power steering

I've got an issue with my power steering it has the light ford whine, but when you go to turn it growls and vibrates the whole front of the van. i thought about checking the screen in bottom of the pump to see if it was clogged. Would that be a good idea?

Yes, check things on your system. But I discovered that my '00 power steering quiets down with fresh fluid. I use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF for my system (as always: Verify proper fluid spec in your owner's manual).

My change method: Disconnect the return line from the reservoir. Plug the reservoir fitting (don't make a mess!). I use a short piece of clear tubing on the end of the return line (so I can see what's going on), which is attached to a piece of hose that leads to my waste oil container. Have an assistant start the car - and try to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir at about the same rate as it's being pumped through the system and into the waste oil container. Watching the clear tubing section helps you see when air bubbles start to show up in the system. After pumping about 2 quarts of fluid through - and out - of the system this way (again, watch the clear tubing section to see when the fluid color looks fresh), I put everything back together again, top off the system, and run it for a few minutes to work out any air bubbles.

Thank you. I'll do just that when the weather straightens out.

Dito to the above.
Do NOT use a generic bottle of "power steering fluid" as the power steering system requires transmission fluid.
Using a synthetic as you have been advised is a great idea because the power steering fluid gets REALLY hot and this fluid will tolerate heat well.

The other thing to check out is your tie rod ends and ball joints. They can become stiff over time and hard to turn which adds to the workload of the power steering system.
I used a grease needle to get grease in there to help out.....not as effective as having a grease fitting, but it did add life to these joints.
When having these joints replaced, I always get replacements that come with grease fittings so that I can keep them lubricated.

Once you get any air bubbles in the power steering system, it will make an awful racket until you get them work out of the fluid, so don't panic over the noise, it will go away once you work the air out.
Best to work the air out slowly before running it for any length of time.

Thank you. about how long does it take to get the air bubbles out?

1. How can I determine if my (1997 with almost 400k km => 240k miles) needs power steering flush? Oil is very dark red and I don't think it was ever changed.
2. Does disconnecting return line helps getting rid of residuals - I mean is the line low enough that it allows residuals to flow out? Or maybe taking out oil through reservoir with a "turkey baster method" is enough? Even if done twice its easier than taking return line off.
3. I have some Dexron VI left from tranny oil change - can I use it or rather stick to Mercon V? At the shop they wanted to sell me some red ATF II saying this is the right one.

If it looks old and dirty - and you have no service history - I'd change it.

I'm not sure about the reservoir in 1997 - but on my '00, the power steering reservoir has a filter screen not too far from the top of the reservoir, which means the turkey baster method can't get to the bottom of the reservoir. This is the reason I've gone to using the return tube.

Check your owner's manual for the correct fluid. Be wary of any shop that's trying to sell you something that doesn't match up with the manual. Personally, I've found that Mercon V rated Mobil 1 ATF works well, and meets the spec for my vehicle.

If it looks old and dirty - and you have no service history - I'd change it.

I'm not sure about the reservoir in 1997 - but on my '00, the power steering reservoir has a filter screen not too far from the top of the reservoir, which means the turkey baster method can't get to the bottom of the reservoir. This is the reason I've gone to using the return tube.


Yes, this took me a while to track down. I felt like an idiot once I discovered it, but all I eventually did was disconnect the hoses, remove the reservoir (not very hard to do at all and maybe not even necessary), and hit the screen with some carb cleaner and it cleared right up. A very simple fix for a tricky little issue.

My Windstar manual I got with my car (in German) says that it's the same as for tranny and should meet "Ford Spezification": ESP-M2C 166-H
I found replacement:
Carlube ATF-QII 1L (which is Dextron II)
RAVENOL-ATF-MERCON-V
Mobil ATF SHC
etc.

So if it should be same as for tranny, then why I'm using PetroCanada Dextron VI for tranny - not Carlube ATF QII???

In manual I downloaded years ago (copywrite 1995) I have:
Part Name: Motorcraft Type F Power Steering Fluid
Part No.: E6AZ-19582-AA
Ford Specifications: ESW-M2C33-F
Eg:
Gulf ATF type F meets this specification
and Mobile Type F ATF (https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-type-f-atf)

So pdf manual specifications are different than printed German manual:
ESP-M2C 166-H vs. ESW-M2C33-F.

The more I search the more mess with it. What do you use for your PS?

After pumping about 2 quarts of fluid through - and out - of the system this way ...
What is the total capacity of PS? Is it 2 quarts? With a syringe and hose I can get only circa 250ml out of the reservoir. That would be 1/8 of total capacity so draining this way and adding fresh oil isn't an effective way to change it. If I remove oil from reservoir and then turn wheel stop-stop will it pump some oil into the reservoir?

Disconnect the return line from the reservoir. Reservoir is quite high. Will I get rid of sediments (if there are any) using your "dynamic oil change" method?

I recall that my system contains about 2 quarts.

Yes, the reservoir isn't all that large - the bulk of the fluid is in the lines.

The turkey baster approach presumes emptying and refilling the reservoir several times in order to replace most of the fluid. This is the reason I like pumping the fluid through the system.

Yes, the return line is the higher of the two lines - which hopefully means sediments at the bottom are being sucked out by the supply line, through the system and then into a drain bucket.

If you're really worried about sediments in the bottom of the reservoir, removing it and cleaning it using scubacat's method is probably best. Combining my approach and scubacat's reservoir cleaning method will be some work - but will result in a very clean system with fresh fluid everywhere.