hub/wheel bearing.......... cheap one or expensive one?

Ok so I changed the drivers side hub on my 99 e/c 4x4 Silverado last weekend and I still have a rumble in the front so I'm thinking that the passenger side is bad too and now the dilemma has come up as to whether buy another Timkin one or a cheapie off the net.This will be the second set of hubs on this truck as the originals were both changed one high priced 3 yr warranty one,I forget the make, and one with an Ebay deal.The cheap Ebay one might have had about 8-10000 less miles on it than the other one so I can't see where ponying up for a so called good expensive one is working out all that well,at least for me.I bought the Timkin one locally for $200 plus tax and it's supposed to be the be all end all,we'll see.What are guys on here using for replacement hubs?

http://www.stockwiseauto.com (http://www.stockwiseauto.com/)

Ordered a Timkin front hub from them 6/20. It was on my doorstep on the 22nd. Door to door was $96 and change. Only thing I wasn't too keen on was the fact that Timkin didn't authorize them to give any more than a one year warranty on it. Other than that, I'm assuming Timkin quality (if it's still as good as it used to be) at a cheap bearing price. No trouble with it yet and I was just in there over the weekend doing brakes and rotors.

This is the cheap bearing the Timkin replaced - Wheel hubs aren't supposed to be 2 piece.. (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1066992)

Ok so I changed the drivers side hub on my 99 e/c 4x4 Silverado last weekend and I still have a rumble in the front so I'm thinking that the passenger side is bad too and now the dilemma has come up as to whether buy another Timkin one or a cheapie off the net.This will be the second set of hubs on this truck as the originals were both changed one high priced 3 yr warranty one,I forget the make, and one with an Ebay deal.The cheap Ebay one might have had about 8-10000 less miles on it than the other one so I can't see where ponying up for a so called good expensive one is working out all that well,at least for me.I bought the Timkin one locally for $200 plus tax and it's supposed to be the be all end all,we'll see.What are guys on here using for replacement hubs?
Was the one you repaced BAD?
Like lose or have a rought noise?
As to cheap or good?

Well do you like replacing them ever time you turn around?
If so go the el chepo 90 day wonder how long it will last.

Just like they say you get what you pay for.

For a long lasting bearing go Timpkin/National/or good major brand.
check around for good price on them.
Bearings have a big markup.
Some places give 50-60 percent discount.
But Even the good ones only have a 1 year warranty but usually give many miles of service.
Also proper installation helps them last longer.
Good Luck

http://www.stockwiseauto.com (http://www.stockwiseauto.com/)

Ordered a Timkin front hub from them 6/20. It was on my doorstep on the 22nd. Door to door was $96 and change. Only thing I wasn't too keen on was the fact that Timkin didn't authorize them to give any more than a one year warranty on it. Other than that, I'm assuming Timkin quality (if it's still as good as it used to be) at a cheap bearing price. No trouble with it yet and I was just in there over the weekend doing brakes and rotors.

This is the cheap bearing the Timkin replaced - Wheel hubs aren't supposed to be 2 piece.. (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1066992)

If you see my AMBER ABS LIGHT post the wheel hubs from GM have very severe rust issues. this causes the failures.

hub assy are 2 pieces. with the correct power tools you can remove the bearing and seal and replace them. how do you think they get the bearing /seal put together. with a puller used to extract the defective rusted hub the hub can separate ...

I use a chisel ,,,, flat on one side. with penitrating rust buster oils the hub comes out together. the heat shield gets alittle distorted but if not too rusted can be corrected.

If you see my AMBER ABS LIGHT post the wheel hubs from GM have very severe rust issues. this causes the failures.

hub assy are 2 pieces. with the correct power tools you can remove the bearing and seal and replace them. how do you think they get the bearing /seal put together. with a puller used to extract the defective rusted hub the hub can separate ...

I use a chisel ,,,, flat on one side. with penitrating rust buster oils the hub comes out together. the heat shield gets alittle distorted but if not too rusted can be corrected.

So is it possible to just replace the bearing and seal in one of my old hubs and be good to go?I understand that everything would have to be cleaned spotless from rust etc for the abs sensor but I have 2 of these old hubs lying around and wondered about this for some time now.If so where can a person buy just the bearing and seal?

So is it possible to just replace the bearing and seal in one of my old hubs and be good to go?I understand that everything would have to be cleaned spotless from rust etc for the abs sensor but I have 2 of these old hubs lying around and wondered about this for some time now.If so where can a person buy just the bearing and seal?


the bearing and race come as a set. then the seal.

with the correct machine [press] manual or hydro you push out old, push in new. did a few of these , on other vehicles , as well as the U joints.

I did not do this on the 2000 sil because I do not have the use of this equipment at this time. also 70.oo is quite cheap.

you cannot use a hammer to do all this or you will damage the bearing. cleaning is no big deal. just some mineral spirits.

sensor is also no problem as long as you do not break it.

it is the rusty grease that did me in with the abs activations.....

Do you by chance have a cross reference number for the bearing and seal I could use?I have access to a press at work so that's no problem and I understand about not using a hammer to beat on things like this.I do have a fair amount of mechanical ability and have worked on press fit parts before all I need is so numbers to see if the local bearing supplier can get me what I need.

Do you by chance have a cross reference number for the bearing and seal I could use?I have access to a press at work so that's no problem and I understand about not using a hammer to beat on things like this.I do have a fair amount of mechanical ability and have worked on press fit parts before all I need is so numbers to see if the local bearing supplier can get me what I need.

I just tried to get some part info on this. no luck. things have changed in today's world. takes too much time to rebuild this stuff. just buy the complete hub and charge the customer 300.oo for a new assy.

Ok thanks for the info anyway.Like you say it's just easier to replace the whole unit than screw with trying to press a new bearing and seal onto the old hub.

Ok thanks for the info anyway.Like you say it's just easier to replace the whole unit than screw with trying to press a new bearing and seal onto the old hub.

years ago when time was not that much of a big deal, starters/alternators/hubs/U joints,carbs all where done in the shop to be rebuilt. In todays world the faster the flow threw the repair shop the greater the profit.

some shops would rebuild engines along with regular repairs.

since this is not going on now , parts suppliers droped all this stuff. I had a hard time finding a voltage regulator for my alternator recently.

like I said they just charge the customer 300.oo for a new hub. the higher the cost the greater amount the service manager makes !

Ok thanks for the info anyway.Like you say it's just easier to replace the whole unit than screw with trying to press a new bearing and seal onto the old hub.

I think I will start lubing the hub bearing every 30,ooomi. I will remove the speed sensor and with some high quality bearing grease give it a few pumps. then when the grease leaks out around the seal this should reduce the speed of seal rusting out.

I think I will start lubing the hub bearing every 30,ooomi. I will remove the speed sensor and with some high quality bearing grease give it a few pumps. then when the grease leaks out around the seal this should reduce the speed of seal rusting out.

I was wondering if that would work,it sounds like you may be onto something there.

do like so many others, buy one temkin. wait a few months then return the old bearing for a replace ment bearing under the warranty for the item to be sitting on the shelf new the next time you need it.... bearing issues happen frequently in these trucks