IMRC ? on a 97 Windstar

On my 97 Windstar, I was told it was running bad due to the IMRC being bad. They told me the front one was already shot and the rear was getting ready to go. I have driven it that way for over a year now due to them wanting 600-700 to fix this, and it has not gotten any worse. I know have the funds and want to fix them. Do I need to remove the alternator to do this ? If so, how do I loosen the belt or do I have to ? Another problem I have is that I smell the "waffle house" smell, which I figure is coolant leaking somewhere. Is this my water pump ? no overheating and no leaking on the driveway. I know it's not the head gasket. AC went out last year and I was quoted 700 to fix that. Thanx guys/gals.

You could get some performance issues if the intake manifold runner control(s) on your 3.8L are stuck in the open position, but if they are stuck closed, you'd just get a slight power loss on WOT conditions. Either way, you should get a CEL if the IMRC is not functioning. FWIU, the common issues with the IMRC setup are broken actuators or carboned up (stuck) butterflies.
G/luck
Joel

Yep, I have the CEL on. I surprised it's still working. It's been on two years now. I have heard so much about head gaskets going and I hate to drop 600-700 on the IMRCs and then have the gasket go. Anyway, I may have to try to replace them myself.

You'll have to read the OBDII codes to interpret what's going on. If you have to tear into the upper/lower intakes due to leaks, that's the time to troubleshoot & work on the IMRC system- while you are already in there.
G/luck
Joel

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm getting trouble codes P1537 and P1538 from my 96 Windstar 3.8L. From what I've been reading/learning is that the IMRCs are stuck open. Does the sound like a good plan?- Tear apart the upper intake, give it a good cleaning, and check and replace the IMRCs? Does searching for a replacement IMRC in a junkyard sound like a good idea? How much would I look at spending if I did this myself? Thanks for any info all!

Hey there. Yes and no. I tried to pick up a set of IMRCs at the yard and they told me that they won't take them off the engines. They sell the motor as all one piece. I got mine from Five Star Ford in Arizona and they were much cheaper than the dealer. I paid to have mine put on, but that fixed my problems for the most part. The dealer told me that the check engine light might come back on due to the EGR ports being clogged with carbon. They wanted 270 to clean them out. I said, I'll do it later and the van is running very well but the CE light did come back on. I noticed better gas milage as well as much more power. I will probably take it back to have this done, I just didn't want to drop 900 in one day. I had my AC fixed the same day. You can do it yourself and the parts were 300 and change. Good luck.

I would not source IMRCs from a junkyard even if they would seperate them from the engine as they have rubber diaphragms that are prone to perforation and rot. Also with most of the 99 and 00s the intake "gums" up with carbon making the IMRs hard to open and close thus stressing the controls and causing failure. The controls run about $130 from my area dealer at retail.

I would not source IMRCs from a junkyard even if they would seperate them from the engine as they have rubber diaphragms that are prone to perforation and rot. The controls run about $130 from my area dealer at retail.


Thanks for the info Mike!

Also with most of the 99 and 00s the intake "gums" up with carbon making the IMRs hard to open and close thus stressing the controls and causing failure.


Can the same be said regarding a '96 model?

ok I have same issue with my 98 windstar, getting codes P1537 P1538, I need to replace the IMRC on the firewall side. does anyone have the ford part# for this so I can search for the best price?

Here is what I have learned about the IMRC vacuum controls on my 98' windstar.
They close initially at engine start up. At 1300/1500 RPM they will open (which is where the default position is) so the engine can breathe better. The biggest problem I see these causing is a vacuum leak (leaking at the rubber diaphram) which will cause your engine to run lousy and waste gas. If you let them stuck open for 2 years (I can't stand looking at the CEL/SES light for more than 2 days)you may well cause your lower intake EGR ports to clog and the IMRC butterflys for each cylinder to get "sticky".

1) check the IMRC runners by moving them with the engine off and the IMRC control rods disconnected. This will tell you if the butterflys are stuck....if they move easily I wouldn't remove the upper intake just to get a look see, OBDII codes will tell you if you have a problem with the EGR ports being clogged by giving you lean or misfire codes.

2) push in the control rod on the IMRC control diaphrams, place your finger over the vacuum port and then let go. They should stay in until you take your finger off the vacuum port. If it dosen't stay in that IMRC controller is bad and needs to be replaced.

3) if they both pass the vacuum test and the IMRC runners move freely you will need to check the vacuum supplied to them, a cheap vacuum gauge from autozone will work. any reading between 16" - 20" will be good. I would suspect that the vacuum will be bad if tests 1 and 2 pass. If the vacuum at the diaphrams are bad you will need to check the vacuum supplied to the solenoid that controls vacuum to the IMRC diaphrams. If that is bad trace the line out till you find the break.

4) if tests 1-2 pass and you have vacuum supplied to the solenoid, but never any out of it you will need to focus on the solenoid (located on the rear of the upper intake) Put a 12V lamp in the connector of the IMRC solenoid (don't forget to plug the connector back to the solenoid) and start the car. The lamp should go on and off as the PCM signal activates and deactivates the solenoid, this will prove the PCM to be good and the problem is the solenoid.

IMRC diaphrams are available dealer only, about $200.00 each and are easily replacable.....I would gladly take $600 to replace these as it is only 30 to 45 minutes work......

a lesson to be learned here. when the CEL/SES light illuminates check it right away.....by ignoring it you are eventually going to end up with a way bigger mess.....a stitch in time saves 9

You mentioned a 12 V lamp to test the IMRC solenoid. Where can I get one of these lamps? It would be handy for checking the solenoids on my Windstar.

Just a regular, cheap 12V lamp that you can solder a couple of wires onto that can be stuck into the connector....this is something that is home made. Make sure the wires are of a small enough gauge so as to fit into, but not dammage the connector.

Just a regular, cheap 12V lamp that you can solder a couple of wires onto that can be stuck into the connector....this is something that is home made. Make sure the wires are of a small enough gauge so as to fit into, but not dammage the connector.

Thanks for the tip, I think I will build one right away!