2000 Fuel Pump Retaining Ring - How Easy to Break?

I finally have the tank out and am wondering if I might break the retaining ring if I use a hammer and brass or wood "chisel" to knock loose instead of the proper ring removal tool?

Thanks
Tom

I've never broken one in all the years of doing mechanic work, as they're mad elf very durable plastic....if the one you have is plastic. I usually use a dull pry bar, cheap ones you get from harbor freight will do just fine.

Hammer in one place, then move to the opposite side, hit it a few times, then move on down the line. When you put it back on, use plenty of grease. They're a bitch to get then started correctly, and that's when you can break them.

Good luck.

Thanks Lev!

I hope you don't mind me chuckling about your phrase "very durable plastic" since in car parts, its usually the opposite!

I'll get it out today and then decide if I need a whole unit or just the motor.

My friend has a garage and he gets that "Carolina tool" ultra discount newspaper every couple weeks - and they have fuel pump assemblies for something like $50-75. I think the pump itself is $45 from RockAuto.

I don't know what the range in quality is out there, but it might not be a bad idea to use a higher quality replacement. Or maybe see if there are any with lifetime warranties.

Thanks
Tom

EDIT: Just started searching about fuel pump warranties and found all kinds of problems with replacement fuel pumps. Airtex is without doubt the most complained about. Bosch and Carter are classified as bad also. Everyone concludes that AC Delco is the good choice. I wonder what a Motorcraft pump from a discount Ford dealer might cost?

EDIT2: Full Assemblies are about $250 for AC or Motorcraft. Denso makes pump motor for $90ish. And AutoBest makes a pump motor for $23 (wow) Actually, I'm thinking about the $23 pump! Right now, I rarely drive my Windstar at all - it is my 2nd emergency/utility vehicle. The only time I drive is if my primary car (a Geo Metro) is down or I'm hauling something big/bulky. However, I will drive in winter when snow on ground. Hummm.... Even if only about 2k miles per year, maybe ultra cheap is not the way to go.

EDIT3: I'm going to start another thread (if I can't find one) about what fuel pumps people have used and like/hate.

I think Airtex may be the biggest supplier of all ... no surprise that they get the most comments. I used them .... and yes, one had a problem ... not with the pump but with the pressure sensor (I always buy the complete pump and sender unit).

I have used Bosch ... probably will not buy them again. It was missing pieces that had to be moved over from old unit ... a lot of difficult work.

If you opt for just the pump and motor, be sure to replace the filter also.

Yes...the Airtex pumps are shit. When I see an Airtex pump on the parts counter, the next thing I tell the service writer is....." When it comes back, your paying me again to replace it, and your gonna use a better quality pump."

AC Delco and motorcraft are about the best you can get. You gotta look at it this way....your Windstar is a 2000 model. It took 13 years for the fuel pump to go out. Why take the chance of replacing it with a sub-par part just to save a few dollars.

But in the end, the choice is yours.

Actually, you might laugh at this, but I'm going to see what the bone yards want for a tank/fuel pump.

They may be required to puncture tanks which means fuel pumps might be had for the cheap.

I think I'd much rather a used OE one than... well an Airtex or a cheapo. (Although I'm still intrigued by the $23 AutoBest - yes I must be crazy, right?)
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I haven't seen it, but it looks you cannot buy the pump only from AC or MotorCraft? So that leaves Denso.

EDIT: The real question is what goes wrong in these fuel pumps? Well it would be either the motor or the pump. If the motor, I'd guess the bushings wear so that the armature rubs on the field and it does not turn. Or the brushes. If the pump, the vanes could wear thin and begin to jam and stick. Has anyone done any autopsies?

I personnally would not use a used pump. They are a replaceable item ... not designed to last forever, no matter the manufacturer. My '99 has nearly 400k miles ... I'm probably on my fourth pump. Depends a lot on gasoline cleanliness at the filling station.

12ounce,

4 pumps in 400k sounds terrible. What brands have you tried?

Right now, my final candidates are
1) new Motorcraft, $260
2) new Denso pump, $90
3) new AutoBest pump, $23
4) used pump, $25-50

I also know where to cut the hole in the floorboards in case I have to do another one. It is interesting but the floor has stamped rib stiffeners except where I would expect to cut the hole! I haven't made final precise measurements, but looks like that part of the floor is perfectly flat. That can't be a coincidence.

I also thought having a hole in the floor would be very dangerous since it wouldn't take a long time to fill the passenger compartment with gasoline vapors. But with the tailgate, sliding, and front door open, it probably shouldn't be too bad.

If I can find a Windstar w/50k on it and they want $35 for the fuel pump, that's the way I'm going.

I further suspect that you cannot buy the pump that came with it when new - I suspect ALL the aftermarket pumps are just that - aftermarket.

It does sound terrible ... but I think it may be typical, no matter the car brand. The first replacement was from Ford ... then a mixture of Airtex and Bosch. I will never buy Bosch again ... as it comes incomplete and one must move stuff from the old unit.

BTW, I have never broken a pump lock ring ... and I use a hammer and blunt punch. But then all the rings have been steel, I believe.

Some cars, such as Escorts and Mazda MPV's have access doors thru the floorboard for pump service. I'm interested to see how a home-made access door turns out ... I'm thinking of trying it myself if the Winney tank ever gets dropped again.