P0340 on a 95 Windstar 3.8L - Camshaft Position Sensor

I'm getting P0340 and I went to go replace the CPS tonight on my 95 3.8L and I removed the coil pack because it looked like I'd be able to easily remove the CPS by taking that off. Once I got the coil pack off, it didn't seem as easy to remove the CPS as I thought.

Anyway, do I have to remove the alternator to get to this sensor? If so, I've never been able to remove the belt without pulling the passenger wheel off and turning the tensioner back far enough to remove the belt. Can anyone confirm removing the belt from up top on the 95 and what wrench or socket wrench do you use to get the the tensioner bent back far enough to remove the belt? If I could do it this way, removing the alternator would be so much easier to get to the CPS.

Is the size of the bolts on the CPS 5.5mm ?

I understand the '95 had a unique engine. The location of the cam pos sensor may have been different. The front cover was somewhat different to later models ... the location of the belt-driven devices got moved around a bit. Even more relocations were made between '98 and '99.

I can tell you where the devices are on the '99, but you had best refer to a Haynes, or the like, for better info on your engine.

On the '99, the cam position sensor is triggered by the "sychronizer" assembly which sticks down thru the front cover. Therefore the sensor is located near the top-front of the engine. The belt does not have to come off to service it ... but it is a bit covered by power steering lines, etc.

On the '99, the crank position sensor is "behind" (on the engine RH side) down near the crank wheel. You can hardly see it from above. Having the belt off does make for easier access.

Camshaft position sensor 'should' be at the passenger side end of the engine.
It should be on top of the engine....close to, the belt.
I am only familiar with the '96 version, but I have to think that it would be located in pretty much the same location on the '95.
It is held in place on top of the syncro by 2 small bolts.
There is no adjustment.....you remove the 2 small bolts on top of the sensor and unplug the electrical connector, installation is the reverse of removal.

Here is a link to where it is on the '96 3.8L.
In this case, it is kind of buried under the IMRC vaccum lines, which the '95 does not have.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/41574862@N08/8256224630/in/set-72157632198092975

Hopefully this will help you. This is from autozone.com repair guides:

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4b//small/0900c152800ae14b.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4b/large/0900c152800ae14b.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig. 3: Camshaft position sensor alignment-3.8L engine)
Fig. Fig. 3: Camshaft position sensor alignment-3.8L engine




http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4c//small/0900c152800ae14c.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4c/medium/0900c152800ae14c.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig. 4: Camshaft position sensor components)
Fig. Fig. 4: Camshaft position sensor components




http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4d//small/0900c152800ae14d.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4d/medium/0900c152800ae14d.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig. 5: The CMP sensor is attached to the fuel charging wiring harness with a three-terminal connector)
Fig. Fig. 5: The CMP sensor is attached to the fuel charging wiring harness with a three-terminal connector




http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4e//small/0900c152800ae14e.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4e/medium/0900c152800ae14e.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig. 6: It is extremely important to matchmark the position of the CMP sensor to the engine)
Fig. Fig. 6: It is extremely important to matchmark the position of the CMP sensor to the engine




http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4f//small/0900c152800ae14f.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/4f/medium/0900c152800ae14f.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig. 7: If the sensor and housing are to be removed as an assembly, loosen the housing retaining bolt ...)
Fig. Fig. 7: If the sensor and housing are to be removed as an assembly, loosen the housing retaining bolt ...




http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/50//small/0900c152800ae150.jpg
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_icon.gifhttp://www.autozone.com/autozone/images/repair_guide/enlarge_tooltip.gif (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e1/50/medium/0900c152800ae150.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig. 8: ... then remove the housing with the sensor and oil pump intermediate shaft)
Fig. Fig. 8: ... then remove the housing with the sensor and oil pump intermediate shaft


Rotate the engine so that the No. 1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke and the timing pointer is at 0 degrees on the scale.
Matchmark the position of the camshaft position sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the fuel charging electrical harness from the CMP sensor.
Remove the CMP sensor retaining screws and lift the sensor from the housing.
If the CMP housing is to be removed, proceed as follows:
Remove the housing hold down clamp.
Lift the sensor housing and oil pump intermediate shaft from the engine as an assembly.





To install:

When replacing the CMP housing with a new housing, the replacement should contain a plastic locator cover tool. If the plastic cover tool is missing, a special service tool must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement sensor. Failure to follow this procedure will result in improper camshaft position sensor alignment. This will result in the ignition system and fuel system being out of time with the engine and possibly cause severe engine damage.

If the plastic locator cover tool is not attached to the replacement camshaft position sensor, attach Syncro Positioning Tool (T95T-12200-A ) for a 3.0L engine or (T89T-12200-A ) for a 3.8L engine as follows:
Engage CMP sensor housing vane into the radial slot of the tool.
Rotate tool on CMP sensor housing until tool boss engages notch in CMP sensor housing.



Transfer oil pump intermediate shaft from old CMP sensor housing to replacement housing.
Install CMP sensor housing so drive gear engagement occurs when arrow on locator tool is pointed approximately as shown in the illustrations. This step should align the CMP sensor electrical connector with the matchmark made during removal.
Install the hold down clamp and tighten bolt to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
Remove the syncro positioning tool.




CAUTION
If the CMP sensor electrical connector is not positioned properly, do not reposition the connector by rotating the CMP sensor housing. This will result in improper camshaft position sensor alignment. This will result in the ignition system and fuel system being out of time with the engine and possibly cause severe engine damage. Remove the CMP housing and repeat installation.




Install the CMP sensor and retaining screws. Tighten the sensor screws to 22-31 inch lbs. (3-4 Nm) for a 3.0L engine or 40-62 inch lbs. (5-7 Nm) for a 3.8L engine.
Conenct CMP sensor wiring harness.
Connect the negative battery cable.

That is one of the most confusing drawings I've ever seen. I've serviced/removed/replaced the synchronizer several times successfully. I, to this day, cannot make any sense of that "view A"!

The SENSOR is easy to replace......the syncro is more complicated and easy to mess up.

The key to the sensor replacement is to ONLY remove the 2 bolts on top of the sensor and the electrical connection.
Then.....just make sure that the electrical connector is on the same side.....it will be in the correct position....no way to mess that up unless you try to put it on 180 degrees wrong....with the electrical connection on the opposite side.

On the '96 through '98 years, it is hard to get a good photo of it because it is buried in there with the IMRC vaccum lines.
My old camera would always focus in on those and the sensor would be blurry.
I did a bit of working with my newer camera and was able to get a clear picture of the sensor.

The '95 model year did not have the IMRC system, so it should be easier to see.
But the bottom line......once you purchase the correct sensor replacement part, the repair is super easy....and the part is not expensive.

Gosh, I love you guys. :) I really do.

Well, just after I wrote the original post, I went to Sears one day during holiday gift rush and bought a serpentine belt removal tool... which is a very long slim bar that comes with a socket set and a crow's feet set and a slim extension bar if needed. One time before I had rented this from Autozone and all they gave me was the long bar and none of the accessories... and at the time I didn't know I'd need those accessories to use the tool.

1000's of times easier when you have this tool......... the SERPENTINE BELT REMOVAL TOOL........ the days of removing the passenger wheel are over..... I stuck the tool in there from above the engine bay, released the belt with ease, removed the alternator with ease... then remove the CPS with ease and put it all back together just as easily. Took it for a late night ride on the interstate and drove fine.

Now the van starts up 90-95% of the time on the first try and the surging forward after starting it up is gone and the CEL is gone.

I try to always come to post back after things are fixed because I see that most people don't. This is my way of giving back. I hope someone else finds this thread useful for their old van or other old Ford.

Now it seems I have other problems... seems lately there have been new problems with the van almost every 2 weeks. Its been pretty difficult lately. I will post another thread.

I had the same code for my 3.8 95 Windstar, camshaft position sensor A circuit. I replaced the camshaft position sensor (which is underneath the coil block, fairly easy) and when I tried to start the engine it still does not start. Any other options I could do. Thank you.