free car runs bad but still fun to drive!

I have a 89 std. hatchback w/200k I just picked up for free :iceslolan So heres the deal, once the engine runs up to temp it gets real doggy, if I get on the throttle to fast it bogs really bad unless I get it past about 1500-2000 and dump the clutch then it runs great all the way up in all gears. Also it won't hold a steady idle once its warm it really surges up and down. I put a timming light on it and it is retarding the timing when it acts up, I can make it act up if I snap the throttle fast off idle, if I go slower it revs up just fine. I have put in a new fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and I set the timing to the red mark (18 degrees?) The guy I got it from said it had been acting up for a while and he had new plug wires put on and it didn't help, they look new. I also checked the tps with my ohm meter and it is nice and steady through the whole motion allthough I don't now any spec for it, it still has the tamper proof screws holding it in. Any help would be great I have been searching for a place on the net like this for a long time and am glad I found this place. Thanks for any help or suggestions!

If you want to set the timing to TDC on the crank, You need to align the single white line on the crank pully with the groove on the lower timing belt cover. Maybe that can help you out on getting your car to run a little better, maybe the timing if off a little.

Any idea which notch is the white one? I was under the impression the center one of the three close together was the one I am supposed to use it looked kinda red under all the rust!

The TPS should be .5V closed and 4.5V at WOT I think.

It is at .7 at closed and 4.7 at wot.

i think the one you want is supposed to be red

you are supposed to set the timing at idle, and there's a jumper you need to short out to prevent the timing advance from affecting your setting.

thats the one with the yellow cap right?

yeah, that's the guy

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=154489

Check some of your sensors like the coolant temp etc.

My check engine light has never came on (except when I turn the key on) anybody know how to check for codes? Anyone know what I should have for readings on coolant sensor or another sensor?

if the check engine light is only before start up in the "on" position, you shouldn't have any codes..the light will stay on or flash on later if you have codes..they way to check is the ECU (under the passenger side carpet) will blink if the engine light flashes at you.

One recommendation I have is to make sure you have good gas in the car (i.e. drive until almost empty and get good fresh gas from a reputable retailer) and reset the ECU. Do this by pulling the ECU fuse under the hood for 15-20 secs. Although you may not be throwing any codes, it is possible the ECU has some bad programs stored in it from the previous owner's driving habits, etc... Start the car after resetting the ECU and let it run for 20-30 minutes at idle to let the ECU re-map everything. Drive it nicely for a bit to let it get used to things and see how it runs. Obviously, make sure the timing, etc.. is set to stock settings before trying this.

Also, ECU codes for 4G's can be found in the "FAQ" thread at the top of this 88-91 Civic forum. :thumbsup:

And if I screwed anything up above, I am sure peeps will correct me :cool:
Oh yeah - and welcome!!! :wave:

Get the :newbie:
:rofl:

http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/default.htm - that might help you with some of your questions.

I took it into the local garage to a guy I trust :icon16: to get his opinion after I tried clearing ecu and letting idle a bit (did't make any difference) and he stuck his trusty screwdriver in the plug wire with it running and watched it spark while it was running and had me snap the throttle to make it act up and he said the spark looked really weak and he was pretty sure the coil was bad and recommended I replace it because he has seen simalar things on these motors and thats what it turned out to be. He only charged me $30 and that was including what I didn't pay him for diagnosing the last two cars I brought out to him. :thumbsup: The parts stores want at least $75. I have no problem paying this much to fix it but I don't like to throw money away! :disappoin Btw thanks for the input and the link to the manual! :p Any ideas of some other things to check before I try the coil? Also is there anthing I need to know before changing the coil?

My engine acted pretty much the same way about a year ago. Replacing the coil made it run OH SO MUCH NICER. Idle was smooth and it stopped bogging down once I reached anywhere between 1000-1700RPM. I think at the time I had about 175K on it. I have the LX Sedan but I'm pretty sure we are running the same motor.

I am going to go buy a new coil in the morning and give it a try. Anything I should know before swapping it?

Check the old coil for cracks/stress. Also check the distributer cap as mine had cracked along the side. Just barely noticable. I purchased both for mine. It ran fine untill a couple days ago when I killed the valves doing a 110.

110: 1am, empty freeway. You get the idea. ;)

Thanks for the help! What happened to your car? Did your timing belt break?

Let us know how it works out.

I prob. won't get back online till late again tonight but I will post back if that fixes it. :cheers:

About changing the oil - Always replace the drain plug washer with each oil change or you will have a small drip.

IT'S FIXED!!!!!!!!! The new coil cleared up all the problems and it only cost me $70. Thanks to everyone who contributed I will definitely use alot of the info I learned here. :thumbsup:

I lost a wrist pin on the number 3 cylinder. The car runs. Idle seems to be random, engine clicks, and smokes like a son of a bitch. I can barely get it up to 30mph now.

Also, if it doesn't have it already, adding a headlight buzzer will probably save your battery on occasion. I drained the battery 4 times from leaving the lights on. Then I installed the buzzer, no more dead battery problems after work. :P

I think it was posted in the FAQ thread... *looks* Ah yes http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=1136135&postcount=11