re: more problems with the instrument cluster

Up date. the cluster is giving me more problems. I wish that I could afford to order a new cluster from Ford and stick it in. That would solve everything. Now the silly beast won't start. The starter motor (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/13/0/19/DealFrame/DealFrame.cmp?bm=954&BEFID=96477&acode=933&code=933&aon=&crawler_id=455941&dealId=-dRb5T4-gpO9EiTzSWbT_A%3D%3D&searchID=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.partsgeek.com%2F43tnm2c-audi-a6-quattro-window-motor.html%3Futm_source%3Dshoppingcom%26utm_medium %3Dpf%26utm_content%3Ddc%26utm_campaign%3DPartsGee k%2BShoppingCom%26fp%3Dpp%26utm_term%3DAudi%2BWind ow%2BMotor&DealName=1998-2004%20Audi%20A6%20Quattro%20Front%20Left%20Window %20Motor%20-%20A1%20Cardone%2047-2045&MerchantID=455941&HasLink=yes&category=0&AR=-1&NG=1&GR=1&ND=1&PN=1&RR=-1&ST=&MN=msnFeed&FPT=SDCF&NDS=1&NMS=1&NDP=1&MRS=&PD=0&brnId=2455&lnkId=8070676&Issdt=170909051339&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&dlprc=103.33&SKU=7428-05216210) won't even turn over. Everything else lights up, electric locks work, electric sliding doors will open and close on power, the car radio works also.

I manage to get the starter motor (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/13/0/19/DealFrame/DealFrame.cmp?bm=954&BEFID=96477&acode=933&code=933&aon=&crawler_id=455941&dealId=-dRb5T4-gpO9EiTzSWbT_A%3D%3D&searchID=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.partsgeek.com%2F43tnm2c-audi-a6-quattro-window-motor.html%3Futm_source%3Dshoppingcom%26utm_medium %3Dpf%26utm_content%3Ddc%26utm_campaign%3DPartsGee k%2BShoppingCom%26fp%3Dpp%26utm_term%3DAudi%2BWind ow%2BMotor&DealName=1998-2004%20Audi%20A6%20Quattro%20Front%20Left%20Window %20Motor%20-%20A1%20Cardone%2047-2045&MerchantID=455941&HasLink=yes&category=0&AR=-1&NG=1&GR=1&ND=1&PN=1&RR=-1&ST=&MN=msnFeed&FPT=SDCF&NDS=1&NMS=1&NDP=1&MRS=&PD=0&brnId=2455&lnkId=8070676&Issdt=170909051339&IsFtr=0&IsSmart=0&dlprc=103.33&SKU=7428-05216210) working by cutting the ground side wire from the starter relay to the cluster and route that line directly to ground. I found the right wire to cut because I got the wiring diagram book from Ebay (http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?Ntt=ebay). But the motor still won't start. Some how the cluster is stopping the power from getting to the distributor > spark plugs. I have not verified it with a VOM yet. But I suspect the problem is in the cluster also. I just have not figured out how to bypass the cluster on this yet. I wish there was a detailed (component level) wiring diagram for this cluster that I could get. It would make it easier to fix the gas gauge problem. I could ether fix the problem ground or bypass that ground and fix it that way. Does anyone have any ideas?

I have read that there is a digital three-way "marriage" that happens on the assembly line, between the instrument cluster, the PCM, and the anti-theft sensor that wraps around the key tumbler. At this point in time, the key-code is established ... all "on-board". Apparently, after this time ... if any of the three components is changed out, or damaged, it takes a dealership intervention with a special electronic tool to "marry" things back again.

(I'm telling you much more than I know!)

I figured as much. But if I can't start the the motor. I am stuck because I can't afford the tow bill as well as the repairs. I think it is in the line from the ignition key to the ignition coil. If I could find the ignition coil. I can make a jumper from the ignition coil to the battery and get it to a repair shop.

I have read that there is a digital three-way "marriage" that happens on the assembly line, between the instrument cluster, the PCM, and the anti-theft sensor that wraps around the key tumbler. At this point in time, the key-code is established ... all "on-board". Apparently, after this time ... if any of the three components is changed out, or damaged, it takes a dealership intervention with a special electronic tool to "marry" things back again.

(I'm telling you much more than I know!)

Confirm that you have an anti-theft security system.

Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

Check for spark by removing a plug.

Check for fuel injector B+ (the are turned on by grounding one terminal). Have someone crank the engine while listening to an injector with a stethoscope (you should hear it click/tap).