Transmission, driver side lock and Power Sliding Door problems

Hello again guys,

Well this morning my windstar started acting up the usual info is:
2000 windstar 87200 miles.

1.- The Transmission takes more than usual to engage, there are no codes or rough shifting. As usual if the gas pedal is pressed before the gear has engaged there will be a kick once it finally does. Could this be caused by a bad/misaligned TRS? the only thing I've noticed since a shop rebuilt the transmission last may was the gear indicator needle in the instrument cluster is a bit out of adjustment (I posted this in one of my older threads but got no comment about it).

Click here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=6734200&postcount=11)

2.- The lock on the driver's door will lock/unlock electrically only sometimes, the rest of the time I have to either use the key or the handle to unlock it and push it by hand to lock it. When I press the button, the lock will look like it tries to move but it will go back to it's previous state right away.

3.- The Power Sliding Door will open automatically but won't close in the same way, I've tried running the reprogram procedure but I can't even finish it as I have to close the door by hand...

I've read that both PSD and electric locks are operated with two different modules. Could these be the cause of my problems?.

Thanks in advance,

Oscar.

Well i inspected the door lock actuator and seemed to be fine, I gave it some cleaning and will see if it has been fixed? Any comments on point number 1? Thanks in advance.

Oscar.

Well i inspected the door lock actuator and seemed to be fine, I gave it some cleaning and will see if it has been fixed? Any comments on point number 1? Thanks in advance.

Oscar.


Check this video out Oscar, I think it be worth adjusting to se what happens:

http://www.videosurf.com/video/change-your-safety-neutral-switch-on-a-ford-windstar-2000-75115434

Hope this helps

Thank you my friend, I'll check it out and will post back. Do you think the TRS could be causing the lag while engaging gears?

Regards,

Oscar.

Thank you my friend, I'll check it out and will post back. Do you think the TRS could be causing the lag while engaging gears?

Regards,

Oscar.

Oscar I am far from a tranny person. I think it is a strong possiblity delaying the engagement since it is electronic, but I am quessing. I think it would worth your time to adjust, could be a little loose and be moving around and not sending the correct signal. According to video doesn't seem to be hard to adjust but I have never done it. Do you get any codes or pending codes??

good luck

The driver's side power door lock actuator is a electrical solenoid that is mounted on the actual latch.......the cleaning and lubrication would have been the FIRST thing that I would try.

Seems those TRS modules act up a LOT on the windstars around your vintage.
Also make sure that the fluid level is FULL when checked with the vehicle on level ground, motor running at idle, Gear select in PARK.
Even slightly low transmission fluid level can cause what you are having.
Also, make sure that the fluid has been changed on at least the 30K mile interval.....a cooler line fluid exchange takes just over 12 quarts.

Oscar I am far from a tranny person. I think it is a strong possiblity delaying the engagement since it is electronic, but I am quessing. I think it would worth your time to adjust, could be a little loose and be moving around and not sending the correct signal. According to video doesn't seem to be hard to adjust but I have never done it. Do you get any codes or pending codes??

good luck

Oh, I understand. Thank you very much my friend. I watched the video and it's quite easy to adjust it.

The driver's side power door lock actuator is a electrical solenoid that is mounted on the actual latch.......the cleaning and lubrication would have been the FIRST thing that I would try.

Seems those TRS modules act up a LOT on the windstars around your vintage.
Also make sure that the fluid level is FULL when checked with the vehicle on level ground, motor running at idle, Gear select in PARK.
Even slightly low transmission fluid level can cause what you are having.
Also, make sure that the fluid has been changed on at least the 30K mile interval.....a cooler line fluid exchange takes just over 12 quarts.

Thank you wiswind, you've always been of great help I appreciate it!. The oil is still the one they put in when the guy rebuilt the tranny, still is far from being 30k mile old and the level is right at the crosshatched area.

**********************************

Here's what I did today:

I removed the TRS after disconnecting the battery (thank God I don't have the rust problem you guys have up north, when I removed it it was pretty easy, didn't have to pry at all!) it actually seemed to be a bit misaligned, I gave it a good clean and reinstalled it taking into account the marks on the 'N' printed on it; tightened both holding screws and tightened the nut holding the shift linkage. Didn't have a chance to drive it, but will surely do tomorrow and will post the results.

On the door lock, well its still doing it, even though I removed it and the tests were OK seems it has gone weak so I'll have to replace it with a new one (removing it is a PITA!).

Still no news about the PSD, it will open fine but won't close all the times, when I push the button the door will act like it's still trying to open (even when it's already at the end of the run). I guess I'll just keep looking.

Regards,

Oscar.

Just a quick update:

The transmission started acting up the other day, I was driving backwards into the garage and when I finally applied the brakes the tranny started to go in and out of reverse several times (it was kinda rough and harsh). I decided to replace the TRS (110 dlls from the dealer DAMN!).

So far it seems to be OK but there is something strange, when I put the van in (R)everse the transmission will engage immediately but when I put (D)rive it will take about 1 or 2 seconds to engage. Any ideas on this?

Maybe it's just a coincidence what else could cause that?

Thanks in advance,

Oscar.

I was thinking if this could be an accumulator problem, maybe just a bad spring? Should this be the problem (I'm thinking it's very likely): would this cause any other/major problem to the transmission other than the delay?.

Oscar.

Just a quick update:

The transmission started acting up the other day, I was driving backwards into the garage and when I finally applied the brakes the tranny started to go in and out of reverse several times (it was kinda rough and harsh). I decided to replace the TRS (110 dlls from the dealer DAMN!).

So far it seems to be OK but there is something strange, when I put the van in (R)everse the transmission will engage immediately but when I put (D)rive it will take about 1 or 2 seconds to engage. Any ideas on this?

Maybe it's just a coincidence what else could cause that?

Thanks in advance

If you park on a grade it is normal for the tranny to experience delay in engaging. Could aslso be TRS related or even VSS acting up.

If you park on a grade it is normal for the tranny to experience delay in engaging. Could aslso be TRS related or even VSS acting up.

It's being parked on a leveled surface. TRS has just been replaced with new OEM.

Why would the VSS cause problems when the vehicle is stopped? the speedometer is not showing any bad readings while idling, only when cruising above 50 MPH but it's been like that since we bought it and that problem never showed up before.

Thanks,

Oscar.

Why would the VSS cause problems when the vehicle is stopped?

It would only act up if it's malfunctioning. When I bought my '00 the seller told me the speedometer was "jammed" because it showed 30mph even when stopped and would only come to life at speeds above that. This did cause odd shifting. But replacing the VSS solved the problem... for a while at least. Now the speedo only displays exactly half the actual speed, go figure.

That's weird...

The VSS on mine only acts up (I think) above 55MPH, the speedometer needle starts jumping erratically but, as I mentioned before, it's been like that since we bought it unlike the transmission lag.

Anyway, it's a bit annoting but I guess I can live with that... I'll just keep an eye on it.

Thanks for your help!

That's weird...

The VSS on mine only acts up (I think) above 55MPH, the speedometer needle starts jumping erratically but, as I mentioned before, it's been like that since we bought it unlike the transmission lag.

Anyway, it's a bit annoting but I guess I can live with that... I'll just keep an eye on it.

Thanks for your help!

It's quite likely that I'm way off but I have an unverified theory that the VSS only accounts for half the speed computing value that is sent to the speedometer, but I have no idea which other sensor would contribute and how it would affect shifting delays. I only know it's not the ABS system.

I don't know about the '00 Windstar, but my '96 uses a mechanical speedometer, and therefor does not use the VSS to display the speed. The VSS is only used by the PCM & Cruise Control. Transmission shifting is (obviously) determined based on VSS input. When my VSS malfunctioned (bad connection), the O/D light on the steering column flashed, and it stored a code to that effect.

The speedometer is electronic in 99+ windstars. Mine is not showing any O/D light, I don't know about codes as I don't have any transmission capable scanner nor I know about a good shop to have it scanned. The dealer here is way more expensive than in the US (so far everything I've bought from it is twice the price) and the guy who fixed the transmission last year made a huge mess with other components around it so I really want to avoid it (even for scanning), can't stand to see his face...

Just a quick update:

So far after the trs replacement the van drives so smooth, the engine is quieter (doesn't seems to rev as much as before) and the shifter lever is softer than before, also travels all the way to '1' gear! I'll just keep an eye on the lag while shifting from park or neutral to drive, the needle jumping because of the vss doesn't bothers me, specially after reading it's a mess to replace it...

Oscar.

It sounds alot like the probelm I had. I believe its your Rear Control Module. Just replace it and see your problems go away. It is located behind your car jack at the back of your car, passenger side.

Take off the metal bracket that holds the jack. Then pull the yellow sound insulation back. Behind it will be the Rear Control Module, which is retangular metal box. You will see 5 different wire harness clips coming out of it.

Replace that module. Takes only 10 mins to remove, and another 10mins to replace, bracket and all.

Its amazing how much that thing controls, but after you see all the wires you will know it does. It controls the lock, the auotmatic doors, the speedometer, etc.

Brand new from the Dealership is $360. Get one from the junk yard for $15 or $25. Since you have a 2000 Windstar like me, your van can use one from a 2000 or 2001 MY vehicle (Do not buy a 2002 or later, as it won't work). I have a 2000 Windstar SEL with auto doors. The first module I bought was from a 2001 Windstar LX. Everything worked great but door did not move. I just bought another one yesterday off of craigslist, for $35 from a 2000 Windstar SEL. Now everything works and the doors too.

Don't drive your self crazy, just replace the module. I'll be updating my own post shortly. There is more information in there, so check it out.

Fulcrum

Thanks Fulcrum,

I wonder what makes them fail. I guess I'll take a look at it and take it apart to see if there's anything suspicious inside...

Oscar.

So I just checked out your thread and I think there might be some other similar things:

The Fuel gauge (mine is an SE so I don't have a computer in the dash) even when it works, the readings are kinda crappy, if I put in 5 gallons the needle will raise one quarter buit if I put in 2.5 gallons the needle won't move at all until 3-4 cycles it will climb a little each cycle until it either gets to the correct position or will just stay somewhere in the middle of the before and after refueling.

The reverse sensors go CRAZY from time to time, sometimes they will work fine with the intermittent beeping and will get faster as the distance decreases, some other times I'll get a constant (annoying) beep like I'm already ON the other car even when there's nothing behind. It drives me crazy...

The driver door lock was working intermittently, it would work fine some times, some other it would just seem to move but wouldn't either fully lock/unlock. After I took it off the door to clean it and inspect it it just stopped working. I guess I might have screwed it thinking the problem was in the door =(.

The PSD (only passenger side, other is manual) opens automatically, but when I try to close it, will still try to open and stop as it is already at the end of the run. I think since it started acting up it's been only about 10 times that the door opened and closed the way it should.

I remember that the A/C light at the front controls would light up when MAX A/C was selected, it no longer does but I can manually turn it on by pressing the A/C button.

Finally sometimes when I turn the key to the RUN position (KOEO), and if the A/C was previously on and turned off, the fan will blow for a second and turn off.

All these "un-noticeable" problems are similar to yours, which makes me think I might have a problem with the REM. Thanks to you Fulcrum for pointing me into that direction.

Oscar.