Low servo repair: transmission slip problem solve

Hi

Below is my repair of the low servo on the transmission, an AX4S, which is on many windstars. My van is a 2000, 3.8, that had 190,000 km, at initial symptom occurence.

Symptoms: on driving from a stop the transmission slips when approaching the change to 2nd gear. This slip is most evident when driving up hill, and at the transition between 1st and 2nd gear, the RPM will quickly jump while the transmission appears to be in neutral. 2nd gear eventually engages and the same symptoms may appear at the transition from 2nd to 3rd gear.

Repairs to correct symptoms: Initially I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, did a full transmission fluid change as detailed elsewhere on this forum. I also added, on the advice of the Ford service dept, 2 bottles of AT-205 which is an anti-slip product. The fluid I used for the change was MerconV as suggested. There was no noticeable change in the transmission performance.

Following this unsuccessful repair I pulled the low servo cover off. Approximately 1/2 litre of transmission fluid spilled out which I was prepared for. This fluid was discarded. See post # 6 below for suggested method for servo cap removal. On removal of the servo cover the gasket beneath the cover was ripped and the parts beneath it are pictured below.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=48247&d=1361641585

As you can see, the e-clip which fills the grove between the spring and the piston was missing. This meant it was floating around somewhere in the transmission, which was not good of course. As luck would have it, I managed to find the bits of broken e-clip within the housing of the servo on the transmission body.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=48248&d=1361641585


Carefully "puzzling" the parts, I was relieved to see it was complete, and nothing should be floating around the transmission.



Buying just this e-clip was difficult as it isn't a standard e-clip, but one that is thicker. I ended up purchasing a whole kit of parts which included:
piston, pin, replacement e-clip (which looks simply like a regular washer cut in half) servo spring, 3 rubber o-rings. Below is the kit (minus the piston and large servo spring).

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=48272&stc=1&d=1362080164

The spring pictured above is the original spring and retainer. The pin as shipped is slightly longer than the original pin. This kit covers several different transmissions and therefore needs to be machined down. I carefully measured between the grove at the top of the OEM pin to the pointed end, then ground down the new pin at the pointed end to match. (I did leave 0.2mm longer as I've heard that the oem pin is slightly too short and reasoned as well that some wear likely would have occurred. This extra length has worked out fine). The 3 rubber o-rings were installed, the spring, retainer and new e-clip (split washer) installed, the new piston installed. The original e-clip from the old pin was removed and re-used for placement on the top of the piston on the new pin. This is per the instructions on the new pin kit and as they don't provide a new e-clip, I had no choice. Note the e-clip that breaks frequently (I've learned thru discussion) is that e-clip that is mid shaft on the pin, not the one on the top of the piston.

Here is a pdf link of the info that comes with the kit, along with installation instructions and part numbers.
48271

You'll note on the instructions it says to measure travel of the piston by drilling a hole in a spare servo cap and measure with a caliper. Well, as I didn't have a "spare servo cap", I was unwilling to do this of course. As I said earlier, measuring the length of pin and adding a very small amount worked out fine.

Not included in the kit are the servo cap gasket, the rubber o-ring which is within the cap, and the rubber o-ring which runs around the perimeter of the piston. I replaced all of these as well.

Once everything was all assembled, I carefully inserted the assembled piston, new large spring (discarded the large OEM spring) into the transmission. I placed the cap on and used 12Ounce's suggestion of longer bolts. The bolt size on my transmission is 20 mm long, M6 x 1.0. I bought 3 sets (20, 25, 30mm) and used them to incrementally tighten the cap back on. I did not lower the sub frame. I have a 2 post lift which allowed me to stand beneath the van and work on the servo which was nice. It also (I'm thinking) caused the suspension to sag a bit allowing access, although it is tight.

Once the cap was back on, I filled with about 1.5 litres of mercon V. I started the van and went through the gears, things seemed ok. Took it for a drive and must say it shifts "better than new". The new longer spring (the 96995A as per the diagram) while the longer spring leads to smoother shifts vs the OEM one. I can confirm this.

The van is now back and on the road, my wife says "better than ever" which is great to hear. Total cost for this repair was around $150.

Any questions or things that aren't clear, please post and I'll explain better.

My bottom line, if your van is high mileage and is slipping, this is not a bad DIY job that could easily save you some big coin.

np

Piper -

Wow!

Thanks for sharing your very clear pictures and write-up. This is very useful!

My transmission has never been opened (except for filter replacement), but I'm considering doing this as a preventive item.

After reading many Windstar transmission horror stories, it's great to see that - with care - these transmissions really can be dependable, long-term runners.

no problem Phil...we're all in this together eh?

If I look back on the day the trans slip started, it's pretty easy to see what happened. The day was very cold (-34 degrees Celsius). My wife took the van from our driveway, without warming the van up, to drop kids at school, then back home. Total trip was probably 3 miles. Knowing that the e-clip was original, the freezing cold temp, the block on the motor just as cold, cold trans fluid,... little wonder that the clip shattered.

Since posting my write-up I also learned that the pin and new e-clip package is an aftermarket "fix" for frequently breaking e-clips. Funny as I haven't heard a lot of folks complaining about e-clips breaking but possibly they're just not opening the low servo and finding it, instead just having the trans replaced... which is huge bucks of course.

Choosing to remove that e-clip before it breaks I feel is a good idea. If I wasn't lucky enough to find the 4 pieces, then it WOULD mean tearing the whole trans apart.

If I'd known how weak this e-clip was a month ago, I'd have replaced it as a maintenance procedure, as it wasn't too bad a job now that I've completed it. Granted, I had to do a lot of digging to find out which parts and numbers, picking peoples brains for help, but that being said, it's no more difficult than lots of windstar repairs we tackle.

I'd suggest if people haven't done this upgrade, I'd be seriously considering doing it.

Hopefully my pictures and write up will help those that tackle the job.

Yes, I suspect most people just head to a shop - which will likely tell them that the tranny needs to be replaced/rebuilt.

Piper -

As I'm reading more closely...

How difficult was it to take the servo cover off originally - with the OEM bolts? Is there anything special to do in order to prevent things from flying out?

Where did you purchase parts? Did you get the servo kit from the same place you got the gaskets?

Thanks!

the servo cover comes off easily. I should edit my original post but what I did was loosen the first bolt, insert one which was 2 cm longer, then loosen the second, insert a 2 cm longer bolt, then the third bolt 2 cm longer bolt. That let me gradually ease the cap off without having the spring shoot the piston out. Installing was just the reverse, except I started with the longest 3 bolts, then removed one of them, inserted a 1 cm shorter bolt, (then 2nd then 3rd) then finished with the OEM bolts. It was a bit tedious in doing this but really made the cap slip on perfectly. The new piston with o-rings means for a tight tolerance and if the cap goes on slightly cock-eyed you risk breaking the bolts. When the cap is squarely aligned, the bolts really tighten quite effortlessly. I don't know what sort of torque I used in the final tightening; couldn't find a value for that anywhere, but they weren't very tight when I undid them. "Just tight enough" is what I did... then check for leaks.

I got all my parts from a place called KingOMatic as I'm in Canada. It's here. http://www.kingomatic.com/ProductsMain

but I understand they come from the place I refer to in the instruction pdf file called Sonnax. Here is their "where to buy" page. http://www.sonnax.com/where-to-buy

It seems these parts are readily available, which is nice.

Piper -

Thanks for the clarification! I suspected you did something like that - but your confirmation goes a long way toward completing a job like this with confidence.

Just because it was bugging me not knowing I looked for the torque spec for the servo cover. I couldn't find the value for the lower servo (the one I've done this write up about) but did find that the overdrive cover (which looks identical) has a bolt spec of 10 Nm or 89 Lb-in (yes "inch" pounds..) so anyone doing this repair, there's your setting.

As a follow up, I put the van on the hoist this weekend. Everything was dry, no leaks and the transmission continues to function very well. Here's hoping that continues.

Piper -

Thanks for the updated info.

Yes, watch those "inch-pounds". Some people on this board got messed up on that issue for the isolator bolt fix.

Congrats - I'm pleased your repair is working out well!

Yes, watch those "inch-pounds". Some people on this board got messed up on that issue for the isolator bolt fix.


All thanks to the haynes manual for that typo.

The original e-clip from the old pin was removed and re-used to hold the piston on the new pin. This is per the instructions on the new pin kit and as they don't provide a new e-clip, I had no choice.


What do you mean by this? Isn't the e-clip the thing that broke into 4 pieces (or am I missing the point entirely??)

good catch scubacat... I wasn't particularly clear on that part. I've edited the posting.

The e-clip that I am referring to is the one that sits on the top of the piston. From what I've learned, it's the mid shaft e-clip that breaks frequently. 12Ounce I think had this happen IIRC. Anyway, the retrofit with new parts asks you to use the old e-clip from the top of the piston on the new pin. It fits perfectly, which was a relief of course.

Here's a pic. It's kinda dark but you can see how the e-clip (the OEM one) fits into the new pin before inserting into the housing of the trans.

48308

When I had my clip break, it was very early-on and I suppose not enough clips had broken to trigger the update kit being designed. Therefore, when I went to Ford for a replacement clip ... I got just that: a replacement clip of the same design. Many miles later I replaced my tranny with a Ford reman, which I still drive.

I may now pull the low-servo to see if it has been upgraded on the reman.

I have a 2002 with an AX4N. I don't see any sort of repair kit for it so hopefully this won't be an issue for us. This is still some good info though as it's nice to know about serviceable transmission parts just for reference.

BTW - I picked up a junkyard OEM right CV axle that appears to be in amazingly great shape (and also seems to not be a rebuilt one meaning it would actually work) that wouldn't quite fit.................... because it's an AX4S axle that is identical other than being exactly 1.5" longer. Anyone in the Atlanta area is welcome to drop by and pick it up. It's currently doing a nice job holding down the floor in the garage.

Thanks for the write up! I'm having this similar problem with my 2000 windstar w/ 169K. I took it to a tranny shop that I have had good results with in the past on two other cars but this time the owner's helper noticed the ABS light on, cleared the codes before he drove it and then didn't feel any shift problems and thought they were some how related. I think the only reason he didn't feel anything is because when the tranny is cold it usually shifts ok. I think the only relation to the ABS is heat. THe ABS light will never come on during cold winter days. So I'm going to take my van back by the shop with some of this info in hand and see if he'll humor me and swap out this servo. I should do it myself and then go tell him I did it but I have a busy schedule this week before I leave for vacation next week...oh yea and I feel lazy!

If I do change it myself I'll probably buy the parts from here

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/

One think I do not see in their list of parts or in any of your pics is an o-ring called out as item 7 on this exploded assembly view
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tracker40/2012-09-03_135530_223.pdf

IS there an o-ring in the groove around the edge of that piston?

mdare35 -

Your ABS light is almost certainly unrelated to the transmission issue.

The '00 Windstar (and other years) ABS modules are notorious for errors related to the electronic portion of the ABS controller. I replaced the electronic portion of my ABS controller - and have had no further problems. Note that it's now possible for the ABS electronic module to be repaired (a service that wasn't available when replaced my module; search for "windstar abs repair service" on eBay to start your research). It's important to note that it is possible to replace the electronics portion of the ABS module without breaking into the hydraulic portion, though it's very difficult to successfully remove the appropriate fasteners if your module is corroded.

I can't comment on your o-ring question, but Piper will probably have further info.

Yea I like the transmission guy I go to but that makes me wonder about him. As far as ABS I've seen on ebay a guy that rebuilds the units for like 50 bucks. So if I decide it has to have working ABS in warm weather and get really bored I might lay on my back under the windstar some afternoon pulling the unit off so I can send it for repair. My guess is that won't happen!

I don't have experience with the Windstar ABS guy on eBay - but a friend use a similar service for a different car, with good results. I would have tried the service, had it been there when I had the problem.

The real challenge to this job is the 4 bolts that attach the electronic portion of the module to the hydraulic portion. The fasteners have Torx heads, so use the right tools. The fasteners themselves are steel - and the hydraulic unit is aluminum, so some corrosion is practically guaranteed. If you can remove them without damaging anything, you're home free. Reassemble with anti-seize compound!

I just stopped by the transmission shop and that guy is very hesitant to to this because or age and mileage...the vans that is, ha ha. And he still thinks there is some relation between the ABS and tranny...that really seems strange, almost like he's old school mechanical and doesn't understand all these electronic gadgets?

So I think I'll order the parts and give it a whirl. Might be a couple of weeks as I assume it will take a few days for the parts to arrive and I'm going to the beach next week so sometime after that.

I'll keep you posted.

On the morning commute it made 2 good 1-2 shifts with in 3 miles of my house, the third and fourth 1-2 shift after about 4 miles, bam! ABS light was off the whole trip which is only about 5 miles for me. It would have probably come on too if I had a longer drive.

to answer mdare35's question about the piston, yes, there's a rubber o-ring which sits in the groove of the piston. On the pdf that you posted it looks like #6, which on the diagram is just a tiny bit smaller than the #7 which is the ring that goes inside the cap. On the very first post I did on this topic I show a really big picture of the piston top. The groove you see there is for the ring (I removed it for clarity but should likely have left it in the shot.)

The only caution I'll add is that my trans is a 2000 so there might have been some mild changes though I didn't see anything indicating that when I bought the parts.

OK that makes sense as transmission parts usa has a cover o-ring (item Number 7 on the pdf and their item 29261)

I just don't see a listing for a piston o-ring. Does one come with the piston or did you just reuse the old one?

no, the piston doesn't include the o-ring (or at least my kit didn't) I'd for sure order a new one. The old o-ring was slightly larger, likely due to typical wear and needed replacement. I'd suggest you replace all those soft parts when you're doing this repair.

If you can't find a number post here and I'll find it.

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If you call sonax they should at least be able to provide you with a number that trans usa can use.

It always concerns me that in using some local "Joe-Blow Tranny Repair" ... you have no idea what worn parts he is willing to reuse; if stopping and ordering more parts will "keep him from finishing the job" .. in the time he has allowed.

Yea that piston o-ring seems like something that definitely should be replaced but no one seems to list it separately. I'll email them direct see if they have or can get it. If not I'll let you know and you can check your records. Thanks a lot!

Got all the parts in yesterday. Tonight I'll probably just gather all the needed tools and supplies and then try Thursday night to git-r-dun. I'll try and take pics to document.

Well fudge, the new pin was about 1/8" longer and I stuck it in as is and when I put it in any forward gear it goes nowhere. Tomorrow I'll pull it back off and shorten it and hopefully have some forward motion.

Also interesting is my pin didn't have any o-rings on it. Just the 2 e-clips which were both still intact. There was a notch worn into the coned surface. I have a few pics but just signed up for a photo account and will post when that gets approved.

Pics of new pin next to old and new pin broken.

Well I took it apart and apparently the pop I heard while tightening the cover bolts last night was the new pin breaking! Took the old pin and polished a notch on the conical part of the nose thinking maybe that was getting stuck in the hole I assume it goes into. Put it back together and very little difference in the 1-2 shift bump. Maybe a little better in that before it wouldn't bump below about 1500-2000 rpm before now maybe you can go up to 2500. But that may just be wishful thinking on my part. Since my e-clip wasn't broken I'm thinking my problem may be a solenoid rather than this servo. I may take and get the tranny back flushed to see if that helps but I hate to waste the money if I then have to turn around and dump all the fluid to get to the solenoid. I think I'm going to google some more and see if I can find other possible solutions. One I saw earlier today was someone had a 1-2 bump that was fixed by the replacing TPS even thought there weren't any codes....seems a bit fishy...

Here's some instruction on how to change the shift solenoid, I might try this next

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic955631.htm

Well went to Jiffy Lube yesterday, had them do their transmission flush and now it's shifting normally!

I did this after thinking that my transmission issue wasn't that the solenoid wasn't working but that it was getting stuck until pressure built up enough and the bam it slammed into gear.

So I'll drive it a while and report back later on whether it's still going good or not.

Thanks for everyone's input!

Wow, they actually did it! Half the time they take your money and never even do the service. Congrats on your easy fix!! I'd definitely let a shop do that for me. It's not THAT much money and way too much of a pain and mess to even attempt to flush that system myself.

They actually make you sign a waiver if it's been more than 60K Miles since you had the tranny flush done, in case it stirs up crap and causes problems or leaks.

But so far after about two lightly harsh shifts right after the change it's back to the normal smooth ones like 2-3 ad 3-OD. Down shifts were always ok.

I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Now I just need to get the new rear drums/shoes adjusted so they quit clunking when stopping. I don't think I've ever had rear drums that were so sensitive or just wouldn't seem to adjust quickly. Then again the main ones I've worked on were in a '78 Fiesta and they had a ratcheting adjuster not a little star screw and pretty much the first backup you did you could hear the ratchet adjust the full amount they needed in one shot.

It's probably moot, but I'd have had a transmission shop drop the pan as well and check for any sort of excessive debris. That's what I did when I thought mine was on the fritz. For $150, they dropped the pan, cleaned it in the parts washer, changed the filter, and flushed out the fluid with new fully synthetic fluid. And they actually know me now for when I really need something done.

Nevertheless, I'd just check the level next time you pull in for gas. I'm wary of those Jiffy Lube teenagers messing something up!

On a trip, 800 miles from home my 96 started surgeing like it was falling out of OD momenterly but it continued even with the OD locked out.

I did the cooler line flush/fluid change in the motel parking using full synthetic Mercon and the problem went away completly. Have driven about another 60,000 miles since then with no problems. Have done the flush/fluid change once since them and a drop the pan filter replacment once and it's still running fine at 150,000 miles.

Never thought a fluid change could make such a differnce but it did, these things are hard on fluid and I think the synthetic Mercon is well worth the money.

By the way the old fluid (prior to the motel lot change) was clean and had about 40,000 miles on it with a filter change when it was installed but it was non synthetic.

I think minivans are hard on transmissions in general just by design.

Curious - how did you do a transmission flush in a parking lot?!

just a quick point on the brake clunk.. check out the shoes.I've had 2 delaminate from the backing plate that would make a heck of a racket. Don't just pull the drum off, see if the friction material is actually attached to the backing plate

I'm going to fool with the brakes again this weekend. The shoes are brand new so if they are already de-laminating I'll be surprised but then again maybe not. I'm probably going to try your arcing trick and adjust the shoes out till they have just a touch of drag. I had adjusted a previous set too much a while back and man those drums got hot! So this time I was just going to let them adjust themselves, but either they aren't adjusting, and yes I lubed the backing plates and the adjustment screw threads, or it just does it so little each time it take a lot more back up stops than I've done so far. Wish me luck!

Kind of hate to go on about drums on this thread but oh well...

I bought new adjusters, put them in and adjusted to give slight drag yet still have the noise. I does it when I pull the e-brake too. I'm thinking like this thread that the drums are not round.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=963383

I wish I'd saved the old drums and could put them on to compare!

the other thing you can do is purposely adjust the shoes so that they don't push into the drum at all. (So when the wheel is on, if you spin the wheel it'll rotate several times 4-5). Then understand that the self adjusters will adjust. As the fronts do the bulk of the braking the shoes may just settle in a bit easier. With aftermarket parts that aren't super true sometimes you'll get bad, non-round drums and shoes which don't match up too well either.

Another thing is, assuming that with the shoes adjusted just as they are, if you can spin the wheel about a full turn or maybe 3/4, you can leave them that way. They'll get hot but after 10 miles or so the drum/shoes will be more congruent.

If you back the adjusters off as indicated above, just be careful and make sure that you have a few reverse/forward driving periods to help the adjusters-adjust.

The wear on the shoes, all 4, looked just right. Looked like the shoe arc was slightly smaller than the drums and that the wear was in the middle 80% and 10% on each end wasn't rubbing. Was thinking I'd tossed the old drums but found where I put them and tried them. All thumping/clunking went away so I'm going to assume that the new shoes were just out of round. Took old shoe back to Advance Auto and they gave me a refund.

However on the way there the O/D off light started flashing and the message center said Check Transmission. And it wasn't going into OD, just third. It's still shifting smoothly. I check tranny fluid when I got home and it seems low so I'm going to stop in Jiffy Lube tomorrow and have them top it off. I glanced at the 1-2 servo cover and noticed a drop of fluid on the junction to the tranny so I may need to check the tightness of those bolts. Always somethin'...

Curious - how did you do a transmission flush in a parking lot?!

By the Wiswind method, remove a cooler line and put it in a can. Start the engine and while the old fluid is being pumped out keep pouring fresh fluid in. Once you get to about 10 quarts you have exchanged most of the old fluid.

A remote starter helps or you could have 2 people, it is hard to get the new in as fast as the old pumps out.

BTW ... Ford outlines the "Wiswind method" in the Windstar shop manual. Hope he is still getting those royalty checks!

sorry for your news but at least it's a solid "find" for a problem. And no, the photo doesn't show up for me, just a text box that says attached thumbnail.

I deleted my previous attempt, not sure what it didn't like about that pic, wasn't even that large. And this one won't enlarge. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, no real big deal I guess. Anyway broke right where it necks down and has a hole drilled in it. I just wasn't paying attention to the fact that I had the 2 lower bolts in a lot further than the top 1 and it snapped. I heard it at the time but just thought it was something bound up that popped into place. But with this piston broken, no matter what forward gear I had it in, it would barely move at all if on a slight down grade.

Thank You for this timely information!:smokin:

Hey there guys. Not sure if this post is still active, but I've got a 2000 Taurus with the AX4 piece of shit in it. And it won't shift into second gear. Run in first and reverse, the clutch seems to engage to shift (like its in neutral) but just won't go over to second gear. Before it got this way, the tranny was slipping pretty rough, exactly how piper described it in his van in the original post on this thread. Any pointers or help out there??? I'm mechanically inclined, just need some pointers and ideas of what it may be???

My transmission issue is a failure to shift into second gear - but it will slowly accelerate to about 70 kph then shift into overdrive at a throttle acceleration just above fast idle.
It will only slip and rev up if one tries to accelerate.
Iit would however act correctly if I used the shifter to start off in second then shift manually up to OD...

Last week I went to a transmission shop I had previously used for another vehicle several years ago.

They describe several issues with these transmissions - among which are cracked pistons. All he described to me were cracked internal parts but he never said he had ever dealt with the low servo.

I bought my '96 Windstar with this problem and I parked for the winter.
I will take it into this transmission shop in May since he said he will then remove the low servo cover and take a look.

This is not a repair I want to deal with since I do not have a hoist but I have found the UPGRADE kit at the vendors indicated in this post.

The transmission shop indicated to me that Taurus has problems along with the Windstars.

I would guess winter driving is the root cause. Are we not supposed to let the vehicle warm properly before engaging the transmission? (a childhood recollection!)

I feel this is definitely worth a few hundred :banghead:dollars for the 'look' and probable servo replacement.:banghead:

I agree, a look into what is beneath the servo cover would be worthwhile and likely yield some info. Stepping back, when my low servo went, I reasoned that without removing the transmission, the servo is pretty much the only thing that's serviceable, aside from the usual fluid/filter changes. So, not having anything to loose, I figured it was worth a shot. I did first speak to the Ford service guy who "assured" me that the servo wasn't my problem, but upon opening the servo cover as detailed in my initial posts indeed the servo piston "e" clip was the culprit.

While I do have the luxury of a lift, I'd suggest that this repair is doable on the ground, assuming that you've got the van up on ramps. Whether the van is on the ground or in the air, (and you're lying down or standing) the space where you need to reach doesn't change. It's a tight squeeze but there are no heavy duty fasteners that require lots of physical ummpf or anything. I'd attempt it on the ground for sure. Just get your parts first.

Since I have the ramps and sufficient tools , I will order the kit and have a go at it in May.

I can always tow it to the transmission shop if needed.

Thanks a Lot , piper!.

piper, thank you for this write up. my '00 with 241k miles has 1-2 shifted poorly for a while. along with some body rust, the van is on it's last leg. i was curious, if the e clip is broke on mine, is there space available for the broke fragments to circulate out of that bore and into the rest of the trans? i'm considering this repair but i do not want it to snowball.

tia,
parker

Hi Parker,

I believe that if the clip broke it could be drawn into the body of the transmission. As I said in my write-up, luckily I found all the pieces and was able to confirm that nothing was floating around in mine.. I hope you'd have the same luck!

It's not that bad a repair and I'd suggest it's certainly worth it to try. Just get the screws of 2 or 3 lengths so you can incrementally tighten the cap on once you're done. That's the toughest part of the job IMO.

Good luck!

Ditto ... I had a very similar experience; recovered all pieces of the clip.

And "ditto" on the additional screws of longer lengths ... or some all-thread rod.

Definitely worth a try, but at 241K your transmission is almost certainly due for a rebuild. Obviously that depends if you're going to keep the van, but I just had it rebuilt on our 2002 (165K miles) and I have to tell you, it's like driving a whole new van. There wasn't really anything majorly wrong, although there was 1-2 shudder and an occasional flare (temporary "miss" or slip on 1-2) but just the amount of power it has now is impressive. The clutch packs, seals, etc. just get worn down after a while, especially in bigger vehicles like minivans. Simply dropping it off at a shop and picking it up 3 days later, the total cost was $1750, and that included a new torque converter, fluid, and a complete rebuild. If you get a good shop, they generally know these vans inside and out and do a really good job. Amazingly, they never even removed the axles from the wheel hubs!

If you're going to keep the van a few more years, you probably need a rebuild. Then again, if not, see if you can recover and replace that clip!