Jelled substance in pcv channel?

3400 engine, 95K, 2002..I changed oil and filter last week and and noticed a jelled substance (near vasolene in color) in the channel in valve cover at oil filler that leads to the pcv. Mileage from last change was about 3000 mi. but long in terms of months, 6 months to be sure. This substance was also on the filler cap. I have never noticed this before but cannot say it was not there previously other than never on the cap at other changes. Is this an indication of coolant getting into the oil from the dreaded intake malfunction? Or just too long a change interval in terms of time? Note: pcv itself was clean and i think functional.

Are you losing coolant? An 02 is highly likely to have the manifold gasket leak- has yours ever been changed?

Yes I changed over to a green coolant last year. No I have not noticed any loss of coolant. I have not to this time had the intake problem. I will be doing a redo on the flush and new coolant when weather breaks.

Yes I changed over to a green coolant last year. No I have not noticed any loss of coolant. I have not to this time had the intake problem. I will be doing a redo on the flush and new coolant when weather breaks.

was that kinda pink antifrezze and you mixed it with green? that will cause it to jell up alot of people don't agree.

It was the dexcool I changed over from, flushed 4 times over a one month period before shifting to the green. Reason for the change was a constant problem with the low coolant indicator....problem solved as a result!

It was the dexcool I changed over from, flushed 4 times over a one month period before shifting to the green. Reason for the change was a constant problem with the low coolant indicator....problem solved as a result!

Could be condensation build up.
Does the engine come up fast to 195 degrees operating temperature or take a long time to warm up?
Is there a lot of short drives?
Any check engine lights or codes?
Is the PCV valve system working and sucking good?

Operating temp seems to be normal 15 to 20 min depending on outside temps. YES to the fact of many short drives 16 mi being the longest most of the time for the last year and bunches of 2 & 3 mi., Maybe 60 miles or so once per month. PCV valve...not really sure on that I know it rattles freely, not sure how one checks for vacuum power in line. No codes or lights known. Never a check engine light, other than ignition start.

Operating temp seems to be normal 15 to 20 min depending on outside temps. YES to the fact of many short drives 16 mi being the longest most of the time for the last year and bunches of 2 & 3 mi., Maybe 60 miles or so once per month. PCV valve...not really sure on that I know it rattles freely, not sure how one checks for vacuum power in line. No codes or lights known. Never a check engine light, other than ignition start.
It should warm up in 5 or more minutes
If condensation build up it needs a long drive or even let run a hr or more.
To check PCV valve suction remove valve and hold finger over hose.
And remove oil filler cap and hold hand over hole.
No pressure should be felt.

It needs to get up to 195 degrees operating tempt to boil out the moisture build up in engine.
On Short drives it does not warm up enought.
Outside of being nasty looking condensation buildup does not hurt much as long as it does not sludge up oil.

3400 engine, 95K, 2002..I changed oil and filter last week and and noticed a jelled substance (near vasolene in color) in the channel in valve cover at oil filler that leads to the pcv. Mileage from last change was about 3000 mi. but long in terms of months, 6 months to be sure. This substance was also on the filler cap. I have never noticed this before but cannot say it was not there previously other than never on the cap at other changes. Is this an indication of coolant getting into the oil from the dreaded intake malfunction? Or just too long a change interval in terms of time? Note: pcv itself was clean and i think functional.


you will not agree but these are the facts with oil changing. the oil if dino regular oil requires changing every 3,ooomi or every 3 months if not over the 3,ooomiles....with short driving trips that the engine never gets to the correct operating temp this means you must change the oil less than this recommendation...also the engine must be at the operating temp when the oil is drained...the PCV must be working perfectly , with these driving operations of very short distances.

when you convert to silicate antifreeze you must completely drain the engine and radiator..then use the ACID flush...then install the new thermostat and the silicate. then hope you don't have any coolant system failures/gaskets/corrosion issues.........