will synthetic oil extend the life of Windstars

Has anyone ever tried using synthetic oil in their Windstar? If so, which ones have you had good success with?

I was thinking of switching over to synthetics. My 2000 Windstar has 53,000 miles on it. And I was hoping to extend the life of my Windstar.

I had a 95 Windstar with 100,000 miles on it when I purchased my new Windstar in 2000. How many miles can an average Windstar last? And would using synthetic oil greatly increase the miles you could put on a Windstar?

Has anyone ever tried using synthetic oil in their Windstar? If so, which ones have you had good success with?

I was thinking of switching over to synthetics. My 2000 Windstar has 53,000 miles on it. And I was hoping to extend the life of my Windstar.

I had a 95 Windstar with 100,000 miles on it when I purchased my new Windstar in 2000. How many miles can an average Windstar last? And would using synthetic oil greatly increase the miles you could put on a Windstar?

I HAVE A 98 WINSTAR WITH 136000 ON IT HAS EXCELLENT OIL PRESSURE AND BURNS NO OIL BETWEEN CHANGES.PLENTY OF POWER FOR A 3 LTR.BOUGHT IT5 MONTHS AGO THE PLUGS WERE NEVER EVEN CHANGED AT 100000.THINK IT WILL GO FOR ANOTHER 5 YEAR EASY.AS FOR SYNTHETIC,THE WAY I UNDERSTAND IT IS THAT IF USED AT EARLY MILEAGE,ITS OK.BUT NOT TO START USING AFTER HIGH MILES.SOMETHING ABOUT THE PISTON RINGS.I DONT USE IT BECAUSE OF IT.WHAT I READ MADE A LOT OF SENSE REGARDING SYN OIL.DONT THINK 53000 IS MUCH MILES AT ALL.

In my opinion, synthetic oil is much better. I have a 2000 Toyota Land Crusier with 120,000+ miles on it and have never had a problem with the vehicle. I used Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil from the begining. As for the life of a Windstar - I am really not sure. I have never had much luck with Fords and GMs. They all seem to by cheap, pieces or crap that spend more time in the shop than on the road. For a comparison, look at this Windstar forum v.s. the Toyota Sienna fourm. None of the problems that happen to these Windstars seem to happen to the Japenesse vehicles. Check out the "Windstar from Hell" thread here. It should tell you the life of a Windstar. Maybe you have had better lucj with American made cars and trucks, but my luck has been horrible. Plus, I put a lot of miles on my vehicles in a relatively short amount of time.

For a comparison, look at this Windstar forum v.s. the Toyota Sienna fourm. None of the problems that happen to these Windstars seem to happen to the Japenesse vehicles.

I tend to agree based on my experience that the Japanese vehicles tend to have less issues and when a Ford has problems it tends to landslide from there.

But I definitely wouldn't use the Sienna as an example of not having problems, the Sienna is included along with 3.3 MILLION other Toyota vehicles with the 1MZ V-6 and the 5SFE inline 4 engines that are having sludge problems requiring engine replacement. At first Toyota said there was no problem, then said that it was the owner's fault, then has come around to cover repair costs only after many many lawsuits. But the key factor is that the owner has to prove they have kept up with oil changes, not sure what they do to do it yourselfers who do their own oil changes. Many Sienna owners have been through hell with these engine problems and shelled out $5,000 plus for new engines. Luckily they are now covered if they can prove they kept up with maintenance.

Ok back to the topic, I do believe in using synthetic in applications where the fluid is not replaced as frequently such as transmissions and power steering. I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic in my power steering because of the way the Windstar cooks the fluid. But for engine oil where you are still replacing it every 3-5k I stick with conventional. The synthetic will give you some better mileage and wear protection under severe conditions, but if you keep up with your oil changes conventional will do just fine for the long term in my opinion.

lewisnc100:

You do have a point. I am I big fan of Jap. cars and trucks and have had excellent luck with them. Then I got stupid and bought a 2004 BMW X5 4.4 (which I love) that is in the shop right now because the engine overheated. It only has about 3000 miles on it, and I was only going about 40 MPH.

If anyone has any ideas on my BMW problem, visit this link: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=173967

Anyway, compare it to the Honda Odyessy, or the Nissan Quest, of which both I have read great reviews on, especally the Honda.

Plus, if you drive a lot of miles like I do, then synthetic oil is great. I drive about 800-1000 miles a week, and if I used conventional oil, I would be changing it every 3-5 weeks. With the synthetic, I can let it go to 6000 to 9000 miles. It seems to work out nicely.

My sister has 186k on the 3.8 engine without problems. The engine is in an Explorer.

Regarding the Japanese vehicles - I own one (a Honda) and it's no prize. But this is a game of statistics for the auto manufacturers. They don't want to assume the inspection cost of making a perfect vehicle. My dad used to work at GM on an inspection line and he was often told to pass things that he thought were defective. GM knew they would break but was betting that they would break after the warranty. I think the Japanese have stricter standards on the inspection lines - for now.

>I had a 95 Windstar with 100,000 miles on it when I purchased my new >Windstar in 2000. How many miles can an average Windstar last? And >would using synthetic oil greatly increase the miles you could put on a >Windstar?

Synthetic oil DEFINITLEY extends the life of your Windstar. I have a 1998 Ford Winstar...it has 267,000 miles on it...always used synthetic oil from day one..sometimes I will use semi-synthetic. I highly reccommend using synthetic.

Synthetic oils are definately superior to conventional oil, but will they make your windstar last longer? That is dependant on a WHOLE bunch of factors. Synthetics will outperform conventional oils in three ways:
1) synthetics stay "fluid" and pump easier in extreme COLD temps.
2) synthetics hold up/stay in grade under EXTENDED drain intervals.
3) synthetics maintain their properties longer in HOT running engines.

Unless you do any of the above, you are wasting your money running synthetic oil. Synthetics will do nothing "better" for your engine over a dollar/qt conventional oil at a 3mo/3000mi oil change interval. If you want to run the max drain interval as specified by your owners manual (7500mi) I would use only a synthetic. Bottom line is, at an oil change interval of 5Kmi or less, you are wasting a good synthetic oil! Don't believe me? blow about $30/ea on a used oil analysis for a buck a quart oil & then a synthetic oil at a 3-5Kmi drain interval from your windstar & post the results. There will be no difference. A great site all about oil is www.bobistheoilguy.com
G/luck
Joel

I "think" that synthetics extend the life of any vehicle. Here's my story --

Ford Thunderbird, 1987, 100k miles. Burning (or leaking) half quart of oil every three thousand miles. Using Havoline mineral based oil. Oil changed every three thousand, so no oil is added between changes.

Switched to Havoline Synthetic. Go three thousand miles -- uses NO oil!

Tried a few Synthetics, resolved to Mobil 1.

Now I have 300,000 miles. No major engine problems, but I do leak out of my rear main seal. Turns out I have to put half quart in at 3000 miles, then wind up changing at 5000 miles. Haven't figured out what to do about it, not interested in replacing the rear main. Just bought Bars Leaks for rear main seals, will try that now.

Considering what I see about "most" cars, 300k miles is a lot for any of them.

Figure this. Average 12000 miles per year, call it four oil changes per year. Regular oil is $2 * 5 + $5 for filter = $15/change = $60/year. Synthetic is $25 + $5 = $30/change = $120/year. It really doesn't cost much more to put synthetic blood in, and it gives me peace of mind.

--Mark
http://www.marksatterfield.com

But, you know, have to add this note: If you are only going to keep your car for 60k miles, then it probably just doesn't really matter. You can likely go 10k miles between oil changes with regular oil, change oil six times in the life of the car, and "get away" with it... but the next owner is likely to need some severe maintenance. I'd definitely not suggest this technique, use synthetic instead.

--Mark

http://www.marksatterfield.com

AS FOR SYNTHETIC,THE WAY I UNDERSTAND IT IS THAT IF USED AT EARLY MILEAGE,ITS OK.BUT NOT TO START USING AFTER HIGH MILES.
Manufacturers and most online pundits say that nowadays there's no problem with switching from regular oil to synthetic oil, whether your engine is new or old. Mobil 1 says you might have to have a couple of shorter change intervals than usual, but that's it: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_From_Conventional_Motor_Oil_to_Mobil_1.a spx

Obviously the oil companies *would* say that and anyone can start a website, but my personal experience (for whatever that is worth...) is that I switched from regular oil to Mobil1 synthetic, and had no problems whatsoever.

I am a believer in synthetic oil.
I used Mobil 1 5W-30 in my '96 3.8L......from when I bought it in 1999 with just under 38K miles on it....up until FORD issued the TSB recommending 5W-20 oil.....then I switched to Mobil 1 "EP" 5W-20 that had recently come out.
This is a picture that I took while doing my lower intake manifold gasket repair.......the heads are cleaned up....but that area between the heads, with the pushrods for the valves, and the counterballance shaft.......is all just as I found it.
The picture is taken someplace around 165K miles.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2068738120011220610nnxLsy

It is real clean when I look through the oil fill cap on the front valve cover also.
However, I stayed with a 3-4K mile change interval....which many feel is too often.
Before replacing the lower intake manifold gaskets.....I had a very slight leakage of coolant......a very small amount ending up in the oil.......
However, I still don't go over 5K miles with my synthetic oil.
But that is just me.
I change extra often.....and I have a extra clean motor.

I am at 195K miles now.....no coolant leakage....engine runs great and transmission shifts just great.
I had great service from the Mobil 1 "EP".....5W20 (FORD recommended) or the 5W-30 (older windstar's original specified oil).
I recently switched to Redline 5W-20 (about a year ago).

I also STRONGLY suggest a synthetic ATF, like Mobil 1 ATF for the tranny, as well as for the power steering.

Modern synthetic oil can clean sludge and deposits left in a neglected motor......so a short Oil Change Interval is recommended if switching from a "conventional" and you are not so sure about how clean things are in there.
Also, some folks have reported some leaks.......caused by the sludge being removed.....as that was what was sealing the leaks up.

All this said.......a "top shelf" oil will not prevent coolant leakage into the engine....as this is most often caused by the front cover gasket, aka timing cover gasket and / or the lower intake manifold gaskets (very rarely from head gaskets on a post 1995 windstar).

I for one have not bit on the synthetic oil yet. I have a 98 Windstar which has 194k on it and does not use any oil. I have been using the Motorcraft semi synthetic 5W30 oil in it since I bought it. Also use the Motorcraft oil filter. Both of which can be found at Walmart. I forgot to mention that its the 3.0 liter engine which is definitely the more durable of the two motors available for that year. I just can't justify the cost difference in using pure synthetic. I might add that I change the oil every 3 to 4K. And when its due to be changed the oil is pretty clean ( not pure black ) but dark brown. The Motorcraft oil runs around 2.30 a quart at Walmart. Oh and this engine does not leak any oil whatsoever. Just my 2 cents

That Motorcraft synthetic blend is a highly respected oil....I've read nothing but good things about it.

I "think" synthetic is better to have in the engine if there is a "severe event".

Example #1: My Winnie's heater hose pops loose when I'm in very heavy traffic. By the time I can get off the expressway, the temp needle is pegged and the engine is steaming and smells scorched. I "think" the synthetic helped to save the engine for another 100k+ miles.

Example #2: A few years ago, my SIL's Ranger breaks a oil pump/distributor drive shaft while they are driving thru the mountains. He notices (when?) the zero oil pressure, stops, and calls for the tow truck. We "think" the synthetic oil helped prevent major damage. He's still driving the Ranger daily.

A little extra insurance perhaps?

I use nothing buy Motocraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend....its the cheapest and I go 4-5000 miles between changes...have 60,o00 on each of two vans...never burned a drop of oil. Get it at Walmart

Just for info: Bought some 5 qt plastic jugs of Mobil1 Syn, 0w-30 (didn't even know before that they packaged this viscosity) today for $21.97 (before taxes) at Walmart.

I heard rumor that a zero W weight oil was on its way. But why? And why call it 0w-30? To distinguish it from straight 30? Vaguely I recall that it's not separate like previous formulations that have a winter component/characteristics and the warm component. This new oil is all temperature viscosity, so it's not two component based on temperature, kind of smoke and mirrors magic, defying normal temp and viscosity relationship of hotter is thinner. That's amazing!

It's dangerous to ask me ... because I know so little about the subject. But I think:

It's not that multi-grade oils don't get "thinner" as they get hotter. 0w-30 is certainly thinner at warm temperatures than at colder temps ... its just that it doesn't thin as much as single grade oil of 0w.

Two reference temps are chosen ... the freezing and boiling temps of water (at sea level, etc, etc). The first part of the multigrade number (0w in our case) is the viscosity that our multigrade has at 32 deg F. The second (30[w] in our case) is the viscosity that our multigrade has at 212 deg F.

So, our 0w-30 "flows" like a 0w at freezing temps, and thins as it warms (but not so much ... less than a straight 0w would) so that it also "flows" like a 30w at 212 deg F.

The whole idea of lessening the viscosity of engine oil at it's high and low temperature ratings is frightening and hopefully won't become a slippery slope. (I couldn't help myself throwing that one in. :)) I understand your explanation that the 0w-30 still has the two viscosity characteristics. So, straight HD30 will just act like 30w at all temps, making thick at cold, thus the distinction needs to made from the 0w-30. But where do we go if we go lower than 0w? -5? -10? 00? 000? 1/10? 1/100? Getting close to diesel and that won't work.

I also have often wondered if we will have negative numbers in future oil products.

YES YES YES YES

Full synthetic oil is vastly superior to dino-oil.

The most important factor is its flash point - in other words, it works to much higher temperatures before it breaks down.

Where you have wear, you have micro-metal on metal contact which produces micro high temperatures and literally rips oil molecules apart. The more worn, the more you need synthetic!

Friend is a master engine builder and does drag engines two. Two customers had bracket engines that were nearly identical. One started using synthetic. On their yearly rebuild, the synthetic one had NONE of the little wear registrations on the push rods and rockers. In fact, he felt that the teardown was unnecessary for the synthetically lubed engine and felt a little guilty charging the customer to rebuild it.

Turbo and high performance engines usually specify synthetic.

Jet engines use nothing but synthetic too!

Amazing stuff.

To those of you that profess to be Jap lovers - What are your thoughts on unemployment?