Few codes - Which one to fix?

Hello everyone
I have a 2003 Ford Windstar

I recently replaced the alternator and one oxygen sensor (on the front of the car) and a while back the, if I remember the name, catalytic converter. . From what I understand this car has two of them.
I can't pass emissions testing until I get the check engine light off.

I got the check engine light read two times and the following codes showed up:

First time:
1. P0151
----HO2S21 circuit condition (heated oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1)
Explanation: The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio in the exhaust.
Probable cause:
----1. Oxygen sensor defective
----2. Fuel system running very rich or lean check another codes first
----3. Engine misfire condition-repair
----4. Fuel pressure very high or low-fuel pump or pressure regulator

Second time (three codes):
1. P0141 (I pretty sure I already repalced this oxygen sensor unless I confused the tow of them) OR the explanation: The powertrain control module monitors the oxygen sensor heater. The computer has recognized a failure in this circuit
Probable cause:
-----1. Faulty HO2S12 (bank 1 sensor 2)
-----2. Poor connection at oxygen sensor
-----3. Check circuit fuse

2. P1519 - Intake manifold runner control stuck closed.
Explanation: The ECM has detected the signal was more than expected when monitored.
Probable cause:
----1. Damaged IMRC actuator
----2. Open or shortened electrical circuit.

3.. P1000
OBDII monitor testing not completed. I'm assuming because of the other two.

Questions:
1. How are these connected to each other?
2. Would it be dangerous to wait to get it fix by the weekend, I drive to work a total of about one hour and 20 minutes a day (about 37 miles to and from work).?
3. Where is the second oxygen sensor located, if I need to replace that.
4. Where is the IMRC located, what does it look like?

I might be asking a lot, but any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Well, I would go after the intake manifold runner first ... a quick look at the IMRC actuator will tell if a plastic bushing has failed, letting a shaped-wire link fall out of place. It that is the case, and the bushing replaced, ....I would next lift a battery cable for a minute to "clear" the codes.

Then as/if the engine check light came back on, I would quickly retest ....trying to find the first code to come back. And then continue the process if necessary.

I'm with 12Ounce on this one, the IMRC actuator acts as a way to induce more air into the combustion chamber by means of extra buttleflies in the Intake Manifold (sort of like the old school secondaries on a carburetor).

As you step on the gas to gun the engine, the ECM sends a signal to the IMRC actuator (somewhere around the 3000 to 4000 RPM range), which in turn opens this extra butterflies to give the engine the extra shot of air it needs to power up.

The linkage that connects the IMRC to the actual butterflies is held by plastic clips that degrade and break over time. So, when the ECM sends that signal for extra power and the IMRC activates, but the engine doesn't respond to the change, the ECM will activate the MIL and a code or codes are stored to memory indicating there's been a malfunction in engine performance, in this case P1519.

So in turn the O2 Sensor is looking for a change in Air/Fuel mixture that is not happenning, so this P0141 code may or may not be an indication of a bad O2 Sensor. First get the IRMC problem corrected and see if this will in turn auto eliminate the O2 Sensor code.

If this does not fix the P1519 then I would look at the O2 Sensor plug and connection aswell as the wiring leading up to it. It might have tangled and come into contact with the exhaust or any other hot part of the engine and melted the insulation causing it to short and malfunction.

P1000 - OBDII monitor testing not completed this code should be ignored, it's just a standard code. When that happens it just means that the ECM is relearning the parameters of the drivetrain, this happens when the battery is disconnected and it normally clears itself of after several miles of driving. You may notice a bit of harsh/rough performance as the ECM re-learns shift points, throttle response, operating temp, speed and slow down cycles, etc.

Also lifting a battery cable for a minute to "clear" the codes does not work any longer with newer vehicles, this needs to be done with an OBD Tool, Scan Tool or PC that can connect to the ALDL connector under the dash.

Hope this helps...

Thanks

Now I'm having the problem that the check engine light is on and I took it to different places, every time one of those places checks the check engine light, it says the same thing
---P0141: The powertrain control module monitors the oxygen sensor heater. The computer has recognized a failure in this circuit
Probable cause:
-----1. Faulty HO2S12 (bank 1 sensor 2)
-----2. Poor connection at oxygen sensor
-----3. Check circuit fuse

I replaced both of the oxygen senors, bought them new. I'm not sure what the problem is. I passed well over 300 miles after I replaced both of them.

By the way, someone told em that I can open up a "complaint" with the Department of Revenue becasue I did everything that the emissions test showed, so that the mechanic has to let me pass if it is only the oxygen sensor (even the mechanics test showed only the problem with the sensor).
Could anyone confirm this?

Keep in mind that "bank 1" is the three cylinders near the firewall ... the RH side or the engine, or the "rear" of our "sideways" engine ... and sensor 2 is after the first cat (or at least, that's the way my sensors are laid out.)

I would just swap the #2 sensors from the bank 1 to bank 2 .... and see if the code "relocates".

BTW, ... its good that you are down to one code, how did that happen?

Every state and even counties within the same state have different laws and regulations... It could be hard for one to confirm what you heard!

Have you checked the wiring to the O2 Sensor itself? The sensor could have been working fine, but you or someone driving your vehicle could have struck something that actually went underneath and hit the wires damaging them. Also running thru puddles or standing water can cause water to mess up electrical connections and such!

Keep in mind that "bank 1" is the three cylinders near the firewall ... the RH side or the engine, or the "rear" of our "sideways" engine ... and sensor 2 is after the first cat (or at least, that's the way my sensors are laid out.)

I would just swap the #2 sensors from the bank 1 to bank 2 .... and see if the code "relocates".

BTW, ... its good that you are down to one code, how did that happen?

I had it checked again, the check engine, at different places and all of them said the same thing, the same code. The people there told me the front sesnor at the front of the engine is fine, but the code comes up for the back one.

I got me one of those Hayenes maintenance books and just matched the pictures, in fact the same locations as int he book.

Every state and even counties within the same state have different laws and regulations... It could be hard for one to confirm what you heard!

Have you checked the wiring to the O2 Sensor itself? The sensor could have been working fine, but you or someone driving your vehicle could have struck something that actually went underneath and hit the wires damaging them. Also running thru puddles or standing water can cause water to mess up electrical connections and such!

I would remember hitting something, I doubt it's that. hitting water puddles, it was pretty sunny here.


Thanks for both of your answers. I think I might just call up the Department of Revenue about the emissions.

As front he sensor, I don't know what to do yet.

Did you understand my suggestion of swapping the sensors ...(one with the other)... to see if the code changes? Indicating that the sensor itself is bad ... or, not?

Did you understand my suggestion of swapping the sensors ...(one with the other)... to see if the code changes? Indicating that the sensor itself is bad ... or, not?

No point in swapping them when they are two different sensors, the tips don't even look the same, one of them has a shorter cable than the other. That might even cause more damage.

Reread post #5, 12Ounce did not say to switch the sensors in front and after catalytic convertor, he is suggesting to switch the after cat sensors from bank 1 to bank 2.

I must have just glazed over his post because I have no idea what those words are nor where to find them, how to switch that.

I looked in the repair book and can't find that.

Thanks anyway

We may all be talking apples and oranges here. First of all ... how many sensors does your system have ... 3 or 4? If 3, then my suggestion would make no sense ... and some exhaust systems have only 3.

But if your system has 4 oxygen sensors: I'm suggesting you swap (one-for-one) the two rearmost (after cats) sensors. They should be a match ... same part number. After the swap, if the code changes from bank 1 to bank 2 ... that would be an indictment of the sensor itself. If the code does not change ... then that would suggest the sensor is not at fault.

We may all be talking apples and oranges here. First of all ... how many sensors does your system have ... 3 or 4? If 3, then my suggestion would make no sense ... and some exhaust systems have only 3.

But if your system has 4 oxygen sensors: I'm suggesting you swap (one-for-one) the two rearmost (after cats) sensors. They should be a match ... same part number. After the swap, if the code changes from bank 1 to bank 2 ... that would be an indictment of the sensor itself. If the code does not change ... then that would suggest the sensor is not at fault.

From the repair book for the windstar and from what a few people told me, this car has only two oxygen sensors. There might be another one, but I don't know if it's an oxygen sensor.

Well, I think you may not reading the repair book correctly ... and you need some other people to talk to, at least about auto details.

Why don't you just count the sensors? I assure there are more than two ... unless someone has installed a 4 cylinder engine in your Windstar. And then you truly have a museum piece!

Well, I think you may not reading the repair book correctly ... and you need some other people to talk to, at least about auto details.

Why don't you just count the sensors? I assure there are more than two ... unless someone has installed a 4 cylinder engine in your Windstar. And then you truly have a museum piece!

Well I checked again, there might be four, I remember two and I did see one further down back to the car. What I was going by was this picture (image 5.4) from the repair manual, which I uploaded.
So which one of these do you think I should check or exchange. I know the front one is ok, but the other three, which one is bank 1 sensor 2, I don't know what that means.

http://i44.tinypic.com/35jh300.jpg

Take a moment and go back and read each post that folks have written to you ... slowly, word-by-word. I think you learn more if you just slow down a bit and carefully read and listen.

Ok, I replaced the third one on Sunday (this one really looked messed up, the other ones just little scratches here and there).
The check engine light went off Monday and it has since been off, but I still canćt pass because the mechanic hooked up the reader and it has two flashing icons (C for converter and another one), he says that I can't pass unless at least one of them shuts off.
I'm going to drive the car this week and go back to see if one of those icons will shut off, so that I can proceed. If that doesn't happen, I will request a waiver from the motor vehicles department to pass emissions.

I just wrote this so that people in a similar situation might find this helpful.

As has already been written, different states and jurisdictions treat the matter differently. I believe my state, Georgia, only concerns itself with the emissions (OBDII) codes ...never the drivetrain codes. (I'm guessing that what the "C" code is ... a code concerning the transmission converter slipping or not locking-up ... but who knows?)

I would suggest you go to an AutoZone and see what they read.