crankshaft bolt

Wich way does the crankshaft puuly bolt turn to come out on a 1995 sl2? Clockwise or counter clockwise?

lefty loosey, righty tighty. same as any other bolt.

I didnt know if it turned opiset of the motor. It took a big pipe ectention o get it loose

Just out of curiosity, what are you doing? Sounds like your about to tear apart the block.

lefty loosey, righty tighty. same as any other bolt.
i also needed that info, i assumed since the damn thing seems to be torqued at like 3000 nm i assumed i was going the wrong way. in the past i have use a bar and broke the teeth out of my crastman 1\2 ratchet...(different project) what did you use to stop the crank from spinning, i have tryed to put bolts in the flywheel but i've noticed it started bending the flywheel. also, the engine stand starts tipping over... problems problems...

its torqued to 159ft-lb

already out of the frame? that stinks. the vehicle frame won't tilt like a stand will.

some people use a strap wench i think, other put a long rope into one of the spark plug hole(i don't like that idea), if you still have the transmission nearby you could shift in park(auto) or two gears(manuals), or what i am going to try soon is shove a rod between the crankpulley and block.

also, a cheater bar will help i'm sure.

yeah, i tried the bar in the main pulley. it doesn't work so great, maybe i need a bigger bar. my cheater bar is 5 feet and i weigh every bit of 180 pounds so thats like 900 foot pounds isn't it? anyway good luck with it. keep us posted as will i.

also try heating the bolt and using penitrating oil.

its been soaked with pb blaster (i think thats what it is called) for about two days now, i thought the heat might expand the bolt though. at work we freeze metal to 100 degrees farenheit below 0 to force it into other metal... so i thought carbon dioxide, or LP gas...(that'd be nice and safe) i have tried heat before and it seemed to help. i guess the metal expands then contracts faster than the host componet... i'll try heat. i need to get off my butt and try something....

True the bolt will contract faster, but the "host component won't be as hot to begin with.
The trick is you use the penetrating oil while its hot (not red hot), to allow the contraction to suck in the PB, Like in plumbing they heat up pipes and then use the same principle to have the pipes suck up the solder into the joints.
Also the expanding will kinda crush any materials stuck in the threads, and move the bolt slightly (like wiggling it) and once contracted allow for easier removal

(I may be wrong on one or all of these accounts, but this is my understanding/reasoning)

With the penetrating oil I've used, it says to set up vibration after applying, tap it with a hammer the vibration wiggles the bolt...

don't get frustrated, i have heard of guys with impact guns on full blast taking almost ten minutes to get it off.

thanks very much for all the replies... i haven't gotten too frustrated yet, what does frustrate me though is at work we have some very impressive tourque guns and at home i've got duct tape and butter knives, and a few sockets... i am building up quite a supply of tools though, every time i start working on it, i have to go buy another tool.

Ah ha, well that seemed to work really well i've gotten the bolt out and not only that but the pulley came off with little effort, got the timming chain cover off, oil pan off oil baffle and pick up off, oil pump out, making more progress than money now. how do i get the oil pressure limit thing out of the timing chain cover and do i even need to?