Shocks and struts replacement on 2003 Windstar LX

Now thinking about doing the struts/shocks myself, but I'd really like some feedback on that and if I need special tools to compress the struts/shocks etc..

My skill level is advanced, but my patience isn't. lol

I heard the cowl may have to come off to get the struts off. I want to order all new assemblies. I'm told the OEM struts are on there and for the shop to align the vehicle they'd need to unbolt the struts and while there they want to replace the OEM struts.

When I replaced all new assemblies in my 95 Windstar I was told the alignment camber plates weren't necessary because I'd returned the setup to factory specs. Could that be the case here for the 2003 too?

I don't want to mess with the sway bar. I'm told that is rubbing on something. I wanna let the shop deal with that, but is this part of replacing the struts.. and/or would I be in the convenience to do this while I do the struts?

This is a project for my handicapped mother. The van is going to her.

hey

I read your other thread and don't think it's that bad overall. ( I realize I'm adding to this post but anyway..)

The brakes are easy, and replacing the wheel cylinders isn't that bad either. Count on having to replace the rigid brake lines from the wheel cylinder to the flex line. Those parts are very inexpensive. Once that's done, the bleed procedure is pretty simple. If you haven't already, get a subscription to alldatadiy.com. It'll be the best $20 you'll spend.

The sway bar bushings are not too bad, the only scary part is lowering the subframe by about 2 inches. The bushings are inexpensive and slip on pretty quick. I can do both sway bar bushings in 20 min.. I'm no super tech or anything, it's just not that bad a job.

Rear shocks are simple, and make sure the e-cable is out of the way an not rubbing on the shock, which is a common cause of the leaking along the cylinder.

Regarding the struts, I'd be using a quick strut when replacing what's there. They generally are around $200 each. You won't need a spring compressor, and assuming the design is the same as my 2000 (I think it is) you won't need any camber plates. I for sure would take the cowl off, it's a 10 min job and makes getting to the shock towers way easier. You may want to also replace the tie rod ends, the lower control arms, and the sway bar links. If you were to do this, you essentially have a new front end, and with the mileage on the van, it's work that likely will need to be done fairly soon. I replaced my sway bar bushings, links, inner/outer tie rod ends, LCAs, shocks/springs (with quick struts) for $680 tax in about 4 years ago as an example. The tires you'll have to buy and get installed of course and once the suspension stuff is done it'd be best to have an alignment, a reputable shop again is needed.

About a week before you plan to do the work, spray all the fasteners with some kroil or pb blaster. That'll get the fasteners loosened once you start to wrench.

I bet a weekend's worth of maintenance and you'd be done. I'd imagine the cost would be about 1/3 of what you've been told (ie: you'd be paying for parts only).

I've done all the jobs you mention and have no formal training. Get the alldata subscription and plan away. Any further questions, just post. There's lotsa good advice and willing "helpers" here.

np

I'm about to do the same job. I will use quick-struts. Much easier and safer, and you get all the upper bearing plate goodies replaced at the same time. I will also replace the lower control arms... they take a beating! Also the links and bar-bushings. I may even replace the rack ... for sure, all 4 tie rod ends. ( I'm also replacing my beat-up sub frame member.)

I did the quick struts. Not too difficult. You should remove the cowl though; will make life a LOT easier.

I recommend a sledge hammer to dislodge the strut from the knuckle. It takes a little bit of convincing :)

FYI, make sure you don't get the monroe "econo" or "monroe-matic" struts. They're complete garbage. Get the "quickstrut" brand (which is the "sensa-trac" already assembled).

If all the parts are old, I don't see any use in only replacing the strut. The quickstrut saves literally 75% of the total amount of labor, is a lot safer (not having to compress the springs), and gives you all new parts for a fraction of the cost. After 10 years, I figured the bearing plates had to be old too, the springs couldn't possibly be as strong as new,... even the rubber boot can wear out. An extra $50 for all that PLUS assembly? I'm surprised anyone buys the parts individually anymore (other than if one specific part is defective or something).

The difference the new struts make is incredible!

I did the struts myself on my Windstar. It's a very reasonable DIY job.

I transferred the original spring to the new strut. I know many people like the quick struts, but it only took me a few minutes to swap the spring. I used the basic Harbor Freight spring compressor (about $10 on sale). Windstar springs aren't heavily compressed; it wasn't a big deal.

I decided I trusted the original real Ford springs more than springs chosen by the strut manufacturer. Your mileage may vary.

Yes, you'll need to remove the cowl. Everything is easy to get to with the cowl off - plus you've created an ideal opportunity for a quick spark plug change.

I took some pictures of my strut replacement project here:

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/e39701/library/Windstar%20strut%20project?sort=6&page=1

Funny how I went from one end of the spectrum to the other ... I started out with a 95 Windstar - first year made and now I've got a 2003 Windstar - last year made. lol irony... and yet the same work has to be done that I did on the 95. lol

You guys are great. Thanks. I guess I just need to get the parts and go to town on it. I just don't know if I have it in me to spend a whole weekend on it and I bet it will take that or more out of me since I'm not in the greatest shape.

So, the rear shocks... nothing to it? No compression needed? Just unbolt the tire, unbolt the struts and they slide right off/on without any compression needed? The shocks easy to compress if I need to or I'm not going to need to?

I've gone front end work before on my 3000GT and I pushed the bearings out of the control arms and back into them to save money. Its amazing how much time you save once you've done something 1 time before. I think I will never do that again despite the cost of the new lower control arms on my 3000. Windstar lower control arms are considerably less in cost.

What special tools would I need to do the front end linkage work? Any you can think of ??

Whats this about lowering the subframe 2 inches to do the sway bar bushings??? You mean I have to detach the subframe from something to get them in???

Yes, the rear shocks are a simple bolt-out, bolt-in job. I'll note that an impact wrench speeds things along, and saves skinned knuckles.

I haven't done the other front-end items you mentioned, so I can't comment...

Shocks normally are fairly easy to compress ... some force is required usually though as they are all gas-filled these days. Springs are a different matter.

There are no special tools needed for front suspension work on a Windstar ... if you are not going to compress the springs. But I would recommend jacking up both sides fully (wheels off ground) at the same time .... if you try to work on one side at a time the anti-sway bar is going to be working against you.

The sub frame is held in place by 4 bolts. I recommend you first remove one of the rear bolts totally just to see how long it is and all. Yes, lower the rear of the sub frame a bit to get better access to the anti-sway bar bushings. Work safely!!

when I replace sway bar bushings I put the van on ramps, chock the rear wheels. Then I use 2 bottle jacks that are under the rear part of the sub frame. I unscrew one of the rear sub frame bolts about an inch, then use the bottle jack to slowly lower the sub frame down. Then I go to the opposite side, lowering again about an inch. I think about an inch is all that's really needed to allow for a box wrench to sneak in and unscrew the bolt that holds the sway bar bushing yoke in place. (only 1 yoke bolt is tight to get to). Once both bolts on the bushing yoke are out, replace the bushing and reinstall the yoke, bolts and torque. For the record, I've never been able to torque the rear bolt on the yoke as it's impossible to get a socket and torque wrench on it. I suppose a crows foot wrench and torque wrench would work (I don't have crows feet wrenches). Anyway, tighten it up as tight as it was coming off and you'll be fine.

When you do the rear shocks don't let the axle hang. It says that on the manual, put a jackstand or a floor jack to keep it from haging.

That's all I would add, you've been given very good information.

Oscar.

when you do the rear shocks, just do them 1 at a time. A jack under the axle side you're on to help move it up or down a bit. With stands under either side at the rear and wheels off shock replacement is only as hard as getting the fasteners off.

2 of: Monroe 171920 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$109.28

2 of: Monroe 37110 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$35.00


i bought these for my 2002 windstar

I've done the sway bar bushings twice and have never lowered the subframe to do so. A GearWrench will make that job quick and easy.

Yes, the rear shocks are a simple bolt-out, bolt-in job. I'll note that an impact wrench speeds things along, and saves skinned knuckles.

I haven't done the other front-end items you mentioned, so I can't comment...

I love it when I get a simple and easy answer. Most of the times things are never easy to answer. lol - Then I will do the rears myself. No biggie. Though it wouldn't cost much to do at the shop either and would save me time, but thats less $ in my pocket too.

The sub frame is held in place by 4 bolts. I recommend you first remove one of the rear bolts totally just to see how long it is and all. Yes, lower the rear of the sub frame a bit to get better access to the anti-sway bar bushings. Work safely!!

I don't think I'm comfortable doing this in my garage. I am not certain what needs to be braced where and where the weight will come down once the subframe is dismounted. I think I will work to get as much done as I can myself and let a shop deal with that part.

Just for my own knowledge, if I loosened all 4 of those bolts... what am I loosening? IE: AM I loosening the actual steel chassis that holds up the tranny, engine etc..? or what all is the subframe attached to/doing?

I've always assumed the subframe is what I just asked it is after "IE:" above, but never been 100% sure.

2 of: Monroe 171920 Quick-Strut Complete Strut Assembly
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$109.28

2 of: Monroe 37110 Sensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber
Condition: New
Sold by: Just Suspension (seller profile)
$35.00


i bought these for my 2002 windstar

Does he have a web site? or just msg him on here?

Those are good prices. Thanks.

Does he have a web site? or just msg him on here?

Those are good prices. Thanks.

Actually... i just saw on RockAuto they have almost the same price and with the other stuff I need to get, I could get it all there in one lump.

I assume stabilizer bar and sway bar are synonymous right?

How do I know which size bushing I need for this? RockAuto's site has them for the 21.5mm up to 24mm bars?

Also, the ones listed "problem solver" with the "split" design? Does that split design make'm wear faster? or basically no difference in wear?

Looks like everything (without tires - getting those done today though) is gonna cost $588 before tax/shipping. :(

So at the end of this, I will have spent $1335 (if I do all the suspension/linkage work myself) to get this ole gal into shape.

The brakes (and a look at a faulty door lock) cost me $505. Didn't want to have brake fluid all over the place and on me. 2 tires today will cost $230.

And still gotta fix the front door locks. Now the driver door lock don't work... so both front door locks are no good for "automatic" locking/unlocking.

http://www.bbb.org/charlotte/business-reviews/auto-parts-and-supplies-new/just-suspension-in-denver-nc-123595 i whould read this first,i had no problem with my shocks and struts

OK. I've got most of the parts. I think I'm just missing rear shocks and outer tie rod ends. The shipments came from 3 different places from Rockauto. Sorry I didn't use your justsuspension buddy... its was too convenient to pass up.

I've never done inner tie rod ends before. What is there to it? Hard to do?

I'm about to attempt this today. I even went out and bought a portable a/c for the garage so I don't kill myself in this heat. :) lol - It was a good excuse to buy one.

Jealous of your portable A/C. It's crazy hot here (and my never-had-a-problem-in-11-years camry threw a P0430.. yay)

For your door locks, it really sounds like a bad switch more than the actuators. It's hard to believe they ALL have the problem at once. What about the lock/unlock switch on the passenger side vs. drivers side vs. keyless entry... do they all exhibit the same symptoms?

I'm starting to wonder if there are electrical gremlins afoot. I pushed the door unlock button on the remote today and the driver door opened right up. It had sat for a while unused, but that makes no sense as to why it would just start working.

Jack lift point - I want to lift both front wheels off the ground at the same time. Where should I be putting the jack? I've been looking all day for a good reference online and I can't find one and my repair cd is missing since we've moved a lot the past few months. Where is the safest lift point to where when I lift, the wheels will come up evenly and not one side sagging down more than the other?

LOL - I have used the portable a/c today for the first time and all day - even now at night it has not been able to get the garage below 85 degrees. I sealed the garage door as best I could with fence boards and trash bags enough to where I would've thought it would've at least gotten down to the 70's, but it hasn't once. The air its blowing is cool and if you stand in front of it, its nice, but its not cooling the room even with a fan blowing around too. I think the problem is so much air leakage around the big garage door. Even though I've sealed it up pretty well temporarily, it just can't catch up unless the seal is nearly 100%. I didn't think 8000 btu's in a standard 2 car garage would struggle this much honestly.

85 degrees would be a dream here, believe me.

I jack up from the middle of the subframe. I don't know if it's a good idea or not but that's what I do. I haven't found a good way to jack up the rear in the middle, though.

I would not jack on the middle of the sub-frame and especially not on the rear axle.

You mentioned earlier the brake fluid being very toxic ... I would never drink brake fluid, but I never avoided skin contact ... as long as a soap and water wash was to follow soon. But I would not want to submerge any part on me in it either ... just never been that concerned about a little casual contact. I may be living dangerously/carelessly and did not know it.

I would not jack on the middle of the sub-frame and especially not on the rear axle.

Why not? You think it will bend? I looked this up elsewhere and saw a lot of people talking about jacking it up there so they could get both front wheels up and jacks under the side pinch weld rails behind the front tires.

I'm in the garage now and now ya got me scared to lift it by that front sub-frame.

I wouldn't do it in the back. In the back I'll do one by one, but in the front the sway bar is gonna be a problem if both wheels aren't up.

Should I jack both sides up at the same time with someone's help?

I would not jack on the middle of the sub-frame and especially not on the rear axle.


Wow, I've jacked up via the front subframe at least 20 times! I don't really see why it would be a problem. It doesn't show even the slightest sign of trouble. Where do you lift it? One wheel at a time? Even that way, it's hard to lift and then have enough room to place the jack stands, unless there's a spot I'm missing..

I'm not saying I would not jack up both sides ... just not by jacking in the middle. I'm apprehensive of bending, and slipping on the jack. Maybe I'm just a bit old-maid.

But me and my car are both straight... nothing broken and looking good!

I'm not saying I would not jack up both sides ... just not by jacking in the middle. I'm apprehensive of bending, and slipping on the jack. Maybe I'm just a bit old-maid.

But me and my car are both straight... nothing broken and looking good!

I like that. I hear you 12Ounce. :) I was worried about "bowing" the subframe in the middle too, but I did it tonight very slowly and it went ok. I positioned the jack face on either side of the front subframe member and it sits in it like its a valley because of how the metal is shaped on the van.

So, front end is up, wheels are off, cowl off etc.. I've removed quite a bit of the right front nuts and the stabilizer link, which was pretty tore up.

I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the lower control arm ball joint off of the knuckle. I know there's a removal fork I can rent, but ya'll said I didn't need special tools to do all this.... so I was wondering if there is a way to get the control arm off the knuckle with some technique I'm not seeing.

I think the inner tie rod looks too difficult to do. I'm probably gonna let a shop do it unless its easier than I think?

I having a bit of trouble understanding the problem... or remembering exactly the details. Have you fully withdrawn all the bolts? There may be a split journal that the tip of a screwdriver, driven in a bit, would help....?

If there are a number of miles on this vehicle, I would ask you to consider replacing the whole steering rack. It is worn internally, you can be sure ... and with a remanufactured rack you get a good tight steering .... all new boots and seals ... and new inner tie ends.

I never rebuild/replace inner tie ends anymore.

Yes, not knowing the terminology... a split journal is where this lower control arm ball joint sits... I've got all the bolts out... I just didn't think me angling a screwdriver in there to slightly spread the hub's metal would actually work... i mean its is quite BEASTY THICK METAL.

SO THATS IT, NO OTHER DIY KNOWN METHOD TO GET THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT BOLT OUT OF THE HUB'S SPLIT JOURNAL??

I guess I should rent a ball joint separator tool if I want this to go quick. Was trying to avoid more money and time.

I'm not sure you'll have enough room to use the separator tool. Mine was pretty well stuck in there at first. How did I get it out? First spray some penetrating oil on the top of the ball joint. Next, go to home depot, buy a 10' piece of steel pipe, and have them cut it into 6' and 4' seconds for you (so you'll have 2 different size "tools"). Then, position that 6' pipe over the control arm and under the subframe, and push down. It'll come right out. I tried a 30" wrecker bar first, but it just bent. (I guess I wrecked the wrecker bar...)

Need to get off the axle nut but it's on REALLY tight? Grab your 2' breaker bar, slide that steel pipe right over it, and presto... you now have a 4' or 6' breaker bar. Got a lug nut really stuck on? Same drill... 19" socket, breaker bar, steel pipe over it.. cranks right off, even one-handed.

If you're doing new control arms, I'm pretty sure you could use a hammer to break the rust loose and insert a long screwdriver. If you're reusing them, then a separator is needed to avoid any damage.

As for the inner tie rods, is not hard at all if you have the right tool. It's called "inner tie rod tool" and looks like a long socket. MAKE SURE TO PUT THREADLOCKER AND THE COTTER PIN for the new inner tie rods.

Check the tool here (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-2-In-1-Inner-Tie-Rod-End-Tool/_/N-264v?itemIdentifier=552232_0_0_)

Oscar.

The ford service manual actually says specifically to pry the ball joint out like I mentioned (although they say with a "pry bar", but that'll never be strong enough at this point in time).

I'm not sure you'll have enough room to use the separator tool. Mine was pretty well stuck in there at first. How did I get it out? First spray some penetrating oil on the top of the ball joint. Next, go to home depot, buy a 10' piece of steel pipe, and have them cut it into 6' and 4' seconds for you (so you'll have 2 different size "tools"). Then, position that 6' pipe over the control arm and under the subframe, and push down. It'll come right out. I tried a 30" wrecker bar first, but it just bent. (I guess I wrecked the wrecker bar...)


LOL - You wrecked the wrecker bar. LOL I like that.

Well, I'll do the oil. I dunno why I didn't use oil to loosen stuff over so many years of work, but I have some Aero Kroil and I love the stuff... has worked great when I have used it before.

Pipe over the control arm and UNDER the subframe??? Do you mean under the knuckle??? I guess I'm not seeing how a 6' piece of pipe would reach to go under the subframe?

I'm thinking I'm going to hammer the ball joint left and right until it loosens up enough to come out.

This van has 135k... but I have to say..I cannot believe how well preserved this van really is. It looks like it has only EVER contacted pavement roads. The original PAINT is still even on the base of the wheel STUDS!! The cowl had never been removed before (I broke a piece of foam that was sealing it on driver side). I vacuumed all of it out and found out where the cabin air filter is too.

Anyway, I'm dead tired tonight and the van is just sitting right now. I didn't have it in me tonight to continue the struggle. Until tomorrow.

Oh and the control arms I'm putting on are new. I will never again go through pressing out and pressing in ball joint unless I have some very expensive automated tool to do it.

Van is still up on jacks. I wound up getting kidney stones and of course I couldn't finish it up. So, the ball joints are still stuck in the knuckle.

I was wondering too how to get the lower control arm bolts out of the control arms... I guess I just need to jack the arm up a hair to give the bolt some lack of tension and knock'm out?

Losing my steam.

I have all parts off of the passenger side, but I cannot get the ball joint free from the knuckle and now I have all the parts off and disconnected so there isn't anything to brace against. I'm thinking about putting it all back together and taking it to the shop. :(

Seems to me I should've just gotten the ball joint knuckle removal tool.

scubacat - I have reread your instructions, a couple posts back, several times and are you talking about a 10 FOOT piece of steel pipe? ... cut into a 6 FOOT and a 4 FOOT section? so I'd be wedging the pipe against the sub-frame pushing down on the control arm till the ball joint falls out of the knuckle??? is that right?? Is this ok to do, like it won't bend/deform anything else that's attached to the knuckle?

I have the control arm loose from the subframe attachment points, but the ball joint attached at the knuckle just spins... I have even backed the bolt out a few turns, the bolt that secures the knuckle "journals" (is that what they are called?) together to clamp the ball joint in place... but the ball joint just spins..... I did have some "play" in it going up and down a bit, but now I realize that could just be play in the ball joint itself.

Do I need to reattach all the linkage etc.. strut etc.. in order to get the control arm ball joint off of the knuckle?

I'm so whipped guys. I fought with it all Sunday night and its just in the same place it was.

what you need to do is make sure the LCA is attached at the frame. Put a long pry bar between the ball joint and where it attaches. Push down with the pry bar using the frame area as an anchor point for the end of the pry bar (the opposite end you're holding). Before all of this, liberally soak the area with PB blaster or aerokroil penetrant. It will come out, often with a big "pop" . These are suspension components designed to take big loads at highway speeds. Don't be scared to use some ummph, just be careful.

I have the control arm loose from the subframe attachment points, but the ball joint attached at the knuckle just spins... I have even backed the bolt out a few turns, the bolt that secures the knuckle "journals" (is that what they are called?) together to clamp the ball joint in place...

Did you not remove the pinch bolt?? That bolt goes through a 'keyway' in the ball joint stud that locks it in place. You must remove that bolt!

And yes, reattach the two bushings to the subframe and then use that leverage to pry out the ball joint. Push down on the angled arm (the one that goes to the front corner bushing). In my case, even my biggest pry bar wasn't strong enough to break it loose, hence the section of steel pipe.

about 8 months ago I had to work on an LCA and wanted "the right tool" so I went and bought a 48 inch long pinch bar like this one..http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Hammers1/pry-bars/ct-1610-16-pinch-bar

best investment I've made in ages. Get yourself one of these bad boys, don't cheap out and find a junky one from HF (they're waaay too soft). A "real" pry bar will make all the diff in the world.

I still prefer my steel pipe. For that same $20 you get a nice 10' section to cut up and it also doubles as a breaker bar extension.

true for sure. The think I most like about the bar I bought (aside from it's brute strength and resistance to bending) is that the pointed end is really helpful for getting various "holed" parts to line up. Push that end thru and any bolt that you need to wiggle into place just slips in. Again, not something you think about doing often but when you've got the right tool it just makes everything so much easier.

You need more beer!

It helps with controlling stress and kidney stones.

what you need to do is make sure the LCA is attached at the frame. Put a long pry bar between the ball joint and where it attaches. Push down with the pry bar using the frame area as an anchor point for the end of the pry bar (the opposite end you're holding). Before all of this, liberally soak the area with PB blaster or aerokroil penetrant. It will come out, often with a big "pop" . These are suspension components designed to take big loads at highway speeds. Don't be scared to use some ummph, just be careful.

Yeah, thats what scares me... pushing down so hard on the van while I have it up on jacks. I know that it won't come down... but it just makes me very nervous.

Anyway, I went today to buy a 4' long piece of steel pipe already cut and ready to go. I think that will do nicely now that I have an understanding of how to do this from ya'll here and on youtube.

The biggest problem now is that I have to reattach all this mess just to get that lower ball joint off and tonight I realized as I was jacking up the knuckle to meet the NEW SUPPOSED "QUICK STRUT" that the welds at the bottom of the quick strut ...... well...... prevent it from being quick. It absolutely will not go into the knuckle....... and at the same moment I realized this my air compressor killed on me. I cannot get it started now.... I haven't drained it in a while or got the oil changed in it in a while... so I hope (if anyone can advise on that, that would help a lot to have my air compressor back on) after I do those things that it will work again.

So I have to file down the welds probably on both new quick struts to get them in the knuckles and hopefully get the air compressor back up and running all to get the lower ball joint off.

I wish I would've known to try to remove the lower ball joint first thing before removing all the other stuff.

sorry to hear that the welds are sloppy on the quick strut. That shouldn't be the case. Did you buy them locally? If so, I wonder if checking there other stock would be worthwhile. When I got my quick struts, the section that fits into the steering knuckle was super smooth and they literally did just slip in. I'd hate for you to knick the shaft of that strut and damage it...

Sorry for your difficulties with this repair. It shouldn't be THIS bad.. keep the faith!

My quick-struts were tough to get in but it's because the paint made it slightly thicker than the circumference of the hole in the knuckle. It was probably from rust, too, though. I just got out my trusty BFH (6lb sledge hammer) and tapped the knuckle down to remove the existing strut and then up from the bottom to install the new one. Sometimes these things take a little convincing..

ya, my rule is... if you can't swear for 15 minutes straight without repeating yourself then you shouldn't be doing auto repairs..:iceslolan

Did you not remove the pinch bolt?? That bolt goes through a 'keyway' in the ball joint stud that locks it in place. You must remove that bolt!

And yes, reattach the two bushings to the subframe and then use that leverage to pry out the ball joint. Push down on the angled arm (the one that goes to the front corner bushing). In my case, even my biggest pry bar wasn't strong enough to break it loose, hence the section of steel pipe.

I didn't remove the pinch bolt. I didn't think it would be required to remove it all the way... so I just backed it back about 3 threads worth. So...... there's one thing wrong... I gotta take that out apparently. I still don't see why, but maybe I will once I get it out. Gotta get this van out of the garage. Taking up whole garage and we're having to park under the trees outside.

Thanks for the procedure for the ball joint (everybody). Once I get everything reattached I will report my success or failure. :)

You need more beer!

It helps with controlling stress and kidney stones.

JEezzz.... you have no idea. I tell ya.... when I'm mad with it..... I cannot think at all. It takes me till the next day to figure out how to get at the problem smart. More stress than stones. Luckily the stone only lasted one day.

sorry to hear that the welds are sloppy on the quick strut. That shouldn't be the case. Did you buy them locally? If so, I wonder if checking there other stock would be worthwhile. When I got my quick struts, the section that fits into the steering knuckle was super smooth and they literally did just slip in. I'd hate for you to knick the shaft of that strut and damage it...

Sorry for your difficulties with this repair. It shouldn't be THIS bad.. keep the faith!

I filed down the welds tonight on both struts. Both seemed to have a finishing weld "knot", if you will, at the bottom of them. NOT gonna wrestle by myself with a wheel/axle knuckle that should just easily glide right back on... so tomorrow I'll try to get them back on and report. I may spray paint the filed spots too, but I dunno if I really need to.

The flat "tab" section of the bottom of the strut that fits into the knuckle looks fine on both struts... it was just that finishing weld spot at the very bottom of the strut (on both) that was the problem. Hopefully that is all that was the problem and the circumference of the strut itself isn't the real issue or else I'm done and I will return the struts to ROCKAUTO. It shouldn't be this hard. Amazing what 1000's-th of an inch can cause problems with.

ya, my rule is... if you can't swear for 15 minutes straight without repeating yourself then you shouldn't be doing auto repairs..:iceslolan

lol - Ah yeah good times right?

I'm asking for one of these for Christmas:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Rotary-Lift-6000-lbs-fully-portable-mid-size-lift/_/N-26la?itemIdentifier=98985&_requestid=697209

Would make all my automotive repairs so much better.

this is going to garner undoubtedly a "you suck" label from the crowd, but this is the lift I have in my garage..


http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/consumer/browse-lifts/2-post-lifts/system1/

granted.. it lifts a 2000 windstar 3.8 but I digress

Very nice! I keep considering lifts, but the realities of kids, schedules and budgets seems to intervene...

I didn't remove the pinch bolt. I didn't think it would be required to remove it all the way... so I just backed it back about 3 threads worth. So...... there's one thing wrong... I gotta take that out apparently. I still don't see why, but maybe I will once I get it out. Gotta get this van out of the garage. Taking up whole garage and we're having to park under the trees outside.

Thanks for the procedure for the ball joint (everybody). Once I get everything reattached I will report my success or failure. :)

The bolt goes through a notch (often known as a "keyway") in the ball joint. It won't go anywhere with that bolt there. I'll try and track down the ford service manual procedure (that actually specifies the pry bar placement a few of us mentioned already) and post it here.

Here's what alldatadiy.com says

Remove and discard the ball joint (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY%7EV37730849%7EC34308%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829356/80829360/34853741/34864218/34864722/34864769) pinch bolt and nut.

49396

then...

Using a pry bar between the front subframe (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY%7EV37730849%7EC34308%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829356/80829360/34853741/34864218/34864722/124556185) and the front suspension (http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldatadiy/DIY%7EV37730849%7EC34308%7ER0%7EOD%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829356/80829360/34853741/34864218/34864722) lower arm, push down until the lower ball joint is free of the front wheel knuckle.

this is going to garner undoubtedly a "you suck" label from the crowd, but this is the lift I have in my garage..


http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/consumer/browse-lifts/2-post-lifts/system1/

granted.. it lifts a 2000 windstar 3.8 but I digress

Yer right. You suck.

WOW. lol. Either you have a big garage or holes in your ceiling for the posts. If you have that kind of $$$..... why DIY !?!? lol

Ok guys, with your help I finally got the lower control arm out and the ball joint out of it.... the ticket was indeed removing that locking bolt that goes through the notched "KEYWAY". It came right out actually... after I'd had it sit in kroil a bit.. it just came out with ease.

The biggest problem I had with all this after that point was getting the damn lower control arm back in place. I and a friend fought with that thing like it was Rocky Balboa in the 1st and 2nd Rocky movies. Little did we realize till it was in all the way is that the front control arm connection point sits at a tilt instead of sitting straight. We had so much trouble with it that I have decided not to do the driver side one and just let the shop do it.

I know there must be some technique to getting it back in easily, but I couldn't figure it out and neither could my friend. Looking back now it would seem more helpful to use the pry bar pipe in the opposite direction "prying up" (instead of down like for the control arm ball joint removal) on the front control arm connection point with the bolt halfway through the hole and then once its aligned by the pry bar/pipe have someone push/turn the bolt the rest of the way through the other hole to get the nut on that really long bolt. Still it seems like it goes better in my head than it does in real life.

Unless ya'll can clarify an "EASY" procedure for me.. that would get the control arm back in place ... again easily.... I'm gonna let the shop do that and I will just do the sway bar links and the strut.

FYI - The quick struts went right in after I'd filed down the bottom welds.

So tomorrow I have the strut and link to do. I may/may not do the rear shocks myself since my compressor is still out (bad capacitor on it). Then I will put the wheels back on it and bring it to the shop on Monday.