spark plug wire replacement help

So my beast has 120k on it and never had a tune up. i want to change at least the front 3 plugs myself. where are the front 3 plugs and wires located and are they easy to change. i am somewhat handy but have never done this and could use a somewhat detailed explanation of what to do.

To replace the wires and spark plugs (specially the 3 at the back of the engine) it would be a better idea to remove the windshield wiper cowl. It only takes a few bolts and the 2 nuts holding the wiper blades. After that you'll see the wires, the coil pack and have lots of room to change the spark plugs.

Make sure you replace the wires one at a time so you don't mix them.

ONE MORE THING you said this will be the first tune up so I would suggest you to mark the wires, remove them from the coil pack and remove the coil pack itself. Take a look at the back of it as these are known to crack and short to ground causing misfiring problems and rough idling.

Oscar.

Remember to use Double Platinum spark plugs (Motorcraft or Autolite) this is VERY important. Yesterday I cleaned the 3 spark plugs on the inside. They are really hard to get without removing the cowl.

Another option is to do it from under the car. with the front up on ramps, transmission in PARK, Parking brake set, and blocks behind the rear wheels....engine and exhaust COOL. Slide in untill you would be looking at the floor boards if you went back any further.....so you are looking up just barely in front of the firewall.

I cleaned them and fuel injectors because there were misfire and black smoke under hard acceleration (I changed them 4 months ago, and they were really dirty with carbon build up). I will recommend you to remove the plenum and take those injectors out and clean them. They do not fail but get clogged really easy. I cleaned them 6 months ago and they were really dirty and 2 of them clogged. Now it pours like a kitten again.

Also I will recommend you to change fuel filter and air filter.

regards and good luck.

My '99 is approaching 309K miles. I've had the (original) injectors out a few times ... they have always been mirrow-bright on the output end ... no build-up at all. I attribute this to the usual/somtimes additive of fresh motor oil at each gas-up. I try to remember to do it each time ... but if its raining, or I'm in a big hurry ...

Now, the inlet end of the injectors have been a different matter. I can't control the cleanlinest of the fuel I add to the tank ... especially on trips. Even tho I change the in-line filter pretty often, there will be a slow passage of sludge over time to the injectors. My injectors have had many gallons pass thru them. A sideways blast of brake cleaner into the top end of the injectors cleans out the inlet screen just fine.

On spark cables: I believe it is a good practice to add a protective full-length plastic conduit cover to replacement spark cables. Keeps them from rubbing against engine parts and wearing.

I just did this on Good Friday. I also removed the wiper cowl and highly reccomend going this route. I've replaced the plugs only on the backside of the engine from under the van which gives suprisingly good access but you can't do the wires without pulling the cowl.

Incidentally, if you ever do anything with the power steering pump or the heater lines, it's much easier to access everything if you remove this cowl.

It's 2 pieces;


Start by removing the wiper blades and disconnect the wire harness from the lower front right part of the cowl. (this may be easier if you take the intake plenum between the air filter and the MAF)
remove the plastic insert screws and inserts from the top cowl portion.
Gently lift the top of the cowl and pop loose from the spring fasteners up near the winshield. I've found it's easier to slide it towards the winshield while doing this.
remove the spray fluid tubes at the upright that is before the exit nozzles.
Lift out the top half and store safely.
Remove the lower cowl bolts (2 on each end under hinges, 1 in the middle at the firewall, and several holding the fresh air and cabin return air plenum together)
Remove washer fluid tube near where it goes through the cowl. (Between the engine coolant resevoir and the cowl I think)
Lift out the lower cowl. (I like to think there's Indiana Jones, Raiders of the Lost Ark music playing like when they lift the Ark from the Well of Souls) Hey! It can be a spiritual moment when you open up that kind of access to the engine bay!:wink:
Installation is the reverse.
I replace the wires one at a time and I don't remove the wire from the coil pack until I'm ready to plug the new one it. I don't know about the rest of you but I find it very frustrating when my car won't start because I've hooked up the plug wires wrong.:nono:

This fixed a low power shudder my van was having that I thought was torque converter going bad. Thankfully, I tried this first. The number 1 plug had a calcification corrosion I've never seen before on a plug and was definitely impacting ignition.

Good luck with your repair!

A can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool in the gasoline tank (enough to treat the 20 or 25 gallons of fuel) is the ONLY fuel add that I found (and I tried MANY) that cleaned the fuel injectors up in my '96 3.8L Windstar.
I think the newer windstars are less prone to develop the buildup as compared to the 1st generation ('95-98) windstars.
It is a LOT easier to add the Chemtool to the gasoline tank than to remove and clean the injectors.
I use the Chemtool that comes in a metal can.

Newer Windstars, '99 and newer seem to have more issues with the coil pack failing.

As for removing the windshield wiper cowl......I have step by step pictures posted in the pictures that the link in my signature takes you to......that show how to remove the cowl.
Spark plugs on my '96 were very easy to change from under the vehicle.
Use ONLY the double platinum plugs of the part number listed for the Windstar.
Spark plug wires, I would ONLY remove 1 at a time.....too easy to cross them.
When removing them....grip by the boot part at the end.....twist it on the plug to break the seal.....then, while twisting, pull the boot straight off.

I live in a very small island in the Caribbean Sea. some winstars around, even a napa store here. But it's impossible to get Berrymans products here. Cleaning injectors here must be done the hard way. I wouldn't recommend fuel additives at all. I've never used them in any of my cars.

regards