2003 Windstar LX - P0171 & P0174 CEL codes

P0171 fuel trim too lean bank 1
P0174 Fuel trim too lean bank 2

I hope I'm not really in for it with this. I'm too scared to do a search. If you've been following my other recent threads about this nightmare van this month you'll know this is just 1 more thing I didn't need.

What happened to wiswind? Did he leave the forums? ... not that the rest of you haven't been stellar... just wondering cause I haven't seen him in a while.

Sorry, I just saw this sticky: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=338113

So, I'm hoping its not the isolator bolts thing. I'm betting because I just had brake work done that someone knocked off or broke a vacuum hose. I'm gonna go check in the DARK with a flashlight because its killing me!!!!!!

He chimes in from time to time but he defected to Toyota so he doesn't own a windstar anymore.

Isolator bolt fix is easy; 2 hours max. No need to replace the bolts... just order the green grommets, cut them off and slide on the new ones.

I do check in.....but only post if I feel I can add something of value.....so often the advice already given is as good as or better than anything I can say.....or, as with many of the new posts I read today......I have no clue on what to offer.

I would look around, as you already are doing, for some vaccum leak.
Definition of vaccum leak (as you already know) is air entering the intake at ANY point past the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor).
I don't know if the isolator bolt issue would STILL be present on the 2003......I would have hoped that FORD would have put the improved ones in by then.

Of course, you could have some other issue, dirty MAF, dirty fuel injector....but the line of attack of starting with the vacuum leak possibility is what I would recommend.

I did a recall search for my vin for the 2003 and it found "ZERO" recalls listed.

Does that match up with what ya'll know? or does FORD's web site take into account fixes that were applied to specific VINs when it says whether or not a recall is "pending" on any given VIN?

I went to see the Windstar today and looked around where I thought the tech would've been working to pour brake fluid in the reservoir, and I did not see any vacuum hoses pulled off, but from my vantage point with the COWL still on and no flashlight I couldn't see for sure if the FPR vac hose lead somewhere under the air intake pipe that might've been dislodged... still I shouldn't have to go through this s____. Its too coincidental to me that this code would show up immediately following service at a shop without even leaving the parking lot.

There's a big vaccum tube on the back valve cover that connects to the inlet tube right in between the throtle and MAF Sensor, make sure it's securely connected to the inlet tube!. Also check the condition of the PCV Valve and tube going into the throtle body, the "U" shaped vaccum hose from the manifold to the Fuel Pressue Regulator and don't forget the Brake Booster vaccum tube and Check Valve at the Brake Booster...

I think removing the Cowl will give you a good clearance view of the back of the engine, there's also a vaccum block on the back of the intake manifold (close to the Power Steering Pump) that joins 2 or 3 other hoses to the HVAC. Run the engine with the cowl off and listen for hissing from a loose or disconnected hose.

Just takes 1 little leak to cause LOTS of these issues.

I think this forum should require all members go out and remove, and re-install, the wipers and windshield cowling from a Windstar. Just get it done and move on! Its covered in the body-section of a Haynes manual.

LOL!

I posted pictures that show this also......I'm sure my '96 pictures are close enough to the 99-03 to be of some help.

The light went away. Dunno if it will stay away, but we'll see.

Light came back. doing ioslator bolts this weekend. have got half the job done already. other half in the morning. There was definately an/oil air mixture leak at what i believe is cylinder 5, front most cylinder towards radiator on driver side. There was a POOL of oil next to that cylinder on top of the engine block and that cylinder's egr is pretty dirty too. There was lots of traces of fresh oil and oil burned buildup gunk everywhere in the intake plenum and more down into the valve areas in the block... perhaps 4-5mm thick with black soit.

Lower and upper air intake plenums have both been removed and cleanup is underway

I just dont know what to do about all the build up in the block, looking down at the egr ports and the valves its thick.... i mean do I need to clean it or is this commom build up for

Lastly, the main reasoning I write is to find out the torque setting on a torque wrench and go with it for every bolts I refasten to the intake manifold upper and lower. Anyone know that answer, as i have new stuff to fix, i already have the

The torque pattern for the manifold to the heads is a circular pattern from the inside to the outside. Once to 44-inch pounds, and then again to 89-inch pounds. The upper plenum pieces are just 89-inch pounds (no need for 2 steps).

By "valves" do you mean the IMRC butterfly valves? Mine were the same way (fairly oily). I took a couple of cans of carb cleaner and got a bunch of it out but I don't think it was hurting anything. Just be sure the small EGR ports are clear. And definitely check those little plastic IMRC bushings while you're in there. Mine looked fine but practically disintegrated when I touched them. It's $4.99 for a 5-pack at O'Reilly. If yours are original, I strongly recommend replacing them. They're not easy to reach when the manifold and plenum are in the way.

Responding after all this time...... new isolator bolts and gaskets that came with them of course... resolved these problems. AWESOME!