It keeps shutting off

Hi. I don't know anyting about cars. All I know is mine keeps shutting off. I don't know why. I take it to get fixed and the problem still remains. They've changed the spark plugs,they've changed the fuel filter, and they've cleaned the throttle thing...I don't know. I've spent hundreds of dollars for them to fix it and it's still not doing what I want it to do. So what does it do? I'll tell you. Whenever I'm in reverse backing up or going at a slow speed it shuts off. The oil light and the battery light comes on. (I had a new battery and alternator put in.) When I'm driving and I come to a stop sign or whenever I put on the brake to slow down my oil level thing goes all the way down to red and the oil light comes on or it sputters then shuts off. Whenever is shuts off I put it in park and start it up again. Also when I'm driving with the windows down I hear this weird noise. I sounds like a whisshing clicking noise. this didn't happen until they clean that thing. Oh and sometimes when it acts like it wants to shut off but doesn't it jerks. The entire car jerks forward like it wants to go somewhere but can't cause my foot is on the brake. Another thing is sometimes when I start it, it sounds like my foot is on the gas and my rpm is at the 2. Funny thing is the car is in park and my feet aren't in the car. Can you help me?

My guess is that your oil pump is failing and not giving the motor enough oil pressure to keep the internals lubricated. If the car is replaceable, then get rid of it. It will cost you a lot more to fix than what it is worth, at least 5000 to 700 dollars.

As long as the key is in the "on" position your oil light will be on if the car stalls out on you. If it is coming on before your car dies, then you have a big problem. If Shop A can't seem to fix the problem, take it to Shop B for a second opinion. Perhaps Shop A missed something, or they are dicking around with you. Don't tell SHop B you already had it in A. Let them figure it out on their own and compare notes.

I had a similar probem on my 97 SL2. I fixed it by reiplaceing my key ring. I have to many keys to count and once in a while one would bind with the back of the steering wheel. The would move the ignition switch when the wheel was truned and shut the engine off. My daugher had this problem on a Honda and it was the ignition switch itself. Have it checked out for reliable connections.

few ideas: theres a rule of thumb with saturns, any weird problem(even more so when idle is high) change the ECTS(coolent temp sender). second s-10 i was driving for a while stalled when ever it was revercing up a hill or with any load, bad coils had killed the cat converter. dealer warrentyed both and i was on my way. also there is something call a brake booster that i have not clue how it works but i think it boost the brakes with power from the engine(LOL at myself) maybe someone else can make a ruling on that. also oil pressure is relitive to RPM so oil pressure going down when rpm are going down isn't THAT bad, but stalling is. BTW are you going to the dealership or a shop? and make sure you're changing you oil at or before 3000miles