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'01 Impala Steering Rack


Karpman1000
07-31-2011, 07:40 PM
The steering rack has developed a bad leak (4 bottles of stop-leak goop and no better). My question is: has anyone replaced one without a hoist. It has FE2 suspension and appears to be tucked in between the sub-frame and the firewall. The car is now up on axle stands and the front wheels are off but I'm undecided whether to proceed. Any tips on how to make this seemingly p.i.t.a. job easier would very much be appreciated.
Thanks for reading

josephk300
08-06-2011, 10:12 AM
Yes the job is a PITA, but it can be done without a hoist. You will need to suspend the engine from the rear by utilizing the rear engine hoist hook, and using a ratchet tie strap around the stiffener bar that goes between the shock towers. Get a Haynes manual, or other of your choice, and there's plenty of into in there. A quick outline of what needs to be done:
1. Make sure the front wheels are pointed dead ahead, and maintain this position throughout the process. Seperate the tie rod ends from steering knuckles
2. Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft (google this for plenty of into on how to remove and lube it to prevent the dreaded steering clunk)
3. Using your jack, lower the rear of the subframe by loosening the rear subframe to body bolts. You may need to loosen the front ones as well. This gives you easier access to the flare nuts connecting the oil lines. (Definately do this with a set of metric flare nut wrenches)
4. Remove the oil lines to the rack, and let the oil drain out
5. The rack is bolted in two places - loosen and remove the bolt & nut.
6. Pop the rack up out its holders, and remove out through the drivers side
7. Remove the inner tie rod ends, and make note of how many turns it takes to remove. When you put the new tie rods on (or the one's you have), you'll be able to get the wheels straight enough to drive it a shop for alignment.
8. Would be a good idea to flush the power steering pump for foreign matter even though you've already gone through a few fills.
9. Reassemble in reverse order. Use the correct PS fluid for GM - I got mine from Advance Auto. The oil lines can be a real PITA to get back on. Lining it up right is the key. Be careful about cross threading.

I've done this job twice, which means I'm no expert, but the second time was definately faster and better than the first (the first rebuilt rack was bad).

Karpman1000
08-09-2011, 12:18 AM
Thanks Josephk300, wouldn't you know I just finished the job today. Pretty much did exactly what you outlined in your post. You're right about the oil lines... had to pull the rack back out because I got them on the wrong side and they wouldn't line up. Once I got them on the right side they went back in easily. The rubber boot that covers the shaft and the pinch-bolt was a little nasty to hold out of the way while removing that pinch-bolt. It was actually much easier than I thought it would be to do the whole re&re. I bought a second hand rack at a local auto parts recycler for $100 so if it works and doesn't leak I will be happy.

josephk300
08-09-2011, 08:38 PM
Just think about how much faster it will be the second time! :lol2: I assume you don't have the dreaded intermediate steering shaft (ISS) clunk, but if it comes up, you know how to get the shaft to rack connection undone, and the easier ISS to steering shaft is easier to get at. Good luck!

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