Should I buy?
profKenn
11-14-2014, 11:10 AM
Hello. Looking at a 2003 Windstar with 195k. It's very clean. Was wondering about the transmission, of course. Had heard that the trans, especially 2003, had bad experience with the transmissions. I don't know the history of the van, and was thinking that maybe by 195k the trans had already been remaned. The van is only $1500, so wondering if it's worth a gamble. Thoughts? Thanks!
scubacat
11-14-2014, 12:06 PM
If it's original, it's probably worn somewhat. Check the fluid (see if it's red and clear) and drive it and see how it performs. Ours is at about 155K on original transmission and it shows no signs of issues other than it runs a little rough before warming up. If I had to guess, we have a couple more years before it'll need a rebuild.
12Ounce
11-17-2014, 11:57 AM
My '99 had a wiring harness issue that caused the engine to buck fiercely on occasions ... i finally had to resolve it myself, but the tranny pump shaft was damaged in the process. Fast forward to 216k miles, the tranny was then dying from use and age, so a Ford reman was installed by me. $2K.. back then. Now it is nearing 200K miles (400K total on vehicle) on tranny with no issues. I know the gaskets and seals must be near failing, but it continues to perform well. Mobil1 ATF.
tomj76
11-17-2014, 08:51 PM
My experience is as follows:
Purchased 1996 Windstar GL new from dealer. During the first year I had one "big" issue: The battery light would blink or come on steady intermittently, but never when I had it at the dealer for service. It was never resolved by the dealer, and never caused any problems until many years later when the light came on but was ignored when the alternator failed. This problem has gone away since replacing the alternator.
After about 85k miles, I started noticing a shudder when driving on the interstate highway. At about 100k miles it wouldn't pass emissions, I took it to two independent shops, but they could not diagnose the problem. My Ford dealership correctly fixed the problem (clogged EGR ports) for $10 in parts and $390 in labor. This was the first major fix I learned how to DIY, as it has to be repeated every 30k mi from this point forward.
At 150k I noticed a lot of oil in the intake plenum, and the engine is now using ~1 quart between oil changes.
At 200k I developed a leak in the transmission (during which I ran it low on fluid for a few 100 miles). The transmission failed shortly after this, and I replaced it with a used transmission (bad choice). Less than 1000 miles before the main seal failed and I had the transmission rebuilt by a local rebuider. The shudder noticed many miles before has been identified as due to TCC lockup chatter. The rebuilder could not make it go away, even after a second (pro-bono) rebuild.
At 310k, it is now using 2 quarts oil per tank of gas. The transmission now has an "event" where it will no longer shift beyond 2nd gear. We drove it for another 3k in this mode for short trips on local roads. Between all the above, I decide to DIY a complete rebuild of the engine and transmission. It took 9 months, and was completed in May of this year. I now have 318k on the vehicle. No more shudder, no more oil consumption, and it is time now for the first oil change since the rebuild.
I don't know if this van is worse than other brands... I've heard bad things about the Chrysler vans, particularly the transmissions. I believe Honda has a good product, but the VTEC engine "scares" me given the extra complexity. Also, I think the Honda brand is more costly to purchase as well as replacement parts.
Of course, all the normal wear and tear items have been replaced (suspension, rotors, brakes, plugs, wires, pulleys, wheel bearings, exhaust (cat, muffler and pipes), alternator (2x), etc.) I still have the original PS pump, steering rack, & AC compressor. During the engine rebuild I replaced the water pump, oil pump, DPFE sensor, and EGR valve (all originals).
Unusual replacements have been: AC high pressure pipe (corrosion), Rear heating control switch (clogged), GEM (repaired), Sound system speakers (rotted foam), and both runner control motors.
Given that you're in the south you may not have to worry about some of the corrosion issues that some have dealt with (sub-frame and rear axle). If you need a van, and DIY is within you it's not the worst choice you can make.
Purchased 1996 Windstar GL new from dealer. During the first year I had one "big" issue: The battery light would blink or come on steady intermittently, but never when I had it at the dealer for service. It was never resolved by the dealer, and never caused any problems until many years later when the light came on but was ignored when the alternator failed. This problem has gone away since replacing the alternator.
After about 85k miles, I started noticing a shudder when driving on the interstate highway. At about 100k miles it wouldn't pass emissions, I took it to two independent shops, but they could not diagnose the problem. My Ford dealership correctly fixed the problem (clogged EGR ports) for $10 in parts and $390 in labor. This was the first major fix I learned how to DIY, as it has to be repeated every 30k mi from this point forward.
At 150k I noticed a lot of oil in the intake plenum, and the engine is now using ~1 quart between oil changes.
At 200k I developed a leak in the transmission (during which I ran it low on fluid for a few 100 miles). The transmission failed shortly after this, and I replaced it with a used transmission (bad choice). Less than 1000 miles before the main seal failed and I had the transmission rebuilt by a local rebuider. The shudder noticed many miles before has been identified as due to TCC lockup chatter. The rebuilder could not make it go away, even after a second (pro-bono) rebuild.
At 310k, it is now using 2 quarts oil per tank of gas. The transmission now has an "event" where it will no longer shift beyond 2nd gear. We drove it for another 3k in this mode for short trips on local roads. Between all the above, I decide to DIY a complete rebuild of the engine and transmission. It took 9 months, and was completed in May of this year. I now have 318k on the vehicle. No more shudder, no more oil consumption, and it is time now for the first oil change since the rebuild.
I don't know if this van is worse than other brands... I've heard bad things about the Chrysler vans, particularly the transmissions. I believe Honda has a good product, but the VTEC engine "scares" me given the extra complexity. Also, I think the Honda brand is more costly to purchase as well as replacement parts.
Of course, all the normal wear and tear items have been replaced (suspension, rotors, brakes, plugs, wires, pulleys, wheel bearings, exhaust (cat, muffler and pipes), alternator (2x), etc.) I still have the original PS pump, steering rack, & AC compressor. During the engine rebuild I replaced the water pump, oil pump, DPFE sensor, and EGR valve (all originals).
Unusual replacements have been: AC high pressure pipe (corrosion), Rear heating control switch (clogged), GEM (repaired), Sound system speakers (rotted foam), and both runner control motors.
Given that you're in the south you may not have to worry about some of the corrosion issues that some have dealt with (sub-frame and rear axle). If you need a van, and DIY is within you it's not the worst choice you can make.
scubacat
11-17-2014, 09:51 PM
Question - what was the condition of the water pump when you replaced it? We're the impellers still in decent shape or had they corroded down somewhat?
tomj76
11-17-2014, 11:48 PM
The water pump looked OK, a little corrosion, but no noticeable change in form or shape. I think it was leaking from the seal. A few years before (maybe 5 yrs???) I took it to a Ford dealership to look for a coolant leak, and they found the seal was leaking then. They quoted $1000 to replace the pump. Instead I added some stop leak to the coolant which worked very well. By the time I rebuilt the engine it seemed that it had started leaking again, so given that I had an 18 yr old water pump with 310k mile on it and the engine was out, I decided to replace it while it was easy rather than waiting until it went bad.
Too bad I didn't do the same with the fuel pump, because that failed within 1500 mi of putting the vehicle back on the road!
Too bad I didn't do the same with the fuel pump, because that failed within 1500 mi of putting the vehicle back on the road!
MarPac
11-19-2014, 04:06 PM
profKen> as I remember well the 2003 Windstar has better type of AXOD tranny AX4N. There were bigger changes while the older type up to 2003 was made as sequentional. Some internal parts changes to pistons, brain and so on. Sequentional type of AXOD shifts 4-3-2 while non sequentional might shift 4-2 directly. Tranny can drive more miles without rebuild so 200kmiles should be OK. Take care of another parts, engine subframe corrosion (control arm bushing mount, subframe to body rear mount!), rear axle corrosion, these two parts are the worst on Windstars 99-> In order to be sure checking the PCM with diagnostic is a must.
profKenn
11-22-2014, 01:28 PM
Thanks for all your posts. It's a very clean van. Just trying to decide to take the plunge. The trans may be on the last leg of its journey, and if so, then 200k for an original trans is GREAT in my book. Love these vans, the styling, ride, etc. Have had 2 before. New vehicles are so high, even slightly used ones. I have checked around with a local trans shop that has good reputation and he quoted me $1600 to rebuild if necessary, which is taking it out and putting it back in, too. That didn't seem to bad. I can get the van for $1500. I think I may drive it today.
My wife had a 91 cougar with the 3.8 that went 243k on the original motor and trans without doing anything major to the motor or trans. We gave it away to a relative. Alas, wish I had it back! :-)
Appreciate all these forums.
My wife had a 91 cougar with the 3.8 that went 243k on the original motor and trans without doing anything major to the motor or trans. We gave it away to a relative. Alas, wish I had it back! :-)
Appreciate all these forums.
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