problem in my crx b16 help!!!!please!!!

my car sputers once in awhile and when i reach 3.000 rpm and leave it there the car tugs a few times even in 4.000 rpm but when i punch in the trotle and revs up it doesnt lose any power, wel maybe a litle. and when the car does this i punch it all the way up to 8.200 rpm and like at 7.000 rpm the car smokes alittle black, but when the problem is not there the car goes all the way up to 8.200 and no smoke. my rpm needle is at 1.200 at idle and when the problem starts it drops down to 1.000-900 rpm. the problem is intermitent. what could it be??

helloooooo!!!! :uhoh:

are b16's not bad for distributor faults?? maybe urs is faulty and causing a slight misfire and making ur fuelling go a bit iffy hence the black smoke..

just a thot

are you posting any codes ?

The last time I had that problem I had a cylinder misfiring. I turns out one of my spark plug grommets was full of oil and was causing the car to misfire. I used to have to punch the gas to get the car to budge. This was on my Toyota. Since, I changed the plugs, cleaned the grommet, and changed the oil I haven't had the problem since

ok the ecu doesnt throw any codes the spark plugs are new new head gasget, maybe its the distributor. when the car is cold it usually starts ruff like crank, blub blub blub broom!! it starts on the first try or second but with that problem. what could it be?

coolant temp sensor. check it by starting the car, and when it warms up, unplug it. if the car doesnt sound any different, then its a sure thing that either your coolant temp sensor or your intake temp sensor are bad. the intake temp sensor is a small white sensor on your intake manifold, and held in by two phillips screws. when you take it out, it has a 1 inch long white probe on it, if that thing is cracked, black, funky in any way, its a good chance thats your problem.

either of these being damaged could be the problem, even without a check engine light on. the check engine light will come on if they are no longer sending a signal, not if they are sending a high or low level signal, as long as its not the maximum high or low. the ECU looks for the maximum low for a disconnected sensor, thats why i said to unplug them and see if the engine sounds different. cause the ECU will try to compensate for the sudden change in temp by riching the fuel mixture.

ok thanx ill check the coolant sensor and the intake sensor but is that the reason my car when is cold starts like that?

probably

can some one tell me what the problem could be

should i go with turbo or nitoures on my b16 crx or both dont know becouse i have hi comp piston 10.5.1 so i dont know what to and still trying to fined out what the problem is on why my timing belt keep wanting to slide of ?

first of all why did you bring up such an old thread?

Now to answer your timing belt question, when you push on it does it have a lot of play? Of so loosen your tensioner and get the belt tight and then tighten it back up. When you say it wants to slide off do you mean is it sliding to the side? Or is it skipping teeth? Might also be a good idea to change the timing belt too if you havent done so already.
And about the nitrous and turbo, neither is a good idea since you have high comp pistons, what kind are they anyway? Stock comp is 10.2. Forced induction and high compression = detonation.