95 Windstar Front End Problem

Man where do I begin guys? These vehicles seem to have more problems than Carter has liver pills. I've been feeling some slop in the steering wheel. I did both wheel bearings a while back. What a job that was when you don't have a press. I put it up in the air a little while ago and was thinking outer tie rod ends. But no, I can move the left side about 1/4" and the right side a good 1/2".

It's coming from the inners, but I can't tell if it has something to do with the rack or if it's the inner tie rod ends. I've read a couple threads about the rack and inners. Is the rack prone to getting slop in it or is it usually the inner tie rod ends?

I didn't know you could replace bearings on first-generation Winnies, do they use a different hub than second-generation models? On my own '00 bearings are sealed and can't be replaced without replacing the whole hub.

I didn't know you could replace bearings on first-generation Winnies, do they use a different hub than second-generation models? On my own '00 bearings are sealed and can't be replaced without replacing the whole hub.
Yeah, I wish mine was that way, it would've been a lot less trouble. You have to take the entire hub assy. off, press the old bearings out and then press the new ones in. The problem for me was that I don't have a bench press. So I had to remove both assys., load them up in my truck and take them way across town to a friends place that does have a press so I could do it. It's a real PITA let me tell ya!

The inners wear more, but the rack teeth wear some ... and when rack teeth wear things get dangerous really quickly! I vote for a rack assembly replacement ... even though it is a bit of a job. Tip: the rack is held in place by splined bolts ... they must be driven out, you can't turn them!

AutoZone. I'm on my second or third one at 350k miles.

Something I forgot to mention in the first post was that it's been wearing the front tires on the edges. That would lead me to believe that it is a tie rod issue. It also makes a squeaking noise when turning the wheel back and forth. It's been doing that for a real long time now. I have no idea what would be causing that.

....as I wrote above: the rack! It includes both inners.

The inners wear more, but the rack teeth wear some ... and when rack teeth wear things get dangerous really quickly! I vote for a rack assembly replacement ... even though it is a bit of a job. Tip: the rack is held in place by splined bolts ... they must be driven out, you can't turn them!

AutoZone. I'm on my second or third one at 350k miles.
Hey man, how's my neighbor from Hotlanta doing these days? I was hoping you were going to tell me that all it needed was a little JB weld and all would be well.:rofl:

Something I forgot to mention in the first post was that it's been wearing the front tires on the edges. That would lead me to believe that it is a tie rod issue. It also makes a squeaking noise when turning the wheel back and forth. It's been doing that for a real long time now. I have no idea what would be causing that.

I'm with 12oz on this one, sounds like a worn rack. But the squeak in itself could also be caused by the strut mount bushings, happens mostly with the polyurethane variety during parking maneuvers. This can be annoying but it doesn't affect driveability.

I'm with 12oz on this one, sounds like a worn rack. But the squeak in itself could also be caused by the strut mount bushings, happens mostly with the polyurethane variety during parking maneuvers. This can be annoying but it doesn't affect driveability.
Could be, but everything I've read so far about the rack being worn complained of spots in the turning radius where the steering wheel would catch or bind. I also read about the seals leaking on them, mine isn't doing any of that. I read that the squeaking is usually caused by the lower control arm bushings. This may be the same thing you're talking about since it does connect to the strut. I can get the whole control arm with new bushings and ball joints for $20.00 a piece. It would only be about 40 or 50 bucks more to replace the rack instead of just the tie rods.

I'll let the wife decide since it's hers anyway. I swore I wasn't going to put another one of my wrenches on the damned thing after I did the rear brakes and wheel cylinders a month or so ago. I HATE working on that POS. Hey 12 ounce, can I just bring it to you? I'll bring the beer and the aspirin.

If one waits until the rack wears 'til the point of binding (I've been there!), things are very dangerous. Can you imagine how little binding it would take to keep you from steering away from a head-on collision? I tend to err on the side of "replacing too early" ... if such a thing can be.

As much as I love to work on a Windstar (peals of laughter heard in background!), I'm gonna pass on your kind invitation!

A reman rack and pinion, complete with new inner tie rod joints, will set you back around $100 - $130 before taxes. I would replace outers at the same time, maybe include anti-sway bushings and links also ... and be done with it.

If one waits until the rack wears 'til the point of binding (I've been there!), things are very dangerous. Can you imagine how little binding it would take to keep you from steering away from a head-on collision? I tend to err on the side of "replacing too early" ... if such a thing can be.

As much as I love to work on a Windstar (peals of laughter heard in background!), I'm gonna pass on your kind invitation!

A reman rack and pinion, complete with new inner tie rod joints, will set you back around $100 - $130 before taxes. I would replace outers at the same time, maybe include anti-sway bushings and links also ... and be done with it.

Damn, can't blame a guy for trying can ya? Maybe she'll come up with the extra dough and pay someone else to do it. Back to reality now, I'll be the dumb bastard that gets stuck with it. WTH was I thinking? But hey, if you live on the east side of Atlanta and I do it at night when everything is quiet. You'll be able to hear me cursing all the way up there. It'll be cheap entertainment, enjoy!!!

I live in NE Atlanta - let me know how it goes. Right before I took over maintenance, a shop changed the rack in our 02. I figure someday it'll have ot be done again. I hate taking off steel lines with the flare wrenches, though. Especially those %$#@ing brake lines!

I live in NE Atlanta - let me know how it goes. Right before I took over maintenance, a shop changed the rack in our 02. I figure someday it'll have ot be done again. I hate taking off steel lines with the flare wrenches, though. Especially those %$#@ing brake lines!
Thanks, will do my friend, I'm going to make her get out there with me this time around. If for nothing else than a tool gopher. I had spine surgery on my neck at St. Joesph's up there on the north side in 2008. It just kills me to be doing this kind of stuff these days.

The rack doesn't LOOK too bad to do on this van (i.e. the one on my camry looks way, WAY worse if I ever had to change it out.) It looks like there might just be enough room to slide it out through the left wheel well without having to take off too much else.

I'm anxious to hear how it goes. Are you going to change the high pressure line while you're at it?

The rack doesn't LOOK too bad to do on this van (i.e. the one on my camry looks way, WAY worse if I ever had to change it out.) It looks like there might just be enough room to slide it out through the left wheel well without having to take off too much else.

I'm anxious to hear how it goes. Are you going to change the high pressure line while you're at it?
Haven't thought that far ahead yet, things are pretty tight right now money wise. I helped a friend do one on his 93 camry many years ago when I lived in Newton county. I remember it well, it was a nightmare.

Was that because it was a camry or because you were in newton county? (hah - kidding)

My camry is a 2002 V6 - talk about NO working room for ANYTHING. I'm already dreading next timing belt change and it's not due for another 40-50K.

Was that because it was a camry or because you were in newton county? (hah - kidding)

My camry is a 2002 V6 - talk about NO working room for ANYTHING. I'm already dreading next timing belt change and it's not due for another 40-50K.
Probably a little of both, his was a V6 as well. I still have nightmares about it. But hey, at least we weren't in Porterdale.

Here is a link for a remanufactored rack and pinion with lifetime warranty $84 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150557114355?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Here is a link for a remanufactored rack and pinion with lifetime warranty $84 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150557114355?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Man that's a great deal, my only concern with that would be is if I had a problem with it. I would then have to pay the return shipping on it. Have you dealt with them before and had a good result? I can get one from Advance for $98.00 with the same warranty.

A reman rack and pinion, complete with new inner tie rod joints, will set you back around $100 - $130 before taxes. I would replace outers at the same time, maybe include anti-sway bushings and links also ... and be done with it.

Dunno if 95-98 models are anything like 99-03's but replacing sway bar bushings is such a deceptively arduous ordeal that I wouldn't be surprised to hear him uttering expletives from way up here. "It's a 5-min job, 10-min tops" said the NAPA guy. Yeah right, more like 3 hours. You have to drop the subframe about 3 inches and those bolts have such a death grip on the frame that my arms were sore for a week after I was done. All of that because of ONE STUPID NUT on the bushing bracket that can't be reached otherwise :mad:

Unless you have a lift the procedure is best done using two jacks and two jackstands, incredibly tedious job.

Man that's a great deal, my only concern with that would be is if I had a problem with it. I would then have to pay the return shipping on it. Have you dealt with them before and had a good result? I can get one from Advance for $98.00 with the same warranty.


I have not had any dealings with them. There is another forum that I am on of which a fella from Ford Company in Detroit has used without any problems and he does reecommend them to people on that forum.
You could email them the question about the cost to send the faulty rack back to them. I do believe that they will cover the cost but you need to confirm.

Personally I would be more comfortable getting from detroit axle than Autozone, but that is my opinion.

I have not had any dealings with them. There is another forum that I am on of which a fella from Ford Company in Detroit has used without any problems and he does reecommend them to people on that forum.
You could email them the question about the cost to send the faulty rack back to them. I do believe that they will cover the cost but you need to confirm.

Personally I would be more comfortable getting from detroit axle than Autozone, but that is my opinion.
They have to be getting a super deal on the shipping to sell it for that price and include the shipping. Thanks again for the info!

Personally I would be more comfortable getting from detroit axle than Autozone, but that is my opinion.

Detroit? You mean directly from Ford or is that another supplier? If it's from Ford I would check first if the part has to come from Canada (all Windstars come from there) and if so, make sure they won't charge duty fees.

He's talking about Detroit axle is the name of the company I believe that has the reman rack. I have it ordered along with everything else guys. Anything else I need to know about the process to R&R that rack. Only the 2 rear subframe bolts need to be removed, right? I know someone said you needed 2 jacks. I guess to lower the subframe once you get the vehicle up in the air on jackstands. But could you do it with one if you get it in the center of the subframe?

I've replaced the rack on a Winny perhaps two times. I don't remember many difficult details ... so it must not have been too difficult. The mounting design is rather good ... the steering rack on a number of vehicles is mounted to the firewall. In this case, they are mounted in rubber isolators to provide a bit of "give". If these rubber isolators get too worn, the steering becomes very loose.

In the case of the Winny, the rack is hard-mounted to the subframe. Therefore the "give" is provided by the sub-frame mounting isolators ... which seem to last a long while.

Tips:
1. Begin with the front wheels facing straight-ahead. Use a rope or large tie-wraps to anchor the strng wheel to the driver's seat. You don't want the steering wheel loose so it can be turned a full revolution accidentally ... but you do want the wheel anchored loose enough for some back and forth movement.
2. Remember that the two main rack mounting bolts are splined. After the nuts are removed, grab the hammer and drive them upward.
3. Before removing the hyd tubes from the rack ... use paint sticks, or tape, or something to mark them in some way. Otherwise you will be confused when its time to reconnect. "Which tube goes where??"!
4. Expect trouble when you try to align the rack input shaft to the steering column shaft. If you are not very lucky, it can take a while ... and much cussing. Ford recommends a new attaching bolt be used and it should be torqued to spec (which I don't remember the value.) But there is almost no room for a torque wrench anyway! Preposition the rack to the center of its travel before beginning this procedure....otherwise you will be off-centered beyond correction.

Okay guys, it's all done, thanks for all the advice. Special thanks to tempfixit for the awesome deal on the rack. They didn't even charge me a core charge, but when the box arrived yesterday. There was a note enclosed to please return the core and a shipping label to return it free of charge. I would definitely deal with them again. It drives like brand new now with the rack, new lower control arms, sway bar bushings and outer tie rod ends.

Bad news folks, the wife told me yesterday that the steering was making a bunch of noise. The PS fluid was low. I topped it off and drove it up on the ramps a little while ago. This reman rack I put in it is leaking. Right at the top seal where the steering knuckle attaches, what a PITA!

If it's leaking from the high pressure hose connection, you can just unscrew it and change the teflon seal.

If it's leaking from the high pressure hose connection, you can just unscrew it and change the teflon seal.
I wish I was that lucky, the hose fittings are dry. It's leaking from the very top input shaft and running down the other small steel lines that are connected.

That sucks. How tough was it to swap out? I haven't actually done a full swap before (although I have a hunch it's coming up thanks to a curb that allegedly jumped out in front of the wife while turning a corner...)

That sucks. How tough was it to swap out? I haven't actually done a full swap before (although I have a hunch it's coming up thanks to a curb that allegedly jumped out in front of the wife while turning a corner...)
I'll put it to you this way. I'm REAL tempted to go beat somebody down and steal their money so I can pay someone else to do it this time.

I only live an hour or so away from you. Let me know when this will happen so I can take some video.

I only live an hour or so away from you. Let me know when this will happen so I can take some video.
If you'll bring 1 more person to work the camera and can come up with enough for the labor. I'll let you give me a beatdown. You could probably sell the video to America's funniest home videos and make your money back pretty quick.:lol:

I've just put another reman steering rack in the Windstar ... don't know if I'm that sloppy a driver ... or just too finicky about looseness. I can't complain about the quality of the AutoZone units ... they seem just fine.

One thing about AutoZone's racks ... you only buy the first one, they are all lifetime replacements thereafter.....

I've just put another reman steering rack in the Windstar ... don't know if I'm that sloppy a driver ... or just too finicky about looseness. I can't complain about the quality of the AutoZone units ... they seem just fine.

One thing about AutoZone's racks ... you only buy the first one, they are all lifetime replacements thereafter.....
The one I bought has a lifetime warranty as well. It doesn't pay for labor though.

A lifetime warranty on what might be a low-quality unit ... sounds like a poor bet to me. The AutoZone unit is much higher in price ... but I've yet to have one not give thousands of miles of service.

Can you get your money back ....since the unit failed soon after installation?

A lifetime warranty on what might be a low-quality unit ... sounds like a poor bet to me. The AutoZone unit is much higher in price ... but I've yet to have one not give thousands of miles of service.

Can you get your money back ....since the unit failed soon after installation?
I agree, but I've had the same problem with parts from AZ and Advance too. As a matter of fact, the alternator on this windstar came from AZ. I'm on my 4th one in the last 3 years. That's not near as bad a job as the rack though. I believe it really all depends on the person that's rebuilding whatever part it is. I called Detroit axle yesterday and the girl told me to fax them my original invoice. I did so, but didn't hear anything back from them. I'm pretty sure after 9 months, they probably aren't going to give me a refund. If I thought the POS would make it up there. I'd bring it to them and make them do it one time. I bet once they seen what was involved to R&R it, they'd give me a good one.

One week later and nada folks. I just called AGAIN and got the guy from the warranty dept. He said he never got the fax from last week. So I got his email address. I scanned the invoice to a file and emailed it to him. He called me right back and said he received it. He asked me what was wrong with it. So I told him that it was leaking around the input shaft. He told me and I don't know how true this is so maybe some of ya'll can chime in here. He said that is usually caused by a restriction in one of the lines. He also said that if that's the case. It's leaving pressure on the rack and that's the weakest spot for it to leak. I call Bullshtein. It's working too good for that to be the case IMHO.

Sometimes stuff happens! The shortest lived reman rack I have ever bought was from Ford. 90 day warranty. How good is that? (Not very.) It may have lasted one year.

Sometimes stuff happens! The shortest lived reman rack I have ever bought was from Ford. 90 day warranty. How good is that? (Not very.) It may have lasted one year.
Not very good as far as I'm concerned. He said he's sending me another one. I had to give them a 40 dollar deposit that will be refunded when I send the defective one back. I also have to pay the shipping, that's not refundable. I think I'll take your advice on stuff like this from now on. It may fail from advance or AZ. But at least you won't be waiting on them to replace it if it does fail.