Please tell me its something simple

I'll start by saying this is my first post and I really appreciate the information you guys are sharing hear. I have learned a lot of valuable info and hopefully can learn much more. I have read just about all I can find on most of the problems I've been experiencing, but I have a question concerning a few more things.

I just bought the van not long ago as I desperately needed one. It has extremely high miles on it (228k), but I got it really cheap. I went and had my codes pulled today (no check engine light on) and my jaw hit the floor. I had fifteen codes come up and so I wanted to ask about them.

First, I had the usual P0171/P0174 and the P1401, which I figure is the TSB Isolator bolt fix and the P1401 the DPFE that is also mentioned in the leckemby guide. Not too worried about those guys as I had planned on doing that fix in the spring.

Now...I also got P0305 which is the #5 cylinder misfire. It seems that dirty injectors cause this from what I've read. Will look into that.

My main question comes from the next few codes. They are all C codes: 1185, 1194, 1198, 1210, 1214, 1242, 1246, 1250, and 1254. From what I understand, these are all ABS codes. So instead of looking up all nine codes, I wanted to ask if you guys thought changing the ABS control module would clear up most of this mess. I need to clean the wheel sensors and check the master cylinder fluid (I think that's what I read). I honestly don't even know how to do that. My ABS light has been on since I bought the thing. It comes on within two minutes of starting the van...without even moving, applying the brakes or anything.

It also had the B1318 code. I think it is low battery voltage. I was also thinking this could cause most of the codes from above. About to go check the voltage with a multimeter to see what I got.

Lastly, my transmission won't go into overdrive. The O/D light was blinking, but I guess AutoZone's code reader couldn't pull the stored code. Could any of this cause that problem? I have read in other places that random things can cause this problem (i.e. MAF sensor, even the thermostat on some vehicles). My hope is that it's a sensor and not the transmission.

So here's the deal, I got $1200 in the van and trying to decide if I want to fix it or not. Is it worth it to do the fixes it may take or should I try and sell it for as much as I can and move on? Sorry in advance for such a long post, and I know the rules state one topic per post, but I didn't want to start 15 posts.

Thanks in advance,
Lee

Hi! Welcome to the forum!

Just checking: What model year is your van? I presume it's one of the 3.8 models that is affected by the infamous isolator bolt problem, but let's make sure.

At 228K miles, I'd suspect that something may have been done about the P0171/P0174 issue in the past. One quick check: What color is the valve cover on the front cylinder bank? The original valve cover was painted black. If the full TSB was done, the valve cover was replaced with an updated version which (in my experience with my '00) is unpainted, and has a typical aluminum silvery look (well, until it gets dirty).

In any case, the isolator bolt problem is a reasonable DIY project for someone familiar with automotive repair. I did the isolator bolt fix myself on my van - and have had no further problems with those error codes; the van has 170K on it now.

Yes, 1401 is generally solved by replacing the DPFE (which is easy to do). Hint: Any replacement DPFE that's made of cast metal will fail in short order. The redesigned plastic-cased DPFE does much better. After being disappointed with a aftermarket metal sensor, I finally paid for the real redesigned Motorcraft part - which has worked fine.

Regarding ABS: Several years of Windstar models are notorious for failures in the electronic portion of the ABS module. I replaced the electronic portion of my ABS module (*without* removing the hydraulic portion; my pictures include a dead module I bought on eBay, which ended up being a learning aid) some years ago with a new Ford module - and ABS is still working fine. Since that time, there are now services that can repair the electronic portion of the module for reasonable money (apparently, there's a specific solder joint that fails within the module). Start your researching on eBay by searching for "Windstar ABS repair." See pics of my ABS project here:

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/e39701/library/Windstar%20ABS%20Module%20Replacement%20Project?so rt=9&page=1

Personally, I wouldn't spend much time tracking down individual ABS error codes. It's almost certainly the module itself. You may also have problems with individual wheel sensors or their wiring, but it will probably be difficult to track those down until the module itself works reliably.

Note that the ABS module in under the van; basically just beneath where the driver's seat is mounted. If the van has very much corrosion underneath, it will probably be very difficult to remove the electronic portion of the ABS module from the hydraulic portion without breaking something (in my pics, you'll see just how tight it is - and mine was pretty clean when I did it). Of course, the moment you open the brake line fittings on the module, the job get pretty messy and time consuming.

I recently had an engine miss problem that ended up being a bad #5 fuel injector. Read some details here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1121898

I don't know if there's really something specific that causes injector #5 to fail - but I find it curious that we're starting to notice a pattern.

Yes, you need consistent, correct alternator voltage for everything else to work well.

I don't have background on the transmission issue; someone else may chime in.

For our family, the Windstar - in spite of the some of its weaknesses - has worked very well. In particular, the van is well suited for trailer towing. Ours has thousands of miles towing a small utility trailer - and several thousand miles towing a 2500 pound GVWR popup camper (including three 1000-to-2000 mile camping trips).

Just checking: What model year is your van? I presume it's one of the 3.8 models that is affected by the infamous isolator bolt problem, but let's make sure.
It is a 2000...3.8

One quick check: What color is the valve cover on the front cylinder bank?
Unfortunately, it's black.

After being disappointed with a aftermarket metal sensor, I finally paid for the real redesigned Motorcraft part - which has worked fine.
Will definitely go with the Motorcraft then!

See pics of my ABS project here:

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/e39701/library/Windstar%20ABS%20Module%20Replacement%20Project?so rt=9&page=1
Thanks...will check that out! By the way, how much is that control module? I was looking a Ford parts (part #2C219) and it says 823 bucks! Please tell me that is the wrong part.

Yes, you need consistent, correct alternator voltage for everything else to work well.
After posting, I went and put a multimeter on it. Before starting it was 12v exactly. After starting it was 13.2v. Under load (a/c on) 12.7 then up to 13.2v. After turning the van off (ran for about 1-2 mintues) 12.3v. Not sure what exactly is correct. I was thinking it should be in the 14v range while running but I could be wrong.

I don't have background on the transmission issue; someone else may chime in.
Hopefully so. Of course they will probably tell me to go and get the code read somewhere.

So all-in-all, do you think it is worth the fix? I think (hope) the transmission is just a sensor...maybe the VSS or a solenoid. Something besides having to replace the transmission.

Thanks,
Lee

I would suggest replacing the isolator bolts, clean the EGR jets ... pulling the battery cable in the process... replace plugs, cables, etc ....after those repairs; re-scan for codes. You may be surprised at how many codes disappear.

...and BTW, the code readers that AutoZone uses are not very likely to include "chassis" or "brake" codes .... only OBDII codes, which have to do with emissions.

I plan on trying to do all that in the next couple of weeks. Would you change the coil as well? I've read other forums that there are problems with it, so while I'm at it...

And if the code readers at AutoZone don't read those codes, then why are they getting them on the code reader? I'm not sure I follow what you mean...

I was just looking over wiswind's "General Windstar Information" post again, and I saw "IF you have no cruise control, a very common cause is failure of the brake pressure switch on the bottom of the master cylinder." I actually don't have cruise control. Could this switch be the cause of the ABS light and codes? Plus it is leaking fluid because I just had to put some in it the other day because the red BRAKE light was coming on...

When you go shopping for parts for the van (Spark Plugs, Wires, etc). If possible I would remove the Coil, the Alternator and the Battery off from the van and go to AutoZone and have them test each component to make sure they're working up to specs.

If you don't feel satisfied with their tests or would like a second opinion then take them to AdvanceAuto aswell. Most of the time sensors act erratic when they don't get the power they need to function properly... Don't make the mistake of throwing parts at it chasing a problem that's being caused by a lack of power/amps...!

Hi! Welcome to the forum!

... What color is the valve cover on the front cylinder bank? The original valve cover was painted black. If the full TSB was done, the valve cover was replaced with an updated version which (in my experience with my '00) is unpainted, and has a typical aluminum silvery look (well, until it gets dirty).



my .02... that silver valve cover is a dorman part. ford revised valve cover is still black, it just won't have the manufacturing build sticker the original cover had. only way to tell is to look at the internal baffle and there is a thread on that.

Ed Strong,
Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot and see what comes up. Luckily I have an AutoZone, Advance and O'reilly within in two miles of my house. I'll see what they say.

parkerb,
How can I get to this internal baffle you speak of to check and see? I know that my van has all the symptoms of the Isolator issue. A lot of times when I'm sitting at a stoplight, I have to put the van in Neutral to keep it from stalling and it lurches forward something serious. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the IAC valve, but it didn't do any good. I've also read that the DPFE (I think that's right) cause similar symptoms, which is another code I got.

parkerb,
OK, I re-read the leckemby guide (which is great by the way) and I suppose you are meaning the baffle that is within the plenum that he talks about?

I have my '99's 3.8 running very well ... at 375K miles and expecting more. I took a different approach on the internal baffle found in the upper intake manifold (I did not buy the upgraded, improved piece.) I stuck with the original piece, but I broke away the internal baffle, breaking all the molded-in retaining clips. Next the baffle was pushed downward into the middle-spacer and RTV'd/glued in place. I wish you would consider this solution .... you can always changed it later. I think it is a better solution than the Ford "upgraded" part. A bit difficult to explain why, but my EGR jets now stay free of build-up.

12Ounce,
I would love to get 375K out of my van, but I highly doubt it's going to happen. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep it and tackled the issues at hand, cause there are several others too. I got a bad front wheel bearing, I need to flush and change all the fluids, cause who knows when that was done last?? It has a messed up blend door actuator. Needs new tires....LOL...see what I mean. So I have a hope somewhere inside that I can fix the Isolator issue, the wheel bearing, and change the fluids and pray that the transmission issue is a sensor, bad fluid, or something cheap. If not, I'm going to have more in the van than it's worth.

And as far as your way of fixing the baffle, once I get it out I'll look it over and try and figure out exactly what you mean. I can't picture it as I haven't seen it yet. That isn't a part that get's replaced anyway is it?

Oh yeah, and one more question. I do only city driving, and the farthest I ever really drive is about 10-12 miles round trip. On this tank of gas, I've made it 210 miles and it's down to like a 1/16th of a tank. That's like 10 mpg...Is anyone else experiencing this? Talk about crappy gas mileage...

Your PCM is probably in a "default" mode ... with all the codes that currently exist. I would wait until they are corrected to pass judgment on the mileage achieved. That said, I can count on 15 - 17 MPG "all around" ... and, yes, it will go much lower in stop-and-go city driving. On long expressway trips, I can count on 20 plus.

I think I have fixed nearly everything on this car... but no wheel bearings (YET). The blend door, not just the actuator, I am now an expert on. I did a tranny replacement and "light" engine overhaul at 215k miles. Did all the work myself but used a Ford reman tranny. The engine now could use a refreshing ... not sure when its going to get it.

I have put far more money and effort in this vehicle than it is "worth". But, for me, the vehicle is a "ride", not an investment ... so I spend, as needed, to keep my ride safe and reliable. My cost of ownership, per mile, must be about as good/low as it can get... except perhaps for gasoline consumption.

No, the internal "baffle" (or air-horns/internal manifold) is not a separate listed part ... but it is "separate". It was intended to remain clipped in-place forever inside the intake-manifold-upper. But the clips broke over time and thus the problems and upgrades. I realized that this part should be attached/sealed to the "spacer", not the "upper". So I made the changes. This will make sense once you get inside.

I completely agree that your car is your "ride" and not an investment. I am a firm believer in taking care of what you got...That being said, I'm not sure what it's going to take yet to get it to where I completely rely on it. I'm not so much worried about the Isolator problem as it is a relatively cheap fix. My only worry is the transmission. Of course I suppose if I replace it, I am starting new (many more miles as long as the engine doesn't crap out)...I don't even know, though, if I have the equipment necessary for such a task.

When you say "'light' engine overhaul", what exactly does that mean? Should it be something I should consider. I'm not the most advanced mechanic, but I am confident that I can fix pretty much anything...

At the time I was primarily replacing the transmission. I dropped the sub frame using long "bolts" made from all-thread rod. Once the sub-frame was down, I opened up the engine to replace all the seals and gaskets .. also to do a valve job. I sent the heads out for valve re-facing and new stem seals. I replaced the piston rings and crank bearings ... but could have done without perhaps. No block machining. It felt good to start up the engine with pistons de-carbonized and all new seals.

BTW, the Ford remanufactured tranny came with all new electrics inside (I looked). I figure it included all the upgrades known to be needed. It was even full of fresh fluid and included a new torque converter. Cost about $2000, exchange ... but that was "back then".

Since reading your original post, I have been reading about rebuilds and such...I'm not sure what most of that stuff you are saying means:uhoh:. I'm sure it does feel nice to start up a fresh engine and drive with a new transmission. The problem will be convincing my wife to let go of $3000! But before I even get to that point I supposed I'll do the simple fixes at hand and try and find someone that can read transmission codes. May just take it to the Ford dealership in the next town. Thanks for the info!

Oh and using your threaded rod idea, did you need a car lift to get the van up high enough? Is that how it works, or can you jack it up enough to get the engine out. Once we get into engine and transmission removal, we are going far beyond my knowledge...

I did have the front end of the car a foot or so off the ground. I removed/reinstalled the cylinder heads in place. The front wheels and struts were removed before the sub-frame was dropped. Then there was plenty of room to drag the whole thing, complete with axles and hubs, out from under the car ... to the right ... atop a couple of wooden 4x4's.
.
I took the short block away from the tranny first. Wrestling the tranny out and back in was the worst ... I was working alone. That thing is a beast!

I used one floor jack and several jack stands. I also had a short "barrel" jack.

I bet that was a job single handed. I got a couple of jacks and jack stands, but I don't think I have the space in my little shop for that. However, I did run it by my wife that we might could do what you have mentioned (light overhaul and reman. transmission--if that's the problem), and she is already looking for another van...She doesn't think it is worth it to fix, so.......

At this point I suppose I'll try and get the transmission codes read and go from there...Thanks again for all your input

OK, I ordered the Dorman valve cover repair kit today so hopefully it will be here next week. I had another question that I wanted to ask so I can try and have everything ready for the job...

I have been reading on here, and I know wiswind's post says that the proper plug is Double Platinum. Now, is there a big difference in brands of plugs? AutoZone has Autolite, Bosch, AC Delco, NGK (which I don't really want to pay $14/plug), and Champion. Does it make a difference as to which one I pick, or what are you guys recommendations? I read somewhere in another forum, that someone said make sure to get a plug with a heat range of 5...the only one that has a heat range (that is listed...only NGK and AC Delco list ) that high is of course the NGK...

And I've also read that there are discrepancies in the plug gap...0.044 and 0.054 I think are what I read. Anyone know for sure which is the correct gap?

Thanks in advance

I've had good results with AutoLite double platinum plugs. They're reasonably priced ($4-5 each) and available at several popular auto part retailers. It is my understanding that AutoLite manufactures Motorcraft spark plugs, so I believe they're a quality plug.

I would use the plug part number recommended (APP105 for my van; APP765 was listed as an alternate). I didn't pay extra for the AutoLite Iridium plugs.

Windstar plug gap is printed on a sticker under the hood (just in front of the engine, on my '00). Apparently, Ford tweaked the plug gap depending on some engine variables, because every Windstar service manual I've seen says "See underhood sticker" for plug gap. IIRC (I just replaced the plugs in my van), the gap for my '00 Windstar 3.8 is 0.052"-0.056". The old plugs in my van were also AutoLite double-plat. They exhibited typical wear - but I checked the gap on a couple of them, and they were still within the 0.052"-0.056" range, so I'm pleased with how they've worked over time.

Warning: These plugs aren't pre-gapped. Be very careful when gapping the plug to avoid damage, particularly to the little platinum contact on the ground electrode. Out-of-the-box, my new plugs were slightly under the gap I needed, so I had to open them up several thousandths.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check for the sticker today. I'll try the Autolites and see how they go...They are running a rebate right now as well...$2/plug which brings them down to the $2.50/plug range...not bad!

Make SURE to get double platinum....with the platinum enhancement on the center electrode AND the ground tab.
Platinum on the ground tab is what makes them "double platinum" as FORD intended and it is critical for even wear of the plugs between the front and rear bank of cylinders.
On one side, the center electrode wears faster, and on the other side, the ground tab wears faster.
This is because the polarity of the spark is positive on 1 bank of cylinders and negative on the other bank of cylinders.

I am mentioning this so that you do NOT get the multi-pronged plugs that do not seem to do well in our windstar application.

Make SURE to get double platinum....with the platinum enhancement on the center electrode AND the ground tab.
10-4

I am mentioning this so that you do NOT get the multi-pronged plugs that do not seem to do well in our windstar application.
The plugs phil-l mention are single prong, double platinum, so I'll try 'em out.

OK...I finally got all my parts in...I think. I got the Isolator bolt repair kit, or Valve cover repair kit (Dorman)...whatever it is. I figured while I'm that far and seeing as these vans have problems with the lower intake manifold gasket, I went ahead and got those too (Dorman--I saw a lot of you guys use Felpro, but I had already ordered the Dorman). I got new plugs (Autolite Double Platinum) and wires (Motorcraft). I got a new thermostat (Motorcraft). I have 18 quarts of transmission fluid (Mobil One Synthetic) and a filter (Motorcraft). New oil (Mobil One 5w-20 synthetic high mileage) and oil filter (Motorcraft). And I got a test kit from Blackstone to send off and see what my oil looks like...Now, a few questions...

I also bought those little IMRC bushings and when I went out and looked at my van to see if the original ones were still there (of course they weren't) I found one rod (the one on the front of the engine) lying loose and the one on the back side is completely missing...what do I do about that?

That's all I can think of at the moment...Thanks in advance for the help

UPDATE:
After much research, I think I found all the answers...