Exhaust value no sealing 4.3 Vortex <HELP>

1992 S-10 blazer 4.3 vortac vin w with non adjustable heads
I just had my heads redone and #3 exhaust valve is not sealing if i losen the rocker arm nut it seals.. Did i get a bad head job??? or is there anything i can do?
The blazer missing alittle it didnt pass smog at idle with HC 140 max im at 120 at 2500rpm the HC is at 31 max is 180, im in california, So my problem is at idle what can cause this problem?

Thanks Brad

1992 S-10 blazer 4.3 vortac vin w with non adjustable heads
I just had my heads redone and #3 exhaust valve is not sealing if i losen the rocker arm nut it seals.. Did i get a bad head job??? or is there anything i can do?
The blazer missing alittle it didnt pass smog at idle with HC 140 max im at 120 at 2500rpm the HC is at 31 max is 180, im in california, So my problem is at idle what can cause this problem?

Thanks Brad
Do not drive it like that or you will burn up valve.

How many turns lose does it take to get a seal?

Sounds like the machine shop did not set valve stem heigh right.

If it has the non adjustable rocker and and you have to losen it up to get the valve to seal?
Then remove all rocker arms and lay a straight edge across top of valve stems.
They all should be even heigh.
Are they?

If not and one is way higher than the rest I would file or grind it down even with the rest.

If all valve stem heights are uneven you have a messed up valve job.
Then You may want to have a talk with machine shop and see if they will fix it on there dime.

Let us know how it goes.

Thanks MT-2500

I'll go see if all the valves are the same height now...

Will I did drive the blazer on a 3 hour round trip to the sierra mountains camping. That is with all the rocker arms torque to 20ft-lbs.

Will i did the test. and it looks like the #3 exhaust valve is low. I slid a feeler gauge between the valve and the straight edge.

Will i did the test. and it looks like the #3 exhaust valve is low. I slid a feeler gauge between the valve and the straight edge.

i would go to the shop you had it done and rip them a new you know what and let them make it right on there dime.

Will i did the test. and it looks like the #3 exhaust valve is low.

i would of thought it be higher??
it may not matter now but when reading #1 post
my 1st thought was a lifter problem

Will i did the test. and it looks like the #3 exhaust valve is low. I slid a feeler gauge between the valve and the straight edge.

Strange it should have been high if you have to loosen rocker arm to get it to seal.
But they should be all the same hight if valve job done right.
As in upper post better check for lifter problem to.
And AS SCRAPPER SAID BETTER HAVE A TALK WITH MACHINE SHOP.
GOOD LUCK

I did replace a one lifter because it was stuck.. I cant remember what one it was.. It could be that one...

The reason i had my heads done. becasue i bent a rod do to the fuel regulator going out pouring gas in to cylinder 4 fill it up when i tryed to stated it, it when clunk. after i fix that it had a weird ticking noise from the bottom end the ticking noise was the rod being bent hitting the pan..

This head i had a hard time getting the exhaust header to fit right. i have to drill out the exhaust header to get the bolts to line up.. It was huge about 1/4 inch on the front bolt and on the last bolt. Is that normal i even got one from the junk yard it didnt line up eather.

This weekend i'll go in there to see what my lifter looks like and check the size to the other ones.
Hope its not rain...

Thanks Guys for read my post and helping me thru is..
Not the best at spelling..

I did replace a one lifter because it was stuck.. I cant remember what one it was.. It could be that one...

The reason i had my heads done. becasue i bent a rod do to the fuel regulator going out pouring gas in to cylinder 4 fill it up when i tryed to stated it, it when clunk. after i fix that it had a weird ticking noise from the bottom end the ticking noise was the rod being bent hitting the pan..

This head i had a hard time getting the exhaust header to fit right. i have to drill out the exhaust header to get the bolts to line up.. It was huge about 1/4 inch on the front bolt and on the last bolt. Is that normal i even got one from the junk yard it didnt line up eather.

This weekend i'll go in there to see what my lifter looks like and check the size to the other ones.
Hope its not rain...

Thanks Guys for read my post and helping me thru is..
Not the best at spelling..

Good idea there.
Check the lifting height and rocker arm and push rod lenghts.
If you still have rockers off check the height of top of push rods and push rod lenghts.
If valve stem heigh is even with the rest or a little low and you have to losen up rocker arm to get valve to seal.
There is someting raising to much on opening valve.
You mught also switch rocker arms .
Good luck and let us know how it goes

I'll check the push rod and swap the rocker arm. thats alot easyer then pulling the thing apart...

I'll check the push rod and swap the rocker arm. thats alot easyer then pulling the thing apart...

10-4 on that.
How far do you have to losen it before valve seals?
If all else fails grind some off of top of valve stem

10-4 on that.
How far do you have to losen it before valve seals?
If all else fails grind some off of top of valve stem

Its about 1/2 of a turn out

Ok so match two push rods and there the same

I switch the rocker arms. and now its hard to starts when i back off the rocker arm nut and it starts. its running abit rough but now i have smoke coming out the back (muffler), i do have the valve cover off.. can the smoke come form that (i did a oil change on a friends car and spiled some oil on the header and it smoked out the back, is this the samething)

And one more thing it takes about 10 minute for oil to come out of the puch rods at idel it just runs out, not flicking all over the place is this bad??

Ok so what dose this mean i changed back the rocker arms and torque it down to 20ft lbs its fires right up and no smoke??

Ok so what dose this mean i changed back the rocker arms and torque it down to 20ft lbs its fires right up and no smoke??

Is it running without missing now with rocker arms torqued down?
If so you should be good to go.

I have had lifters where you had to leave rockers a little lose and tighten down real slow a little at atime while running to get lifter to readjust itself.

As long as it is oiling any you are OK.

No it still has a miss. i think im going to go in there and change all the lifters out...

No it still has a miss. i think im going to go in there and change all the lifters out...

Let us know how it goes.

Mr S10 did you replace the head or exhaust manifold??
trying to figure out why you needed to drill holes for them to bolt up

Mr S10 did you replace the head or exhaust manifold??
trying to figure out why you needed to drill holes for them to bolt up

Will when i went to put the thing together the exhaust manifold manifold didnt line up.(driver side) i thought it was bent or something so i ran to the junk yard to get a diffent one, it was the same. So thats why i drill the ex manifold not the head, so it would fit.

What would cause the ex manifold not to line up?

I'll start the lifter job on saterday i hope.

Thanks Guys For all your time helping me...:icesangel

Will when i went to put the thing together the exhaust manifold manifold didnt line up.(driver side) i thought it was bent or something so i ran to the junk yard to get a diffent one, it was the same. So thats why i drill the ex manifold not the head, so it would fit.

What would cause the ex manifold not to line up?

I'll start the lifter job on saterday i hope.

Thanks Guys For all your time helping me...:icesangel

You are welcome.

The manifolds shrink in over use and time from the hot temptures they run at.
You can drill out as you did or.
They make a spreader tool that can be put between ports and spread it back out to get bolts to line up.

On the valve/rocker arm being to tight.
Check the sholder on rocker arm stud for being damaged or to low.
with rocker arms off hold a straight edge across the shoulders and see if they are all even.
If the problem valve stud shoulder is to low or bad sholder that could be your problem.

Good luck and keep us updated on how it goes.

It looks like its going to be friday 03.25.11 before I can buy my lifters Thats when I get paid. There 12.99 each.
Ill keep you all posted..
Thanks

when you get them make sure you soak them in oil over night
until your ready to install

The one lifter that i got i didnt soak it over night.(Just had it in a bag of oil for maybe 30 minutesor less) Do you think that what cause the push rod to ride high?
What dose happen if you dont soak the lifter?

its some thing i do. dont no what happens if you dont,may just take
longer for them to pump up, not really sure how long to soak them
i just put them in oil until im ready to install them.

Good luck

Ok I did another leak down test, with the rockers off and theres air coming out the exhaust and the air intake alot out of 3 exhaust and not as much out of 1 & 5 and it sounded like air was coming out of the pan though the head oil ports, I retested it again after i put oil in the cylinder it sounded the same so my rings are good i think. Have not tested 2,4,6 yet i'll do that when i take to manifold. I hate diding a job twice.

Thanks guys is there anything else i should check before ripping this thing apart again.

And should i get new head bolts again when i take the heads off. I did get new one the last time..

And should i get new head bolts again when i take the heads off. I did get new one the last time..

i would just to be safe better than having to tear it down again.

What is the best way to test if the valves are seated properly. With the heads off. Do they need to be 100% sealed. I want to test the head before i send them in and after i get them back..

What is the best way to test if the valves are seated properly. With the heads off. Do they need to be 100% sealed. I want to test the head before i send them in and after i get them back..

Yes they need to seal.
I would air test the cylinder with rocker arms off before pulling heads as you have done.
Which shows valve leakage.
After heads are off turn them upside down on a bench and pour a thing liquid into the cutout where valves are see if it seeps out or runs down.
Not a 100% test but will show one not sealing.

But in past post you told us they were sealing with rocker arms losened up.

Before pulling heads check that out.

Let us know where you are at and what you have found nand tested.

Did you try another known good lifter on the valve you are having problems with.

If you have head off let the machine shop check them out.

But in past post you told us they were sealing with rocker arms losened up.

Let us know where you are at and what you have found nand tested.

Did you try another known good lifter on the valve you are having problems with.



When i losened up the rocker it souned like it was purring runing fine no miss.
I was going to buy all new lifters but didnt have the change to doso, so i pulled the head off the one side that had the problem i sprayed wd40 in the port and air to it and it was bubbling number 3 exhust valve.
Im going to take the other head off the have him check them both since im this far in the porject. It looking sun out there so im going to go work on it, and send the heads in. just want to test them before and after i get them back...

When i losened up the rocker it souned like it was purring runing fine no miss.
I was going to buy all new lifters but didnt have the change to doso, so i pulled the head off the one side that had the problem i sprayed wd40 in the port and air to it and it was bubbling number 3 exhust valve.
Im going to take the other head off the have him check them both since im this far in the porject. It looking sun out there so im going to go work on it, and send the heads in. just want to test them before and after i get them back...

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Its about time the weather let me get out there, Ok the heads are off, trying to getting them to the shop. To me it looks like thay didnt do a good job on the lapping. The Exhaust valve aren't sealed air bubbles..
So anyone know how much Hp/power i Lost from have the exhaust valves not sealing?

Its about time the weather let me get out there, Ok the heads are off, trying to getting them to the shop. To me it looks like thay didnt do a good job on the lapping. The Exhaust valve aren't sealed air bubbles..
So anyone know how much Hp/power i Lost from have the exhaust valves not sealing?

How much HP you lost is like spilt milk or water running under the bridge.
It is lost and no way to tell how much and nom way to get back what you lost.

Better worry about getting the heads fixed right and getting them back on right.
Let us know how that goes

Lapping is checking to see where the seat is matching the valve face and sealing/touching all of the way around seat and valve.
Or in other words tells how good the valve/seat grind job is.
With better valve grinding equipment I am not even sure modern machine shops lap in the valves anymore.

Ok got the heads back on the april 1 he said the middle exhaust valves need regrinding. Just got my head gasket yesterday so far its running, sounds good but i have a exhaust leak fixing thet know. As soon as its has no leaks and i take it to the smog shop ill let you all know how it went..

Thanks guys for all you help. I would havd just sold the blazer at a loss if it wasent for you all. Super THANKS Brad CA :)

Ok got the heads back on the april 1 he said the middle exhaust valves need regrinding. Just got my head gasket yesterday so far its running, sounds good but i have a exhaust leak fixing thet know. As soon as its has no leaks and i take it to the smog shop ill let you all know how it went..

Thanks guys for all you help. I would havd just sold the blazer at a loss if it wasent for you all. Super THANKS Brad CA :)

You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it is going.
It sounds like theyn did not do it righjt to start with.
Did the shop give you a reason why the valve/valves needed reground?

Now it pop at idle like it has a miss, its like a exhaust cough ever once in awhile. what can this mean?

Now it pop at idle like it has a miss, its like a exhaust cough ever once in awhile. what can this mean?

Wht did they say about valve?

Pop at idle or when you mash the gas down.
Any engine miss.
Plugs and wires and cap and rotor good.

Wht did they say about valve?

Pop at idle or when you mash the gas down.
Any engine miss.
Plugs and wires and cap and rotor good.

It was only at idle only, when I heard it. I had a vacuum line off on the back of the intake manifold (CFI) I think i fix it but didnt run that long no air filter (cleaning my K&N) i'll test it tomorrow when the filers is dry and oiled.
I just went ahead and changed my plugs again. The Smog place closed at 5 I got there at 5:15 atlesst I got a two day moving permit from DMV wish me luck tomorrow

It was only at idle only, when I heard it. I had a vacuum line off on the back of the intake manifold (CFI) I think i fix it but didnt run that long no air filter (cleaning my K&N) i'll test it tomorrow when the filers is dry and oiled.
I just went ahead and changed my plugs again. The Smog place closed at 5 I got there at 5:15 atlesst I got a two day moving permit from DMV wish me luck tomorrow

YOU STILL HAVE NOT TOLD US.
:naughty::naughty::naughty:
WHAT DID THE MACHINE SHOP SAY THE REASON THE VALVE BURNT OR DID NOT HOLD?

Did the get the valve height set right this time?
I would do a full compression test on it to make sure the valves are sealing/holding now.
Remmeber If you drive it with a valve leaking or to tight it will burn valves again
Also if any engine miss or slober check the dist shat side play and get the base time set with the bypass wire disconnected.
If you drive it with a valve leaking or to tight it will burn valves again.

I have not heard back from the guy yet about what happen to the heads,

I didnt pass smog :(
I had to much HC at idle Max is 120 i got 187 The first test before i redid my heads was HC max 120 i got 140. I went up hows that. At 2500rmp im super clean HC max is 180 i got 37.

Ok so i did a compression test
Dry Wet
6# 130 5#130 6#135 5#140
4#130 3#120 4#130 3#125
2#130 1#140 2#140 1#145

I have a list of things im thinking about getting
Intake air temperature
idle air control valve
EGR
Throttle positon sensor
PCV
ECM i did replace that last year
And i heard i should replace the vapor canister should I.
I'll let you know when i talk to the guy about my head work.

I have not heard back from the guy yet about what happen to the heads,

I didnt pass smog :(
I had to much HC at idle Max is 120 i got 187 The first test before i redid my heads was HC max 120 i got 140. I went up hows that. At 2500rmp im super clean HC max is 180 i got 37.

Ok so i did a compression test
Dry Wet
6# 130 5#130 6#135 5#140
4#130 3#120 4#130 3#125
2#130 1#140 2#140 1#145

I have a list of things im thinking about getting
Intake air temperature
idle air control valve
EGR
Throttle positon sensor
PCV
ECM i did replace that last year
And i heard i should replace the vapor canister should I.
I'll let you know when i talk to the guy about my head work.

Before throwing parts at it do some proper testing first.

If not you may work your self to death and put a hurt on your pocket book and and still not have it fixed.
I would get a good scanner read out of all sensnor readings.

Have you set base time with the bypass wire disconnected?
Have you confirmed egr valve is working good?

the HC being high is unburned fuel...check that excess fuel is not leaking into the engine.. this can be the vapor cannister/fuel vapor control system..make sure the cannister is not smelling strongly of fuel..check the fuel delivery system for leaks / use a pressure guage see if it will hold fuel pressure on engine off..

bad plugs wires ignition can cause hc high , in your case I would guess its the fuel because at the higher rpm HC is not an issue , at idle the engine is being flooded..

Have you set base time with the bypass wire disconnected?
Have you confirmed egr valve is working good?[/quote]

The bypass wire was disconnected to have the timeing at 0
How do i test the EGR there is no vacuum line just wires. I did that it off and cleaned it, there was no carbon i did push the rod in and it moved freely.

Added: The Vaper can smelled like fuel I sprayed carb clean in the vapor can and then hooked a air line at low volume its not smelling like fuel any more.
I tested the fuel pressure not run, turn the keys like 5 to 6 times the fuel pump when on, the top fuel pressure i got is only 49psi in my book it said it should be 55 to 61 psi. The vaper can is not hooked up at this time Let the blazer set for like 20 min with the keys off the pressure droped to 45psi I did replace the fuel pressure regulator did i need to adjust the fuel pressure it did come with a bit to adjust it?

The next step im going to do after i get some input is to check the fuel injector assembly for leaks and to see if the injectors spray any ideas how to test if it sprays or drips, i did replace the fuel NUT the feed lines.

Have you set base time with the bypass wire disconnected?
Have you confirmed egr valve is working good?

The bypass wire was disconnected to have the timeing at 0
How do i test the EGR there is no vacuum line just wires. I did that it off and cleaned it, there was no carbon i did push the rod in and it moved freely.[/quote]

at idle the egr is off ! BUT WHAT IF THE EGR IS LEAKING A LITTLE ???


THIS WOULD put exhaust gases into the engine intake. this would cause a high CO reading.

besides what I already mentioned , the MAP can also cause a overly rich condition .. at idle the MAP should be 1.2 volts approx. with normal idle..

what is the engine vacuum @ idle , reading ? should be 17-21 inches.

my guess is leaking regulator or injectors with the age of this >>>>>>>>>>>>.

Have you set base time with the bypass wire disconnected?
Have you confirmed egr valve is working good?

The bypass wire was disconnected to have the timeing at 0
How do i test the EGR there is no vacuum line just wires. I did that it off and cleaned it, there was no carbon i did push the rod in and it moved freely.

Added: The Vaper can smelled like fuel I sprayed carb clean in the vapor can and then hooked a air line at low volume its not smelling like fuel any more.
I tested the fuel pressure not run, turn the keys like 5 to 6 times the fuel pump when on, the top fuel pressure i got is only 49psi in my book it said it should be 55 to 61 psi. The vaper can is not hooked up at this time Let the blazer set for like 20 min with the keys off the pressure droped to 45psi I did replace the fuel pressure regulator did i need to adjust the fuel pressure it did come with a bit to adjust it?

The next step im going to do after i get some input is to check the fuel injector assembly for leaks and to see if the injectors spray any ideas how to test if it sprays or drips, i did replace the fuel NUT the feed lines.[/QUOTE]

EGR valve needs to be tested with a engine capable scanner.
Egr valve only works/opens at upper RPM's over idle.

Fuel pressure is to low.
Spes 55/61.

Check direct fuel pressure at in line on fuel filter.
you should have 85-95 full pump pressure.

If good strong full pressure then block return line and see if pressure comes up to full pressure.

If not you have a pressure leak on lines or pressure regulator / nut kit/ fuel pressure injector assembley.


Low pressure or internal engine fuel leakage can cuse rich exhaust.

Let us know what you find.

EGR valve needs to be tested with a engine capable scanner.
Egr valve only works/opens at upper RPM's over idle.


Check direct fuel pressure at in line on fuel filter.
you should have 85-95 full pump pressure.

If good strong full pressure then block return line and see if pressure comes up to full pressure.

If not you have a pressure leak on lines or pressure regulator / nut kit/ fuel pressure injector assembley.


Low pressure or internal engine fuel leakage can cuse rich exhaust.

Let us know what you find.

I cant find a way to test the fuel pressure direct with out cutting the metal fuel lines

Ok so on my smog paper work it said EGR failed functional test. I jump wire under the dash got code 32 that the ERG shorted code. Retested it after have the battery unpluged over night checked it and no code, let it run and warm up and checked it again no codes?

I took off the upper intake to see the injetors nut pressure regulator. what i fonud was one of the ears is broke on one of my injetor where it clips in to the lower intake it holds and is there supposed to be rubber O-rings on the ends of the injetors that go in to the lower intake
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This looks like what going on, On the return line (the NUT) theres air bubbles going out, the main fuel line looks like solid fuel no bubbles. Is this normal.

I cant find a way to test the fuel pressure direct with out cutting the metal fuel lines

Ok so on my smog paper work it said EGR failed functional test. I jump wire under the dash got code 32 that the ERG shorted code. Retested it after have the battery unpluged over night checked it and no code, let it run and warm up and checked it again no codes?

I took off the upper intake to see the injetors nut pressure regulator. what i fonud was one of the ears is broke on one of my injetor where it clips in to the lower intake it holds and is there supposed to be rubber O-rings on the ends of the injetors that go in to the lower intake
http://co111w.col111.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=e854a086-63d0-11e0-8e6d-00237de4a26a&Aux=4|0|8CDC5F4D254C190||0|0|0|0||&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att
This looks like what going on, On the return line (the NUT) theres air bubbles going out, the main fuel line looks like solid fuel no bubbles. Is this normal.

If code 32 you have a egr valve problem.
You need the full pressure readings to see if fuel pump is good..

Best way to check fuel pressure direct pressure is to remove the fuel line going into fuel filter and hook a fuel pressure gauge to the end of the line.

Or blocking off plugging return line will give you a good idea on direct pressure if no leaks in between.

If you have upper intake off hook all lines and fittings and stuff back up and prime up fuel pressure and look for leaks around fuel pressure regulator and nut kit lines.

fuel pressure direct before the gas filter im getting only 55 psi looking like i need a new fuel pump. Can this make me have high HC??

I had a bad hose clamp. now i have 70psi at the top of pressure but its drop psi its that normal after about 30 min its at 30psi

fuel pressure direct before the gas filter im getting only 55 psi looking like i need a new fuel pump. Can this make me have high HC?


I had a bad hose clamp. now i have 70psi at the top of pressure but its drop psi its that normal after about 30 min its at 30psi

As said low fuel pressure can make engine run rich.

Where was the bad clamp?
it is normal for pressure to leak down afyer 30 minutes.
Engine running is the main pressure you need up to specs.
Direct pressure is a liitle low.
If you have 70 lbs direct pressure go back and check pressure on engine.
But that does not get you out of the woods.
Check cold start and engine running and reheck after pump run for 30-45 minutes.
Post back all pressure readings.

The bad clamp was on my pessure tester.
The pressure at the NUT is 50psi
Why is ther air bubbles on the reture line.

The bad clamp was on my pessure tester.
The pressure at the NUT is 50psi
Why is ther air bubbles on the reture line.

because it's sucking air in because of fuel pump being bad.

I dont see the air or any bubbles in the main fuel line. I can hear bubbles in the pressure regulator. sounds like a swooshing.

The bad clamp was on my pessure tester.
The pressure at the NUT is 50psi
Why is ther air bubbles on the reture line.
How are you finding bubbles in return line?
Having a line/filter lose or off can give you air in lines
Where there is bubbles thre is air.
We need all of the fuel pressure readings.
Part does not help without the rest of them.
Need engine cranking and engine running pressures and running hot pressure.
Also plug or block return line and post pressure reading with return line blocked.

I dont see the air or any bubbles in the main fuel line. I can hear bubbles in the pressure regulator. sounds like a swooshing.

Fuel runs threw it all time fuel pump is runnings.

I can see the air thoght the NUT lines there a frost/clear tube

Before Fuel filter direct pressure is 70psi
At the NUT 50psi BUT when I pluged the NUT main line that gose into the injetor assembley (spider) with my finger I got 70psi

I can see the air thoght the NUT lines there a frost/clear tube

Before Fuel filter direct pressure is 70psi
At the NUT 50psi BUT when I pluged the NUT main line that gose into the injetor assembley (spider) with my finger I got 70psi

If you can see air you pump is suching air.
Block or plug return line and if fuel pressure comes up to full pump pressure then your pressure regulator is not holding righ fuel pressure.

Also if you are getting air and only 70 lbs full pressure your pump is weak or bad.

Just strated to drop the tank. ordering from gmpartsdirect a new fuel pump..

Wow taking the gas tank out is not easy. Ok I orded a new AC Delco Fuel pump. dont know when its going to get here yet. But after i get it installed and test it. i'll post my updates.

Should I put this back in PULSE DAMPENER FP30 (Pic) or just go straight tube with clamps that comes with the new pump.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208735_1828497885264_1624854372_1851081_1760063_s. jpg
Thanks Guys for everthing so far.. =)