Power steering pump, Lower manifol gasket, Missing

Hi
I have Windstar 2000.
1. I noticed a lot of red oil under the right side front wheel, low oil level in Power steering reservoir. There was a leak at the junction of high pressure line and pump, replaced the hose and leak stopped, but recurred after 2 weeks. Now leak is through the small hole behind the front left stud of the power steering pump (power steering pump vent). Anybody knows the solution. Will I have to replace the pump or is any repair kit available and if repaired is it suitable?
2. I loose about a quart of engine oil after every 600 miles there is no smoke but I see oil soiled just below the both sides of the lower intake manifold and trickling down. there is no loss of coolant. Will changing the lower manifold gasket reduce the oil losses. What are the signs of the leaking lower manifold gasket?
3. I replaced motorcraft spark plugs, Throttle position sensor, IAC, fuel pump, PCM relay and Fuel pump relay but still I have some missing during acceleration, if RPM are kept 2000 no missing above and below 2000 RPM. Also after about 150-200 miles engine stalls. I stop, off the ignition and then restart with no problem. But, the cycle repeats after 5- 10 miles. If I stop for an hour it runs again for 100- 150 miles. In city no problem even continuous driving for 6 hours. There are no CEL and impending codes. Fuel pressure at idling is 29 PSI and 35 PSI if pressure regulator hose is disconnected. See link: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1067905
Anybody kind enough!
Jawaid

I would replace the power steering pump.
The fluid to use is ATF....Mobil 1 ATF is a good choice.

It is possible that the oil leak is from the valve cover gaskets.
Also verify that the PCV valve and hose are in good working order.
After all these years of exposure, it is not uncommon for the PCV hose to get soft and clollapse or crack.

For the missing, I would replace the Coil pack.
They are high failure on the newer Windstars.
The coil pack is a block that contains 3 coils.
It is also possible that the fuel pump is becoming intermittent (suggested by the shut down and restart to solve).
The fuel pump relay inside the relay box in the engine compartment is a common fail item, and is cheaper & easier than the fuel pump, so I would try that first.

Thank you Wiswind for answering. I am sorry to mention that PCV hose is new one. I have already replaced the Fuel pump Relay. But is this pressure OK. Cover gasket are almost dry. Please can u kindly tell where is PCV Valve. The Dealer gives me the vale as small pieces of T shaped or L shaped metallic or plastic pipes. I do not how to assemble it
AzharJwaid

You've been given good advise from wiswind but I would like to add the possibility of bad isolator bolts causing the seepage under the intake manifold.

Have the isolator bolts been replaced with new green ones?

Oscar.

Thanks Oscar, here Wiswind is very kind and thanks for your advice, I had it done once. These bolts were like silver with silver washers. And these were tight enough. but I am afraid can it be loose rings, pistons Or valve sleeves. Or may be intake seals parts no 9A425 and 9A424.
Azhar Jawaid

You're welcome Azhar!

I just realized it's you; I'm glad you are still around. Did you ever fix the problem with the air coming out from the defrost openings?.

I'm not sure if the 9A424/5 gaskets will fix your problem. From that picture it seems you have the 3.0 engine. Is that correct?.

The isolator bolts I talked about are a common problem ONLY with the 3.8 engine and you can see a picture of them here:

CLICK HERE (http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS_M1Ca4-DrcBegsfkYHWqBf-3HHXUeSZ9H-6KKGMRhOurdSlMf)

If you have the 3.8 engine and those bolts have not been replaced, it would be a good idea to do so. I had some oil leaking between the (plastic) upper manifold and the (aluminum) lower manifold just above the valve covers and never had a check engine light on (no p0171 or p0174 codes).

In case you need to replace such bolts, you can see the entire procedure with picures here:

CLICK HERE (http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html)

As far as I know, worn piston rings, pistons or valve components would cause BLUE SMOKE coming out from the exhaust pipe because of oil being burned. You mention there is no smoke, so I wouldn't worry about problems in the cylinders.

Oscar.

THANKS TO THE ORIGINAL OWNERS OF THE PICTURES AND LINKS.

Dear Olopezm! extremely nice feelings on your comments. You have ammazing memory. Actually I fixed the AC vent issue about six months back. The pictures posted by you were extremely helpful.
I made some modification also. You were right that basic cause was vacuum loss. The only problem was to detect and locate the leak. I was busy so I could not share. But in some post I will share with my all friends. I have some drawings to explain but I will post them this site.
My Windstar is 3.8l Year 2000. This is my first experience of American car though very strong, safe and comfortable, yet highly unreliable and undependable. Rubber seals gaskets electrical and plastic parts neither reliable nor durable. Previously I had Toyota or Charade; both Japanese.
I had fuel injector cleaned about 6 month back and EGR ports were cleaned and the workshop man applied O2 sensor safe silicon between the plastic and aluminum manifolds according to him bolts and seals were OK.
I mentioned that it my car stalls after 200 Miles. Only once the 0171,0174 code came when my car stopped. The workman told me to clean injectors codes disappeared but engine stalling remained there.
During this weekend I will replace fuel pump assembly again to see if engine stalling is still there or not.
Again thank you for the concern
Azhar Jawaid

Hello Azhar,

Dear Olopezm! extremely nice feelings on your comments. You have ammazing memory. Actually I fixed the AC vent issue about six months back. The pictures posted by you were extremely helpful.
I made some modification also. You were right that basic cause was vacuum loss. The only problem was to detect and locate the leak. I was busy so I could not share. But in some post I will share with my all friends. I have some drawings to explain but I will post them this site.


I look forward to read your solution. I'm pretty sure it will help other people in the forum my friend!.


My Windstar is 3.8l Year 2000. This is my first experience of American car though very strong, safe and comfortable, yet highly unreliable and undependable. Rubber seals gaskets electrical and plastic parts neither reliable nor durable. Previously I had Toyota or Charade; both Japanese.


I agree with you, these windstar are great vehicles but kind of unreliable when it comes to transmission or upper engine components. My other cars are american too and I must says both have been very reliable, the Lincoln (also a Ford) has had minor problems which have been quite easy to fix and my Pontiac has had some easy and cheap fixes and only one expensive which was caused because of a problem (from the factory) with bad intake gaskets. Yet, I wouldn't sell any of both; the windstar maybe... Lately, I've been falling back in love with it :naughty: .


I had fuel injector cleaned about 6 month back and EGR ports were cleaned and the workshop man applied O2 sensor safe silicon between the plastic and aluminum manifolds according to him bolts and seals were OK.
I mentioned that it my car stalls after 200 Miles. Only once the 0171,0174 code came when my car stopped. The workman told me to clean injectors codes disappeared but engine stalling remained there.


It would be good to know where did your mechanic exactly used the sealant. This engine has 14 points to seal between the plastic and aluminum parts (8 isolator bolts and 6 intake port seals). The isolator bolts can be seen in picture #13 and the port seals location in picture #14 of the second link I posted before. The rubber around the isolator bolts starts to degrade because of the oil being sucked into the plastic intake; when this happens a vacuum leak appears and the p0171/174 codes are (sometimes) triggered; it depends on how bad the leak is, as I said before the codes never appeared on mine and I only noticed the leak after reading the STFT and LTFT readings with a live data capable scanner.


During this weekend I will replace fuel pump assembly again to see if engine stalling is still there or not.
Again thank you for the concern
Azhar Jawaid

BEFORE you replace the fuel pump I would ask the mechanic to take a look at the LTFT and STFT readings with a capable scanner.

If the readings are higher than +10 that would surely indicate a vacuum leak, a dead injector or a weak fuel pump and the computer is trying to compensate by adding more fuel to the mixture.

Also make sure to use a Fuel Gauge Pressure Tester to rule out a bad fuel pump, nobody wants to end up replacing a properly working component, specially a fuel pump knowing how tedious is to replace one.

Fuel pressure spec:
key on engine off (KOEO): 35-45psi
key on engine running (KOER) at idle: 28-35 psi
engine off after 5 minutes: 30-40psi

If the readings are lower than -10 it indicates you have an excess of fuel entering the cylinders and the computer is taking fuel from the mixture. That could indicate a leaking injector, a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR).

I hope this helps.

Oscar.

On 1999 and newer 3.8L Windstars, the PCV valve is in the front valve cover.
I had a 1996 Windstar, which had the PCV valve in the rear valve cover...so my pictures will be of no help regarding the PCV valve.


The fuel pump issue that I have read about is a intermittent failure.......it is fine and then suddenly it stops.
This makes diagnosis difficult since everything will be perfect until the failure happens.
Also, there is no measurement of the fuel flow or pressure on the Windstar, so the computer, aka PCM, will not give you a code that tells you that there is no fuel flow or pressure, since the computer is not directly monitoring those values.

Dear Friends,
I have changed the fuel pump and filter about 2 months back. I drove 2400 KM with the environmental temperature being 10-25˚C, thanks without stalling, however, while accelerating there were episodes of 5 to 10 second duration of jerking with slow change in RPM and no acceleration. It improved spontaneously. Sometime, during constant speed also, there was sudden jerking and reduction of speed by 10 to 20 KM, and then after a few seconds spontaneously regained the speed. However, there is no check engine light. It seems as if there was no timing advance during acceleration, if we compare to olden times’ system of ignition with distributer.
You know I already, have changed TPS, IAC, and Plugs cleaned injectors. In many net posts, the defective CKS (crank shaft position), synchronizer fuel and pump cause the same symptoms. You have suggested, to change the coil pack. Given all this, now from where should I start, CKS, synchronizer or coil pack?
2. A strange phenomenon occurred concerning engine oil consumption. The only thing I remember, is that I used motorcraft injector cleaner for 400 KM. Now there is no loss of oil.
3. I also changed the steering oil pump and the high-pressure hose as these were leaking too much; tensioner and idler pulley as these were noisy.

I would get a new coil pack instead of the new sensor. As far as I know a failing sensor would make the engine to stop running rather than misfiring or hesitating.

Remove it and TAKE A LOOK at the back of it, where the epoxy is. This is where the body starts to crack and causes the spark to arc to ground, causing the missing.

Oscar.

Dear All Members,
Thanks for all suggetions. Just to refresh, till now I have changed IAC, TPS, PCV spark plugs (Original ford) wires, Steerirng pump, original fuel pump, lower intake manifold gaskets; during this re-done of 0171 0174. The trasmission rechecked no defect, ATF (Mercon V) level and quality OK. Gear change and ratio normal, no code, checked with code reader, no code no pending code defect no CEL. Checked EGR VALVE as yiur advice. Cleaned the TRS harness VSS Pressed OD while jerking, it continued. Jerks have become frequent (during last 2 years), and now appear most of the time while reaccelerating the RPM reach are 1000 to 1500 and speed is 40 miles/h, or 50 to 60 miles/ h. Some time during jerks the RPM needle stuck at 1000 or 1500 despite the increase gas then suddenly RPM increase and jerk disappear, only to appear againe while reaccalerating RPM are 1000 to 1500. some time at constnt speed of 120 sudden Jerks and fall in speed and RPM. Now planning to change synchronizer, cpk, coil pack one by one in the order of inexpensiveness. Any suggestion.

You haven't mentioned the underbody fuel filter. Has it been replaced recently?

Hi Azharj,

I'm thinking the jerking could be related to a bad Torque Converter Clutch solenoid (TCC) but you mention that the transmission has been diagnosed and showed no problems. Also, you say that the OD button didn't help while jerking.

That leaves with an air-fuel mixture or ignition problem causing the engine to not provide enough torque to the transmission. I don't think the synchronizer or ckp could cause the problems so I would go ahead with replacing the coil pack.

I think I remember you said to have checked for vacuum leaks and there were none, right?

Oscar.

Dear Olopezm
Thanks I have made up my mind to replace coil pack. But my mechanic disconnected all O2 sensors, there is some change. Most of the time there are no jerk, though not fully curing. Any explanation? or Will it harm? I am now convinced that the problem is of ignition. A new change which I am observing is that it started in first click but now I have to crank twice. In a few days I will change coil pack and let u know. thanks
AzharJ

Hi Azharj,

disconnecting the O2 sensors will cause the PCM to ignore some input sensors and use default values instead to control the engine; that's why your windstar seems to run better with them disconnected. It shouldn't harm the engine (mostly the catalytic converters) as long as you don't leave it running like that forever. If you connect a live data capable scanner you will see the PCM is running in OPEN LOOP mode (only for a few seconds/minutes after starting the engine) instead of CLOSED LOOP (normal operation with a warm engine) when a sensor has been disconnected or has failed.

With the live data scanner, take a look at the LTFT and STFT values. These should be within -10 -- +10 and anything outside from that range would indicate either a rich or lean fuel mixture which can affect engine performance. Running lean can indicate fuel delivery problems or vacuum leaks; running rich would indicate ignition problems or leaky injectors as well as a clogged air intake.

You can also remove one of the spark plug wires, insert a suitable sized screwdriver in the rubber boot and ground it against the engine block. You should see a BRIGHT BLUE colored spark; if it's orange or yellow, it confirms and ignition problem with either the spark plug wires or the coil pack.

I hope this information helps,

Oscar.

Thanks Olopezm, Wisiwind and all other friends for your excellent suggestions. Olopezm you summarized the solutions incredibly. It should have been the first answer to my post.

Anyways, I changed the coil pack and I drove 2500km in three days. My wini ran as good as new. There was no missing, no jerk but I feel there is a new problem.
1. Sometimes I have to crank twice to start the car regardless of the engine or the external temperature.
2. Sometimes when accelerating hard there is delayed shift from 2nd to 3rd gear and jerk with loud sound.
What It could be? Nothing comes in codes and practically no way to check the sensors and electrial system.
it is to mention that I have already new motorcraft charger and battery.
Thanks azharj

I'll ask again: "Has the underbody fuel filter been changed?"

If you read my first post you'll know that I have changed everything except MAF sensor, TRS and VSS, Crank sensor and Cam sensor...I changed all filters and pumps...

...I changed all filters and pumps...

Yeah, sorry I missed that. So you have already changed the in-tank fuel pump .... since you have changed "all...pumps".

(Why did you change the transmission pump? ... and the engine oil pump?)

Dear 12Ounce
I am sorry. All pumps I meant fuel pump and powersteering pump
I changed Ingnition coil. Since I have changed the ignition coil, I have traveled about 6000 KM. (2500 KM continuous in one sitting and 2500 in an othrer sitting)without any truoble as good as new I wished I had changed it before, and the problem of slight hard start is also over apontaneously. I am thankful to Wisiwind, Olopezm, 12Ounce and Tempfixitis especially and all other member in general for the valuable suggestions
Azharj

I hate to be persistent, but I'm not sure my question has been answered:

There is an underbody in-line fuel filter. Its mounted beneath the floorpan, beneath the driver's seat. Has this filter been changed recently ... "yes" or "no". How recently (in miles)?

Dear Olopezm
Yes changed 7000 kM now, same time as the fuel pump assembly was changed.
Azharj