Exhaust value no sealing 4.3 Vortex <HELP>

Wow taking the gas tank out is not easy. Ok I orded a new AC Delco Fuel pump. dont know when its going to get here yet. But after i get it installed and test it. i'll post my updates.

Should I put this back in PULSE DAMPENER FP30 (Pic) or just go straight tube with clamps that comes with the new pump.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/208735_1828497885264_1624854372_1851081_1760063_s. jpg
Thanks Guys for everthing so far.. =)

You are welcome.
The pulse damper was only designed as a cushion for fuel pressure.
It was only used on OEM fuel pump assembly with a tag no. SFB or SEP.
My take ion it is.
They can cause more trouble than the are worth.
I pitch them in the trash can.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

The new fuel pump made it better but i still have air bubbles on the return line. my new pressure to the NUT is 54 psi it was 49psi

Im going to go to the junk yard this weekend and grab a injetor spider..
Dose the pressure regulator suck air to make the fuel pressure regular?

Im going to order a new EGR to. If this dosent fix it, im done.

The new fuel pump made it better but i still have air bubbles on the return line. my new pressure to the NUT is 54 psi it was 49psi

Im going to go to the junk yard this weekend and grab a injetor spider..
Dose the pressure regulator suck air to make the fuel pressure regular?

Im going to order a new EGR to. If this dosent fix it, im done.

The salvge yard is not the best place to find a good one.
Unless it was just replace before junked out most of them are high mileage units along them years.
Some people find new Delphi injector units on E bay and Amazon com. atb a good price.

The fuel pressure regulator does not suck air to regulate pressure.
Only holds pressure back at a certain pressure.
But if leaking it may drain out fuel into engine and let some air in line sitting over night.
Or nut kit and lines and seals may leak out fuel sitting or running.

Does the air clear up after it runs a while?

The fuel pressure regulator does not suck air to regulate pressure.
Only holds pressure back at a certain pressure.
But if leaking it may drain out fuel into engine and let some air in line sitting over night.
Or nut kit and lines and seals may leak out fuel sitting or running.

Does the air clear up after it runs a while?

I dont have any fuel leaking you can hear the air bubbles in the injector body like its sucking air. So im thinking it has a crack. That why im going to get one out of the junk yard its only 24.99.

What would happen if I put in a flat gasket under the EGR to block the exhaust gases. whould that work?

I dont have any fuel leaking you can hear the air bubbles in the injector body like its sucking air. So im thinking it has a crack. That why im going to get one out of the junk yard its only 24.99.

What would happen if I put in a flat gasket under the EGR to block the exhaust gases. whould that work?

Are you sure you are not just hearing fuel flowing threw it?
The only to hear air bubbles is to hook a clear plastic ine up top return and eyeball it.

Block egr valve Only for a test.
Full time block off will cause engine running problems and pining and burnt pistons and cut gas mileage 1/3 to 1/2.

Are you sure you are not just hearing fuel flowing threw it?
The only to hear air bubbles is to hook a clear plastic ine up top return and eyeball it.


You can see the air bubbles its a frost color tube. When I stop the fuel pump you can see bubbles coming back up on the return line, NOT on the fuel main line it looks like just fuel.

You can see the air bubbles its a frost color tube. When I stop the fuel pump you can see bubbles coming back up on the return line, NOT on the fuel main line it looks like just fuel.

If they are coming back up from the tank with fuel pump off you may have a leak some place or leak down in fuel pump itself.
A leak down in the pressure/fuel /injector /line/pump could cause the line to suck on the return line to tank and draw air into the return line.

The return line to tank goes into the top of it over top of gas level.

When fuel pump is turn on it should pump fuel threw return to tank and pump all air out.

If that is the only problem and running pump pressure is up to specs I would just drive it like that.

Yeah. I got it smoged and it Passed. I replaced the Spider with a used one from the junk yard with a used EGR and Map.

After I drove it for about 55 miles after smoged my check engine light come on Code 42 & 43. Im looking up have to fix it now. Any ideas.

Thanks Guys im so happy that it got Smoged I couldn't have done it without you guys THANKS again.. Brad, CA

The update: The wire was broken off from the knock sensor on the driver side head. Going to drive it to my girls house about 10 miles to see if the light come on..

Yeah. I got it smoged and it Passed. I replaced the Spider with a used one from the junk yard with a used EGR and Map.

After I drove it for about 55 miles after smoged my check engine light come on Code 42 & 43. Im looking up have to fix it now. Any ideas.

Thanks Guys im so happy that it got Smoged I couldn't have done it without you guys THANKS again.. Brad, CA

The update: The wire was broken off from the knock sensor on the driver side head. Going to drive it to my girls house about 10 miles to see if the light come on..
You are welcome.
Glad you are getting it straighten up.

Code 42-43 has about 10 different repair flow charts.:eek7:
Depending on what all you have in ign and spark control system and what transmission.

But the wire broke off is the place to start first thing.
Fix that and clear codes and drive and recheck for codes.

Have you got the air bubble problem fixed?
Got good proper fuel pressure with no fast leak down?

You are welcome.
Glad you are getting it straighten up.

Code 42-43 has about 10 different repair flow charts.:eek7:
Depending on what all you have in ign and spark control system and what transmission.

But the wire broke off is the place to start first thing.
Fix that and clear codes and drive and recheck for codes.

Have you got the air bubble problem fixed?
Got good proper fuel pressure with no fast leak down?

After I got on the freeway the check engin light come on. Didnt notice any diffrents no sputter/ no power loss. But when I got to my girls house, I checked the codes come up as only 43

After I got on the freeway the check engin light come on. Didnt notice any diffrents no sputter/ no power loss. But when I got to my girls house, I checked the codes come up as only 43

I would drive it some more to be sure no other codes are coming back.
If no other problems or codes.
Getb a repair flow chart for code 32 and check it out and go all of the way threw repair flow chart.
Code 43 is a EGR valve system problem.

Have you got vacuumn or electric EGR valve?
Did you get the air in lines problem fixed or what fixed that end?

You are welcome.
Glad you are getting it straighten up.

Code 42-43 has about 10 different repair flow charts.:eek7:
Depending on what all you have in ign and spark control system and what transmission.

But the wire broke off is the place to start first thing.
Fix that and clear codes and drive and recheck for codes.

Have you got the air bubble problem fixed?
Got good proper fuel pressure with no fast leak down?

I would drive it some more to be sure no other codes are coming back.
If no other problems or codes.
Getb a repair flow chart for code 32 and check it out and go all of the way threw repair flow chart.
Code 43 is a EGR valve system problem.

Have you got vacuumn or electric EGR valve?
Did you get the air in lines problem fixed or what fixed that end?

After I fixed the wire I unhook the battery 5 minites, Check for codes nothing, after driving light come on, checked the code got 43. The EGR is electric I did replace it with one out of the Junk yard, before the last smog test the shop said (replace the EGR) Flow chart is that in my chilton manual, Not near my manuals.
You want me to check the flow chart for 32 not 43?
The bubbles in the NUT will after I replaced the spider I had bubbles but you said it might just be fine to run it that way. Im thinking the bubbles just need to work its way thought the system.
Tryying to get back to my house to start troubleshooting this code...:jerking:

After I fixed the wire I unhook the battery 5 minites, Check for codes nothing, after driving light come on, checked the code got 43. The EGR is electric I did replace it with one out of the Junk yard, before the last smog test the shop said (replace the EGR) Flow chart is that in my chilton manual, Not near my manuals.
You want me to check the flow chart for 32 not 43?
The bubbles in the NUT will after I replaced the spider I had bubbles but you said it might just be fine to run it that way. Im thinking the bubbles just need to work its way thought the system.
Tryying to get back to my house to start troubleshooting this code...:jerking:

Chilton hand books no no.
You need factory repair manuals or All data online DIY for the good repair flow charts on codes.
Also a good engine capable scanner will have EGR valve test built into it.

If you have both codes test for both.

Will i guess I didnt plug the knock sensor back in right it come off.Took it on a test drive no light.

Think im done =)

Back again, just tryed to get a smog FAIL I had High Hc max is 98 I had 110 at 15 mph and max is 70 I had 92 at 25mph my CO was .47 max is .49 at 15 mph and my CO was .40 max is .63
let me know if you guys need more info
Could this be a bad cpi injector spider?
The blazer runs like a top.

The other day I pulled my driver side valve cover and saw some wear on my rocker arm it was looking like the valve was low the the rocker arm was riding on the top of the spring cap. If you look at my eraly post I had the heads redone two times for bad valve sealing. (not sure if it was intake or exhaust valve)

Back again, just tryed to get a smog FAIL I had High Hc max is 98 I had 110 at 15 mph and max is 70 I had 92 at 25mph my CO was .47 max is .49 at 15 mph and my CO was .40 max is .63
let me know if you guys need more info
Could this be a bad cpi injector spider?
The blazer runs like a top.

The other day I pulled my driver side valve cover and saw some wear on my rocker arm it was looking like the valve was low the the rocker arm was riding on the top of the spring cap. If you look at my eraly post I had the heads redone two times for bad valve sealing. (not sure if it was intake or exhaust valve)

hi CO and HC would be a bad EGR. opening too much.

with higher exhaust gases being injected into the combustion chamber you get this failure.

surprised on a 1998 they use the pipe sniffer. not here in massachustts. OBDII they just hook up the computer. any codes you fail.

if it runs good valves should be good.

Thanks j cAT
I have replace the EGR with a junk yard one it looked new like. The last one that was in the blazer looked used hard (OEM Gm)tryed to clean it butt is still looked rough.
Should I break down and buy a new one (EGR)

There was one more thing my MAP sensor fits in there kind of losse. What I mean is the rubber seal seams to be soft slides right in with not much drag. Should I go get a new Map?

Thanks j cAT
I have replace the EGR with a junk yard one it looked new like. The last one that was in the blazer looked used hard (OEM Gm)tryed to clean it butt is still looked rough.
Should I break down and buy a new one (EGR)

There was one more thing my MAP sensor fits in there kind of losse. What I mean is the rubber seal seams to be soft slides right in with not much drag. Should I go get a new Map?

THE egr FAILS MOST TIMES BY OPENING TOO MUCH. the spring fails over time . also you must use the correct EGr. these are calibrated to the specific engine/year. sure sometimes they stick due to carbon. that was back when carbs were around. in todays engines it should not be carboned up.

the MAP sure does have a gasket. that gasket if leaking will cause the map voltage to be higher. the map voltage at idle should be 1.2 volts approx. as the throttle is opened the vacuum drops and the voltage rises. also a big vac leak and high idle rpm would usually be the symptoms. more air in to the engine the fuel mixture then requires more fuel to keep the 14-1 ratio air/fuel.

with high CO I doubt this is the problem..too much air will not cause high CO. also the engine would run poorly.

the EGR messed up by opening to much you would not notice this unless it sticks open always.

if it failed EMISSIONS what are the DTC codes ?

if it failed EMISSIONS what are the DTC codes ?

I have OBD1. Dont i need a check light on first, I do have a gm jumper tester Ill check my Map volts tomorrow,
There is a gasket on my EGR and the one I got from the Junk yard what out of the same make and model, I didnt check if it was a Z or W vin, I have a W vin, what the difference between W and Z vin's
Thanks j cAT

I have OBD1. Dont i need a check light on first, I do have a gm jumper tester Ill check my Map volts tomorrow,
There is a gasket on my EGR and the one I got from the Junk yard what out of the same make and model, I didnt check if it was a Z or W vin, I have a W vin, what the difference between W and Z vin's
Thanks j cAT

fuel injection or throttle body injection are the differences. sensors and components like the EGR are not good items to go picking at the scrap yard.

OBD I should have code if the vehicle failed emission test. If no codes are found then the EGR would be highly suspect.

make sure the passageways for the EGR are not blocked.

I'll pull of the EGR later today to do a inspection on the EGR and port, I was trying to find out how to test the EGR, but no luck,
What do you think about the knock sensor's there one on each side of the heads total of two different screw threads size.
I have a new pick up that i got from rockauto.com should I go ahead and install it?

I'll pull of the EGR later today to do a inspection on the EGR and port, I was trying to find out how to test the EGR, but no luck,
What do you think about the knock sensor's there one on each side of the heads total of two different screw threads size.
I have a new pick up that i got from rockauto.com should I go ahead and install it?

what do you mean that the threads are not the same on the knock sensor.

both should be the same . make sure the connectors are good.

what do you mean that the threads are not the same on the knock sensor.
Both should be the same . make sure the connectors are good.

ok i just look again there one in the middle of the driver side head and the other one is on the passenger side back of the the head near the fire wall, Im not sure if its a temp sensor (looks like one) on the passenger side middle..

Checked my EGR it was not cloged looked like it was working fine little dusty looking normal.

Update the Vapor Canister hose going to my intake neck above the EGR front part of motor. The line was tucked behind my air cleaner box. I take it off and tucked it back there when i was taking my valve cover off :screwy:
Think this is what made me have Higher then average Hydrocarbon

Just check my code i got a Code 42 im heading to work again back on it after. what I did before the code what removed & reinstalled the egr repluged the can hose to the platinum and the i checked the timing and yes i timed it with the brown wire disconnected and i check for leaks with a can of carb clean srayed it on all the vacuum lines and around the dis and egr no leaks, off to work, I disconnect the ecm1 fuse to have the computer to be reset when i get back

the 42 code is the EST circuit. this can be a pita.

make sure all distributor connectors/ wiring is good and correct. make sure the timing is correct.

plug wires must be routed properly/secured like when the vehicle was built. interference can create this.

whatever though the timing system is not correct and this could also be the PCM/computer wires/connectors.

vapor cannister hose is no big deal unless it is full of fuel. it is possible with a defective cannister control valve to suck fuel out of the fuel tank by way of the purge vapor hose.

vapor cannister hose is no big deal unless it is full of fuel. it is possible with a defective cannister control valve to suck fuel out of the fuel tank by way of the purge vapor hose.

Just got home its 2am no work for me tonight, The vapor cannister when i got the truck was smalling like fuel could have been full at one time,
Going to recheck check all the electronics connections tomorrow

So the purge vapor hose that was not connected to the throttle body is not why I had high HC

Just got home its 2am no work for me tonight, The vapor cannister when i got the truck was smalling like fuel could have been full at one time,
Going to recheck check all the electronics connections tomorrow

So the purge vapor hose that was not connected to the throttle body is not why I had high HC

the throttle body must be plugged. that will be vac leak. that will mess up the fuel mixture. but not cause a high CO level.

Been trying to track down my DTC 42 code, I pulled my Distributor replace the pick up coil and ICM and cleaned the funk off new cap connector grease. Checked my ECM Connection unpluged it and repluged it. Pulled my ECM fuse and no luck still got the 42 code, Like j cAT sad PITA,
In tell I saw the ECM B 15amp fuse and ECM 1 10amp fuse there was one wire to each fuse when I first saw this I thought it was normal in tell, I track the wires uder the carpet (they had fuse on them) to the center console the last owner had a car phone. The ECM B fuse connector was spaced out that holds the power side, push them together so that it can hold the fuse like it should, Rescanned and pulled just 12 code :rofl:

Been trying to track down my DTC 42 code, I pulled my Distributor replace the pick up coil and ICM and cleaned the funk off new cap connector grease. Checked my ECM Connection unpluged it and repluged it. Pulled my ECM fuse and no luck still got the 42 code, Like j cAT sad PITA,
In tell I saw the ECM B 15amp fuse and ECM 1 10amp fuse there was one wire to each fuse when I first saw this I thought it was normal in tell, I track the wires uder the carpet (they had fuse on them) to the center console the last owner had a car phone. The ECM B fuse connector was spaced out that holds the power side, push them together so that it can hold the fuse like it should, Rescanned and pulled just 12 code :rofl:

so wiring issues . that figures.

the spark plug wires have silcone dielectric grease on the boot ends.

this product works to protect the conductor from breaking down due to water/mositure entering the connection .

with this product I have found the plug wires to last many years with good resistance readings.

loose fitting fuses are common problems . many flex the fuses too much when removing which cuases the same effect that you found.

Exhaust gases coming out the tail pipe are super hot could that be a bad Catalytic converter?
Im going to pull my O2 to see if I have a clogged catalytic converter.
Tomorrow Im getting a temp gun to check temps all over.

Pulled the o2, The blazer sounded like a beast. Going to say my Cat is ok, but when i was under there I noticed the cats color was like a gun metal grey, it was not they way last week it was like light tan like the rest of the exhaust but newer looking

Pulled the o2, The blazer sounded like a beast. Going to say my Cat is ok, but when i was under there I noticed the cats color was like a gun metal grey, it was not they way last week it was like light tan like the rest of the exhaust but newer looking

lets say your valve[s] are messed up. you now have unburned fuel getting into the exhaust. then the job of the cat is to burn it off. if too much/too long then the cat gets very hot and melts the internal baffle/honey comp material which then causes restriction of exhaust gases.

engine running to rich also will do it.

Im going to do a commpress test in 3 day, Going racing this weekend it my dads Memorial Enduro race (Miss you pops)

I'll let you know how the test goes j cAT,
What is a good commpress range for a 4.3 V6 vortec CPI Vin W

Im going to do a commpress test in 3 day, Going racing this weekend it my dads Memorial Enduro race (Miss you pops)

I'll let you know how the test goes j cAT,
What is a good commpress range for a 4.3 V6 vortec CPI Vin W

compression don't vary much between engines . what you look for is compare all readings with the cylinders. if you find a low one then that would be the problem.

the spark plugs tell the story if you do have a dead cylinder.

Compression test Done, The motor was cold 150 degrees on the exhaust, cylinders 1=150 2=150 3=125 4=145 5=145 6=145 How dose all the cylinders look but 3 are they good?
The last time I was in the valve cover the exhaust rocker arm was rubbing on the spring cap on #3 thats going to be my problem. I had my heads done once and they failed do to a leaking valve on 3 had them reset the valves so they would seat. Look like my head guys suck butt hole.
Is it possible to try to fix the valve on the truck by pulling the rocker arms off cylinder 3 running compressed air in the cylinder and pulling my valve sping off and resetting my valve keeper? Of do I just pull the head and get a new valve or a head job.

Compression test Done, The motor was cold 150 degrees on the exhaust, cylinders 1=150 2=150 3=125 4=145 5=145 6=145 How dose all the cylinders look but 3 are they good?
The last time I was in the valve cover the exhaust rocker arm was rubbing on the spring cap on #3 thats going to be my problem. I had my heads done once and they failed do to a leaking valve on 3 had them reset the valves so they would seat. Look like my head guys suck butt hole.
Is it possible to try to fix the valve on the truck by pulling the rocker arms off cylinder 3 running compressed air in the cylinder and pulling my valve sping off and resetting my valve keeper? Of do I just pull the head and get a new valve or a head job.

if the valve spring is bad on 3 then use air pressure to hold the valves in place so you can replace the spring or whatever is messed up.

125 is not all that bad but still a little low. could be the valve is bad.

if the valve spring is bad on 3 then use air pressure to hold the valves in place so you can replace the spring or whatever is messed up.

125 is not all that bad but still a little low. could be the valve is bad.

Is there a way to test the valve to see if its bad?
Or could i be just a weak spring.

Is there a way to test the valve to see if its bad?
Or could i be just a weak spring.

swap spring to next cylinder

swap spring to next cylinder

was working on it all morning did a temp reading on the exhaust manifold I got 380 on all but the #6 was 355 degrees (could be because its in the back) is that bad?

And when I turn the blazer off I get a rushing air sound out of the intake neck (cylinder depressurization) could this be because one of the injector clips are broke and the injector poped out of the hole Pic do I need to replace the spider I have the last one I take out it had one broken clip too, or can I just pull off one of the good clips off the old one?

Getting a new EMC. next week a rem ACdelco Because I was getting a Code 42. The code only show up when I drive about 40 miles. The check engine light never comes on, but when I check codes I get the Normal 12 and 42.(FM) only after 40 or so miles. I Tracked down all the wires and they all looked fine, got a new ICM and pick up coil.
Is there any trick to putting the new ECM anf prom/chip, dont want the F the new one up.