I have changed the Upper ball joints twice in 50,000. Tie rod ends I have done twice too...

I do not think the car has upper ball joints...it has Mc pherson struts.

Hi, im new to all this having just purchsed a 95 trans sport with only 48k miles. Its a great van, but when driving it the thing wanders all over the place. The directional instability is horrible! The only thing i can see wrong so far is that there are 4 different tires on this thing! all almost new.. but different tread!! Im sure this cant be good!! They are 205 70 15..... any suggestions for a newbie? Thanks

No. Tires would not have such a large effect.

THis thread had a follow-up

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=298662

where I stated that all along, I just had a worn out ball joint that I just did not want to see because it had been changed already....several year before though. ONce I looked closely and a new ball joint was installed, everything came back to normal as it should. SO check ball joints. 50000 miles is just OK.
By the way, replacing parts in the front end is usual business with that car. easily done, though. Tie rod ends come and go..(3 outer sets and one iner set -this last one a big job: got to remove the rack and pinion) .as well as ball joint, hubs, ....well that is about it....

I just found out the lleft front ball join was shot. had it replaced, but it still doesnt feel like the steering is tight. what else can I look at? thanks!

....Now I'd look more closely at the right ball joint too...lol....!!.If it is still tied to the car with rivets, I'd just throw it away.

Is the alignment ok?..Bad "Toe in" ..specially when toed "out", has a definite effect...I have a trick to check that "on the fly"..very precise...more later if needed.

...after using several methods to check a ball joint...I found the easiest and the most revealing is simply...to leave car on ground and have someone turn the steering rapidly left and right - just a little, 1/4 turn each way- while you look under the car at the ball joint: when worn, you will see very easily the play of the lower strut relative to lower table. Jacking the car removes the weight of the car from the tire and applies the whole force of the spring against the ball joint (if you jack under the table--or very unusual ball joint angle if you jack on center frame) and it locks it in place, and it is very hard to find it good or bad that way, even when prying the strut with a crowbar...while with wheel on ground, there is absolutely no vertical force on the ball joint and it will just move very easily if worn out.

I dont think it was re aligned after the ball joint was replaced.

how do you remove the outer tie rod

Remove retaining nut from tie rod end "taper" insert.
Loosen locking nut on tie rod JUST unlocked and leave it AS IS to mark the position of tie rod end.
TO extract taper from wheel knucke assembly, the tric is to hammer sideways with a heavy metal mass absorbiong the blow from the other side.
www.avigex.ca/xport/tierodend.jpg
THis will dislodge the taper after a few hammer blows and just tap it from under and it will slide off easily. NOrmally, trying to force it out directly froim under is very difficult , unless you have an air hammer.
ONce dislodged, unscrew tie rod end from tie rod
reinstall new tie rod end on tie rod to same position as discarded part. Tighten lock nut. NORMALLY, this will establish an acceptable toe-in adjustment. FOr more info on toe-in "home" adjustment procedure, come back.
THen insert taper, install nut and torque to specs.