Help! Missing Trans fluid during flush
tripletdaddy
09-11-2013, 11:35 PM
I am trying to do the trans flush procedure as described in this and the Taurus forums as they use the same trans, on my 2000 Winny, with 100k miles. Since I already had spliced into the return line to install an aux. cooler, I just disconnected the line coming from and under the radiator. I ran the engine in all of the gears to get all of the fluid that I could, however, I only got 5 qts. that way and 1 qt. from the removed bottom trans pan. There's supposed to be another 6 qts. to come out I understood, but I don't know where it is or how to get it out. The only thing I can think of is the angle of the van on the ramps is too steep as it's already parked on an uphill slope. I did notice an Allen screw or plug on the underside of the trans but I don't want to be wrong taking it out to drain it. Is there possibly a drain plug? Am I maybe connected incorrectly to pump it out with the trans pump? I'll look into if there is trapped fluid in the cooling loop between the trans, rad. cooler, the aux. cooler, and the trans.
Thanks in advance! :)
Thanks in advance! :)
shorod
09-12-2013, 06:29 AM
I'm not sure which procedure for flushing you're referring to. Does it involve feeding fresh fluid in at the same time you're collecting old fluid? If not, that might be part of the problem. Maybe the pump is running dry and therefore unable to push the remainder of the old fluid out. Also, did you confirm the transmission was full before you started the flush process?
-Rod
-Rod
northern piper
09-12-2013, 08:27 AM
yes, the flush procedure involves opening the line, draining the line by running the motor until the stream of trans fluid stops, then refilling what's come out, then running the vehicle again to drain the remainder. Sorry, the quart quantity slips my mind but this discussion has been well documented on this site. Using this procedure will remove the majority of the fluid. I think you likely only got the first part of the draining done with the method you used.
tripletdaddy
09-12-2013, 09:22 AM
Hi again and thanks Shorod and northern piper. That's what I should have done I bet!?!:banghead: Adding fluid back makes sense too now that I think about. :banghead:
That was the procedure I wanted to perform, but what I did find seemed to have omitted that step or they didn't know about it. Duh, I remember that step a long time ago now that you mention it. Oops. I wasn't able to find those posts from back then for some strange reason. That's what I wanted. BTW, dip stick has been full as I have to monitor it when towing as I did the past weekend.
Will proceed from there as instructed! :smile:
That was the procedure I wanted to perform, but what I did find seemed to have omitted that step or they didn't know about it. Duh, I remember that step a long time ago now that you mention it. Oops. I wasn't able to find those posts from back then for some strange reason. That's what I wanted. BTW, dip stick has been full as I have to monitor it when towing as I did the past weekend.
Will proceed from there as instructed! :smile:
12Ounce
09-12-2013, 09:48 AM
You can never empty a transmission once it has been filled ... unless you are willing to totally dismantle it. Too many passages and crevices that will not drain ... not to mention the torque converter. I will add a bit to what is already posted:
1. Disconnect return hose to tranny, place in container. Crank engine while tranny is in P ... stop engine as soon as fluid flow begins to stop (don't tarry ... stop immediately!!). Measure/record carefully the quantity of fluid removed at this point. NOTE: Caution ... do not shift though the gears during this step ... or until "test driving"!
2. (Optional step). Drop pan and clean. Replace filter.
3. Refill tranny with fresh fluid ... put in, at least, two quarts more than was measured in step "1". Crank engine while tranny is in P ... stop engine as soon as fluid flow begins to stop (don't tarry ... stop immediately!!). Notice clearity of waste fluid stream.
4. Repeat "3" until waste fluid stream appears new.
5. Reconnect hoses. Refill tranny with new fluid ... with almost (minus a 1/2 pint) as much fluid as was recorded/removed in step "1". Test drive, check for leaks. Top off properly once tranny fluid is warm.
1. Disconnect return hose to tranny, place in container. Crank engine while tranny is in P ... stop engine as soon as fluid flow begins to stop (don't tarry ... stop immediately!!). Measure/record carefully the quantity of fluid removed at this point. NOTE: Caution ... do not shift though the gears during this step ... or until "test driving"!
2. (Optional step). Drop pan and clean. Replace filter.
3. Refill tranny with fresh fluid ... put in, at least, two quarts more than was measured in step "1". Crank engine while tranny is in P ... stop engine as soon as fluid flow begins to stop (don't tarry ... stop immediately!!). Notice clearity of waste fluid stream.
4. Repeat "3" until waste fluid stream appears new.
5. Reconnect hoses. Refill tranny with new fluid ... with almost (minus a 1/2 pint) as much fluid as was recorded/removed in step "1". Test drive, check for leaks. Top off properly once tranny fluid is warm.
tripletdaddy
09-13-2013, 03:58 AM
Thanks everyone.
Just to confirm, the lower hose on the trans is the return line correct? Is it worth reversing the flow to backflush the two coolers I have? All I have at the bottom of the trans pan, on the tubing, etc. is a very fine, thin layer of dark slime and a thick covering of the same stuck to the magnet. I will clean all of that and replace the filter, but is there anything meaningful for me to look at while I have it open? I have some down-shifting hesitation going into first. Sticking valve? No problems with the others. I've tried several different additives like Lucas to deal with a seal leak, but disappointed that the down-shift problem didn't go away. Would new fluid help fix that problem and some slippage? I climbed Mt. Washington with five adults and I noticed some slippage and leakage at the input shaft/tc, which last did that when pulling a 1500 pound trailer on somewhat steep terrain for about an hour. A 400 mile trip in high heat and what's been said here prompted me to put in my own aux. cooler. Makes me wonder if it's not big enough. :disappoin
12Ounce, you now have me concerned about tarrying and leaving it in park while running the fluid out. I may have broken both of those "do nots" trying to drain the thing out. :banghead: I maybe ran it too long with not much coming out. :crying: Running it through the gears did get more out. I think I got the incorrect impression in one the forums here and from elsewhere that it wasn't so critical to stop the engine just as the fluid stops coming out. Doing that will be somewhat challenging by myself. What would the consequences be of running it too much without the fluid? :headshake:uhoh::frown::moppie:
Just to confirm, the lower hose on the trans is the return line correct? Is it worth reversing the flow to backflush the two coolers I have? All I have at the bottom of the trans pan, on the tubing, etc. is a very fine, thin layer of dark slime and a thick covering of the same stuck to the magnet. I will clean all of that and replace the filter, but is there anything meaningful for me to look at while I have it open? I have some down-shifting hesitation going into first. Sticking valve? No problems with the others. I've tried several different additives like Lucas to deal with a seal leak, but disappointed that the down-shift problem didn't go away. Would new fluid help fix that problem and some slippage? I climbed Mt. Washington with five adults and I noticed some slippage and leakage at the input shaft/tc, which last did that when pulling a 1500 pound trailer on somewhat steep terrain for about an hour. A 400 mile trip in high heat and what's been said here prompted me to put in my own aux. cooler. Makes me wonder if it's not big enough. :disappoin
12Ounce, you now have me concerned about tarrying and leaving it in park while running the fluid out. I may have broken both of those "do nots" trying to drain the thing out. :banghead: I maybe ran it too long with not much coming out. :crying: Running it through the gears did get more out. I think I got the incorrect impression in one the forums here and from elsewhere that it wasn't so critical to stop the engine just as the fluid stops coming out. Doing that will be somewhat challenging by myself. What would the consequences be of running it too much without the fluid? :headshake:uhoh::frown::moppie:
tripletdaddy
09-13-2013, 02:11 PM
Will post results after I drive home or get towed back late Sunday with the camper trailer. :eek: :sadwavey:
tripletdaddy
09-13-2013, 02:24 PM
This is where I got one of a few versions of how to do the flush, which is closer to what I attempted so far.
http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_Flush_your_transmission_at_ home
http://www.taurusclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_Flush_your_transmission_at_ home
12Ounce
09-13-2013, 02:57 PM
Yes, the lower hose ... at least this is so on my '99.
Do not worry with "reverse flushing" .... only when the fluid is very still will anything drop out (such as in a pan)... nothing will drop out in the coolers, the fluid flow is much too high there.
It is not good to run the tranny empty of fluid ... that being said, it is likely you have done little or no harm. I like to use a helper (on the ignition key) for this process. I would just proceed if I were you.
Do not worry with "reverse flushing" .... only when the fluid is very still will anything drop out (such as in a pan)... nothing will drop out in the coolers, the fluid flow is much too high there.
It is not good to run the tranny empty of fluid ... that being said, it is likely you have done little or no harm. I like to use a helper (on the ignition key) for this process. I would just proceed if I were you.
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