Power steering pump replacement issues

I replaced the pump in 2001 Windstar and I think I might have messed up.

I can't get it to stop leaking from between the pressure line and the line fitting.

I don't see any place that the line seals inside the pump. The end isn't a regular flare(that would be too easy) it's a tulip shaped bulb on the end but I don't know how that is supposed to seal.

Unfortunately, I already returned the core before I noticed the leak but now I'm thinking there must have been a seat insert in the OE pump that I was supposed to transfer to the new one even though the Haynes manual nor the instructions that came with the new pump.

I've been looking for a blowup diagram of the pump but so far no luck.

I know several people have done this repair but after searching around, I don't find anyone talking about having this problem.

Any help would be appreciated.

There's a white Teflon o-ring that goes on that hose fitting. Your auto parts store should have one. I'm surprised the replacement pump didn't come with one. It's supposed to be replaced whenever you disconnect that fitting.

That's definitely your problem!

Dorman "help" line has it -part # 82540. It's the smaller of the two in the pack.

The teflon ring is on.

It's not leaking between the thread and pump body, it's leaking between the tube and the tube nut.

Dorman "help" line has it -part # 82540. It's the smaller of the two in the pack.

Doh! Didn't even think of them. I ordered a six pack from the local Ford dealer.

In addition to the teflon o-ring, there was a smaller rubber o-ring in the bag. I didn't see any instructions as to where it went but does it maybe go in first to seal the tube to the pump?

There doesn't appear to be any sealing surface in the pump so I have no idea how this thing is ever supposed to seal.

I've been looking for an exploded view online. Does anyone have access to AllData or something similar that could see if the o-ring is supposed to go inside?

Ford uses a double seal in their pressure lines, one between the threads and pump body (teflon seal) and one between the nut assembly and tube (o-ring). If you're talking about your original line, it's possible that the o-ring may become damaged during the removal process if it's a brand new line, it must be faulty.

Around here there are places that rebuild those lines for the equivalent to $10 dlls. I don't know if you'll be able to find one where you live.

Oscar.

Ford uses a double seal in their pressure lines, one between the threads and pump body (teflon seal) and one between the nut assembly and tube (o-ring). If you're talking about your original line, it's possible that the o-ring may become damaged during the removal process if it's a brand new line, it must be faulty.

Around here there are places that rebuild those lines for the equivalent to $10 dlls. I don't know if you'll be able to find one where you live.

Oscar.

Might as well replace the line at that point given the age. A new one is $39 at autozone and comes with all new seals installed on it.

Ford uses a double seal in their pressure lines, one between the threads and pump body (teflon seal) and one between the nut assembly and tube (o-ring). If you're talking about your original line, it's possible that the o-ring may become damaged during the removal process if it's a brand new line, it must be faulty.

Around here there are places that rebuild those lines for the equivalent to $10 dlls. I don't know if you'll be able to find one where you live.

Oscar.

I guarantee the rubber o-ring was damaged. I had to heat the snot out of the OE pump to get the line off. :iceslolan

I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can figure where that o-ring goes.

I hate to drop another $40 on this thing when I'm already buying $12 worth of teflon I'll never need again.

Thanks!

Might as well replace the line at that point given the age. A new one is $39 at autozone and comes with all new seals installed on it.

I would agree, however I remember that Ford updated their high pressure lines with a newer design to prevent it form making noises. The newer design is $69 and the old design is $39. I don't know how good or bad that is.

I guarantee the rubber o-ring was damaged. I had to heat the snot out of the OE pump to get the line off. :iceslolan

I'll take a look tomorrow and see if I can figure where that o-ring goes.

I hate to drop another $40 on this thing when I'm already buying $12 worth of teflon I'll never need again.

Thanks!

The o-ring is fitted in bewteen the nut assembly and the tube. I have no idea how people removes it; when I had the one on my Lincoln rebuilt, the guy took it away so I couldn't see how he did it. Might just be a press fit, can't be sure.

Oscar.

Well it's good news/bad news/good news/bad news/good news/bad news here!

The Ford guy ordered the wrong Teflon rings so I didn't have to spend $12 for 6 that I don't need.

They do stock the one I needed so it only cost me $2.65 but I ended up not using it anyway.

AutoZone had the line because there's no way for the average person to replace that stupid seal inside the nut.

Took some wrangling but I got the line replaced, got the SECOND AutoZone pump on and everything hooked back up and it still WHINES like a wounded dog.

So...the question is, why is it whining? I haven't changed the belt yet but that's next on the list. It'd be a real kick in the pants if that was the problem the whole time!

Whining is air in the system you need to bleed out.

Everyone has their own way of doing this, but what I did was lift the front end and pull the fuel pump relay. I'd then run the starter for about 5-10 seconds and turn the wheel back and forth a few times (to each stop). Give the starter a good minute or so between runs. After about 4-5 times doing this, the whining will go away.

Question: Did you look inside the fluid reservoir and make sure that screen was clear of black gunk? A lot of times that screen gets clogged up blocking the fluid from flowing freely..

I've done plenty of racks and I always put them in the air and started the engine and slowly worked the rack back and forth being careful not to hit the stops.

No luck this time.

Took it for a drive, still whining.

And I took the reservoir off, soaked it in my parts washer then hosed it out with carb cleaner and blew it dry before I reinstalled it.

I flushed the old pump before I took it off by putting the return line into a pan, stuck a funnel into the suction line and ran a quart of new fluid through it then I installed a filter on the return line before I put everything back together.

My wife just got back from the supermarket with it and it's still whining.

Not sure what else to do.

I appreciate all the replies though!

I'm sorr to hear about the whining, it's something I hate and just can't stand that noise LOL. My Pontiac whines constantly and it's already in the third steering pump, new rack and both lines replaced. I just don't know what else to do with it!

Now back to your problem. Was each one of the clamps and nuts tightened properly? I had a problem once where one of the clamps was slightly loose and that kept causing some whining. Other than that, I have no idea what else to check.

Oscar.

i had the same trouble my wifes 2002 winni i replace the rack and pump payed someone to bleed it the winn cam back is did a post on this but what i did is diconnected the return line put it in a bucket pluged that fitting on the resoivor then started pouring the fluid in with the helper stared the engine let it run shut of the engine before it runs dry then repeat it worked the van is still winn free the post im talking about is on page 2 how to bleed air out without a vacuem pump 8-29-2012

I just barely tightened them finger tight with a wrench.

The instructions with the new line said only 10-12 ft-lbs and that some movement in the line was normal.

The last thing I wanted to do was wreck those Teflon washers.

Neither end leaks so I'm guessing it's good enough.

When I replaced the pump on my Town Car (which uses the same system) I tightened everything like there is no tomorrow! I didn't have the proper crows foot wrench back then to properly torque the nuts.

Do you see any foaming in the fluid reservoir? I would focus more on the return line just in case as it can create some vacuum and pull air in.

Oscar.

Don't see any foaming but I checked it today and it looks like the level is down a bit so I'm thinking there is still air coming out.