2000 coolant flush and refill

Hi guys, I hope you're all well!

I'm getting ready to drain, flush and refill the coolant in my 2000 windstar, comes with the rear unit too.

I understand what it takes to do it, I've done it with my other two cars, but never done it in the windstar (yeah I know, NEGLECTED!) which seems to be very different than the other two cars. Some years ago, when we rebuilt the engine we filled it with straight water, I know it's not good, but temperatures over here are not as extreme as you guys up north. The internal rust problem is another matter, I know the coolant reservoir looks rusty...

That takes me to the first question: Do you recommend any product to remove all of the internal rust that may have accumulated? Any concerns regarding the heater core? Should I just skip a cleaning agent and refill with a 50-50 mix?

Second question: Is the OEM thermostat 180ºF?. Right??

Third question: My Lincoln uses an O-ring like thermostat gasket, do windstars have one too? Or is it just a regular housing gasket?

Fourth question: How should I proceed about flushing it, specially with the heater core? Should I run water through the reservoir until water comes clean from the radiator drain? With my Lincoln I remove the heater hose from the intake manifold very easily but I don't think it will be so with the windstar, specially with the quick connect fitting above the thermostat which really scares the hell out of me! LOL.

I read that draining the system should take 80% of the 16qts. of coolant out; take should take 3 gallons of 50-50 mix. Since it has straight water, and I'll be flushing with it, I plan to add 2 gallons of concentrated coolant and top with distilled water; that should get me to the 50-50 mix.

Thanks in advance for your help guys, I appreciate any further comments.

Oscar.

When I've flushed my '00 Windstar, I've opened up the system at several points:

- The lower-passenger side radiator hose connection (it's a spring clamp, and pretty easy to get to)
- One of the hose connections on the underside of the rear of the van for the rear heater core (again, a spring clamp, and not difficult to access)
- I've also taken off the infamous quick-disconnect near the throttle body, to make sure fresh water goes through from the top of the engine - and makes it to the heater core. I'll admit that - based on the experiences of others here - it can be a high-risk (i.e., easy to break) item, but I haven't had problems.

I then use a hose at these locations and the reservoir, flushing until everything comes out clean. You'll note I didn't mention the bottom radiator drain: I've used it in the past, but have also decided that it's easier to just disconnect the bottom radiator hose, which basically accomplishes the same thing.

If you see rust in your system, I would use some kind of flush agent. If no rust - or anything else nasty-looking, I would just flush and refill with distilled water mixed with quality engine coolant.

It's been awhile since I've done the thermostat, so memory is failing me. Though I seem to recall an O-ring gasket.

Another item to consider: In my experience, once you've opened up the rear of the system, it can take awhile to work out the air bubbles in the system. I took a drive up and down the steepest nearby hills I could find, topping off the reservoir as I worked the bubbles out.

the only caution I'd add to this is that the drivers side rad drain plug is a plastic plug that screws into the rad in order to cause the drain to open. (at least it's that way on my 2000 3.8) If you torque too hard, which isn't much, the plug will break. It's not possible, from my understanding to replace this plug should it break other than replacing the rad.. which you DON'T want to do. So, take the advice and release the rad fluid via hose clamps and forget about the drain plug.

Piper -

Thanks for pointing this out. You helped me recall the other reason I don't bother with the radiator petcock: I once broke a plastic radiator petcock while servicing coolant on a '90 Isuzu Trooper - and spent too much time tracking down the replacement part (without having to buy a new radiator). It's just too easy to break those little plastic valves...

Thank you Phil and Piper,

having read you're comments, other than the rear heater core, there isn't much difference between servicing the Windstar or servicing the Town Car. I'll be careful with the quick disconnect thing. I've read some users decided to cut the line and use a regular screw type clamp.

I've never had a problem with the plastic plug, but I'll take into account your advise!

Phil, which side should I check to remove the rear heater hose? I believe is the driver's side?

Today, while I was changing the steering fluid (which didn't help much) I took a look at the engine compartment to see the connections you mentioned. This shouldn't be too much hassle, I think...

Do you know of any good flushing agent to clean the coolant system?

Oscar.

Oscar, I'd just start with water honestly. It might be the sort of thing where you flush with water, drive for a month or so, then flush again. Knowing that you haven't done scheduled maintenance on the rad, I don't think I'd personally be getting to aggressive on trying to descale it or anything. Some flushing agents are too rough in my opinion.

olopezm -

The connections I mentioned are under the van, in the rear on the driver's side. I can't recall the specific details - but I remember that it wasn't too difficult to disconnect one of the hoses to help flush the system.

In regards to flush agents: The retailers in my area tend to carry the Prestone kits, so that's all I've seen. As piper noted, I'd go easy on the flush agent.

My SS and I just went through the broken plastic plug ordeal. I replaced the plug he had broken, and had a session with him explaining the o-ring seal method that is used ... and the fact that there is no need, no benefit, in over-tightening the plug. In fact, if you leave the plug a half-turn "loose" ... it still will seal just fine, never leak a drop of coolant, and never come more loose and fall out. There is just no way!

I never flush and drain coolant as a maintenance practice. Oh sure, if the system is open for some other reason, hose replacements (now I do believe in this!), pump replacement or such .... then I will dump the old and replace with new. But I make no effort to scour the system of old stuff .... a simple dumping will do.

On the other hand, I do anything to avoid rust. I normally keep the coolant rich in anti-freeze ... over 60%. If, for some reason, I need to drive the vehicle some while, even if just around the block, without anti-freeze in the coolant .... I dump in several spoonfuls of baking soda to keep the rust at bay.

Thank you ver much guys, I'm taking into consideration all of your comments, I guess I'm all set to do the job. I found the old procedure we used when we refilled it with water to burp all of the air out from the system, I'll make sure to stick to it.

Oscar.

FYI you can pick up a replacement plastic petcock from oreilly for 4 bucks. Dorman part # 490218.

Thanks scubacat, it's good to know there are replacements available, just in case.

I'll be doing this next weekend, have no time at the moment; the main reason I'm doing it is because I get some pinging only when under load on a hot day; lately it has been cloudy and chilling and didn't notice any pinging at all. It really makes me think that cleaning the cooling system and using the proper amount of 50/50 mix should get rid of this problem.

I was wondering if you guys think I should replace the upper radiator hose, I remember reading that in some cars these came in newer/better materials which shouldn't degrade with time (sillicon hoses I think).

Thanks in advance,

Oscar.

Oscar,
have 2000 Winnie also. Had an accident in 2006 and replaced the Rad at that time. I think it is due for a Rad flush now. It will be real helpful if you can document your actual experience here so people like me can benefit.

Some years ago, when we rebuilt the engine we filled it with straight water, I know it's not good, but temperatures over here are not as extreme as you guys up north.

If you use water as I do (during summer) it is recommended to use distilled or demineralized water. Costs about $2 or $3 a gallon at a pharmacy which is a lot cheaper than auto parts stores sell it (usually as battery electrolyte additive). Costs more than regular water but a lot less than antifreeze. AFAIK antifreeze is mostly water anyway, mixed with ethylene glycol or something similar.

Hi veerg,

I'll make sure to document it while doing it, when I get the time; unfortunately I got some problems that need to be worked out first so, honestly, I don't know if I'll be able to do it next weekend.

Don't worry I'll be glad to take photos and upload them for everyone ;)

Thanks windstartled, yeah I know about distilled water; I'll get some and use it after flushing with tap water; then I'll use the concentrated coolant to bring it to the proper 50/50 mixture.

Oscar.

I just did my flush and fill on my 2000 about 3 weeks ago. I will give you a quick rundown on what I did.

Warm but not hot engine, opened pitcock at base of radiator and loosened reservoir cap to allow existing fluid to drain. It's real messy, fluid travels about 3 foot laterally along the lower radiator bracket. you need several or a long plastic catch bucket.

Once fluid stopped draining, hand tightened pitcock to seal. I added distilled water (Wal Mart, about 80 cents per gallon) and Prestone Super Flush chemical mix. until full.

Drove several miles until temp gauge got to normal range. Returned to garage and let engine cool to warm after fan cycled once or twice.

Drained out fluid again after cooling. Refilled with distilled water fully two more times since you never get out all the fluid, idea is just to get remaining fluid down to a fairly pure water only mix.

Then i added 2 gallons of 100% Prestone All Makes / All Models antifreeze (there is some debate on whether this should be used in the 2000 Windstar). I topped up the reservoir with distilled water and more Prestone until tester showed about 50-60% antifreeze mix.

I also add an additive called Kool-It by Lubegard. It keeps the chemical pH in balance to avoid corrosion and improves the efficiency of the cooling. Been using it for 7+ years and never had a radiator related repair or even changed a thermostat or hose.

I think I started with 10 gallons of distilled water, 3 gallons of anti-freeze (full strength), the Super Flush and the Kool-It). Capacity on the 2000 with rear heater is 5.3 gallons, 4.8 gallons w/o rear heater.

After all was over, I had less than 1 gallon distilled water left and about 1/2 gallon of Prestone. Took about 4 hrs. Lots of waiting for hot engine to cool down and avoid scalding my hands. I used a large shop fan to blow on engine to cool it off quicker.

As a side note, I have all these jugs in the garage of the spent fluid. No one seems to recycle old anti-freeze. I just assumed I could take it to WalMart where I bought the Prestone and water as they do recycle my old crankcase oil.

Jiffy Lube takes it. I don't know what they do with it but around here they take it. (That's about all I'd EVER use them for.)

Try a search for "antifreeze" on www.earth911.com (http://www.earth911.com) to find a recycling place.

http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifreeze-coolant/Affordable_Flush-Water_Disposal.php
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hullabaloo,hullabaloo!

Since I almost never intentionally dump and refill my cooling system (just keep it overrich in anti-freeze and anti-rust ((baking soda)) and keep driving) ... I ain't part of the "whatdawedowitholdcoolant" question. If I do have to empty the cooling system, I usually reused the coolant ... passing it thru a cloth filter. But mostly I just recycle coolant and car altogether ... hopefully after 500k miles or so. But I also understand that "once convinced, always convinced!"

I would never recommend using ONLY distilled water ... heck, that's a metal solvent! Guaranteed to corrode!