Heater Quick-connect on intake manifold
3d914
10-23-2011, 03:07 PM
I'm in the process of replacing the lower intake manifold gaskets. Everything is going fine until I came across the quick-connect for the heater core at the back of the manifold. I can find no reference to this in the haines manual, and it's not clear if a tool is needed or not.
Anyone been-there-done-that?
TIA
Anyone been-there-done-that?
TIA
wiswind
10-25-2011, 05:47 PM
There is a lot of information on these connectors in the repair information for the Aerostar, but not the Windstar.
Autozone has the "special" disconnect tool available in their tool loaner program.
It is really hard to get the tool into the correct angle/position to depress the 2 nylon tabs to release the black connector body.
What has to happen is that the 2 nylon tabs must be pressed IN to release the black body of the connector.
So, you press the 2 tabs in, THEN, with them still pressed in....pull on the black body of the connector.
Here is a picture of what is inside the black body.
This picture was taken on my '96 3.8L during my lower intake manifold gasket job.
This picture is a part of a series that cover that repair.
The parts shown are CRITICAL.....the nylon clip part, the "O" rings and the spacer.
The nylon clip on mine broke, even when using the correct tool.
You can buy a "quick connect repair kit" at your dealership.
I think that the correct size is 3/4".
I had bought the 5/8" size, and it was too small......
It is very likely that yours will break as well......the nylon clips shown in the picture.....as it will be brittle from all the heat cycles over the years.
You may get lucky, and not have it break....but I want you to be prepared for this to happen.
You have to get everything into place correctly or this connector is going to leak or pop off when the system is up to pressure (while you are driving).
What I did was to cut the black connector body off the end of the heater hose, bend a support bracket for the hose to gain a little more slack in the hose....and rammed it onto the metal pipe on the lower intake manifold and use a common hose clamp to hold it in place.
http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/135/2306736350011220610S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2306736350011220610LKbEKH)
Autozone has the "special" disconnect tool available in their tool loaner program.
It is really hard to get the tool into the correct angle/position to depress the 2 nylon tabs to release the black connector body.
What has to happen is that the 2 nylon tabs must be pressed IN to release the black body of the connector.
So, you press the 2 tabs in, THEN, with them still pressed in....pull on the black body of the connector.
Here is a picture of what is inside the black body.
This picture was taken on my '96 3.8L during my lower intake manifold gasket job.
This picture is a part of a series that cover that repair.
The parts shown are CRITICAL.....the nylon clip part, the "O" rings and the spacer.
The nylon clip on mine broke, even when using the correct tool.
You can buy a "quick connect repair kit" at your dealership.
I think that the correct size is 3/4".
I had bought the 5/8" size, and it was too small......
It is very likely that yours will break as well......the nylon clips shown in the picture.....as it will be brittle from all the heat cycles over the years.
You may get lucky, and not have it break....but I want you to be prepared for this to happen.
You have to get everything into place correctly or this connector is going to leak or pop off when the system is up to pressure (while you are driving).
What I did was to cut the black connector body off the end of the heater hose, bend a support bracket for the hose to gain a little more slack in the hose....and rammed it onto the metal pipe on the lower intake manifold and use a common hose clamp to hold it in place.
http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/135/2306736350011220610S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2306736350011220610LKbEKH)
3d914
10-26-2011, 12:04 AM
wiswind, thanks for the reply. I saw your posting when I searched, but it was still missing some of the detail I needed - hence my post.
Here's a picture of the connector in question.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=44181&stc=1&d=1319604707
With some patience I was able to get the connector off, but it's not as straight-forward as it appears. Depressing this fragile plastic, after thousands of heat cycles, just doesn't cut it. Not to mention that there are two obstacles, not just one.
For future reference, here are the steps showing just the retainer and the connector.
Step 1: Depress & push away from the intake, the plastic arms (#1 in figure) which are 180deg apart sufficiently to get the lower lip at A to slide over the rib at B. One of my arms broke in the process.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=44182&stc=1&d=1319604707
Step 2: Next you must depress the the plastic retainer again to get the upper lip at position 2 to slide under the forward edge of the black connector at B. Since one arm was broken on mine, I used a needle-nose pliers to compress at positions 2. You'll notice that the black connector has two large recesses cut to allow this.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=44183&stc=1&d=1319604707
I can't imagine someone trying to do this with the upper intake in place, as it was hard enough with it off.
Anyway, hope this clarifies enough for others in the future.
ENjoy!
Here's a picture of the connector in question.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=44181&stc=1&d=1319604707
With some patience I was able to get the connector off, but it's not as straight-forward as it appears. Depressing this fragile plastic, after thousands of heat cycles, just doesn't cut it. Not to mention that there are two obstacles, not just one.
For future reference, here are the steps showing just the retainer and the connector.
Step 1: Depress & push away from the intake, the plastic arms (#1 in figure) which are 180deg apart sufficiently to get the lower lip at A to slide over the rib at B. One of my arms broke in the process.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=44182&stc=1&d=1319604707
Step 2: Next you must depress the the plastic retainer again to get the upper lip at position 2 to slide under the forward edge of the black connector at B. Since one arm was broken on mine, I used a needle-nose pliers to compress at positions 2. You'll notice that the black connector has two large recesses cut to allow this.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=44183&stc=1&d=1319604707
I can't imagine someone trying to do this with the upper intake in place, as it was hard enough with it off.
Anyway, hope this clarifies enough for others in the future.
ENjoy!
wiswind
10-26-2011, 07:39 PM
When you put it back together.....my picture shows all the little parts that are under the black body.....as they might have gone flying or be still stuck inside the black connector part.
The special tool has a fork like end that you press over the white tabs....it is supposed to hold them in so that you can wiggle the connector off the pipe.
The special tool has a fork like end that you press over the white tabs....it is supposed to hold them in so that you can wiggle the connector off the pipe.
3d914
10-26-2011, 10:12 PM
Thanks.
Ay idea what the ID of that section of heater hose is? I may need to replace the Quick-connect, and all the FLAPs has are two sizes. Instead of crimping on it uses a hose clamp. Hmmm.
Ay idea what the ID of that section of heater hose is? I may need to replace the Quick-connect, and all the FLAPs has are two sizes. Instead of crimping on it uses a hose clamp. Hmmm.
wiswind
10-31-2011, 07:16 PM
Your best bet would be to check with your local FORD dealership.
I have been unable to find a complete parts breakdown outside of what they have on the computers there.
That hose goes from the lower intake manifold (quick connect end that you are working with) to the heater core connection on the firewall.
I don't remember if there is any joint in the hose between the 2 places.....I don't think so on the pre-1999 years.
I have been unable to find a complete parts breakdown outside of what they have on the computers there.
That hose goes from the lower intake manifold (quick connect end that you are working with) to the heater core connection on the firewall.
I don't remember if there is any joint in the hose between the 2 places.....I don't think so on the pre-1999 years.
3d914
11-02-2011, 09:47 PM
Got it resolved. I just cleaned out the oring and space pieces inside the connector and replaced them. Had to fab my own spacer though. Hooked up good and tight - no leaks, yet.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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