Some Tips for Lower Intake Gasket Replacement Windstar 1999 3.8L
smata67
10-22-2013, 03:16 PM
Just did my 1999 3.8L Ford Windstar’s lower intake gasket replacement, because it was using about 1 quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Here are some tips:
Parts needed:
You will need the lower intake gasket, of course. Fel Pro MS98011 T-1 is what I used, impressive quality. It has a very substantial steel frame (original and some replacements are plastic). Includes upper gaskets and isolation bolt grommets, as well as the gasket sealant you need to do the corners. This is a premium replacement gasket, part of the Perma Dry Plus series, highly recommended, there isn’t a better replacement out there. Note installation, the FRONT of the gaskets face the pulleys.
IMRC Bushings: F5RZ-9F955-AB. Four needed from dealer. One of mine was gone and one other just snapped off. These replacements are much heftier than the originals. This is an essential thing to do when you are in there, save yourself a trip and have these handy to replace the originals. About $8 apiece, expensive, but will likely need to be done.
You will need a new gasket for the EGR valve, part number EVG32 at Advance Auto. About $4.
O-rings for the fuel injectors, 6 needed. These come 4 to a box, so you need two boxes ES70599. $4.29 a box.
One of the inner bolts (longer ones) on the lower intake was corroded, wonder it did not snap. Ford no longer carries them. They do carry the shorter, outer ones. I got a hex head (as opposed to original hat type) at Advance Auto Item 99061060. It is an M6-1.0x60mm, hardened bolt. You will need a washer for it, I don’t have that part number. This bolt was not easy to find.
More tips:
You will need to do an oil change after you complete the job, as coolant will drain into the oil when the lower intake is lifted. You could also very carefully lift it, keeping it level and slide something underneath, chances are you will need to change the oil.
A click type torque wrench is essential, as the beam type is too bulky for all the bolts (many) needing proper torqueing. You have bolts on the lower intake, the upper intake, and the cover. Lots.
Removing the upper intake cover is a cinch, once you figure out you can unbolt the IAC (2 bolts). You then slide out to the right and cock the assembly forward and it’s off. This little tip is a LIFESAVER.
Dealing with the fuel rail was easy, 4 bolts, 2 per side, wiggle it while pulling up and set aside. You do not need to disassemble any further. Good idea to replace the o-rings, though. Per the Haynes manual, these are lightly oiled prior to insertion, they slid right in on re-assembly. By the way, all hold down tabs for the electronic connectors on the injectors broke, I just re-secured them down during assembly with 6” zip ties (black).
There is a useful video on youtube by a member here (jonreyna), do a search for Windstar Lower Intake Gasket. The job is MUCH more involved than shown in the video, but most things were not that hard to access (unlike my Avalon). It was just a long process.
Parts needed:
You will need the lower intake gasket, of course. Fel Pro MS98011 T-1 is what I used, impressive quality. It has a very substantial steel frame (original and some replacements are plastic). Includes upper gaskets and isolation bolt grommets, as well as the gasket sealant you need to do the corners. This is a premium replacement gasket, part of the Perma Dry Plus series, highly recommended, there isn’t a better replacement out there. Note installation, the FRONT of the gaskets face the pulleys.
IMRC Bushings: F5RZ-9F955-AB. Four needed from dealer. One of mine was gone and one other just snapped off. These replacements are much heftier than the originals. This is an essential thing to do when you are in there, save yourself a trip and have these handy to replace the originals. About $8 apiece, expensive, but will likely need to be done.
You will need a new gasket for the EGR valve, part number EVG32 at Advance Auto. About $4.
O-rings for the fuel injectors, 6 needed. These come 4 to a box, so you need two boxes ES70599. $4.29 a box.
One of the inner bolts (longer ones) on the lower intake was corroded, wonder it did not snap. Ford no longer carries them. They do carry the shorter, outer ones. I got a hex head (as opposed to original hat type) at Advance Auto Item 99061060. It is an M6-1.0x60mm, hardened bolt. You will need a washer for it, I don’t have that part number. This bolt was not easy to find.
More tips:
You will need to do an oil change after you complete the job, as coolant will drain into the oil when the lower intake is lifted. You could also very carefully lift it, keeping it level and slide something underneath, chances are you will need to change the oil.
A click type torque wrench is essential, as the beam type is too bulky for all the bolts (many) needing proper torqueing. You have bolts on the lower intake, the upper intake, and the cover. Lots.
Removing the upper intake cover is a cinch, once you figure out you can unbolt the IAC (2 bolts). You then slide out to the right and cock the assembly forward and it’s off. This little tip is a LIFESAVER.
Dealing with the fuel rail was easy, 4 bolts, 2 per side, wiggle it while pulling up and set aside. You do not need to disassemble any further. Good idea to replace the o-rings, though. Per the Haynes manual, these are lightly oiled prior to insertion, they slid right in on re-assembly. By the way, all hold down tabs for the electronic connectors on the injectors broke, I just re-secured them down during assembly with 6” zip ties (black).
There is a useful video on youtube by a member here (jonreyna), do a search for Windstar Lower Intake Gasket. The job is MUCH more involved than shown in the video, but most things were not that hard to access (unlike my Avalon). It was just a long process.
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