Transmission Flush Question

I think I've read every single post on this forum about transmission flushing. I'm pretty sure I have it down, the only thing I have a question about is plugging up the line. Once I remove the transmission line from the transmission, I have to plug up the port on the transmission correct? What is something safe I can use to plug it? One thread someone mentioned using a P/S Flush kit, but I can't find one of those anywhere.

are you flushing the trans or simply trying to drain it? When I drain my 2000, I don't plug it as the process really involves pumping the old fluid out, replacing, then pumping again. (this method is detailed much more elsewhere). FWIW, I wouldn't be using any flush agents or trying to scrub the trans... there are horror stories when this is done professionally or diy.. I'd just drop the pan, replace filter, clean the magnet, reinstall the pan, fill, then pump the remaining ~12 litres out via the method others have detailed.,

Yeah, I was just going to pump out the trans pan, drop it, clean it, change the filter, then use the van's pump to pump out the rest, while adding more of course. I have 18 qts of transmission fluid...planned on using about 15.

However, I have come across another problem and will probably wait on the transmission. I did a coolant flush, day before yesterday, using the radiator drain plug, the "quick connect" port, the upper radiator hose, and I disconnected the rear heater core and flushed through it and back up through to the front. I put everything back together and have been "burping" the system, but now it seems like my engine has developed some sort of "wobble" or miss. It sounds exactly like Ed Strong's problem here http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=885567&highlight=engine+wobble. Turned out to be his harmonic balancer/crank pulley.

How can a coolant flush cause these problems? The van was running excellent up until this point. I just replaced the plugs with Autolite DP, the wires with Motorcraft, I've checked and checked for a vaccuum leak. I did the EGR test talked about in the post above and it seems to be working correctly. I just changed the DPFE sensor with the upgraded Motorcraft one. My van has a "rattle" coming from underneath, and until yesterday I couldn't figure out what it was, but am pretty sure it is the catalytic converter coming from Bank 2 side. Could this cause a problem? The reason I ask is when I try and run an KOER test I get a P1408 (Exhaust Gas Recirculatio Flow Out of Selft Test Range).

I also still have the PO174 code even after doing the Lower Intake manifold and Isolator bolt fix, so there is a problem somewhere else. I've cleaned the MAF and IAC.

I just got a new OBDII scanner so I'm not completely familiar with it yet. I read the manual yesterday but I still don't fully understand the Freeze Frame info:

Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) bank 1 = 3.9%
Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) B1 = 7.8%
STFT B2 = 14.1%
LTFT B2 = 14.1%

Why is B1 so different from B2? And having a lean condition on B2 (P0174) is that why the fuel trim is so high as compared to B1?

Sorry for the ramble and rapid fire questions.

With the engine running, spray some water or carb cleaner around the intake. When you hit the vacuum leak, the engine idle will change noticeably.

Also, double check your spark plug wire connections. One time, my #1 plug wire had worked loose from the coil pack side when I did some maintenance and was causing the engine to run pretty horribly (for obvious reasons).

I decided to go ahead and check the plugs and wires first today. Plug #3 was loose (of course it had to be on the back side) and when I pulled my socket off of it, the tip of the socket had oil on it. I pulled the plug out and the plug was clean, but it had a little oil around the hex part where the socket fits. I felt all around the plug hole and head to see if I could find anymore oil, but there wasn't any. I suppose this could have been part of the problem. I cleaned it and put it back in--snugly this time--and checked to make sure I had put all the wires on in the correct order. Everything there seems fine. The engine seems to run a little better now that I have the plug in securely, but it still has the "wobble." I'm thinking about recording it and putting a video on here to make sure I'm not just being obsessive cause I'm starting to wonder if there is really something wrong or not....

As far as finding a vacuum leak...I sprayed every vacuum hose, every connection, both the upper and lower intake manifolds where they meet (as best as I could), and I didn't get any kind of idle variance.

I know in wiswinds post he says that the P0174 code can be caused by vacuum leaks, fuel injectors or fuel delivery, and MAF (which I just cleaned). I just changed the fuel filter today while I was out there. I also noticed that when the van is running, I can hear a bubbling/gurgling/sucking (?) sound come from the gas tank. It's very quiet and I have to have my head under the van to hear it; is that normal? I did somewhat of a fuel pressure test on it the other day and with the ignition on-engine off the pressure was extremely low, but with the engine running it was normal. I'm not exactly sure what all that means, but maybe it has something to do with it? Could it be a malfunctioning O2 sensor?

Sorry again for so many questions. Thanks for your help.

And sorry also for getting off topic of the original post...wasn't sure if I should've started a new one.

Update: I went back out after my last post and did another spray test to check for a vacuum leak, making sure I didn't miss something and still nothing...I was using brake parts cleaner if that makes a difference...I suppose it would do the same thing.

And my suggestion that maybe there isn't anything wrong and it's just me...scratch that. There is definitely something wrong. I just went to the store and back home and there is a miss or something. It wobbles/jitters/shakes at low RPMs and if I accelerate hard it has a shutter-type acceleration...almost like it's struggling to go. It's not awful, but I can feel that it isn't smooth like it was a few days ago. I put some more B12 in it just now thinking maybe removing the fuel rail I might have gotten some debris on the injectors or something. I was thinking it also might could be the ignition coil.

The thing is, it all started after doing a coolant flush. When I did the flush the engine was warm--not too hot to touch though--could something have warped?

All I know is I feel like this guy --->:banghead:

FWIW I just removed the ignition coil and checked the ohms on each pin and plug connection and all check OK. I have read in this forum and others that it can test OK but be bad.

Still no codes either...I'm stumped...