93 Lesabre-problem

Do not push the pintel into the IAC, it screws in & out with the stepper motor. Initial setting of the pintel should be 1 1/8" from the base. The stepper motor should stay where it was last actively driven by the computer, so what effect it has on driveability depends on what position it is in when the engine stops. If the pintel is moving, (one way or the other) more than likely, it is working. There is not a seperate ground, all four wires going to the IAC, originate @ the ECM/PCM.

Let's try something different. Remove the power brake booster vacuum hose from the intake manifold and plug the fitting. Your lack of idle, sounds like a large vacuum leak.

Got it. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

I plugged up both ends of the brake booster vacuum line, and no change. Starts, then dies with a 'puff'. I did find the middle line (the one that works the cruise) a little loose at that black fitting on the TB and fixed that, then as I followed the line to the firewall I discovered a small vacuum connector that came out of that line that was disconnected. I fixed it, and again, no change. I put the booster cable back on and tried it. The engine began making a somewhat metallic knock sound as it tried to crank, then it stopped cranking at all. Naturally you would think battery went down trying to crank, but just minutes before it was spinning like crazy. This has got me befuddled, but I know it ran like a champ before so there's hope I guess. Thanks again!

Pull the plugs and post pics. With all the no start cranking, the plugs and cylinders may be flooded with gas. I assume you have a good spark on all cylinders?

I hadn't thought of anything like that but it makes sense because I've been starting it like crazy. Yes, they do have good spark, and I'll get a pic up. Thank you!

Here are those pics. Sorry for the bad quality. I know the plugs are just Autolites, but they probably only have 6-8000 miles on them. I also checked the measurement on the spindle, and it's 1 1/8 from the base. When I walked up and tried to start it today, it did what it was doing before, starting, then choking off with a puff. I only tried it twice.

It appears the plugs are bone dry. Are you sure the injectors are firing?

OK If there were gas on them it probably would have evaporated in the time it took me to take two out and walk them back into the house, which is a little ways. I ended up taking out all six, and one of them appeared to be wetter, but it was hard to tell if it was from the oil that poured onto it from the misaligned valve cover gasket. I cleaned the tips on all plugs and put them back in. Started then died again. I tried it a couple times and started getting the metallic-slow crank thing I got before so I stopped.
I have inspected every single vacuum line on this thing and all of them seem to be in order.
A couple questions: First, what would cause the injectors not to fire and how do I find out if they are? At least I know they WERE firing the other day when I drove it down the road, so it is intermittent.
Second, would a bad MAF cause the problems I am having?

Thanks!

If the injectors are firing, you could either here them clicking (if you have good hearing) or feel them clicking while turning the engine over. Of course, a noid light works best.

The MAF could cause the symptoms you describe. Have you tried disconnecting the MAF to see if it will run?

Here's the current situation with the Buick, and I promise I won't bug you all with this car again lol.


When you walk up to the car, every plug connected, (MAF, IAC, and TPS) it will start for just a second and then die. If you disconnect the MAF, same result. If you then reconnect the MAF and disconnect the IAC, the car starts and stays running, at a somewhat higher idle, and it will stay running. If you reconnect the IAC while it is running, it will choke off and die after a second. I have gotten the car to run doing this before, so of course I was thinking it was the IAC anyway. I got another from a donor car, cleaned it very carefully and put it on. Same thing.
Do I need to just buy a brand new IAC or what? I have checked and re-checked every single solitary vacuum line in that engine compartment and the are all new and tight. I don't hear any vacuum leaks when it runs, and when it is running it's smooth as can be, though I am noticing that the engine heats up very much more quickly than it did before. I think it needs a new thermostat, which of course I forogt to get and just put the old one on. It is still smoking a little off the exhaust manifold in front, but you can see and smell that it's oil and not anti-freeze, Thank God. I just still don't have the gasket right I guess. Thnaks for the help and have a good day