Interior Lights / Door Ajar lights

If you are having problems with the Interior lights and Door Ajar lights staying on.

I have the fix that will take care of the problems, and they will still be operational.

It's a simple fix, cost about ten cents to fix.

I've made the repair on ours, After several hours of studying the
wiring diagram.

However there is a small one time fee of FIVE DOLLARS for this information.


( Compared to $250.00 - $350.00 at a repair shop)

[email protected]
660-831-0501

My car battery is running out and I need these lights turned off. If its only ten cents to repair please tell me how! I would really appreciate it.

My Windstar does this too. The lights should shut off after 20 or 30 minutes if you do not keep opening the doors. If not, you can remove the fuse 'at no cost'. This also makes my windows not work. I think Rosco should give up the info....

I'll bet RoscoPColetrain went to "Cooter's Garage". :2cents:



A little WD-40 worked for me. :)

I think we need less people like RoscoPColetrain around these parts.

Anyway Tasteph where exactley did you spray the WD40???

If you are having problems with the Interior lights and Door Ajar lights staying on.

I have the fix that will take care of the problems, and they will still be operational.

It's a simple fix, cost about ten cents to fix.

I've made the repair on ours, After several hours of studying the
wiring diagram.

However there is a small one time fee of FIVE DOLLARS for this information.


( Compared to $250.00 - $350.00 at a repair shop)

[email protected]
660-831-0501


How about you just take a look at this thread and not spend the 5 dollers ? So instead of paying for "advice" on here just read on....

Ok so I have read many people having issues when their door light and or the bell stays on and wont go off. Many people say that if you spray the latches with WD40 or PB blaster it will *fix* it. Well it is more like a band aid not a repair. It WILL happen again. Now I will explain the way to fix these seding units. I will be using the rear lift gate as my example.

1st remove the trim panel from the rear gate.

2nd using a t25 torx bit remove each complete latch assembly from both sides of the lift gate. There are 3 of these screws per side. I take one off at a time so as not to stick wrong one on wrong side.. however it really isnt that complicated if you pull both.

3rd once you have them out you will see an electric sending unit on each latch with a 2 wire connector, remove that. Then if you look closely at where the sending unit slides into the latch.. you will see a plastic backing that has the words "tab" stamped into it. Now... very carefully slide a small screwdriver under where it says "tab" and apply a little preasure upwards, not oo much or it will break. While you have the preasure applied rotate the sending unit clockwise so it unlocks and slide the sender out of the latch assemply. Now if you want to never have the door bother you again... throw these in the trash and put everything back together and you're done. HOWEVER if you want to do it right.. take the sending unit and either replace it with a new one for each latch or use some quality carb or parts cleaner to clean the heck out of them. You will see a small metal sliding switch, when this switch gets stuck IN it causes the door chime and lights to stay on. So clean ittill it moves easily on its own. A few drops or lubricant will help AFTER it is cleaned. After you have them moving freely just put everything back together. I myself also use carb or parts cleaner on the complete latch as well till its totaly clean of all old greese then I spray on some new white lith greese before putting everything back together.

I hope this helps. Spraying the latch with WD40 will sometimes work, however in the long run it will only last a while. The issue is the sending units are sludged up and the more wd40 and such you spray on the more dust and stuff it will collect... making it sludgy and sticky again.

Just clean them and lightly spray them to get them sliding free and then they should last another 50k!

Hope this helps.

jtman04401 is right with his post. His insight should help a lot of people if they search for this problem. We are responsible for a fleet of over 1200 vehicles and use the WD-40 first, then the switch. Print his instructions out and save them.

The WD worked for me also. I sprayed on all the door latches. This is where the light sences and door ajar senses are. The dliding door I also sprayed the little round pins sticking out and the round silver circles where they meet. Mine turned out to be the drivers door.

jtman04401 is right with his post. His insight should help a lot of people if they search for this problem. We are responsible for a fleet of over 1200 vehicles and use the WD-40 first, then the switch. Print his instructions out and save them.



Thank you for commenting. I removed my rear latch sensors.. lol I said I was gona order new ones but have just kinda not bothered yet. lol.

TY jtman04401 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=317522); :smile: we'll try your suggestion, seems we have more problems when it is rainy weather with this light seems the latches aren't working properly. Sometimes they eventually go out on their own. One night we were out drying and reclosing the doors because the interior lights didn't want to go out not sure how got them to finally go out.

Refer to this post too

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=404922

It is all door ajar related as well

Thank you for this advice. my 99 xlt right rear door is the problem. I know this since there is no sound when the door is opened and all the others have
a sound when opened. I can not see the tab you mentions on my door. I can pull the tab off, np, but i cant see in there.

Any suggestions?

tks,
Jack