Transmission Fluid Change Using a Fluid Extractor
MrCreosote
01-13-2012, 04:48 PM
One of my Xmas presents to myself was the uber 7201 MityVac Fluid Extractor / Dispenser.
I had once done the run engine and pump fluid out the disconnected top radiator trans fluid hose while filling trans and it is just not a lot of fun - especially if you cannot remove the fluid in the transmission itself to start with.
The fluid extractor should help in that matter.
So there are a few ways to do this perhaps.
First, remove as much as possible from the trans with the extractor and refill.
Then there is the issue of should I take the time to pump fluid out the disconnected top hose?
I suppose it is a good idea no matter if the torque converter comes either before the trans or after since the fluid path is probably in this direction:
Pan,
Pump
Either trans or converter
Exit to the cooler.
Either way, clean fluid in the pan will be "flushing" through the converter and trans and that can only be a good thing.
So I figure maybe 4 quarts of flush. (Actually, if overflled say 1 quart, could probably let it pump until you get the cavitation bubbles and call it quits then.)
Of course, the Lazy Man method would be to suck out the trans refill and call it quits and then plan on doing this every 10k miles. Of course maybe do it twice the first time.
Then there is the decision of using a full synthetic ATF other than Mercon V. I'll start a new thread for that one.
Open to suggestions/comments,
Thanks
Tom
I had once done the run engine and pump fluid out the disconnected top radiator trans fluid hose while filling trans and it is just not a lot of fun - especially if you cannot remove the fluid in the transmission itself to start with.
The fluid extractor should help in that matter.
So there are a few ways to do this perhaps.
First, remove as much as possible from the trans with the extractor and refill.
Then there is the issue of should I take the time to pump fluid out the disconnected top hose?
I suppose it is a good idea no matter if the torque converter comes either before the trans or after since the fluid path is probably in this direction:
Pan,
Pump
Either trans or converter
Exit to the cooler.
Either way, clean fluid in the pan will be "flushing" through the converter and trans and that can only be a good thing.
So I figure maybe 4 quarts of flush. (Actually, if overflled say 1 quart, could probably let it pump until you get the cavitation bubbles and call it quits then.)
Of course, the Lazy Man method would be to suck out the trans refill and call it quits and then plan on doing this every 10k miles. Of course maybe do it twice the first time.
Then there is the decision of using a full synthetic ATF other than Mercon V. I'll start a new thread for that one.
Open to suggestions/comments,
Thanks
Tom
wiswind
01-14-2012, 07:41 PM
It sounds like what you mention will work.....I dreaded the pan removal more than the cooler line drain.
One thing that you might want to verify.
The Radiator Fan "Low Speed" dropping resistor is a high failure item on the Windstar.
You might want to check to see if it is still good on yours.
The reason I mention it is this has a major impact on transmission fluid temperatures in stop and go traffic.
When you have the A/C on (and it is above 40 degrees F) the radiator fans should be on....and STAY on....when your speed is below something like 25mph.
If they are not constantly running with the A/C on when you are stopped, the first thing to check would be that reisistor.
It is a CERAMIC rectangle that is mounted on top of the metal front bumper, kind of below the passenger side headllight.
I have pictures posted that show this part.
When the Low speed dropping resistor is broken, you have no low speed radiator fan, just high speed radiator fan.
Another note, I added a auxillary transmission fluid cooler to my Windstar.
Pictures of that are also posted, as well as pictures that show the Magnefine Transmission fluid filter that I added to the cooler return line (into the transmission).
One thing that you might want to verify.
The Radiator Fan "Low Speed" dropping resistor is a high failure item on the Windstar.
You might want to check to see if it is still good on yours.
The reason I mention it is this has a major impact on transmission fluid temperatures in stop and go traffic.
When you have the A/C on (and it is above 40 degrees F) the radiator fans should be on....and STAY on....when your speed is below something like 25mph.
If they are not constantly running with the A/C on when you are stopped, the first thing to check would be that reisistor.
It is a CERAMIC rectangle that is mounted on top of the metal front bumper, kind of below the passenger side headllight.
I have pictures posted that show this part.
When the Low speed dropping resistor is broken, you have no low speed radiator fan, just high speed radiator fan.
Another note, I added a auxillary transmission fluid cooler to my Windstar.
Pictures of that are also posted, as well as pictures that show the Magnefine Transmission fluid filter that I added to the cooler return line (into the transmission).
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