crusie control

Crusie control does not work checked fuses seems to be ok. Suggestions?
Also lighters in the front and rear do not work again checked fuses seems to be ok there. Need lighters for power source for cellular.
lots of static on AM radio can not remove. Wondered if it could all be related in any way.
?????
Thanks for any help
Teacherpat

Changed the fuses now the lighters work and the radio is doing fine. But still need help and cruise control and what I might look for????

Your brake lights aren't stuck on are they? If so that will inhibit cruise engagement assuming it is the brake light switch stuck. If not, there are a number of different items that could cause the problem. Not familiar with the newer ones but have fooled with some late '80s stuff.

The cruise switches can get dirty, and not work. ALso, the "clock spring" in the steering wheel can wear out with mileage and use (lots of turns). I have also found the switch wires pulled out from a gorilla "mechanic" not taking due care when removing the steering wheel to center it after an alignment (your not SUPPOSED to remove them to re-center, but it's still done).

On new vehicles the steering wheel only lines up one way. It is notched that way so you can't screw with it. Does your hoen work ok? The cruise is wired through the horn relay. It has constant power and recieves a ground through the horn relay circuit. If the horn works then it may be a ground problem.On the connector for the speed control module you should have power in the run position on the pink w/orange wire. The black wire is ground and the tan w/orange is ground. The air bag needs the input from the clock spring so if there was a problem with it your air bag light should come on. But not always. good luck. :sunglasse

Hi Pat

Good info in previous posts. I spent several hours working on my CC. An aftermarket manual and a volt/ohmmeter can help you troubleshoot the steering wheel switches. You measure the different readings at the servo/motor under the aircleaner (that is where it is on a 3.8L). If you think the switches are still good, an inexpensive next step is to test/replace the brake-on switch on the bottom of the brake master cylinder. I think it was around $22 at Ford and I am pretty sure that is what my problem was. I have seen another post to that effect as well. If you think you need the servo/motor try fordpartsonline.com. It is not cheap, but cheaper than the dealer. You might also search on cartrackers.com in the windstar forum for more info.

My cruise troubles were faulty switches themselves. I was told that this is the least likely thing to go wrong but it can happen. My Haynes manual helped me trouble shoot it.

And I fixed the switches so net cost to repair was $0.