Inherited 2003 Windstar: Some Issues
DontCome2MyHouse
11-14-2011, 08:40 PM
My father passed away this past summer and my mom wanted to give me his van (for free) since I have one kid and one on the way.
So far I have the following information on the van, which is a 2003 Windstar LX 3.8L V6:
1. All recalls have been performed including rear axle fix
2. New shocks, struts, and tires were put on 18,000 miles ago
3. the van has 83K miles on it
4. Brand new AC compressor and battery
5. Last week I installed new Motorcraft Platnium Plugs and new wires.
6. Installed new fuel filter and cabin filter for the hell of it. Engine air filter is clean.
7. No Check Engine light on...yet.
The ABS and Brake light both come on at the same time randomly all the time. After much research I know it is a bad ABS ECM and I'm going to buy a rebuilt one with a warranty.
When I replaced the plugs I was kinda confused to find that the manual said the plug gap is .054-.056, while ALL plugs bought at auto parts stores call for .044, not just Motorcraft brand. I went with .044 and so far I'm not having any issues. Any cause for concern here?
I must admit after reading all these recalls and problems everyone is having I'm sorta worried about having my family in this van, even with the 5-star safety rating. Am I worrying too much?
Even though I don't currently have a Check Engine light on, should I do any preventative maintenance or should I follow the "if it's not broke, don't fix it" rule. I was thinking of removing the plenum and cleaning the ERG ports and replace gaskets.
So far I have the following information on the van, which is a 2003 Windstar LX 3.8L V6:
1. All recalls have been performed including rear axle fix
2. New shocks, struts, and tires were put on 18,000 miles ago
3. the van has 83K miles on it
4. Brand new AC compressor and battery
5. Last week I installed new Motorcraft Platnium Plugs and new wires.
6. Installed new fuel filter and cabin filter for the hell of it. Engine air filter is clean.
7. No Check Engine light on...yet.
The ABS and Brake light both come on at the same time randomly all the time. After much research I know it is a bad ABS ECM and I'm going to buy a rebuilt one with a warranty.
When I replaced the plugs I was kinda confused to find that the manual said the plug gap is .054-.056, while ALL plugs bought at auto parts stores call for .044, not just Motorcraft brand. I went with .044 and so far I'm not having any issues. Any cause for concern here?
I must admit after reading all these recalls and problems everyone is having I'm sorta worried about having my family in this van, even with the 5-star safety rating. Am I worrying too much?
Even though I don't currently have a Check Engine light on, should I do any preventative maintenance or should I follow the "if it's not broke, don't fix it" rule. I was thinking of removing the plenum and cleaning the ERG ports and replace gaskets.
olopezm
11-14-2011, 10:12 PM
Hi!
First of all I'm sorry for your loss, may your father rest in peace.
The ABS and brake light could be low fluid level, even slightly low can cause the lights to come on.
EDIT: You can also measure resistance at each wheel speed sensor and should see 1710-2200 ohms.
I don't know if the spark plug gap could cause you any problems, you could experience some pre-ignition under some conditions I guess which at the same time could overheat the engine; I always use mine gapped at .054. The gap for the 3.0 engine is 0.42-0.46 and for the 3.8 is 0.52-0.56.
As long as the rear axle and front subframe recalls have been performed and you keep regular maintenance (like any other vehicle) I don't think you have anything to worry about ;).
Some common problems with these minivas are:
- Coil pack cracked at the back causing rough running and/or misfiring.
- Transmission Range Switch which sits on top of the transmission under the air filter; when it goes bad the transmission will start hunting for gears, shift funny or harsh. Another symptom are the reverse light coming on at incorrect gears or the van starting at gears other than P or N.
- The VSS is another common problem, probably because of it's location being too close to the exhaust. Most people will tell you to remove the cat converter to access it but I found a way to replace it from the top of the engine, it only takes some time and has to be done by hand. The symptom of a failing VSS is a flashing O/D light and the van will not go past 2nd gear.
If the isolator bolt TSB (for 3.8 engines only) was performed, I think the EGR ports should be fine but if you're feeling like it, you might want to take a look at them. The gaskets are reusable and all bolts fastening plastic parts should only be tightened to 9 lb ft (84 lb in).
Oscar.
First of all I'm sorry for your loss, may your father rest in peace.
The ABS and brake light could be low fluid level, even slightly low can cause the lights to come on.
EDIT: You can also measure resistance at each wheel speed sensor and should see 1710-2200 ohms.
I don't know if the spark plug gap could cause you any problems, you could experience some pre-ignition under some conditions I guess which at the same time could overheat the engine; I always use mine gapped at .054. The gap for the 3.0 engine is 0.42-0.46 and for the 3.8 is 0.52-0.56.
As long as the rear axle and front subframe recalls have been performed and you keep regular maintenance (like any other vehicle) I don't think you have anything to worry about ;).
Some common problems with these minivas are:
- Coil pack cracked at the back causing rough running and/or misfiring.
- Transmission Range Switch which sits on top of the transmission under the air filter; when it goes bad the transmission will start hunting for gears, shift funny or harsh. Another symptom are the reverse light coming on at incorrect gears or the van starting at gears other than P or N.
- The VSS is another common problem, probably because of it's location being too close to the exhaust. Most people will tell you to remove the cat converter to access it but I found a way to replace it from the top of the engine, it only takes some time and has to be done by hand. The symptom of a failing VSS is a flashing O/D light and the van will not go past 2nd gear.
If the isolator bolt TSB (for 3.8 engines only) was performed, I think the EGR ports should be fine but if you're feeling like it, you might want to take a look at them. The gaskets are reusable and all bolts fastening plastic parts should only be tightened to 9 lb ft (84 lb in).
Oscar.
DontCome2MyHouse
11-16-2011, 01:20 PM
Hi!
First of all I'm sorry for your loss, may your father rest in peace.
The ABS and brake light could be low fluid level, even slightly low can cause the lights to come on.
EDIT: You can also measure resistance at each wheel speed sensor and should see 1710-2200 ohms.
I don't know if the spark plug gap could cause you any problems, you could experience some pre-ignition under some conditions I guess which at the same time could overheat the engine; I always use mine gapped at .054. The gap for the 3.0 engine is 0.42-0.46 and for the 3.8 is 0.52-0.56.
As long as the rear axle and front subframe recalls have been performed and you keep regular maintenance (like any other vehicle) I don't think you have anything to worry about ;).
Some common problems with these minivas are:
- Coil pack cracked at the back causing rough running and/or misfiring.
- Transmission Range Switch which sits on top of the transmission under the air filter; when it goes bad the transmission will start hunting for gears, shift funny or harsh. Another symptom are the reverse light coming on at incorrect gears or the van starting at gears other than P or N.
- The VSS is another common problem, probably because of it's location being too close to the exhaust. Most people will tell you to remove the cat converter to access it but I found a way to replace it from the top of the engine, it only takes some time and has to be done by hand. The symptom of a failing VSS is a flashing O/D light and the van will not go past 2nd gear.
If the isolator bolt TSB (for 3.8 engines only) was performed, I think the EGR ports should be fine but if you're feeling like it, you might want to take a look at them. The gaskets are reusable and all bolts fastening plastic parts should only be tightened to 9 lb ft (84 lb in).
Oscar.
Thanks for all the great info Oscar. How could I tell if the Isolator Bolt TSB was performed? If it hasn't, will Ford do it for free?
A question regarding fluids...
I do know my oil is good, but the others I'm not so sure when they were changed. All fluid levels are good. Is there a way to tell if I need to bleed my brakes or change my coolant or ATF by color, smell, etc?
First of all I'm sorry for your loss, may your father rest in peace.
The ABS and brake light could be low fluid level, even slightly low can cause the lights to come on.
EDIT: You can also measure resistance at each wheel speed sensor and should see 1710-2200 ohms.
I don't know if the spark plug gap could cause you any problems, you could experience some pre-ignition under some conditions I guess which at the same time could overheat the engine; I always use mine gapped at .054. The gap for the 3.0 engine is 0.42-0.46 and for the 3.8 is 0.52-0.56.
As long as the rear axle and front subframe recalls have been performed and you keep regular maintenance (like any other vehicle) I don't think you have anything to worry about ;).
Some common problems with these minivas are:
- Coil pack cracked at the back causing rough running and/or misfiring.
- Transmission Range Switch which sits on top of the transmission under the air filter; when it goes bad the transmission will start hunting for gears, shift funny or harsh. Another symptom are the reverse light coming on at incorrect gears or the van starting at gears other than P or N.
- The VSS is another common problem, probably because of it's location being too close to the exhaust. Most people will tell you to remove the cat converter to access it but I found a way to replace it from the top of the engine, it only takes some time and has to be done by hand. The symptom of a failing VSS is a flashing O/D light and the van will not go past 2nd gear.
If the isolator bolt TSB (for 3.8 engines only) was performed, I think the EGR ports should be fine but if you're feeling like it, you might want to take a look at them. The gaskets are reusable and all bolts fastening plastic parts should only be tightened to 9 lb ft (84 lb in).
Oscar.
Thanks for all the great info Oscar. How could I tell if the Isolator Bolt TSB was performed? If it hasn't, will Ford do it for free?
A question regarding fluids...
I do know my oil is good, but the others I'm not so sure when they were changed. All fluid levels are good. Is there a way to tell if I need to bleed my brakes or change my coolant or ATF by color, smell, etc?
olopezm
11-16-2011, 05:05 PM
Hi!,
To find out if the isolator bolt fix has been performed you'll need to remove the top case of the upper intake manifold, you can take a look at the process in the following link:
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
it's not hard to do, and since it's a TSB instead of a recall it will not be free of charge. If you have the time and a regular set of tools (along with a torque wrench) you can do it yourself and save lots of money than taking it to the mechanic ;).
About fluids... I would say that if you don't know when they were last changed and can afford it just replace them, that way you'll be sure of the change intervals. If you can't then there are a few ways to know:
Coolant.- Most autoparts stores sell a tool that will help you know the condition of it but you can also take a look at it and should be light green, yellow or orange (never mix different color coolant unless the bottle advises to do so). Any dark (resembling rust) spots would be an indicator that it hasn't been replaced in a long time and you need to. I don't know what Ford used originally but I use regular (green) coolant at a 3k miles interval.
Transmission fluid.- It should be cherry red. If it looks dark it's old and needs replacement, Mercon V tends to discolorate with time which is still OK as long as it doesn't looks yellow before you start the engine (that would indicate there are clutch material particles floating around). A burnt smell is a warning sign of overheating and you need immediate service to your transmission is it hasn't been damaged already. 30k miles change intervals is advised with Mercon V fluid ONLY.
I want to add that Mercon V fluid smells nasty since new!.
Steering fluid.- Same thing with transmission but this one is very unlikely to smell burnt, however if you feel the steering pulsates/vibrates while you turn the wheels the fluid is old and needs replacement. Make sure when you replace the fluid to clean the screen at the bottom of the reservoir.
Brakes.- You should feel a good response on the brake pedal while braking, if it feels spongy or goes to the bottom you need to check the brakes immediately, there might be some air trapped in the lines, the pads may be worn or you have low fluid. About the brake fluid it should be clear or slightly green; if it's dark it's old and needs replacement too. I would like to add here that since brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) you have to make sure the reservoir cap is properly seated and the fluid is in good condition; failure to do so can result in brake fading due to the moisture boiling. A good change interval would be every 2 years.
Note that these maintenance routines apply to ALL cars and it's not intended for windstars only ;).
Finally, you can read some information regarding transmission fluid color in an old thread I opened some time ago:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1070815
Oscar.
To find out if the isolator bolt fix has been performed you'll need to remove the top case of the upper intake manifold, you can take a look at the process in the following link:
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
it's not hard to do, and since it's a TSB instead of a recall it will not be free of charge. If you have the time and a regular set of tools (along with a torque wrench) you can do it yourself and save lots of money than taking it to the mechanic ;).
About fluids... I would say that if you don't know when they were last changed and can afford it just replace them, that way you'll be sure of the change intervals. If you can't then there are a few ways to know:
Coolant.- Most autoparts stores sell a tool that will help you know the condition of it but you can also take a look at it and should be light green, yellow or orange (never mix different color coolant unless the bottle advises to do so). Any dark (resembling rust) spots would be an indicator that it hasn't been replaced in a long time and you need to. I don't know what Ford used originally but I use regular (green) coolant at a 3k miles interval.
Transmission fluid.- It should be cherry red. If it looks dark it's old and needs replacement, Mercon V tends to discolorate with time which is still OK as long as it doesn't looks yellow before you start the engine (that would indicate there are clutch material particles floating around). A burnt smell is a warning sign of overheating and you need immediate service to your transmission is it hasn't been damaged already. 30k miles change intervals is advised with Mercon V fluid ONLY.
I want to add that Mercon V fluid smells nasty since new!.
Steering fluid.- Same thing with transmission but this one is very unlikely to smell burnt, however if you feel the steering pulsates/vibrates while you turn the wheels the fluid is old and needs replacement. Make sure when you replace the fluid to clean the screen at the bottom of the reservoir.
Brakes.- You should feel a good response on the brake pedal while braking, if it feels spongy or goes to the bottom you need to check the brakes immediately, there might be some air trapped in the lines, the pads may be worn or you have low fluid. About the brake fluid it should be clear or slightly green; if it's dark it's old and needs replacement too. I would like to add here that since brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) you have to make sure the reservoir cap is properly seated and the fluid is in good condition; failure to do so can result in brake fading due to the moisture boiling. A good change interval would be every 2 years.
Note that these maintenance routines apply to ALL cars and it's not intended for windstars only ;).
Finally, you can read some information regarding transmission fluid color in an old thread I opened some time ago:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1070815
Oscar.
DontCome2MyHouse
11-16-2011, 07:07 PM
Hi!,
To find out if the isolator bolt fix has been performed you'll need to remove the top case of the upper intake manifold, you can take a look at the process in the following link:
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
it's not hard to do, and since it's a TSB instead of a recall it will not be free of charge. If you have the time and a regular set of tools (along with a torque wrench) you can do it yourself and save lots of money than taking it to the mechanic ;).
About fluids... I would say that if you don't know when they were last changed and can afford it just replace them, that way you'll be sure of the change intervals. If you can't then there are a few ways to know:
Coolant.- Most autoparts stores sell a tool that will help you know the condition of it but you can also take a look at it and should be light green, yellow or orange (never mix different color coolant unless the bottle advises to do so). Any dark (resembling rust) spots would be an indicator that it hasn't been replaced in a long time and you need to. I don't know what Ford used originally but I use regular (green) coolant at a 3k miles interval.
Transmission fluid.- It should be cherry red. If it looks dark it's old and needs replacement, Mercon V tends to discolorate with time which is still OK as long as it doesn't looks yellow before you start the engine (that would indicate there are clutch material particles floating around). A burnt smell is a warning sign of overheating and you need immediate service to your transmission is it hasn't been damaged already. 30k miles change intervals is advised with Mercon V fluid ONLY.
I want to add that Mercon V fluid smells nasty since new!.
Steering fluid.- Same thing with transmission but this one is very unlikely to smell burnt, however if you feel the steering pulsates/vibrates while you turn the wheels the fluid is old and needs replacement. Make sure when you replace the fluid to clean the screen at the bottom of the reservoir.
Brakes.- You should feel a good response on the brake pedal while braking, if it feels spongy or goes to the bottom you need to check the brakes immediately, there might be some air trapped in the lines, the pads may be worn or you have low fluid. About the brake fluid it should be clear or slightly green; if it's dark it's old and needs replacement too. I would like to add here that since brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) you have to make sure the reservoir cap is properly seated and the fluid is in good condition; failure to do so can result in brake fading due to the moisture boiling. A good change interval would be every 2 years.
Note that these maintenance routines apply to ALL cars and it's not intended for windstars only ;).
Finally, you can read some information regarding transmission fluid color in an old thread I opened some time ago:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1070815
Oscar.
Thanks again!
I checked out that link for the Isolator Bolt fix and I looked through the PCV hole and found that I do NOT have the 1/8" diameter hole at the 5 o'clock position under the valve cover...which is a GOOD thing. Ford must have changed the design (no hole) towards the end when my 2003 was manufactured:
"After the PVC valve has been removed. Look down inside the hole at the five o'clock position. You will likely need to use a flashlight. You can just barely see the edge of the hole peeking out in this picture. If there is a 1/8" hole in there like the one shown in this "staged" photo. You should replace the valve cover. This hole is part of the culprit that lead to needing this repair. Please note that that new valve cover does not have the hole"
However....it looks like the Isolator Bolt are the main issue here more than anything else.
BTW...I do know that my coolant is orange in color. You change your coolant every 3K miles? Peak and Prestone both make coolant that is good for 150K or 5 years.
To find out if the isolator bolt fix has been performed you'll need to remove the top case of the upper intake manifold, you can take a look at the process in the following link:
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
it's not hard to do, and since it's a TSB instead of a recall it will not be free of charge. If you have the time and a regular set of tools (along with a torque wrench) you can do it yourself and save lots of money than taking it to the mechanic ;).
About fluids... I would say that if you don't know when they were last changed and can afford it just replace them, that way you'll be sure of the change intervals. If you can't then there are a few ways to know:
Coolant.- Most autoparts stores sell a tool that will help you know the condition of it but you can also take a look at it and should be light green, yellow or orange (never mix different color coolant unless the bottle advises to do so). Any dark (resembling rust) spots would be an indicator that it hasn't been replaced in a long time and you need to. I don't know what Ford used originally but I use regular (green) coolant at a 3k miles interval.
Transmission fluid.- It should be cherry red. If it looks dark it's old and needs replacement, Mercon V tends to discolorate with time which is still OK as long as it doesn't looks yellow before you start the engine (that would indicate there are clutch material particles floating around). A burnt smell is a warning sign of overheating and you need immediate service to your transmission is it hasn't been damaged already. 30k miles change intervals is advised with Mercon V fluid ONLY.
I want to add that Mercon V fluid smells nasty since new!.
Steering fluid.- Same thing with transmission but this one is very unlikely to smell burnt, however if you feel the steering pulsates/vibrates while you turn the wheels the fluid is old and needs replacement. Make sure when you replace the fluid to clean the screen at the bottom of the reservoir.
Brakes.- You should feel a good response on the brake pedal while braking, if it feels spongy or goes to the bottom you need to check the brakes immediately, there might be some air trapped in the lines, the pads may be worn or you have low fluid. About the brake fluid it should be clear or slightly green; if it's dark it's old and needs replacement too. I would like to add here that since brake fluid is hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture from the air) you have to make sure the reservoir cap is properly seated and the fluid is in good condition; failure to do so can result in brake fading due to the moisture boiling. A good change interval would be every 2 years.
Note that these maintenance routines apply to ALL cars and it's not intended for windstars only ;).
Finally, you can read some information regarding transmission fluid color in an old thread I opened some time ago:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1070815
Oscar.
Thanks again!
I checked out that link for the Isolator Bolt fix and I looked through the PCV hole and found that I do NOT have the 1/8" diameter hole at the 5 o'clock position under the valve cover...which is a GOOD thing. Ford must have changed the design (no hole) towards the end when my 2003 was manufactured:
"After the PVC valve has been removed. Look down inside the hole at the five o'clock position. You will likely need to use a flashlight. You can just barely see the edge of the hole peeking out in this picture. If there is a 1/8" hole in there like the one shown in this "staged" photo. You should replace the valve cover. This hole is part of the culprit that lead to needing this repair. Please note that that new valve cover does not have the hole"
However....it looks like the Isolator Bolt are the main issue here more than anything else.
BTW...I do know that my coolant is orange in color. You change your coolant every 3K miles? Peak and Prestone both make coolant that is good for 150K or 5 years.
olopezm
11-16-2011, 07:25 PM
Thanks again!
I checked out that link for the Isolator Bolt fix and I looked through the PCV hole and found that I do NOT have the 1/8" diameter hole at the 5 o'clock position under the valve cover...which is a GOOD thing. Ford must have changed the design (no hole) towards the end when my 2003 was manufactured:
"After the PVC valve has been removed. Look down inside the hole at the five o'clock position. You will likely need to use a flashlight. You can just barely see the edge of the hole peeking out in this picture. If there is a 1/8" hole in there like the one shown in this "staged" photo. You should replace the valve cover. This hole is part of the culprit that lead to needing this repair. Please note that that new valve cover does not have the hole"
However....it looks like the Isolator Bolt are the main issue here more than anything else.
BTW...I do know that my coolant is orange in color. You change your coolant every 3K miles? Peak and Prestone both make coolant that is good for 150K or 5 years.
Yeah, I forgot to mention that, Ford updated the valve cover by 2003 so yours already came with the new design from factory. You still have to find out about the isolator bolts. If you find yourself with a CEL on and P0171/P0174 DTC's then you likely need them. One more hint would be oil seeping between the upper (plastic) and lower (aluminum) manifolds.
Sorry, I had a brain freeze. I don't replace it every 3k miles but around every 2 years, however I don't drive my cars that much, at least not like you guys do (I drive around 3k-4k miles a year at much, normally less as I shift between all 3 cars).
I've read that those extended interval coolants don't really last as advertised and the main concern with those is a brown/dark goop in the system which tends to create bigger problems :headshake, I can't be sure since I've never used it. Specially with orange coolants you should NEVER mix it with green coolant. It will breakdown and corrode the engine.
Oscar.
I checked out that link for the Isolator Bolt fix and I looked through the PCV hole and found that I do NOT have the 1/8" diameter hole at the 5 o'clock position under the valve cover...which is a GOOD thing. Ford must have changed the design (no hole) towards the end when my 2003 was manufactured:
"After the PVC valve has been removed. Look down inside the hole at the five o'clock position. You will likely need to use a flashlight. You can just barely see the edge of the hole peeking out in this picture. If there is a 1/8" hole in there like the one shown in this "staged" photo. You should replace the valve cover. This hole is part of the culprit that lead to needing this repair. Please note that that new valve cover does not have the hole"
However....it looks like the Isolator Bolt are the main issue here more than anything else.
BTW...I do know that my coolant is orange in color. You change your coolant every 3K miles? Peak and Prestone both make coolant that is good for 150K or 5 years.
Yeah, I forgot to mention that, Ford updated the valve cover by 2003 so yours already came with the new design from factory. You still have to find out about the isolator bolts. If you find yourself with a CEL on and P0171/P0174 DTC's then you likely need them. One more hint would be oil seeping between the upper (plastic) and lower (aluminum) manifolds.
Sorry, I had a brain freeze. I don't replace it every 3k miles but around every 2 years, however I don't drive my cars that much, at least not like you guys do (I drive around 3k-4k miles a year at much, normally less as I shift between all 3 cars).
I've read that those extended interval coolants don't really last as advertised and the main concern with those is a brown/dark goop in the system which tends to create bigger problems :headshake, I can't be sure since I've never used it. Specially with orange coolants you should NEVER mix it with green coolant. It will breakdown and corrode the engine.
Oscar.
DontCome2MyHouse
11-16-2011, 07:42 PM
Yeah, I forgot to mention that, Ford updated the valve cover by 2003 so yours already came with the new design from factory. You still have to find out about the isolator bolts. If you find yourself with a CEL on and P0171/P0174 DTC's then you likely need them. One more hint would be oil seeping between the upper (plastic) and lower (aluminum) manifolds.
Sorry, I had a brain freeze. I don't replace it every 3k miles but around every 2 years, however I don't drive my cars that much, at least not like you guys do (I drive around 3k-4k miles a year at much, normally less as I shift between all 3 cars).
I've read that those extended interval coolants don't really last as advertised and the main concern with those is a brown/dark goop in the system which tends to create bigger problems :headshake, I can't be sure since I've never used it. Specially with orange coolants you should NEVER mix it with green coolant. It will breakdown and corrode the engine.
Oscar.
Seems like the TSB fix comes in a kit that includes a new valve cover. I'm not sure if I should replace my valve cover since it doesn't have that hole.
I don't see any oil seeping from the upper or lower gasket. I'll probable hold off until I get a CEL.
Why doesn't anyone mention the other valve cover (RH) closest to the firewall? Is that gasket effected (or is it affected:confused:) by this TSB???
Sorry, I had a brain freeze. I don't replace it every 3k miles but around every 2 years, however I don't drive my cars that much, at least not like you guys do (I drive around 3k-4k miles a year at much, normally less as I shift between all 3 cars).
I've read that those extended interval coolants don't really last as advertised and the main concern with those is a brown/dark goop in the system which tends to create bigger problems :headshake, I can't be sure since I've never used it. Specially with orange coolants you should NEVER mix it with green coolant. It will breakdown and corrode the engine.
Oscar.
Seems like the TSB fix comes in a kit that includes a new valve cover. I'm not sure if I should replace my valve cover since it doesn't have that hole.
I don't see any oil seeping from the upper or lower gasket. I'll probable hold off until I get a CEL.
Why doesn't anyone mention the other valve cover (RH) closest to the firewall? Is that gasket effected (or is it affected:confused:) by this TSB???
olopezm
11-16-2011, 07:54 PM
I don't know if Ford ever sold a kit with all the replacement parts but I do know Autozone sells one made by Dorman, however some users in the forum agree not to use it and some have reported the hoses contained in the kit tend to rot quickly. When I did mine I got the 8 isolator bolts and 6 port gaskets from the dealer. Didn't replace the valve cover.
The oil seepage doesn't happens in every case, happened to me but I've only seen it in the forum a couple of times. Other users only get the CEL on. As you said it's a good idea to wait until it comes on. If ever... ;).
Oscar.
The gasket on the valve cover is not the problem but the cover itself; it allows too much oil to be drawn through the PCV valve and into the manifold causing the rubber on the isolator bolts to breakdown and leak vacuum. The rear valve cover isn't affected so there is no need to replace that one ;).
Oscar.
The oil seepage doesn't happens in every case, happened to me but I've only seen it in the forum a couple of times. Other users only get the CEL on. As you said it's a good idea to wait until it comes on. If ever... ;).
Oscar.
The gasket on the valve cover is not the problem but the cover itself; it allows too much oil to be drawn through the PCV valve and into the manifold causing the rubber on the isolator bolts to breakdown and leak vacuum. The rear valve cover isn't affected so there is no need to replace that one ;).
Oscar.
phil-l
11-16-2011, 07:54 PM
The TSB only affects the front valve cover because only that valve cover accepts the fitting for the PCV system.
DontCome2MyHouse
11-16-2011, 09:05 PM
Is it completely necessary to take off all the parts, including the cowl, in that link in order to take off the Plenum?
phil-l
11-17-2011, 06:42 AM
Trust me: Taking off the cowl really doesn't take that long (I've done it several times now) - and it makes *every* step in the isolator bolt fix procedure go faster.
Early in my Windstar days, I replaced my spark plugs without removing the cowl. The front 3 took minutes; I spent several hours reaching, twisting and contorting to change the back 3. I was sore and grease-covered when it was done. Knowing to remove the cowl would have saved *so* much time that day...
Early in my Windstar days, I replaced my spark plugs without removing the cowl. The front 3 took minutes; I spent several hours reaching, twisting and contorting to change the back 3. I was sore and grease-covered when it was done. Knowing to remove the cowl would have saved *so* much time that day...
DontCome2MyHouse
11-17-2011, 06:58 AM
Trust me: Taking off the cowl really doesn't take that long (I've done it several times now) - and it makes *every* step in the isolator bolt fix procedure go faster.
Early in my Windstar days, I replaced my spark plugs without removing the cowl. The front 3 took minutes; I spent several hours reaching, twisting and contorting to change the back 3. I was sore and grease-covered when it was done. Knowing to remove the cowl would have saved *so* much time that day...
I took it off to change the back plugs last week. Not too difficult at all. The reason I ask is because I'm afraid I'm going to eventually break one of the plastic tabs holding the first part the the cowl that is removed. Seems very fragile.
Early in my Windstar days, I replaced my spark plugs without removing the cowl. The front 3 took minutes; I spent several hours reaching, twisting and contorting to change the back 3. I was sore and grease-covered when it was done. Knowing to remove the cowl would have saved *so* much time that day...
I took it off to change the back plugs last week. Not too difficult at all. The reason I ask is because I'm afraid I'm going to eventually break one of the plastic tabs holding the first part the the cowl that is removed. Seems very fragile.
olopezm
11-17-2011, 05:47 PM
Yeah they break easily when you force them too much, but I've taking off mine about 6 times (maybe more) and never break any, as long as you pry as close as posible to each one you should be fine.
Oscar.
Oscar.
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