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2002 windstar Battery light came on tried two alternators still On.


desimunda
10-21-2013, 06:22 PM
The alternator just doesn't charge enough. Once I rev up high I am able to charge and all lights that come on dashboard(brake, ABS, airbag) go away.

Tried one new alternator and one used one.

any body get to the bottom of this?

12Ounce
10-21-2013, 07:39 PM
The alternator just doesn't charge enough. Once I rev up high I am able to charge and all lights that come on dashboard(brake, ABS, airbag) go away.

Tried one new alternator and one used one.

any body get to the bottom of this?

Have them bench-test the alternator before you leave the store... I've had two test bad right out of the box. (AutoZone)

desimunda
10-21-2013, 08:22 PM
so as far as I can tell the battery is OK. After some highway driving battery has a charge of 12.48volts.

the B+ on the alternator has the same voltage so the positive cable and fusible links are OK too I would assume.

me thinks has to be the alternator or the PCM?

anybody know where the PCM is located?

phil-l
10-21-2013, 08:41 PM
What voltage are you seeing with the engine running? A properly-charging alternator paired with a healthy battery and correct wiring should mean you see on the order of 13.8 to 14.2V, measured at the battery terminals.

desimunda
10-21-2013, 09:08 PM
What voltage are you seeing with the engine running? A properly-charging alternator paired with a healthy battery and correct wiring should mean you see on the order of 13.8 to 14.2V, measured at the battery terminals.

only seem to get this with high RPM. but that is the case with 3 alternators! after I get them tested tomorrow I think I will know more..

desimunda
10-22-2013, 09:24 AM
so bench testing showed both alternators are not putting out enough amps.

so on to trying out the 3rd one which I should get tomorrow.

thanks all.

desimunda
10-24-2013, 09:15 AM
so bench testing showed both alternators are not putting out enough amps.

so on to trying out the 3rd one which I should get tomorrow.

thanks all.

Got another new one out of the box and still got battery light.

12Ounce
10-24-2013, 09:18 AM
Was it bench tested before installing?

desimunda
10-24-2013, 09:35 AM
Was it bench tested before installing?

no i did not. are you saying the van can negatively affect the alternator?

12Ounce
10-24-2013, 09:40 AM
no i did not. are you saying the van can negatively affect the alternator?

Of course the van can destroy the alternator ... but it's more likely the alternator was "just bad". But how will you ever know if you don't first test the alternator before installing? That's what I was encouraging you to do... bench test even if new!

desimunda
10-24-2013, 09:42 AM
Of course the van can destroy the alternator ... but it's more likely the alternator was "just bad". But how will you ever know if you don't first test the alternator before installing? That's what I was encouraging you to do... bench test even if new!

I guess I will have to with the next one. I have a small battery/alternator tester and had that plugged into the 12v outlet and it showed the alternator intermittently unable to put out more than 13.4 volts.

just curious how can the van negatively affect the alternator this quickly?

phil-l
10-24-2013, 09:47 AM
Are all of these alternators from the same manufacturer/rebuilder?

desimunda
10-24-2013, 09:49 AM
Are all of these alternators from the same manufacturer/rebuilder?

yes TYC brand new apparently and it has a testing page include which might be copied and put in all boxes!

desimunda
10-24-2013, 11:31 AM
So for my new alternator from TYC rated at 135 amps. just found out from ford dealership it should only be a 110amp alternator.

this would burn out the battery earlier but do you guys think the 135amp would not put out enough voltage for the battery light to stay on as it has?

mind you I ran with a TYC since june of last year.

12Ounce
10-24-2013, 12:16 PM
No, it doesn't work that way. More amperage is always better ... up to a huge value. It is only an indication of how much heat the alternator can safely dissipate. The higher the amp rating the more current the van is allowed to draw from it ... while it holds together.

It doesn't necessarily mean that the battery will be charged any more quickly ... the battery has its own internal resistance that limits that ... but it does "allow" the battery to be charged more quickly without harm to the ALTERNATOR.

My current alternator is rated at 165 amp. If a larger one is available when replacement is needed ... I will buy it.

desimunda
10-24-2013, 12:27 PM
Well i ordered another one from 'usa industries' although i'm sure still made in china. Will bench test. Who does that here in the states that you have had good experience with?

Ed_Strong
10-24-2013, 03:39 PM
You can just go to Advance Auto Parts, Napa Auto or AutoZone and they'll do it for free. Just go to which ever is closest to you and tell them you're having issues with your charging system and you just want to rule out the Alternator by testing it.

If they seem incompetent or don't even know how to handle and setup the test machine (happened to me already) then move to the next store, till you get the info you need!

desimunda
10-29-2013, 07:05 PM
So got brand new alternator which was bench tested but light remained on. Got new battery and light is still ON.

I can see the headlights dim intermittently which matches the dimming green(OK condition) light on a 12V alternator tester I have plugged in.

any ideas?

I have checked before and seen no voltage drop going from battery to alternator. so that cable is ok i think.

tomj76
10-29-2013, 10:37 PM
If you measure the voltage between the alternator and the battery positive terminal, you should see a voltage drop of a few millivolts. If not, then there is no current flowing from the alternator. If you put a compass near the wire, it should deflect from north as you move it close to the wire if current is flowing through the wire. The resistance between the alternator output terminal and the battery positive should be almost zero ohms.

desimunda
10-31-2013, 08:28 PM
well after new battery and bit of driving the light is gone...not sure if was alternator on battery.

thanks all

rustydogy
10-31-2013, 10:16 PM
hi just saw your post did you find the problem? ........I had similar problem on 95 ford van , amp light glo other lights and stuff didn't see as bright then alt would quit puten out ,after trying several alternators with internal voltage regulators, /reman/and junkyard last,,, I found bad body ground between frame and body come to find out it was cause of burning up internal regulator , (I didn't think I had a bad ground cause all seemed to work ok ) might worth looking into looking bad grounds

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