Ford windstar dome lights problem

Hello.
I've read and tried all suggestions.
Unfortunately, they don't work for me.
problem: Ford Windstar 98 - dome lights won't go off after vehicle is parked.During the motion, they go off in 10-15 seconds.But when engine is not running - they never turn off.
I checked all door connectors, problem still exist.
So, when I park the vehicle, I have to take off a relay from a fuse box.
Please advise what can be done to fix this mishap.
Thanks.

Are there any aftermarket or dealer installed devices on this van? If so, I suspect something is keeping the Lighting Control Module (LCM) powered up with 12V when it should be 0Vdc (key off, ignition off). Without scanning the data from the LCM, there is no way to know WHY the lights are on.

Had the same problem with the dome light. I found that the problem originated in the trunk. The two plunger switches were sticking. Try some WD-40 on them and may result in a better operation. It may not work for you, but it did for me.

Could somebody please explain to me - what are these plunger swithes.
Some people mentioned a ball inside them sticking or something.
could they be illiminated at alll?
Please advise.
thanks.

no you cannot get rid of them that easy they are part of the assembly. Any use of taking it apart would make it futile. Like the post before you said about the WD-40 it helped me. On sthe sliding door you have two of them one in front and the back spray both of them down with even coating. open and shut you door a couple of times to get the oubricant in there. There was a post before about this problem and to find out which one is the faulty door. turn your ignition on and open each door one at a time. You will hear a ding letting you know that that sensor on the door works. The door that doesn't ding is the one you should try to use the lubricant on. This has helped me alot. no more annoying lights when my car is on before i drive. Hope this helps. if you have further troubles just post your results and I will help you in the direction of where to remove your door panel to have access to the sensors.

Bri

Dear Bri
Thanks a lot for your advise.
It looks like I found what I've been missing - there is no audio signal on my car when any door is opened.my be the dealer who sold me the car took something off.and I'm fighting with lights and there are more problems.
Please let me know what should make a dinging noise.Otherwise, I can not follow your suggestion, which I think is very good.

oh, okay then well i would suggest the oil on all the locks to make sure then go from there. I'm not sure about the where the noise should be coming from, but when I have been under my dash a lot i hear the anoying noise coming from where the fuses are at. So you might want to chack there to see if something is missing or wires are exposed as if something was tyorn out of there. Hope this helps

bri

oh by the way I have a 96 windstar, and I'm not wsure what year you have so they may be different.

Dear Bri
Thanks again.
I oiled all locks, got noise when I'm opening the drivers and passenger doors.When the sliding door or rear door is open - no noise, silence.So, as per your previous message, problems are with those 2 remaining doors.If you don't mind, please guide me to the next steps.
Best regards,
AK

okay then dont forget that both remaining doors have two latches each. The rear door panel you would have to take it off the get access to the sensors. You might want to unplug it and the plug it back in you should be able to hear the ding. If not the the sensor contacts (two small metal blades)may be dirty. A handy Q-tip would work here. I am not sure how to get into the sliding door panels. I sprayed some gun oil on the sliding doors latches. Here is a website to get access to the door panels if you ever needed it: http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereo...dstarFDrSpk.htm But, again spray the latches and work them with a screwdriver to make sure they fall all the way back and lock. Then pull the handle to release it. Hope this helps prevents you fomr going to the dealer to replace the sensors.

I had same problem with my '96. it was both switches in tailgate. the ones connected to the latch mechanism. they are sealed and very little oil with get into them. i even removed them and soaked them in oil. finally disconnected them. you will lose the door warning light for the tailgate, and capability for light when opening the tailgate, but my battery was dying in middle of winter. another fine engineered device from ford.

This appears to be a common problem with the 98 .. we don't have any reports of it happening with 96 but knowing Ford it's probably the same defective part..

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Windstar/1998/accessories-interior/door_ajar_light_stays_on.shtml

Ok I *know* I corrected the link in Post #10 when I first posted this, & now that part has been removed. Note to whoever removed it, this is relevant to this discussion & not advertising. I realize linked text gets shortened automatically when posting but in post#10, so did the actual URL.

http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalFordWindstarFDrSpk.htm

I did not have a chance to work with rear door switches yet(rainy days), but what I'm thinking to do is - unplug these 2 swithes and place a paper clip into each plug.
I'm just not sure if the circuit should be opened or closed to make light go off?
Please advise.
Another thing is - when I'm driving, light goes off.
Is there another reason or it's OK.
Thanks.

exactly what happens to our 96. just unplug them, no need for paper clip.

Ladies and Gentleman,we got 'im!
It was a faulty switch on a sliding door - I placed a paper clip into it to close the circuit and get it our of my head.
Thank you all for your help.
Together we can beat ford (no capital letters intentially).

On my recently purchased '96 Windstar I had same problem but I think I've got mine fixed. I've seen other postings that suggested start engine and then open/close one door at a time. I aslo sprayed WD-40 on all doors. It appears that the driver's door was the one that was the problem.

Of course a "dealer" is going to charge you an arm and leg to fix the problem. They might even ask for a couple of fingers and toes too!

I have had this issue for a long time! Finally read the forum, got some ideas and fixed it. I used a drill mounted wire brush and cleaned off the four contacts on the side sliding door and the four on the door post. I opened the hatch and operated the little spring sliders on the sides of the hatch door until the dust stopped coming out (compressed air would probably be better). I then sprayed these, the hatch door latches (right above the spring sliders), and the contact points on the side sliding door with WD-40.
VOILA!! 20 seconds after door close, the lights turn off!!!!
Thank you car forum!!

To others reading this: I would *not* use a drill and wire wheel to clean the sliding door contacts; the metal is very thin and won't tolerate much abuse. I've found that Revere Ware cleaner (that's right, for copper-bottom cooking pots) does a good job removing the tarnish and dirt that these electrical contacts pick up. You'll get longer-lasting protection for these contacts than WD-40 by using dielectric grease, found at any auto parts store.