thrown rod bearing question

ok next step on my car repair...

got the pistons out and found the source of my problem. the bearing in cyl 1 (i think thats the one on the far driver's side) was completely shot and the rod was bent too. i have parts for those but here comes my next problem maybe.
the surface of the crank where the bearing meets it looks all scratched up and all. now can i clean that up somehow and in doing so will i need a different size bearing? or do i have to replace teh crank (which wouldn't be too bad b/c i have another one from my spare block but taking the block out of the car would suck...)... so any help would be great. thanks

You need to take the crank to a machinist and have them machine the crank for you. Also get them to provide the proper size bearings for the newly sized crank.

man i'll tell ya right now once you start getting into all that crap its gonna be cheaper/easier to swap... i was just faced with the same delima... i spun a rod bearing, and buy the time the bearing were changed, the crank was milled (100 bucks) new over bored pistons, rings, and a bore and hone (if you don't do this the pistons won't seat properly) then all the gaskets... man its just not worth it, unless you can afford aftermarket stuff...

ok i was kinda unclear, i have a spare block in my garage that has everything in it. so i have a spare crank and spare pistons to use. i have also already bought rod bearings for it... ask for money, i've already spent about 550 bucks on this project (not counting the first 90 dollars in gaskets from earlier) so i don't have the cash to dish out for another engine (tho if i woulda known this would be the case i woulda gotten like a z6 or y8 or hell a ZC if i could) so i think i'm just gonna finish this up. i have left to buy the main/crank bearings (30), piston rings (50), and i'm also gonna place the timing belt and the rest of hte belts while i'm in there, so i have about another 150-200 in parts, then i have to rent a hoist and stand and get it all together again... as for a hone job, the walls look damn good so i don't think i need that. if i'm missing anything tho, or if someone has another engine they are willing to trade for everything i have (one complete motor which is taken apart [intake, head, and exhaust are all together and the block is almost completely disassembled] and a complete, disassembled block which needs a hone job, all this minus a rod, oh and a head gasket) for a complete, running engine (anything i can swap in), then lemme know...

yeah its understandable in that case... as soon as i started to see what all was bad when i tore my a6 engine down i wrote down all the the parts needed and got the cost of that and the cost of a zc, the zc was way cheeper... now i'm rebuiling parts of the tranny :rolleyes: haha

well now that i've gone into the engine and i'm a little more aquainted on how things work, i'm gonna look more into everything next time i have a problem... first tiem for everything i guess :)

what are the symptoms of a bad rod bearing ?

what are the symptoms of a bad rod bearing ?

knock, knock...

who's there?

knock knock knock knock, kaboom

like a really really loud knock, one thats louder than my open header. a knocking sound that comes from behind or underneath the engine ?

or your car just won't run :) one way to check, take off oyur oil pan and look for metal shavings... i know that b/c on the side of the oil pan where i had the bad bearing there are alot of shavings...

its a LOUD ass knock u will forsure know somethin is wrong

hmm i got a loud ass knock, louder than my open header. dammit

do u still have power?

it starts off as a quite knock though and over time it gets louder and louder, till it scares the bejesus out of you and then the car just won't run... haha best part is when mine stopped working i ran a 16.2 1/4 mile time haha