2003 ford windstar 18 trouble codes, running rough, trans issue etc.

Here I am AGAIN with issues with this god forsaken van! I don't know why I still bother with it?!?!

1st issue - It is running rough, like sputtering kind of (missing?), it does not have the giddy up and go like it did the morning of the day this happened!

2nd issue - We were checking fluid levels, turned on the van to check transmission fluid, hubby pulled the dip stick out and the transmission fluid bubbled up the dipstick tub and spit some out. I've Never seen it do this before!

3rd issue - ALL of the following 18 trouble codes!!!! :banghead::banghead: I don't know what non-mil and confirmed mean....that is what it says on the code reader.

P1336 - Ckp or CMP Input Signal to PCM Concerns (non-mil)
P0171 - Bank 1 System too lean (non-mil)
P0174 - Bank 2 System too lean (non-mil)
P1336 - Ckp or CMP Input Signal to PCM Concerns (confirmed)
P0171 - Bank 1 System too lean (confirmed)
P0174 - Bank 2 System too lean (confirmed)
C1235 - Wheel Speed Right Rear Input Signal Missing (non-mil)
C1185 - Antilock Brake system power relay output circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1198 - Antilock Brake system inlet valve coil left front circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1194 - Antilock Brake system outlet valve coil left front circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1254 - Antilock Brake system inlet valve coil right rear circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1246 - Antilock Brake system outlet valve coil right rear circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1250 - Antilock Brake system inlet valve coil left rear circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1242- Antilock Brake system outlet valve coil left rear circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1214 - Antilock Brake system inlet valve coil right front circuit malfunction (non-mil)
C1210 - Antilock Brake system outlet valve coil right front circuit malfunction (non-mil)
U1260 - No DTC definition found. See service manual.(non-mil)
U1262 - Standard Communication Protocol Communication Bus Malfunction.(non-mil)

For rough running, address the Pxxxx trouble codes.

For transmission fluid squirting from the dip stick tube, it could be over filled. If that's right, then remove some of the fluid (easy to do with a bucket & hose, just start a siphon and drain it into the bucket). Take out quart, check the level, then repeat until it is at a proper level. Normal level will read high when the engine is not running. When it looks about right, double check by running it.

For the engine, the U1262 looks like a basic issue the with PCM or connects to it. I think correcting that should be the first order of business. After that, if the Pxxxx codes remain, then start by checking the camshaft position sensor circuit. (P1336)

I just did some reading online (search for Ford Windstar U1262) and read that a bad ABS module can cause that code. You also have a number of other ABS codes that have been attributed to a bad ABS control module. There are discussions on this forum that tell of owners repairing the board by removing and re-soldering the connections on it.

It looks like repairing the ABS module will resolve the majority of the codes that you've read. After that, the misfire may be related to the lean codes and/or the camshaft position sensor (CMP) codes.

Yes, 2 issues: replace ABS Module (search ebay for rebuilders.. costs about $60) and you'll get rid of all but the P0171/0174. The rebuilder I used included a lifetime warranty in case it happens again, although they claim their rebuild (resoldering) is stronger than it was originally. It's been a number of years and it hasn't been a problem since.

The P0171/0174 are generally the EGR ports and intake bolt grommets. Replace the 8 green grommets and clean out the EGR ports. That's pretty much regular maintenance for these vans every so many of years. The EGR ports being clogged causes misfires and the grommets not sealing cause the vacuum leak.

The number of codes can be offputting, but it's actually not that bad of a fix.

Forgot to add - the communication-related codes COULD also be due to water intrusion at the connector. I'd pull the PCM connector and see if it's gotten wet. If so, dry it out and put a strip of 1" foam across the edge of the sheet metal where the bottom cowl attaches. The factory seal there gets worn after a while. Very easy fix. I never had this issue, but the factor seal looked pretty rough so I added the foam a couple of years ago just as a preventative measure.

Video of the procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-6DK4UqZ1A

Note: This guy's videos are excellent, however he is incorrect about the TSB. The TSB does, in fact, say to seal all the way across. It's just written very poorly and the picture is very confusing. Also, sealing gaps and the clips with silicone is not necessary IMHO and will make life more difficult and messy the next time you need to remove the cowl. Just wipe off the metal, stick on the foam, and put the cowl back. That's where the water comes from and that will take care of the problem.

Thank you for your replies. Sorry it has been a while, life is happening lol. My husband is replacing the back 3 spark plugs this evening. I will let him read what you all have suggested!
Thanks so very much for your help with my van issues.....hopefully we will get it all fixed and not have to go through this again!

Again....THANK YOU! :sunglasse

Forgot to add - the communication-related codes COULD also be due to water intrusion at the connector. I'd pull the PCM connector and see if it's gotten wet.

I really can't tell if it has gotten wet as the last time we had the cowl off we put dielectric grease around the outside holes on the connector, but I will clean it up and let it dry out just to be safe.

I'm honestly getting to the point of just trading it in and being done with it and all of its issues >.< but I don't think hubby will go for that lol.

Oh, and what does (non-mil) and (confirmed) mean under the codes on the code reader? Nothing to worry about? Thanks

non-mil is a code that is recorded and verfied but it doesn't cause the check engine light (MIL) to turn on. Some codes force the light on, but others (non-MIL) leave it off.

"confirmed" is differentiating between a code that has been recorded and is PENDING further verification. It it doesn't reoccur then it is cancelled. However after it occurs more times than the threshold (set in the PCM software) it is confirmed and stored.

So another issue arose before we cleaned the intake and after we replaced the spark plugs. It is now acting as if the transmission is slipping. From Park to drive, I press on the gas it hesitates a few seconds then jumps into gear. At times stopped at a light or stop sign I press on the gas to go and it hesitates then jumps and goes.
As for the transmission fluid bubbling out the stick in one of my previous comments, there's no way it was over filled as it wasn't touched since our last transmission fluid/filter change and was checked before and after every long road trip. After it bubbled out we added up to the right amount on the stick after it settled.
There is also weird rattling under the hood or under the van when speeding up or just holding at a steady speed. Speaking of holding. At a steady speed, I cannot keep it at one speed....if I do it feels like the whole engine is shaking.

I'm so close to just trading this van in before it completely breaks down!

Did you replace the coil pack when you did the plugs? Did you replace the 8 grommets on the inside intake bolts?

Look on the back of the coil pack for a crack. Happens all the time and causes all sorts of misfires and seemingly inexplicable issues. Very, very common on these vans.

Transmission fluid that comes out of the fill tube while running is caused when the volume of what is in the transmission case increases. That can come from air that gets churned into the fluid which makes the oil foamy. A bad seal on the pump in the transmission could cause that, but a very, very common cause (that is fairly easy to fix) is that the transmission is overfilled.

Check the level after the vehicle has sat overnight, giving the bubbles enough time to break up so you're only measuring the level of the fluid and no air as well. It should be checked with the vehicle on a level surface. I believe you should get a level that's a little bit high on the stick since the fluid has drained into the pan.

Next start the engine, but leave the transmission in Park or Neutral, and you should see the level drop as fluid gets dispersed out of the pan. Then as the transmission warms up the normal behaviour is for the level to increase to a stable amount (I believe the hot fluid is somewhat larger volume).

If you have a foaming problem that can cause the kind of hesitation that you've described, but a low level can also cause those types of symptoms. I understand that you believe it should be OK, but there are plenty of reasons that it could be at the wrong level in spite of the recent history.

Transmission fluid......have you done any service on the transmission?
One thing that i have mentioned and also should be shown in my pictures......when the in-pan transmission fluid filter is changed......USUALLY when the old filter is removed....the gasket for the filter neck remains stuck inside the hole in the transmission that the fluid is drawn up into.....
IF this gasket is not removed...you will not get a good seal when the new filter is installed and this is a place that AIR can be drawn into the system....causing the bubbles.
Also low fluid level can cause this as has been mentioned.
Even slightly low fluid level is an issue......but, of course don't significantly overfill.

For other issues.....Make SURE to use the proper spark plug for your engine.
It needs to have ONLY 1 electrode and ground tab (those fancy multi pronged plugs are known to cause issues in the windstar)
The correct plug is a double platinum.....as in Platinum on BOTH the center electrode AND on the ground tab......not multiple prongs/tabs.
As mentioned....the coil pack is a high fail item......cracks develop in the body of it and the high voltage arcs to ground through the crack. If in doubt ....change it out.....then you don't have to worry about it.

Another thing that has been touched on....electrical connections. START at the battery.....a weak battery can cause ALL KINDS of codes and grief.
Relays and sensors depend upon a minimum voltage in order to work.....if they get less....then they will not work....and cause all kinds of failure codes......from perfectly good sensors and relays.
Moving on.....good CLEAN connections at the battery AND at the other connections.
You need to get that minimum voltage FROM the battery TO the various items that need it.
Some have had the main ground connection to the chassis cause them grief.....so don't over look that.

Relays in the relay box can also cause issues. Again....if in doubt, change it.
There are threads on here that mention some relays that are known to fail.

Again.....verify the main electrical connections FIRST (other than the transmission fluid issue) as I would hate for you to replace a lot of parts $$$ and end up with an old battery or connection issue being the cause.
Spark plugs and coil pack are routine maintenance at this point.......and they should last you another 100K+ miles without needing done again.
Same for the upper intake manifold TSB......do it once and forget it.