Removing the idler pulley
Bedivere
07-18-2004, 06:17 PM
I've just replaced my squeaky alternator to find that the idler pulley is also squeaking. I got a new one from the auto-parts store but I can't get the old one off?
Looking at the direction of belt travel, I figure it's reverse threaded but I it's either frozen or I'm spinning it the wrong way.
Any help in getting this bugger off?
There's also very poor clearance between the bold head & the engine compartment and any tricks here would be helpful, too.
It's a 98 Windstar with the 3.8L engine.
-B
Looking at the direction of belt travel, I figure it's reverse threaded but I it's either frozen or I'm spinning it the wrong way.
Any help in getting this bugger off?
There's also very poor clearance between the bold head & the engine compartment and any tricks here would be helpful, too.
It's a 98 Windstar with the 3.8L engine.
-B
sahib
07-18-2004, 06:51 PM
Looking at my '99, the idler is right up front and easy to get at. I would think it would have a standard thread and not a left hander, like you're suggesting. The tensioner looks like it could be a little nasty to access but not terribly bad. I would think that one would also have a standard thread.
busboy4
07-18-2004, 08:20 PM
Hi
I have replaced mine on my '96, and others on Taurus' and a Caravan. All had standard threads and simply screwed on and off.
Good luck
I have replaced mine on my '96, and others on Taurus' and a Caravan. All had standard threads and simply screwed on and off.
Good luck
Bedivere
07-18-2004, 09:06 PM
Yup - you're both right. I've got the new one in place & the belt refit.
Thanks!
Thanks!
osprey
11-24-2004, 01:24 PM
I just spent a couple of PAINFULL evenings changing the belt and idler pulley on my 2000 Windstar (3.8). First, my pulley was held with a 1/2" REVERSE-THREADED bolt. Second...and most painful was that of stretching the belt over the pulleys. Absolutely forget about the 'special' tools from Autozone. The clearance wouldn't allow a socket to fit, the sockets were all metric, and the open-end attachments wouldn't stay on the bolt head. If the car was on a rack, then 'maybe' there would be enough room to torque from below...but definitely wasn't enough room from the top. I invented my own tool. I used a box end wrench on the pulley bolt. I tied a rope to the other end of the wrench and pulled it while my wife slipped the belt into place. This effort worked like a charm.
DMS825
11-25-2004, 06:37 PM
When one of the coiled springs on my garage door broke, the new springs had to be retensioned. I picked up a 3/8" x 36" steel rod from Home Depot and cut it in half. It's also worked GREAT for taking the tension off a tensioner pulley. It's very easy to put one end of the rod on the tensioner bolt and pull against the pulley with one hand on the rod. The other hand is free to slip the belts on and off the pulley and I don't have to call for help. It worked great on my Thunderbird SC with its three belts and also on my Windstar when replacing the tensioner.
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