Spark plug change?

I need to replace the spark plugs in my 2000 Impala, 3.8L. The back plugs look really tough to get at. Does anyone have any tricks to make this job easier?

Thanks

you will need to purchas a spark plug boot puller (really technical name huh?). the back plug boots tend to melt to the plug and if you simply try to pull them off you will rip the wire out leaving the boot on the plug. guess how i know that. you will need to remove the distributor pack from the top of the back of the engine above those plugs. that is the only way you will get enough room to put any tools back there. the whole project took me about two hours. good luck

regarding the 2001 Impala we have a 3.4L and have heard of a clamp tool you can use to pull the engine forward. What is the name of this tool and where can you find it? Thanks for any advice.

It's not that hard to replace the back plugs to actually need something to pull the motor forward. One you would be putting stress on the motor mounts and if you do it wrong you might compromise them. Just make sure when you replace spark plugs, would hurt to spend the 30 some bucks and throw new wires on it too...then it will make it easier for you to pull them off not having to worry about pulling out the wire from the boot. Trust me..live and learn..lol....

mike

Found what I was lookin for. the lisle engine tilt. Its a real tool won't hurt the engine, specifically designed for the GM transversally mounted engine. changing the wires as well.

The tool attatches to the torque struts (dog bones).

Found what I was lookin for. the lisle engine tilt. Its a real tool won't hurt the engine, specifically designed for the GM transversally mounted engine. changing the wires as well.

The tool attatches to the torque struts (dog bones).

Is the tool a dealer purchase tool? or can I get it at a local parts shop?

actually you don't need 2 unhook rear engine mount and tilt engine unless you wanna do extra work. all you need 2 do is remove your strut bar to get to the back ones. and when i used the boot puller, every boot that I used it on it broke them. the ones I used my hands on came off just fine. lets face it if your car has 100,000 miles or so and you wanna replace the plugs (what factory recommends), you should replace your plug wires also

actually you don't need 2 unhook rear engine mount and tilt engine unless you wanna do extra work. all you need 2 do is remove your strut bar to get to the back ones. and when i used the boot puller, every boot that I used it on it broke them. the ones I used my hands on came off just fine. lets face it if your car has 100,000 miles or so and you wanna replace the plugs (what factory recommends), you should replace your plug wires also

3.4imp
Thank you for your advice. And your time for responding. I will do that next time I change the spark plugs. I myself don't trust anything to pull the boots out but my hands. I usually twist the base until they come loose. My forearms are pretty sore the next day but I have peace of mind.

Found what I was lookin for. the lisle engine tilt. Its a real tool won't hurt the engine, specifically designed for the GM transversally mounted engine. changing the wires as well.

The tool attatches to the torque struts (dog bones).

Hello Nate,
I would like to know how the tool worked out and if you were able to change the rear plugs and anything else you may have had to do such as loosen or disconnect bolts to move the engine forward.
Please respond as I amvery curious to know and also complete my tuneup.
Thank You,
David.

when i did the plugs in my 2000 monte with a 3.8 , i pulled out the front mounths, pulled the motor by the alternator bracket bar...and using a large zip tye , zip tied it forward...made it easy enough...even a come along would work....it helps if u have the car parked down towards a slight incline..

Having just purchased an 02 Impala 3.4 w/61K I decided to check plugs/wires. Now I thought it was done like the early Luminas pulling the engine forward (3.1) which it was designed for. Not so with the Impala. There is room to get at the rear plugs though it is tight and I did break #1 wire due to the tight fit GM wires and did only pull boot! I went w/aftermarket 28 buck set of wires. (50 for GM wires is nuts) Now the plugs being Iridium and 6 bucks ea. one has to wonder what the the advantage is over platinum as the center electrodes were so weak they broke when checking gap (yes I was gentle). so I replaced them as well since they were worn .070+. Also note that if you get or are using Chiltons manual the gap specified for the 3400 E is .045 This is wrong! GM and Alldata have it at .060 which is correct.... I do have a question though...what is the correct AC Platinum Plug number to use if one wishes to replace the Iridium? I will also point out here that if you do get the plug wire puller try to find the one with the offset at the boot grip rather than the inline. I will post a source(s) if I locate one.

i went to autozone and asked for platinums, and it looks like acdelco changed over to iridium on tthe platinum number anyway

It's not that hard to replace the back plugs to actually need something to pull the motor forward. One you would be putting stress on the motor mounts and if you do it wrong you might compromise them. Just make sure when you replace spark plugs, would hurt to spend the 30 some bucks and throw new wires on it too...then it will make it easier for you to pull them off not having to worry about pulling out the wire from the boot. Trust me..live and learn..lol....

mike

the engine is made to move around.

There will be no damage to the mounts.

Now I thought it was done like the early Luminas pulling the engine forward (3.1) which it was designed for. Not so with the Impala.
I had no issue with pulling the engine forward after I released the mounts at the dogbones.
I went w/aftermarket 28 buck set of wires. (50 for GM wires is nuts).
I would strongly suggest against going with anything on these newer Impalas other than the factory ACDelco parts for the plugs and wires. I had a very bad experience with putting platinum plugs in with the factory wireset and a misfire problem. I had worse luck when I changed to the Autozone wires. You can read about my troubles with that here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=354316

As a matter of fact, I consider that misfire problem a heavy contributor to the catalytic converter problem that surfaced later.
Jim

I changed my wires & plugs in my 3.4 Impala. I was able to get the back plugs out no problemo & there was plenty of room to work back there I thought.

I used "Taylor Spiro Pro" wires from Summit Racing and Split Fire Platinum plugs.

Everything worked well but I will use "Bosh Platinum 4+ Gapless Spark Plugs" this yr., because they are the Ultimate.

ogre 73, Thanks for the heads up on the plug wires, I would have gone with the AC Delco If I could purchase one wire, but dealer parts will only sell entire set to public. But will only replace a single wire inhouse repairs, might be a crappy dealer or all that way who knows. I went with top of the line from my auto supply and they will guarantee anything I buy from them so no worries. I am still curious why the change to iridium, only thing I come up with is plug life to increase what they can state as tune up interval time. I just don't see any evidence that they would produce a more efficient spark than Platinum but i am still researching this subject will post if I find anything interesting.

ogre 73, Thanks for the heads up on the plug wires, I would have gone with the AC Delco If I could purchase one wire, but dealer parts will only sell entire set to public. But will only replace a single wire inhouse repairs, might be a crappy dealer or all that way who knows. I went with top of the line from my auto supply and they will guarantee anything I buy from them so no worries.

Just so people know, I have no delusions about ACDelco being the best out there; I'm sure they aren't when you come right down to the specs like resistance, interference, etc. What I DO think is that they are the plug and wireset that the car was engineered around. In this day of computers engineering things to such tight tolerances, and the computers in the cars looking for certain setups/values, I am from here on out unwilling to take the chance that I took with all of my previous cars and "upgrade" to a better set of plugs or wires. I am still convinced that the reason my wireset failed was because of the different properties of the platinum plugs with the delco wireset. 57, don't assume no worries; if all that failed was the plugs or wireset you would be fine, but if, like me, it leads to something else like the cat converter, it could cost.

I am still curious why the change to iridium, only thing I come up with is plug life to increase what they can state as tune up interval time. I just don't see any evidence that they would produce a more efficient spark than Platinum but i am still researching this subject will post if I find anything interesting.

For what it's worth, the NGK website (Oh yeah, the ACDelco plugs ARE NGK, by the way) says "The result are spark plugs that require less voltage to spark, burns fuel more efficiently, sparks at leaner air/fuel mixtures, and delivers higher horsepower and better gas mileage." http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars_trucks_suvs/iridiumintro.asp?nav=11400&country=US
This site http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/iridium_spark_plugs.htm gives a pretty good reason with physical properties.
Here, too: http://www.machv.com/denirsparplu.html. It looks like hardness and melting point are pretty key.

By the way, you can buy the plugs with the NGK name if you want, but then they are about 40% more expensive.
Jim

I changed my wires & plugs in my 3.4 Impala. I was able to get the back plugs out no problemo & there was plenty of room to work back there I thought.

I used "Taylor Spiro Pro" wires from Summit Racing and Split Fire Platinum plugs.

Everything worked well but I will use "Bosh Platinum 4+ Gapless Spark Plugs" this yr., because they are the Ultimate.

good job.

splitfire plugs suck ass.

they are no different than normal plugs, the spark has to go to one of those prongs, and it usually chooses the same one (least resistance)

so acually, you are just getting a spark that is at an angle.

Just so people know, I have no delusions about ACDelco being the best out there; I'm sure they aren't when you come right down to the specs like resistance, interference, etc. What I DO think is that they are the plug and wireset that the car was engineered around. In this day of computers engineering things to such tight tolerances, and the computers in the cars looking for certain setups/values, I am from here on out unwilling to take the chance that I took with all of my previous cars and "upgrade" to a better set of plugs or wires. I am still convinced that the reason my wireset failed was because of the different properties of the platinum plugs with the delco wireset. 57, don't assume no worries; if all that failed was the plugs or wireset you would be fine, but if, like me, it leads to something else like the cat converter, it could cost.



For what it's worth, the NGK website (Oh yeah, the ACDelco plugs ARE NGK, by the way) says "The result are spark plugs that require less voltage to spark, burns fuel more efficiently, sparks at leaner air/fuel mixtures, and delivers higher horsepower and better gas mileage." http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars_trucks_suvs/iridiumintro.asp?nav=11400&country=US
This site http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/iridium_spark_plugs.htm gives a pretty good reason with physical properties.
Here, too: http://www.machv.com/denirsparplu.html. It looks like hardness and melting point are pretty key.

By the way, you can buy the plugs with the NGK name if you want, but then they are about 40% more expensive.
Jim


Are there any conditions to look for to decide its time to change plugs? I have no clue when mine were last changed, but i've put nearly 25k miles on the car since I got it. Also are there any performance boosts to changing them?

Are there any conditions to look for to decide its time to change plugs? I have no clue when mine were last changed, but i've put nearly 25k miles on the car since I got it. Also are there any performance boosts to changing them?

the plugs should last till about 125,000 miles, and maby even more.

cars today run so clean, you usually never have to change them.

my friend has a jeep with 215,000 miles with the origional plugs in it (he just got it)

On my 2000 LS with 3.8 I used a ratcheting, tie-down strap. Disconnect both dogbone mounts, hook the strap to the radiator support and the engine cover bracket. Pull the engine forward and you will have all the room required to change out the rear plugs. Now, for this tidbit of info...NEVER (and that means never) gap iridium or platinum spark plugs. The precious metal is too brittle. Gapping can create problems for that plug in the future. Also, since they are 100k sparkplugs go ahead and spend the bucks on a set of Delco wires. You cannot go wrong. Rarely will you get a set of plugwires to last 200k. Since you're there, just make it a one time thing.
Happy motoring.
Dwain

why cant you gap iridium or platinum plugs...i gap them all the time without problems...you just cant shove the gap tool in there hit the electrode,

Im trying to change the Spark plugs in my 02 Impala 3.4 LS I cant seem to get ANY of the plugs off! I have wrenched and pulled and they wont budge... any suggestions?

Teri

Im trying to change the Spark plugs in my 02 Impala 3.4 LS I cant seem to get ANY of the plugs off! I have wrenched and pulled and they wont budge... any suggestions?

Teri


start the motor let it run for about 2-3 min... then spray each with wd 40 or similiar....try to take them off if they turn and then feel like they are stopping turn em back in then back it out again repeating until it is all the way out....