how to change brake rotors
Redline_civic91
05-28-2003, 03:30 PM
i need new rotors im ordering some brembo crossed drilled rotors. but i need somebodies help on how to take off the rotors. 91 4 door. any help is appreciated. i think i can do this on my own but i know theres people here that can help so i will use your knowledge, if you let me do so, thanx.
sastanley
05-28-2003, 03:54 PM
Dude...the front brake setup (and rears if they are disc) are about the MOST simple in the world. I have done about 5 sets of rotors on my car now....
I'll skip the real basics: I will assume that you know all the common sense things like taking all normal blocking/chocking jack stand precautions, etc..
1. jack up the car and get the wheels off.
2. remove the bottom bolt of the caliper assembly from the back of the caliper assembly. it is a 14mm I think.. it is usually pretty tight, but should break loose with a good socket. this bolt has a rubber collar that slides in and out when you step on the brae and the caliper moves...it should be pretty obvious..it is a 2.5 - 3" long bolt.
3. pivot caliper assembly up and away from rotor/pads...remove pads/shims - tie up caliper so as not to stress brake lines.
4. Remove two phillips screws in rotor. - use a GOOD screwdriver for this..I think they are #3 phillips, so a small normal screwdriver (#2) may strip the screws...Some peeps have issues with these screws, i personally never have...one trick to loosen tight screws is to whack the end of the driver with a hammer, similar to the force an impact driver would put on it. Also..since you are replacing the rotor, you can spray PB blaster/WD-40 etc. on them to loosen them up.
5. The rotor SHOULD almost fall off in your hand when the screws are out.
6. Make sure your hands are CLEAN before touching new rotors...grease and shit on the rotors I don't think is a good thing. Use new pads if you can...Old pads on a new rotor doesn't seem to make good common sense to me.
7. Re-assembly is the reverse process...With new rotors and/or pads, sometimes the piston needs to be pushed back in the caliper because your new pads/rotor assembly is thicker...be careful not to rip/tear/crack the rubber seal..inspect for good condition. Sometimes you can push it back in by hand..sometimes using a screwdriver and prying it in with the screwdriver across the caliper works...use patience, it moves slowly because you are pushing fluid back into the brake system thru those little tiny brake lines...it takes a good 10 seconds or so to move it 1/8" inch..Once it is out far enough it should slide over pads & rotors.
Good luck dude! :sun:
I'll skip the real basics: I will assume that you know all the common sense things like taking all normal blocking/chocking jack stand precautions, etc..
1. jack up the car and get the wheels off.
2. remove the bottom bolt of the caliper assembly from the back of the caliper assembly. it is a 14mm I think.. it is usually pretty tight, but should break loose with a good socket. this bolt has a rubber collar that slides in and out when you step on the brae and the caliper moves...it should be pretty obvious..it is a 2.5 - 3" long bolt.
3. pivot caliper assembly up and away from rotor/pads...remove pads/shims - tie up caliper so as not to stress brake lines.
4. Remove two phillips screws in rotor. - use a GOOD screwdriver for this..I think they are #3 phillips, so a small normal screwdriver (#2) may strip the screws...Some peeps have issues with these screws, i personally never have...one trick to loosen tight screws is to whack the end of the driver with a hammer, similar to the force an impact driver would put on it. Also..since you are replacing the rotor, you can spray PB blaster/WD-40 etc. on them to loosen them up.
5. The rotor SHOULD almost fall off in your hand when the screws are out.
6. Make sure your hands are CLEAN before touching new rotors...grease and shit on the rotors I don't think is a good thing. Use new pads if you can...Old pads on a new rotor doesn't seem to make good common sense to me.
7. Re-assembly is the reverse process...With new rotors and/or pads, sometimes the piston needs to be pushed back in the caliper because your new pads/rotor assembly is thicker...be careful not to rip/tear/crack the rubber seal..inspect for good condition. Sometimes you can push it back in by hand..sometimes using a screwdriver and prying it in with the screwdriver across the caliper works...use patience, it moves slowly because you are pushing fluid back into the brake system thru those little tiny brake lines...it takes a good 10 seconds or so to move it 1/8" inch..Once it is out far enough it should slide over pads & rotors.
Good luck dude! :sun:
Slythetove
05-28-2003, 03:57 PM
Some additional info if yours are stuck like mine:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t106131.html
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t106131.html
sastanley
05-28-2003, 04:04 PM
Yeah dude good info...you should also have a 2nd set of threaded holes between the studs and those are the ones 90CivicRider is talking about
If the screws are out and the rotor won't come off where that 2nd set of holes are the rotor there is roughly 3/4" thick, so a 1.5'' screw will screw into the hole (make sure the threads match!! - if you have one of the screws out you can use them as a guide to match that shit up.) and butt up against the hub behind the rotor...then as you screw them into the rotor, it slides out on the threads...I have only had to do this once, and on another car...most peeps have issues getting the screws out, and by the time they whack those loose, the rotor is loose on the hub and falls right off :D
If the screws are out and the rotor won't come off where that 2nd set of holes are the rotor there is roughly 3/4" thick, so a 1.5'' screw will screw into the hole (make sure the threads match!! - if you have one of the screws out you can use them as a guide to match that shit up.) and butt up against the hub behind the rotor...then as you screw them into the rotor, it slides out on the threads...I have only had to do this once, and on another car...most peeps have issues getting the screws out, and by the time they whack those loose, the rotor is loose on the hub and falls right off :D
91civicDXdude
05-28-2003, 04:46 PM
the reason people have trouble with those "screws" is that they are not normal screws, they are impact screws. when i changed my front rotors, i had no problems at all with them, but on the rear rotors (swapped from crx si) i had to use a dremel and slot out the screws then get them out with a straight screw driver.
Redline_civic91
05-29-2003, 05:01 AM
damn good info guys i really appreciate that thanx. so the rotors should come off with those two screws by the studs right?? im hoping the rotors will be here friday i will let you know how it goes.
sastanley
05-29-2003, 03:03 PM
Yeah..those two screws hold the rotor to the hub. My Dad had issues with his Del Slow rotors and had to dremel them out like 91civicDXdude and use an impact screwdriver to get his off too :bloated: Once those screws are out, you should be set. Keep in mind, the wheel really holds the rotors on, so when you re-assemble you don't have to torque the screws too tight..just snug them up with a good screwdriver, and let the wheels (properly torqued to 80-ish ft/lbs. ;)) do their job of holding the rotors on.
I have put so many damn sets of rotors on this car, it is pathetic (I think I am on #5 or 6 now). I am hoping when I take the car apart to swap the ZC in, I'll find something out of whack that keeps warping my rotors.. :( - But that also means my screws never sit long enough to get frozen in the hub. I can remove them like nothing now.
I have put so many damn sets of rotors on this car, it is pathetic (I think I am on #5 or 6 now). I am hoping when I take the car apart to swap the ZC in, I'll find something out of whack that keeps warping my rotors.. :( - But that also means my screws never sit long enough to get frozen in the hub. I can remove them like nothing now.
mellowboy
05-29-2003, 05:01 PM
I just love impact screw drivers. Makes ur life a bit easier:)
CRXtc
05-29-2003, 05:36 PM
actually NO, you have to remove the caliper bracket to take off the rotor
civickiller
05-29-2003, 05:58 PM
actually you dont even really need those screws, your wheel will hold hte rotor against the hub just fine, only gotta worry if yoru wheel comes loose
CRXtc
05-29-2003, 06:00 PM
Originally posted by civickiller
actually you dont even really need those screws, your wheel will hold hte rotor against the hub just fine, only gotta worry if yoru wheel comes loose
also true but that is kinda a dangerous situation
actually you dont even really need those screws, your wheel will hold hte rotor against the hub just fine, only gotta worry if yoru wheel comes loose
also true but that is kinda a dangerous situation
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025
